O hey!!
So, what to make when you just want a super quick and easy project? usually I would reply joyfully and with complete confidence “a lingerie set!”. And I mean, I know I’m really going to enjoy wearing this, what turned out to be a nice and very pretty set, in my opinion, and I really love it, and all’s well that ends well. But I guess every now and then I need to remind myself to never ever get blasé about inserting elastic. Honestly, when all goes smoothly then it’s all so easy and you wonder what all the fuss is about; when it doesn’t then, just saying; zig-zag stitch on thin stretchy jersey, in matching coloured threads is the ABSOLUTE PITS to unpick. THE PITS, I SAY!!!
Pattern; both bra and two pairs of matching undies are the cloth habit Watson, definitely my favourite tried and true nowadays. Construction of bra modified to have a full lining with all concealed seams, as per my tutorial here, and undies altered so as to not have the horizontal crotch seam, as per usual.
Fully lined… and it’s difficult to see, but I always under stitch the front V of the bra/lining, so as to keep the lining nicely tucked inside
Material; seagull printed cotton jersey from Spotlight… so pretty, I couldn’t resist the instant I saw it! It’s a nice quality and I think the duck-egg blue and soft teal wavey/wonky stripes are really lovely, and of course seagulls are pretty apt for a beach-loving girl like me! I bought it on a trip there with Cassie… she bought some too, for a Tshirt, I think? Lining is a soft thin, polyester; white elastics and findings from Homecraft Textiles; raspberry mini-bows made by me and recycled from a previous set.
I’m including this picture of the back of the bra; because for a long while now I’ve been putting the rings and sliders in this position, which is back to front from how it’s recommended in the pattern. I’ve tried it with the findings at the front, but found this way uses less elastic, and sits more comfortably for me. Yes, you do have to have the straps adjusted to the right length before you put it on, but I just like it this way, for the moment.
I made my usual two pairs of matching undies
Pretty raspberry mini-bows! I’ve probably said it a million times, but navy/pink is one of my all time favourite colour combinations!
Now for a brief post-mortem, if you don’t want to read a good whinge, stop now!
So, my biggest mistake was absent-mindedly picking up a length of navy blue underbust elastic and inserting it fully to the lower edge of the bra, with two passes of zig-zag stitch PLUS a single row of basting stitches too, including requisite thread changes for colour … before remembering that “oh yeah, I had actually gone out and bought some white elastic for this set and the blue elastic was supposed to be for a different set I have cut out right now …. *grrr* what a dweeb. That took a good hour or so of unpicking in front of the telly… to get back to square one…
The other mistake was to try out a shortcut I’d thought of in my head by stitching the picquet elastic on the undies, jersey side up . i.e. elastic underneath; and stitching with a negligible seam allowance on the cotton jersey, to avoid having to trim it after the first pass of zig-zag stitch. This was a big mistake for two reasons; firstly, turned out I’d stitched too close to the picquet edge and stitched it FULLY DOWN! but couldn’t see that I’d done this because it was underneath, and secondly, the jersey edge kept wanting to buckle and slide underneath the needle, because it didn’t have enough of a seam allowance to the right of the needle to stabilise it going underneath my machine foot. Yes, I should have gone slow to check that all was going well, but I arrogantly zoomed ahead, struggling with the buckling but making it work with SHEER BLOODYMINDEDNESS and a smattering of judiciously applied cursing; and stitched a whole waist elastic on before conceding that indeed, this was a disaster. Result, another lengthy session with the seam ripper. See comment in the first paragraph about unpicking. Moral of the story; don’t try to shortcut this step! I’ve learnt my lesson!
Oh, Carolyn, I so know these struggles and I have to admit that I had to grin reading this and remembering my own faults sewing lingerie. But all went well and you are rewarded with a cute little lingerie set!
I am sure you know it already, but since I have learnt only manipulating the thread and never pulling the fabric when unpicking it is much easier to me. I have provided me with a haemostatic forceps which has a good grip to pull the threads and now I do no longer fear unpicking so much.
Now I can‘t wait seeing the one you make with the blue elastic!
It is an adorable set.
It’s really cute! The seagulls are so fun and summery. Sorry the elastic was such a hassle this time. (Though I always think elastic is a hassle, that’s been the worst learning curve for my recentish forays into bras and swimwear!)
Cute set! I haven’t tried the knits from Spotlight in years, so it is good to hear that you are happy with the quality – I might give them another look now.
I love the beach too, so of course I think your new set is fab! But thank you for posting about the unpicking. It’s easy to assume people who’ve sewn a long time and get such good results NEVER have to unpick!!
A lesson on shortcuts – happens all the time with everything I short cut too, but with triple zig zag on knit and elastic, a real pain , you must have cursed and kicked yourself. And so hard to unpick on a knit – holes usually appear quite quickly. Persistance paid off though… these look great. I like the way you line – I line cups but found that casing worked well for covering the underbust seams – and adds a bit of support.
I love it ! I dream to do the same !
Whilst I have huge sympathy for all that unpicking, it did make me smile because this is exactly how I behave – constantly, never seeming to learn! Apart from the unpicking your set is gorgeous and reminds me that I need new underwear rather urgently. Let me learn from your lessons – hmm, we’ll see!
This is such a cute set! I am curious about your fully lined method – it appears from this post and your tutorial post as well that there is no elastic on the inner neck edge? I have always used elastic there when I make my Watson bra, I am curious if I am just misunderstanding or if you find elastic to be unnecessary there?
thanks so much Caroline! You’re correct; I never apply elastic to the inner neckline edge of any of my bras … I don’t find it necessary and in fact I think it’s better/more stable, not to. In the early days of my bra-making I studied lots of rtw bras and none of them elasticise that area so I believe it’s not an area that’s meant to stretch. I do however apply elastic to the outer edge of the cups, always 🙂
Thanks for the great answer! I am in need of some new Watsons for summer and will definitely be following your method. I have often found myself wanting a cleaner look on that inner neck edge and now I can get it!
Caroline
I’m firmly in the ‘sewing lingerie is hard’ camp, LOL. Hearing that you have trials from time to time is actually a comfort, hahaha.
Anyways, your finished make is sooooo cute! I love the print!
Oh I am with you lady, I have unpicked three step zigzag on a bikini top and it was not fun – not fun at all! Your new set in dreamy and has made me want to sew a new set. Jo x
Love it!!! Sweet color combinations with the fanciful design will make these such fun to wear. Still have not dipped my toe in lingerie, but certainly have my share of unpicking…. and that a pro like you has moments like these, makes me feel sort of okay about my own shortcomings. Look forward to seeing the next pair! Btw, at first I thought these were a new swimsuit set. Could be?!! 🙂 xx
Love your Watson set, Carolyn. And that seagull print is fantastic – what a great find! I know EXACTLY what you mean about unpicking a zig-zag stitch from a stretch jersey – nightmare!! But it obviously all worked out for you in the end 🙂
A fun set and oh unpicking zig zag is a nightmare.
Oooh, great tip on understitching the V. I’ll have to remember that for my next lingerie project. & yes, unpicking elastic is the worst! Even if you’re being really conscientious about pulling the bobbin thread, it’s always kind of a shitshow.
Is it weird to think it’s reassuring that you also make silly (sewing) mistakes sometimes?
That’s a lovely lingerie set. Beautiful colours and just a bit whimsical.