I just could not resist buying Watson, the new lingerie pattern designed by Amy of Cloth Habit. Yes, I have a few lingerie patterns now, but a few points of difference with this one allowed me to talk myself into buying a new one. Quite easily, as a matter of fact! I’ve always admired Amy’s beautiful creations and so adding her new pattern to my collection was always going to happen 🙂
I used a sand-coloured cotton jersey, (the Morrison remnant sale), lining the bra cups and cradle with soft, sand-coloured rayon stretch (Fabulous Fabrics), pretty scalloped-edge lingerie elastic (Fabulous Fabrics) and plush elastic for the bra straps (Homecraft Textiles).
The pattern is for a simple, soft cup bra, in either longline or regular length, with no provision for underwires, and a bikini brief. Obviously I had to make both! and made my usual two pairs of matching knickers to go with my bra.
So, I have several thoughts about the Watson pattern…
Firstly and most importantly, I really love my new bra! I very much like the clean and modern line, the simplicity of the cut. It looks really cute on and for my size the fitting and drafting is spot on. I chose to make the longer line option, and am very pleased with it. Usually I go for a padded, underwire bra, but it’s nice to have different options in the undies drawer.
I chose to line both my bra band and cups for two reasons; firstly because I prefer the cups to be a slightly thick and padded anyway; and secondly; because the way the bra is constructed inevitably means all the seam allowances on the inside are exposed. That’s unavoidable in having a pieced cup in a single layer of fabric. However I usually like for my insides to be just as pretty as the outsides, and so I cut cup linings and worked out a way to construct it so that all the seam allowances are tucked neatly out of sight between the outer and lining layers.
1. Do not baste the lining to cradle as the first step; instead sew the side seam so that the back band is sandwiched between the cradle and its lining.
2. Sew all pairs of outer and upper cup pieces together, also for cup linings. Baste the cups to their corresponding lining cups all around, wrong sides together.
3. Turn the cradle inside out, so you can sew the cups to the cradle, sandwiching the cups, right sides together, between the cradle and its lining piece. This means that all seam allowances will be inside the cradle.
4. Sew the lingerie elastic to the top and lower edges as normal.
5. hey presto! all the seam allowances are nicely tucked away!
The white scalloped lingerie elastic from Fabulous Fabrics is very pretty and makes a really lovely edging; however, I thought it a little flimsy to use along the lower edge of the bra, which is a more “demanding” edge and requires a slightly thicker, heavier duty elastic. So I used my regular Birch’s lingerie elastic just for the lower edge of the bra.
A small complaint about the pattern: I had to do a bit of detective work to determine the lengths of elastic required because unfortunately they do not seem to be included in the pattern. I searched and searched and could find absolutely no clue in the instructions as to how long I was to cut my elastic pieces! Nor the straps! Strange. So I dug out my KwikSew 3300 bra pattern to measure the strap piece, and also checked out the tables in it for a guide as to how long I should cut the lingerie elastic for the Watson bra edges. Luckily, the KwikSew pattern has terrifically helpful tables outlining exactly how long you should cut your elastic, for each size. Thank goodness for that!
Same story for the undies; I had to get out my McCalls 2772 bikini pattern and measured the waist and leg elastic guide pieces and used these same lengths for these knickers too.
I’ve now jotted down on my Watson instructions all these elastic lengths I need so I don’t have to go looking for them again. Because I’m sure there will be more Watsons in my life. 🙂
Ok I only have one more complaint, and that is that metric measurements are missing from the instructions. Yes, I can convert them myself, and I have, for future reference, and noted them down directly onto my copy. But it would have been helpful to have them included in the pattern. Along with those elastic lengths.
The bikini brief undies are plain and simple little things, definitely my style. I only realised upon viewing the pattern pieces that there is a horizontal joining seam right across the front of the crotch, with open seam allowances on the inside. I wanted mine without a seam, so I spliced my front and crotch pattern pieces together and cut the front as one piece, and then cut one separate crotch lining piece from white cotton jersey. This is sandwiched between the back and front pieces when joining together, so that all seams allowances are nicely tucked away inside. This is the same method I learnt from my regular McCalls 2772 bikini pattern, and so I know it gives a nice comfortable result. And no unsightly seam!
I’m very happy with the new set! It is so comfortable, also the colour alone means I’m guaranteed to wear these a tonne. I was actually pretty desperate for this set… yes, sounds needlessly dramatic, but I have tonnes of white dresses and shirts. Which I favour. Meaning my white/colourless lingerie gets more wear and tear than the colourful stuff and as the lingerie drawer gets weeded out it’s looking a bit too colourful in there lately. Clearly I have been extremely bad at planning and keeping up with lingerie requirements.
