Tag Archives: Burda 7767

a bevy of beauties

I can now share the fruits of my Christmas shirt-making bendah!!  Old news? oh well…
I made four shirts recently.  Yes, four! *phew* all since I returned home from Melbourne.  I know.  Sheer insanity.  I has it.
Actually I did have different Christmas pressie plans, firm intentions to do something else for them all this year.   And then couldn’t find the specific fabric I needed.  And then the Fabric Store in Melbourne had such a gorgeous quality linens in stock…
resistance was futile.  Shirts it was.  My other plans will keep for next year  ðŸ˜‰
All are made using Burda 7767, all with short sleeves, all felled seams, with those tricky curved armscye seams felled using this tip.  The linen had no right or wrong side, enabling me to fold the buttonhole bands out, rather than under.  This makes a rather nice distinct buttonhole band, which can be further emphasised with piping like I did here, or a coupla double rows of top-stitching, or both.  This is my favourite way of doing the buttonhole band.
Burda 7767 has three collar variations; the button-down, the Kent and the shark.  I’ve used all of them at one time or another in my 30-odd versions of this pattern, but haven’t ever pointed out the differences specifically when blogging about them.  So this time, I shall do so  ðŸ™‚

Shirts 1 and 2, above and below: Tim’s and Sam’s pale blue shirts both feature the “shark” collar, more traditionally known as the cutaway collar.  It was a collar designed to accommodate a large or widely knotted tie, but I think it makes a nice collar for a casual shirt, worn open with the top few buttons undone.  Which, lets face it, is how my boys wear their shirts, like 99.99% of the time.

Tim’s shirt

They are both of sky blue linen, with piping inserted in under the buttonhole band, the pocket and sleeve hems.  Tim’s piping is pale blue and Sam’s is creamy pale yellow; these fabrics harvested from two of Craig’s old business shirts.  I cut both the boys’ shirts a little slimmer in the body and a little shorter of sleeve than I’ve done in the past, because I’ve noticed the fashion in young mens’ shirts is for a slightly shrunken look at the moment.
btw, Cassie made Sam’s shorts in the top picture; I think she did a brilliant job and they look gorgeous!  The fabric is Batman cotton from Spotlight, and she drew up the pattern herself using some of Sam’s shorts to guide her.  They have two welt pockets on the back as well as two inseam side pockets, and an elastic waistband.

Shirt 3; Craig’s blue linen shirt has a Kent collar, considered the classic collar.  I originally made the sleeves on this shirt a little shorter like the boys…  However! upon first try-on my conservative husband immediately requested a lengthening, ahem.  *sigh*  I complied and added a long cuff, with a decorative metal button sewn on the top edge.

This shirt has a longer back than front, and split side seams felled with a long bar tack at the top.  The other three shirts all have a regular, shaped hemline. 

Shirt number 4; Craig’s emerald green shirt has the rather difficult to execute button-down collar.  

To my mind the button-down collar has the most formal appearance of the bunch, but actually this is considered the “sporty”option in collars.
So there you go! a short compilation of collars. 
Haha, bevy of beauties, compilation of collars, I’m so alliterative this morning.  Sheer poetry, wot.

All buttons were harvested from off of some of Craig’s old business shirts.  RTW mens’ shirts nearly always have great buttons, good colours, good quality and in a difficult to find small size.  Only the Craig’s blue linen shirt has new metal buttons, from Spotlight.

pinterestmail

Three pin-striped shirts

My Christmas present to my boys this year is a tailored shirt for each one; in pin-striped linen with contrasting white collar, cuffs, and buttonbands, and a double welted breast pocket with looped button closure.

Three shirts in addition to Cassie’s outfit and Craig’s birthday shirt.  Phew!  These have kept me super busybusybusy, nose to the grindstone sewing machine for the last few weeks since we got back from Melbourne!  This is the first year I’ve made three long-sleeved shirts for Christmas, the past few years I’ve made things a little easier on myself by slipping at least one short-sleeved one in there.  The cuffs and little sleeve plackets are quite a bit of work, and a short sleeved shirt feels almost quick and easy by comparison.  In the past I’ve always given each item I make its own post, and particularly because of the amount of work that goes into a highly tailored item like a man’s shirt, I kinda reckon they deserve a post each; but this time I just couldn’t with that.  It’s all been just too much!

All three shirts are made using Burda 7767, with the personal fitting modifications for each of my men that I’ve fine-tuned over many many shirts.  How many of these am I up to??  Must be over 30 of them by now, I think.  

