… in addition to luggage pressies, I made some shirts for those incredibly difficult t
o buy/make-for men in my life. Honestly, it would be so much more fun and frivolous if I only had girls to make stuff for, but you know. I love these big blokey-bloke creatures anyway.
My husband and sons all do like shirts fortunately, and I recently bought this new pattern, Burda 6874, and made a short-sleeved version for Craig, here. For these new ones though, I went with the full-on, long-sleeved version.
Prior to Christmas Craig and I went to several Christmas parties, and on on a fair few we encountered our good friend S, a man who is the most super-stylish, fashion-forward, hip dresser you could imagine in sleepy old Perth. Needless to say, he is not actually a born-and-bred Perth man.
I always look forward to seeing what he is wearing. Anyway, a couple of weeks ago he was sporting a floral shirt. And not a traditionally manly type of a floral, like a Hawaiian print or abstractly/discreetly masculine-y subdued-colour floral either, but a distinctly “pretty” floral with rambling roses in shades of pink and pale yellow. Well! With the way he’d styled it, with rolled up sleeves and faded blue jeans, it just looked so awesomely cool, it blew my tiny little mind. SO ON POINT!!! With brain a-buzzing, I forthwith made haste to the fabric store like immediately; to add some cool-dude florally goodness to Craig’s wardrobe. I should just slip in here, Craig is not much of a fashion-forward guy actually. To his credit, he wore this shirt on Christmas Day, and looked super cool. He garnered many compliments too, hehe (rubs nails on chest pridefully)
I also made a shirt for Sam. His is a fun and beautifully coloured feather print, that I just fell in love with, randomly. Oh, in each case, I’ve customised the fit of the pattern to suit each guy… Sam is my easy one, in that he just about perfectly fits a size 38. YAY!! Craig is not so perfect, ahem 😉 he still requires that 2cm extension out and down from each underarm point, plus the same modification to the sleeve/underarm point. Otherwise I run him up a straight size 40 with a little added length in the body too.
All fabrics and buttons are from Spotlight, both a crisp cotton print. Funny thing, while I was making each shirt, I kept each guy’s shirt super secret from that particular guy, but was less careful when that guy wasn’t around. So every now and again they would catch sight of the other one’s shirt. And even though I was careful to say to them, “btw, this is NOT for you!” they each privately thought the other’s shirts WERE for them, and were looking forward to wearing them! I’m sorry! but yes, I was telling the truth 😉
I altered things very slightly on each shirt… the pockets are different on each one. They both have two breast pockets; but Craig’s has arrow-pointed bottoms, and I did a little bar tack on the top edge of the topstitching, in lieu of the usual triangle. I don’t know why, just a whim. For Sam’s, the pockets have a rounded bottom, and the regular triangle at the top edges. I chose shiny black button for his shirt, to pick out the black feather borders, and unobtrusive, white, matte buttons for Craig’s shirt, to allow the floral to truly shine, hehe.
The other alteration I made for both was to make the sleeve plackets with an arrowhead top… the previous pattern I used Burda 7767, had this feature and I’ve just grown to like it. The Burda 6874 sleeve placket has a flat, rectangular head; I did use this pattern piece still, just cut it a little bit longer at the top and stitched it with the arrow head. I had to giggle at myself though, because there’s pretty good chance these shirts will ALWAYS be worn with the sleeves rolled up, they’re just that kind of shirt! and those immaculately stitched sleeve plackets won’t ever be seen. Ha!
When I wrote about this pattern previously, I mentioned how I always hand-slipstitch the inner collar in place before topstitching, and quite a few people commented how you could dispense with the hand-stitching; just press the SA in and topstitch and voila! However, maybe it’s just me, but I just do not get a very neat finish that way. I’ve tried it, but nearly have always ended up unpicking and re-doing little bits here and there, where it ends up a bit uneven. So, now I save myself the unpicking and just do the invisible hand-stitching, then topstitch from the outside; and get this satisfactory (to me) evenness in the collar finish. I suppose I am pretty pedantic, but I just cannot dispense with that step and I admire anyone who can.
topstitched on the outside
still looks kinda neat inside
In both shirts; all seams are flat-felled, including the armscye seam (tutorial for flat-felling a curved seam here) It’s a bit crazy, particularly given my very tight schedule for making Christmas gifts this year, but since I discovered that I could do this level of finish for my mens’ shirts, now I just can’t let it go and always have to do it. Really, it doesn’t add that much time overall. Sometimes I wish a little that I could go back to those days of carefree-ly zipping the seam allowances through the overlocker, but no. #sigh
This side seam, um… gusset/insert-thingy? don’t know what you should call it really, but this is a feature of the pattern. I love this! It’s just a little thing, but I think it looks really nice.
