Filling another (so-called) must-have void in my wardrobe; the little black skirt. I do have a charcoal skirt already, that is a much worn little thing, but the classic black was missing; well, no more. I really made this about a month ago, and am only now getting around to wearing it and photographing it. With Me-Made June floating around soon I thought I’d better get onto keeping up with documenting my actual sewing in these posts, I still have a few newies that haven’t appeared here yet…
So now I have my classic black skirt I should be set for winter, although as Donna rightly pointed out yesterday I rarely wear the “classic white shirt” much either. Maybe I’m not classic enough? Paradoxically I often find my more out-there and distinctive garments such as my bright orange skirt, a lot easier to work into my daily ensembles. Hmmm, ridiculously still don’t really know what my “style” is; this requires more thought…
Whastevs, I always intended to have a go at this allegedly Karl Lagerfeld designed skirt from the 10/2010 issue of Burdastyle magazine, the reason I bought this magazine, actually.
I used up another piece of leftovers from my stash, this a piece of black gabardine leftover from a long gone skirt I made back in 2007. Yah, ’bout time it got used up, huh…?
I feel hugely and disproportionately chuffed when I do reduce the stash, especially when it’s a piece of fabric I’ve had this long. And, confession time, the stash is still getting added to, all too frequently… it’s like a one step forward, two steps back kind of thing. I wonder if I will ever be at a point when I have no fabric, and need to go fabric shopping? Hard to imagine… (insert literal lol here)
Back to the skirt…
I did incorporate a few modifications, as usual. The blindingly obvious is that I lengthened it by about 12cm, or as much as my piece of fabric would allow me. Would you look at the skirt length on that model?? (at right) Granted, she could be over six foot tall, but still. Almost more like a belt, really. My husband has a term to describe skirts like that, but I won’t reproduce it here… family viewing and all that…
Another obvious modification I made is to the back of the skirt; if you look at Burda’s line drawing you can see the original design has a gathered elasticised waistband at the back. Gathered elasticised waistbands are an anathema to me. Like, no way… So I made a slightly curved back waistband fitted to my waist, and dealt with the fullness of the skirt by incorporating two big inverted box pleats, sewed to about 7cm long, in the usual dart position. Pretty pleased with how this looks too. I like my version, a lot. I think the pleats are far more pleasing to the eye that a gather would be, and the look of them fits in a lot better with the look of the front of the skirt, which has some pleating too.
The other modification; a minor one, is to increase the size of those laughably small inseam side pockets. No kidding, those pockets as they were were designed for children.
So there you have it. My new skirt, a little bit of Lagerfeld in my wardrobe!
Details:
Skirt; Burdastyle magazine 10-2010-136 with some modifications, black gabardine
Shirt; Brown Sugar
Cardigan; Allude, from Ricarda
Tights; Kolotex
Shoes; Misano, from Labels
Below is my pattern review…
Pattern Description:
Trouser styled mini skirt with front creases, front fly zip and extra-wide hem-cuff/turn-up.
Pattern Sizing:
34-42, I made a size 38
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes, except that mine is about 12cm longer.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Pretty easy.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I particularly like the “trouser” styling of the skirt. It’s a really tailored kind of looking skirt, and yet still manages to look cute and funky. The front pleats are sharp; in the cool and stylin’ sense of the word… I also love the interest of the little flaps over the front pleats. The turn-up at the hem is yet another interesting feature in a little skirt packed with interesting features.
I didn’t like how the back was to be gathered into an elasticised waistband, but that is just my personal taste; I loathe elasticised waistbands with a passion. So I modified mine to be NOT elasticised.
Fabric Used:
Gabardine, the sort men’s business suits are made of
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I lengthened the skirt pieces at around hip level, by about 12cm. The original is SHORT!
To replace the elasticised waistband; I made a slightly curved back waistband fitted to my waist, and folded and sewed box pleats (7cm long) on each of the skirt backs in the usual dart position, to take in the extra fullness of the skirt pieces into my waist measurement. I really like how my skirt back turned out, much much better than an elasticised waist… sorry, Mr Lagerfeld.
The inseam side pockets as they are, are tiny, so I made mine a bit bigger.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I’m sure when this distinctive little skirt is worn out, I will sew a replacement!