Craig’s is a white with purple pin-stripe and brown-y purple buttons, Tim’s is a charcoal with white pin/stripe and black buttons, and Sam’s is a white with blue pin-stripe and caramel-coloured buttons.  All three pin-striped linens are from Tessuti’s in Melbourne, bought during my recent girls’ weekend away with Mum and Cassie; and all the buttons are from Fabulous Fabrics.  The  white contrasting fabric is a silk/linen mix bought from Fabulous Fabrics.  I’ve totally hoarded this lovely and quite expensive stuff for aaaages and had toyed with bravely cutting into it for one for my own SWAP projects, but decided that my boys deserved the best… (deep breath, must learn to let go of precious fabrics) Fortunately I should still have enough to make something for myself.  Bonus!
All the seams are flat-felled; I used my own tutorial for flat-felling a curved seam to get a nice finish along those sleeve caps.  Craig’s shirt has a long curved hemline because it’s more business-like, and the boys’ shirts both have straight hemlines with a lapped split side seam.

My review of this excellent pattern is here

pinterestmail

Grey shirt, with some floral

I have made a shirt for Craig’s birthday  ðŸ™‚
Burda 7767, again.
Looks kinda plain from a distance? well, up close it can be seen the shirt has a secret floral surprise!  

I’ve seen a few shirts in up-to-the-minute menswear boutiques with some panels and parts cut from contrasting prints like paisleys and florals, and wanted to make something like this for Craig.  Thing is though, he’s a fairly conservative dresser who would give major side-eye to anything full-on floral…. too scary!  so to ease him into the trend gently and painlessly I just sneaked it in, in innocuous spots, for facings and mostly inside parts.  Meaning at a casual glance you only get tantalising glimpses that it is not just a boring old plain grey shirt.   Fortunately this was acceptable.  Phew!
I’m really pleased with how it looks!  It’s always a bit nerve-wracking choosing fabrics for the menfolk, they can be so easily spooked.  The floral is a little hipster, it’s true; but I think the soothing presence of all that grey cotton broadcloth makes it ok for a man like my husband.  

Both fabrics are from Spotlight, and I used the soft floral Japanese cotton wrong side out to get a softer, pleasantly faded and muted effect.  This is used for all facings: the collar, collar stand, pockets, button and buttonhole bands, sleeve hems and yoke.  The variegated pale/dark grey buttons are from Fabulous Fabrics.
I gave the left breast pocket a pen division, because apparently he actually uses it.

All the seams are flat-felled, and I used my own tutorial to get that sleeve cap curve sitting down nice and flat around the shoulder.  

At the lower edge of the side seams I tried something new, and finished them with a lapped flat-felled split.  I really like how this turned out; it’s strong and looks both neat and smart and I will use this technique for a lot more shirts in future  ðŸ™‚

Details:
Craig’s shirt; Burda 7767 with minor modifications, my review of this pattern here

pinterestmail

Gemini

Gemini, the twins.  
Of course my boys are not twins obviously, they are separated by several years and have one sister in between them too.  But they are both Geminis!  That picture cracks me up btw… so brotherly…  ðŸ˜€

So, of course the other shirt was for Tim, our eldest son!  He had a birthday recently too  ðŸ™‚
The fabric for his shirt is the same that I used for Sam’s but in a different colourway; a medium weight striped cotton drill in black and cream stripes from Spotlight.  The cream background is a touch deeper in colour than the slightly lighter ivory colour that is on Sam’s navy blue and ivory shirt.
I went with an on-grain pocket this time, just for one different visual detail between the two shirts.
The other details are all almost identical: epaulettes, a smaller, slightly rounded collar, 

sleeve plackets cut on the bias.  The same buttons.

The yoke cut in two halves on the bias, with the yoke facing cut as one piece for stability reasons.  Close up, you might notice that on Tim’s shirt the black “arrow” is centred on a black stripe, whereas with Sam’s the negative space white arrow was centred on the negative space white stripe.  Little details like that tickle my fancy  ðŸ™‚

Sam’s

Flat-felled armscye seam allowance as described hereflat-felled sleeve and side seams with a split hem, as detailed in the previous post.

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767 modified, black and white striped cotton, my review of this pattern here

So, two more shirts.  Phew.  I feel like I could just about make these in my sleep now! but two in a row is just about my limit; toward the end of the second one I am getting a little shirted out and need to cleanse my palate by making something completely different before thinking about any more shirts.  Variety (in projects) is the spice of life, non?
Fortunately, my next, er make that, current project is super frivolous and super fun and I am having a ball with it.  Very very very silly and self-indulgent.  I’m having so much fun with it, that I have already roared roughly halfway through and I only bought the fabric on Saturday!  And I don’t even need it for several more weeks!!  I absolutely must slow down.  But eeeee!  It’s such a crazy and ridiculous thing, and I cannot wait to wear it and show it!