I’m planning to write a pattern review for this pattern too… but in a nutshell; LOVE almost everything about it! with the one exception of the instructions for doing the front buttonhole bands. Those are a little light-on and it’s not intuitive, really. You kind of have to work it out from scratch each time… I’m thinking of doing a little tute for myself to refer to in the future. Next time I make a shirt 🙂
How fantastic!!! I love those shirts.
Those inserts on side seams are intriguing. How are those made? If possible, Can you share a picture from the inside too please?
thanks Kay! and honestly, there’s absolutely nothing to them… It’s simply a diamond shape, cut on the bias, pressed in half wrong sides together, and then you stitch it underneath the gap at the side seam left by the curved hem. Like a patch, but a patch sewn underneath, if you like 🙂
Absolutely fabulous! And I’m with you. I hand stitch my inner collar band and also my cuffs before topstitching. I just can’t get it as neaten but just pressing the SA under.
I need to learn those flat felled seams. I just did mock ones on my Archer yesterday but I’d love to make shirts like this.
Shirt making is zen sewing. I love all the middle steps and details!
How groovy are those shirts! Lucky men!
Your attention to detail paid off in spades. The collar stitching is perfect and the felled armscyes are the detail that elevates the whole shirt(s). I live the floral, too!
Beautiful, and ambitious! I just finished a long-sleeved plaid shirt for DH, and he was so happy, but it took FOREVER. Plaid matching was nearly the end of me! He did receive many compliments at Christmas, including the best compliment of people not believing that it was homemade. 🙂 That being said, you are a champ for completing two beautifully crafted, stylish shirts in such a short time!
These are really beautiful shirts. I love that floral particularly. I am dying to make my son a shirt and have some lovely cotton with sharks on it that screams shirt but he doesn’t want one 🙁 but I may just make it and use your flat felled seams tutorial to practise. I love the little patch thing on mens shirts too.
These shirts are AMAZING!! Wow. Your sewing is impeccable!
Oh, I love both of the shirts! I love prints like this and would like so much to sew floral shirts. Sadly, my husband is quite conservative- plaid it is. I love all the finishings you would make, the imaculate top stitching, the flat felled seams and your beautiful collar stands. Your hand stitching makes the difference! 🙂
I love these shirts too Caroline! Gorgeous and hats off to both your men for wearing them so pridefully 🙂 of course any man would 🙂 I made my husband a Tee and was so proud but a shirt?? Yikes that’s just plain scary. I am taking a shirt making course online in the next month or so and I’ll remember that bit you mention about handsewing before doing the topstitching. I don’t mind handsewing actually but when I get into the flow of sewing something together I just forget to do it (and always regret it too because nothing keeps everything all together ready for the machine like handsewing!)
I am swooning over pointed sleeve plackets! The fabrics are fabulous. Jo x
Beautiful job on those shirts — love the fabrics you chose!
Love this post on your shirts – what a beautiful job! I’ve sewn one shirt from this same pattern- had to laugh because despite being so careful, I sewed the sleeves to the wrong armscyes . Ripping out the sleeves with finished flat felled seams was quite a chore. Have purchased a lovely Italian cotton & will proceed with another shirt. I applaud your fabric choices & am hopeful that my husband will buy into something a little more fashion forward after he gains a comfort level with my finished products.
I had to laugh at your comment that the stitching on the inner collar looks “kinda neat” – very few people can make their collars look as tidy as yours! Your handstitching is something that stays in place – not basting that is removed later? The shirts are just awesome 🙂
I’m picking a pattern for my husband. Have you packed away the other birds for good? Which do you prefer and why? Thanks!
I meant other burda pattern you used to use for your menfolk. Auto fill!