Conclusion:
I bought this issue of the Burdastyle magazine, just because of the Lagerfeld patterns, and this skirt didn’t let me down. I adore the styling of it! It is tailored, classic and smart, and yet has interesting and distinctive features. With that bit of added length I think it would make quite a witty office skirt too.
Your skirt looks amazing, I much prefer your pleats and length addition to Lagerfield's version. Yours is Lagerfield with elegance and modesty included.
The zipper looks unusually long but I love it!
I *love* your new skirt! That's a fantastic outfit. Brilliant job!
Really nice design. I like that you put pleats in the back; better than gathers. And the length is just right.
Ohh I LURVE this skirt Cazza and i am loving the whole outfit. Saved it into my faves. Your changes to the skirt definitely improve the original. I agree, it's a tailored skirt that steals the show. 🙂
Very smart looking design.The fabric you have chosen appears to suite it perfectly. Agree with chosen length and like pleat look too.
Wonderful skirt.
Oh, I love it! It is very sharp indeed. And I like your added length and LOVE your back pleats. 🙂
Really nice. Your finishing, as always, looks so professional, and the menswear look is very classic.
I love your modifications to the skirt! I like the back pleats a lot better than the gathers! If I can find this issue, I'm going to get if for the Lagerfeld pieces.
I wondered who would make this skirt. It looked tempting but challenging. Your version does not disappoint!
That is such a cool skirt, truly amazing in design.
I like your version……looks great!
Fantastic skirt! Love that you passed on that elastic back, too. (Eeek! Like Crazy Uncle Karl would endorse elastic in ANYTHING?!?)
I enjoy your outfit, too. That little peek of lace sleeve is a great counterpoint to the masculine styling. Beautiful!
Terrific skirt. I especially like your waistband and back pleat alterations. On those pockets, I guess dear Karl hasn't heard that all pockets must be at least mommy-sized. Yes mommy-sized because mommies are the onces that have to clean out the little pockets of ???
Super skirt. I bought that magazine for the same reason but then forgot about it. You did such I great job.
I've had my eye on this pattern for a while. I love your version and the back pleats……perfect!
LOVE the skirt! Your changes are brilliant. Definitely not a boring black skirt.
Great skirt – I love it! The length is perfect and I far prefer the inverted pleats at the back to gathers too.
I quite like the short version but it is a bit of a, err, pelmet! More suited to the catwalk than real life – unlike yours which is perfect!
Lovely skirt, so well styled. I also really love your photography here.
Truly a gorgeous skirt and style is perfect for you!
oooh i love this skirt!!! twud be perfect addition to my wardrobe – suitable for work but would be more than happy to wear out afterwards if had something on, the cogs are whirring!
and elasticated back waists, to me, are for the very young and the very old and have little to no place in between!
Its absolutely fantastic. Very smart, and elegant. You definitely did the right thing by adding to the length!
I love it! I also love how you styled the skirt. It's so hard to find interesting skirts and with your alteration to the back waistband this is a great one.
Ah… as soon as I saw your title, I wondered if this was the pattern you attempted, and sure enough it was. The original skirt was unwearable in my opinion. But you worked your magic and made a beautiful, flattering, expertly crafted version. It's brilliant and brilliantly styled.
Very nice, I've had my eye on this skirt too and the plan is to lengthen it too – oh yes it would take a very very special pair of legs (and underpants!) to pull the original 33 cm final length off..
Love your skirt, definitely the alteration of the waistband in the back improved the design itself, you outdone yourself
Love lengthened version of this skirt. The mini lacks balance with the cuffed hem almost as big as the skirt. Re the wearability of a black skirt – my wash basket says it all. Every week my black ponte makes an appearance.
This skirt is very stylish and chic. The length is perfect. You've done such a fabulously neat job on those pockets.Thumbs up all round.
Great skirt! Classy.
How wonderful the cuff on this skirt is! And the modifications you have made to the pattern truly work.
Great choice lady! Classy and still interesting. a cuff? well heck, yes!
oh yes, the box pleats are sooo much better than an elasticized waistband. Thought those weren't sported by anyone older than 4!!
FYI: You don't have to track down the magazine, that pattern is also available as a download at BurdaStyle website. The link for 10/2010 Karl Lagerfeld #136 is here.
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