Hello š
I’ve made a new top. Actually I made this a little while ago, and I’ve suddenly came to the glorious realisation that hey! the autumnal weather is here and it’s actually beautiful enough to wear it. I love this time of the year!
This is made using Vogue 1115 with the body lengthened by about 2.5cm, and used a piece of thin blue woven cotton denim-y stuff. I chose to use the fabric wrong side out, since I preferred the muted, slightly undefined, yellow-y tone of the blue of the wrong side. The right side is a stronger blue, which I didn’t think did wonders for my complexion.
I’ve written a pattern review below for anyone interested, but there really is one important thing to know about this pattern, it is rated Advanced/Plus Difficile, and yes, that is a well deserved rating. The undersleeve/side piece when joined together is pretty tricky to insert neatly; and sewing down the seam allowances of said sleeve gusset with a double row of topstitching? … seriously tricky.
Most of the topstitching I used a deeper blue thread which was painstakingly colour matched to the blue in the fabric weave. Haha, kidding; actually it is just leftover thread that I already had in my stash š the fact that it matched is fortuitous! I used a lighter shade of blue for the bar tacks.
Installing that invisible zip, another seriously tricky procedure.. since I prefer to insert the zip before sewing up the seam below it; and since the seam allowance has to be finished with a double row of top-stitching to stylistically match all the other seams on the garment; this is an area that needed a bit of nutting out. I’m pretty pleased with the nice even finish I got in the end š
Look at those blissfully deep, welted inner pockets (satisfied sigh) I made them a smidge deeper and bigger, and the edges are finished with HongKong seaming.
The graceful curve of those pieces in the back is so elegant and stylish. I just love the seaming lines here! I also like how the slit at the lower back stylistically matches the slit at the upper front neckline. imo, it’s the little details like this that set the designer patterns apart from the others.
Those wide bell sleeves… I wasn’t absolutely certain that I would adore these, but they’ve grown on me. They are certainly comfortable and feel nice to wear, no constrictions whatsoever! and I think they look quite designer-y and interesting. I worried that the size of them would make them annoying, that they would get in the way of my daily activities, but I’ve worn my new top all day and barely noticed the sleeves. No worries there!
Skirt; based on Vogue 1247, refashioned from another skirt, originally Vogue 8561, details here
Sandals; c/o Misano
Description:
hip length, pull-over top has wide funnel neckline with slit, front and back
armhole gusset seaming, bell sleeves, welt pockets, back inset, slit, side back zip and flat
fell seams.
Sizing:
sizes 6-12; I cut the size 10
it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished
sewing it?
the instructions easy to follow?
opinion the instructions are straightforward but this pattern is rated
Advanced/Plus Difficile for a reason!
did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I do so love a sewing challenge, and there are a few in this patternā¦ this is
not a top that can be whipped up in one day, no sirreee! I dug down deep into my reserves of
patience and only allowed myself to work on the tricky bits when I was feeling
fresh and not tired! For example:
stitching those double rows of topstitching to the undersleeve and side / front
and back seams was tricky, and also attaching
the neckline facing neatly to the top curved edges of the zip tape quite
tricky.
I really love the final product!
Used:
denim
alterations or any design changes you made:
lengthened the body pieces by 2.5cm at the hem, and cut the pockets to be 1.5cm
deeperā¦
16, I chose to reinforce underneath the single layer of fabric with a small
bias cut square of interfaced cloth before stitching the bar-tacks.
35; I prefer to insert the invisible zip before
sewing together the seam underneath, I think you can get a much neater finish
49; I think it is supposed to read āwith right sides togetherā but in any case
I didnāt stitch the welt together like this, just folded it wrong sides
together and continued with step 51 with the edges raw and unstitched, and then
in step 56, slipped them between the pocket and triangular ends, stitching them
in place in the pocket seam, a more elegant and less bulky way of finishing the
welt considering the raw edges are bound with HongKong seaming in step 57.
I didnāt do the following, but if I was
making this again I wouldā¦!
3 and step 20 have you slash the underarm/sleeve between stay-stitchingā¦ I
recommend instead that you leave the actual slashing until just before step 45, when you pin
and attach the undersleeve and side.
Thereās no need to make the cuts so early, and if your fabric is subject
to fraying then I think itās best to leave it until the last minute,
particularly since you are cutting so close to the stay-stitching and into the
armhole corner.
you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
recommend this pattern to the advanced seamster, and I think I will sew this one up again. And,
ahem, I can get the top on and off without having to even use that
difficult-to-insert zip as long as I donāt mind my hair getting a bit
messy. Which I donāt. So, maybe I have a tiny head but
looking at the pattern envelope I think the model probably could do the
same. The next time I might not
even bother with that zip.
designer take on comfortable and
chic. I was a bit worried about
those wide bell-sleeves before I started, that they would get in the way of daily activities, and/or look awkward and
stand out stiffly in a difficult-to-wear way but I neednāt have been; the sleeves feel great and look quite cool, and are very comfy in this loose floppy fabric.