Hi Karen, I haven’t packed my old Burda 7767 away for good, but it’s pretty frail now, which is hardly surprising since I’ve used it roughly 40 times now… I just decided it was high time I treated myself to a new pattern! I like both patterns… this new one is a slimmer fit, which is a more “modern” silhouette in menswear I think, otherwise they’re pretty similar. I think the old one might be out of print now, too? If you search for Burda 7767 in my search bar you can see all the version of that pattern I have made and compare the appearance of those with this one, if you like.
fabulous fabric choices – I would so wear that floral one.
Love these shirts! I’m not a guy but Id wear either:) I love the flat felt seams on the sleeves. How did you do that? Do you clip the seam first so it will stretch? And with the second stitching it would not stretch anymore? In other words Tutorial please ?) Thank you!
thanks Becky! I have written tutorials on flat felling seams in shirts, if you click on the highlighted blue words in that particular paragraph in this post, it is the link to those two tutorials. I recommend flat felling each seam as it is sewn and before moving on to the next seam, in order as they are sewn in the pattern. 🙂
Shirts! Love making them, and yours look terrific. The little side tabs are dynamite. 🙂
Both are great, but I really like the feathers, such a lovely idea for a shirt! I’m with you on the collars and cuffs, I also slip stitch first, then topstitch Doesn’t look neat otherwise
I LOVE these shirts Carolyn. I have the same issues with top stitching the collar seam down…hand sewing is the only way for me to get it neat enough.
Beautiful shirts. You have inspired me to make some for the man in my life. I admire your attention to detail which adds an exceptional finish that all sewers appreciate. Congratulations.
These shirts are stunning! I keep admiring your flat-felled seams.
Those shirts are amazing and your stitching is beautiful. Th guys in your life are very lucky
Loving these floral shirts. I wish I could convince my hubby to wear a floral shirt. I agree that they look kinda cool.
What absolutely fun fabric, those shirts are quite stylish!
Amazing shirts and funny how they were each prepared to wear the other’ shirt. I do love that little insert on the side seams.
Any cuff or collar is handstitched in place before topstitching so I can get the clean finish you showed.
I hand-stitch seams too. It’s quick and more secure than pins or wonder clips to make sure things stay where they should be. I am loving the little gusset thingy in the side seams. Great detail.
I’m with you about flat-felling seams now… I just can’t go back to the overlocker with them. I love how your shirts turned out, and I am envious that you have a store you can turn to for shirt-weight fabrics in such amazing prints!
The shirts are so smart. Your attention to detail elevates everything you make.
These are absolutely 100% very cool and as always so beautifully sewn.
Two awesome shirts for your men. I just love the fabrics you chose. I’m with you about hand stitching the collar before topstitching. For me, I get a much neater finish.
Those shirts are the coolest!!!! After now having made my first collar stand, I so understand your hand-stitching that step. Thank you for re-posting the flat felled seam tutorial links. Saved now for future reference. Love the way you finish the insides. 🙂
Wow. I made just one shirt for my husband this Christmas. Can’t believe you made two, plus all those bags as well. They look fantastic, and I’m totally with you on basting/handstitching the inner collar stand before sewing it in place.
I am so happy that I am not the only one who buys “different” fabric for men. I usually buy quilting fabric since those are the type of shops I frequent. When they ask what I am going to do with it and I tell them it will be a sure for my husband they don’t believe me. The always ask me will he really wear it. I am tell them yes and with pride. I pick flower, Santa Clause (which he looks like), pink flamingos, you get the Idea. I also just bought this pattern for him.
Isn’t it nice to have friends like S in our lives to inspire us? I love your fabric choices!
I agree about the hand sewing, I always do this, as I think this is how shirts used to be made. These shirts are awesome!
Those fabrics are perfect,they look so cool made up as shirts! And I love how neat everything is finished. I totally get your urge to fancy-finish the seams 🙂
Incredible shirts! Your finishing is impeccable (as always) and the interesting fabrics give them both a very designer-y feel. I do my collar the same way as you, I’m simply not an accurate enough cutter or sewer to do it accurately in one go on the machine.
What wonderful inspired shirts! I always feel a bit sad for possible limitations in men’s wardrobes. What a cool way to overcome! The guys look great.