And I’m totally embarrassed that I mixed up Gemini and Cancer… when I did Cancer last month, honestly I didn’t even realise I had got it wrong until yesterday when I was browsing through birthday cards in the newsagent.  I think I got confused because my boys both have birthdays in June and are Gemini, and I just thought to myself, well that is going to work out nicely and then made a mental leap that ok then May must be Cancer and didn’t twig that Cancer came after.  You can tell I’m not too crash hot on horoscopes.

pinterestmail

Navy stripes

It was Sam’s birthday a few days back and I made a shirt for him. 

The fabric is from Spotlight, a medium-weight cotton twill in a heavy cream colour with navy blue stripes.  Ahem, stripes again, I know; but hey.  It’s so hard to find different and nice mens’ shirting fabric.  Seriously hard.  Fortunately, Sam loves stripes, so our quest to stockpile the world’s largest, handmade, striped men’s shirt collection is going great guns, thanks.

Buttons; a light bone colour, also from Spotlight.  Y’know, Spotlight gets a lot of flack for the hit and miss nature of their stuff.  And then every now and again, just when you’re about to throw up your hands in despair, you find some gems.  So I’m eating my words right now.  These buttons, and this fabric?  Awesome-sauce!
So, do I have any new revelations about tailoring a man’s shirt?  No.  Am I being mind-numbingly repetitive.  Um, probably!  I used the same ol’ pattern too.  I reeeeeeally should get some new patterns, honestly.  And no; it wasn’t really a huge birthday surprise, since for one, he did actually request it.  But I still wrapped it up so he could unwrap it on the day!
It’s made to his fit preference; loose and boxy enough to wear open over Tshirts and hoodies, if he so desires, which he frequently does. 
Features…  Epaulettes.  

There are one or two bias details, for some visual interest.  Pocket on the bias, with a pen compartment.  Sleeve plackets cut on the bias, and I loooove how this looks!  Plus, it was heaps easier having no stripe matching to worry about here  ðŸ˜‰

Straight hem, with split side seams.
ETA: at right, showing the inside view where the flat-felled seam allowance meets the split side seam… (I will do a small tute on how I do my take on this, if anyone is interested?)

The collar is cut with much smaller, less pointy wings than the pattern piece.

I’ve been accustomed lately to flat-felling the armscye seam allowances, and French-seaming the sleeve and side seams.  Then I read an opinion somewhere that French seams were “feminine” and not suitable for a men’s shirt at all… that flat-felled seaming throughout is the only acceptable finish to a man’s shirt.  O rly??  Well, that burst my bubble.
So I felt sufficiently shamed into going with flat felled seams throughout.  Doing this up inside the sleeves of a shirt is not exactly easy.  I got a pretty nice finish, but it was fiddly business.

The yoke.  
Drastic fabric shortages   an inspired creative decision dictated that I cut it as two halves on the bias.  The yoke facing is a regular, on-grain, single piece of fabric for stability, cut from plain white cotton.

Shirt; Burda 7767 modified, navy and cream striped cotton twill.  My review of this pattern is here, and my previous Burda 7767 makes are here and here.

pinterestmail

Burda 7767; a Rogue’s Gallery

A quick head-count and I realised I’ve made enough more of these shirts to put together another Rogue’s Gallery of Burda 7767’s…
This is hands down my most used pattern evah… I have used it 27 times!!  My first Burda 7767 Rogue’s Gallery contained 14 shirts and now this new gallery features another 13 shirts.  Will there be more…? of course!
It is so easy to add little bits and bobs to this most classic of patterns to create a variety of shirts each with their own distinct character…  each shirt is linked to the original construction post, and my variations to the basic pattern are listed after the link.  My original review of this pattern is here.

version fifteen: a linen army style shirt for me.  Added epaulettes, two bellows breast pockets with flaps, sleeve tabs, folded-out button band, curved hemline.