But now, I’m on it! Stay tuned for another exciting episode of Watson, coming soon to this station. Featuring some luvverly lace, mmmmm 🙂
An excellent review 😉 and I like the info on how to construct the lining for the bra and how to omit the front seam in the undies. I am surprised the elastic lengths weren't included as that is kind of important! Beautiful sewing as always.
Seriously starting to consider sewing my own undies! X
Thank you for this Carolyn, I'm planning to make a whole drawerful of underwear at Christmas and the Watson set had moved to the top of the list because of the no underwires. I will find your review really helpful when the time comes.
Bit of an oversight not including the elastic measurements, but having read (and re-read) her bra sewalong many times, she may have just forgotten that us mere mortals need measurements. I remember she says that when she sews her elastic in she stretches by feel, depending on the quality of the elastic, so could end up using different lengths with different elastics. A guide to an average length would have been useful for you though!
I think a guide for length would be useful for everyone using the pattern, not just me.
Thank you, Carolyn! The Watson is on my wish list, but I just read lately that the bra isn’t lined and the seams are thus not enclosed, and I was a little disappointed by that. I’m so glad that you’ve included some info on this in your review so that I won’t have to figure out the construction all by myself when the time comes! I’m also delighted that you made your set from cotton and rayon jersey, because that’s exactly what I’d like to do as well, and it’s good to know that it works with the pattern!
For sewing undie crotch linings, I usually follow indigorchid’s instructions (here: http://www.indigorchid.com/2011/11/11/sewing-underwear-the-basics/), which fully enclose the seams with no loose lining piece. It’s the same principle as the “burrito” method for sewing shirt yokes.
That is an excellent method Jana! however for me personally, I do not like a seam at the front of the crotch so I will always default to the method I used here 🙂
I've been considering making a lingerie set lately. The Watson is one of those being considered and I would definitely line the bra. I don't like that the seams are exposed and feel that it would be more comfortable with a lining. Thanks for the review.
Lovely! I wear only non-underwire, seamless bfras and seamless undies because of my funky Scleroderma skin – perhaps I can modify Watson and make my own for a change! I would love to do that. Thanks for all the tips on construction, so helpful. Looking forward to more versions.
Oh, this is so very pretty! I love the simplicity of it. Do you think underwires could be added? Just wondering as a lady in her 50's, I feel like the underwires are helping compete with gravity. 🙂
thanks Sue! no, it is not an underwired bra and I don't think it was designed to accommodate them. I tend to prefer underwires myself too, but I am really enjoying the softness and comfort of this bra… it's a nice change and I'm converted!
They look essential. Always love coming here as I never know what I will see next! I have made a top out of lace – first time but it went well.Jo x
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I have seen this pattern and seriously considered getting it! I like its no wires, just hate them. I like the long version. The only reason I have not purchased it is… sighhhh…. Its a time thing LOL If only there were 48 hours in a day! LOL ….Your set is lovely as all of your items are!
This set looks great! Like you, my nude colored underthings get far more wear than the pretty colored ones… the situation is getting pretty desperate too! Thanks for the lining information, as I definitely prefer a little more thickness on the cups. Can't wait to make this pattern myself!
You're bad for my budgeting habits.
Actually, you just back up my reasoning nicely. I've been eyeing that pattern off since its release, and WANTING it, coz it looks so pretty, and potentially so comfortable. Thank you for detailing how you worked out the elastic. It's a very helpful tip.
Sadly my search for a good non-underwire bra pattern must continue. Love the look of this pattern! And I love the look of your bra and undies from it. However I know I'll just fall out of it in the middle, in a very unflattering way O_o
However I'm going to now go check out Fabulous Fabrics for that pretty lingerie elastic! Thanks for the heads-up.
Very pretty but practical set. Great review of the pattern too.
wow, super, sexy
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Enjoyed your review of the pattern and it is a very cute versatile set.
Beautiful set! I didn't include lengths for a reason–as the amount required really depends on the elastic, and it would have added about two extra pages to write up a chart for all those sizes.
Suggestion-wise–I reduce anywhere between 3% or 6% less than the seamline, depending on the weight or stretchiness of the elastic… for something like foldover elastic, I'd go up to 8%. Unless I use the same exact elastic over and over the lengths do change. I know that learning how to apply elastic by feel is a skill, but I believe it's a valuable skill to acquire in lingerie making. I stopped measuring elastic lengths after my first bra and undies so it's not something that took a long time to figure out. ;). But I'll definitely write some suggestions in my sew-along to aid the process!