I'm so utterly impressed with your skill in putting this together and finishing it so perfectly. I can only imagine would my attempt would look like close-up! Yours is beautiful, it really is.
And what's more, this is such a chic style that suits you down to the ground. You look fabulous!
Awesome! This pattern is on my to-make list, and it's so much fun to see it made up. your version is just lovely.
Really cool top and beautifully made! It suits you really well!
It looks so comfortable. I love big, loose tops :), and I do love the way you topstitched everything. Great job.
What a fabulous top! I pull this pattern out periodically as I love the design so much…you did a wonderful job of it. Lovely !
Wow, it looks great and I'm impressed with your sewing skills.
What an unusual top, I like the construction of it, all those unusual shapes, like that feature down the back. You have done a great job and the topstitching really finishes it off. Especially like the darker colour thread.
Very, as you say, designer-y. It looks deceptively simple, but if you say it's difficult (as does the pattern maker), I believe you! Like your skirt a lot better than the capris shown in the pattern.
The top stitching is an important feature. It really makes the unusual design lines *pop*!
The finishing on your top is so pleasing. What beautiful work and lovely details in the pattern.
This is a beautiful piece! It suits you very much and you look very pretty in it too. I didn't know the pattern, but I'd definitely love to try one for me, thank you for the review! You're always so inspirational!
I like your version far better than the Vogue version as it suddenly looks like a wearable top. I can even imagine it with skinny jeans for very chic casual. You have done a wonderful job on the detailing.
I remember this pattern, I was so attracted to it, but then the "advanced" tag kept me away. I love the lines of it and all the details. You made such a great job! Lenghtening the body is spot on, it makes a big difference. I find it is "very you" Tres chic!
How fun! I never would have chosen a sleeve like that, but it looks so nice on you, I think that Iām reconsideringā¦. š Great Job!
Oh my! I don't know too many people who can pull off this top – both to sew and wear! Very nice, very impressive – the perfect autumn top!
Fab!!!
B.E.A.U.T.I.F.U.L – I have peeked at this pattern several times and now I wished I had bought it.
I so happy to hear this could be made without that zipper. I wonder how it would look with a little less fullness in the sleeves? Thanks!
I had no idea, looking at the pattern envelope, that this top could be so pretty! You've done beautiful work with the details, just lovely.
Wow! Beautiful job on all the details. This does look like a fun jacket to have in the wardrobe!
Very interesting top and love that we changed the right side of the fabric to suit ourselves. Those bell sleeves are very large but maybe the length is keeping them out of mischief!
WOW! It looks soooo dificult! I had never seen this kind of undersleeve or oblique zipper in a garment. The thing I most love is the topstiching and the front pocket. Congratulations for sewing this tricky project!
I love your new top Carolyn. I think you could wear it with lots of pieces you already have. I also believe you are a lady with a lot of patience. When I saw that the steps in the pattern numbered more than 50, I knew it will never happen that I will make this top!
Carolyn, once again a superb effort. Chado Ralph Rucci garments always use intricate seams, and if not well done, the whole garment is marred. And the zip. Such lovely placement and inserted so well. I think the sleeves probably don't get in the way because it looks as though they are thoughtfully designed to almost swing back a little.
I love your new top – it looks fantastic (as usual). Stunning photos as well!
Whee! I've seen a few versions of this top in blogland, and I love it. It's interesting and drapes beautifully, and you did a fantastic job on all the finicky stuff. I had no idea that zipper was put in on a curved seam – yikes!
that is one cool top, and great interpretation in denim.
The Chado Ralph Rucci patterns are great. I wouldn't have thought to do that one in denim but it totally works. Lovely.
What beautiful photos of you and your dog in the bush. Just gorgeous. The top is pretty snazzy too. Lots of nice details.
This looks lovely, such a great colour.
me encanta Carolyn, me parece original y muy moderno, que chulada!
I have been crawling around this pattern for ages, because I love the design so much. But, alas, I'm too short for such clothes, it would look horrible on me (I'm pretty sure).
Anyhow, I love this top on you! So well executed (as is to be expected from you) and beautiful. Aaah.
Okay , Carolyn …this is clearly a triumph of technical awesomeness! The architectural details are so beautiful and well done. It's no, wonder you chose this pattern.It suits you well!
This pattern is absolutely brilliant! I am very interested in the invisible zipper inserted in a manner so original! You are a sewing genius!
I ran out of French curses somewhere around the zipper in the top. Of course it will go over your head – and anyone who needs an additional 12"-14" to get it over her head must be an alien. I did find I could edgestitch and topstitch over the zipper tape and keep those details in line with the rest of the seam. I'm now stuck on inserting the sleeves and your suggestion to hold off on the slashing is my next try at it. I'll patch it with fusible interfacing and try again. If I have to rip it out again I may have to turn to drink…since your notes make it clear there are more challenges to come.