version sixteen: linen shirt for Craig.  Curved edge breast pockets with curved edge flaps, double buttons on cuffs and pocket flaps, curved hemline
version seventeen: cotton shirt for Dad.  Short sleeves, curved edge pockets with curved edge pocket flaps, curved hemline.
version eighteen: cotton shirt for Craig.  Short sleeves, cuffed sleeves with shaped tabs, shield-shaped pockets with oversized rectangular flaps, curved hemline.
version nineteen: crinkly shirt for Sam.  Epaulettes, bias-cut pockets, bias pocket flaps, curved hemline.
version twenty: slightly stretchy, crinkly shirt for Tim.  Short sleeves, breast pockets and flaps, curved hemline, closely fitted to the body.
version twenty-one: cotton shirt for Craig.  Shorts sleeves, curved hemline, epaulettes, slanted breast pockets with slanted pocket flaps, tabs on sleeves
version twenty-two: cotton shirt for me, now belonging to Cassie and worn as a dress.  Super long length, a curved hemline, and with double, layered sleeves;  a long sleeve linen sleeve underneath a short cotton sleeve.  Square pockets with arrowhead pocket flaps and a button-down collar.
version twenty-three: a linen shirt for Dad.  Bellows breast pockets with arrowhead pocket flaps.  Curved hemline.
version twenty-four: a business shirt for Craig.  Contrasting white collar, collar stand, cuffs, sleeve placket, pocket panel and button bands.  Curved hemline.
version twenty-five: a linen shirt for Tim.  Short sleeves, curved hemline, button down collar, bellows breast pockets with curved pocket flaps, cuffed sleeves with featured buttons
version twenty-six: a crinkly shirt for Sam.  Sleeve tabs, curved hemline
version twenty-seven: a cotton shirt for Craig.  Short sleeves, club collar and split side seams.  Square breast pockets
Trivial fact; that post with the Burda 7767 review and also featuring me wearing an outfit I now consider to be rather hideous; holds the bronze medal in page views on my blog.  This is completely amazing to me.  I have no idea why people would find and randomly hit upon that post!
pinterestmail

White Christmas; Craig’s Christmas shirt


I made a shirt for Craig for Christmas too; and used er, hehehe; Burda 7767 again!  I bought some very nice white cotton broadcloth from Spotlight; and the buttons are also from Spotlight.
Actually, this shirt is a response to a rarity; a request.   Rumblings and murmurings about a nice, smart-casual, short-sleeved white shirt have been increasing in frequency and volume for a few weeks, at least.
I tuned in.  I took action.
Most satisfyingly, he was very very pleased when he opened up his pressie on Christmas morning! and he put it on straight away.  Actually, all my boys put their new shirts on straight away.  Cassie put on her new outfit too (hers to appear here tomorrow!!  ðŸ™‚  )  Most gratifying.  I have to confess; Christmas lunch I looked around, and Dad was wearing this shirt, my two boys and my husband wearing their shirts, and my daughter, as well as (duh) myself; was wearing an outfit made by me. .  My heart just … well, swelled.  Real warm fuzzy moment   (sigh) 
This is a fairly simple version of the pattern.  Simple was just about all I could cope with by this time, since as you can imagine I was fast approaching men’s-shirt saturation point …. And after the hard and heavy duty this pattern has endured over the past few months I think it deserves a nice little rest now  ðŸ™‚  Time to go bye-byes, good and faithful well-thumbed pattern, wishing you sweet pattern-y dreams and I’ll see you in… oh, sometime in the future, I’m sure ….  if when I can muster a skerrick of enthusiasm.
and (whispers) you can be sure I will be leaping with joy upon some new patterns in the New Year.  Yup.  NEW.  Patterns!  Whoo hooooo!!!
This latest version of Burda 7767 has short sleeves, and two very simple squared patch breast pockets, the left one has been partitioned to have a pen compartment.
For the first time I gave the shirt a club collar by curving the collar points off.

The armscye seam allowances are flat felled; utilising a gathering stitch along the curved sleeve cap to achieve this neatly.  The side and sleeve seams are flat-felled also.

I usually like to add a traditionally curved lower hem to my mens’ shirts; but this time I went with a split side seam.  It is hard to see with the white-on-white stitching; but I stitched horizontally along the top of the split with a tight, closely spaced bar of zip-zag stitching.

Going by the worn worn state of Craig’s current white short-sleeved shirt collection; I am completely confident this one will be getting tonnnnnes of wear!

Details:
Burda 7767 modified, white cotton, my review of this pattern here

pinterestmail

Stripey Sam; Sam’s Christmas shirt

Next up; Sam! and I made a shirt for his Christmas pressie too.  Ohhhh yes, I have been a very very busy bee lately!
I used Burda 7767, and blue and white striped fabric from the Fabric Store, Melbourne…  bought during our trip there in September.  I think it is a cotton rayon mix, very crisp, crackly and crinkly, and it has silver lurex threads running randomly through as well.  I bought the white and silver buttons from Fabulous Fabrics.  This version has long sleeves, which can be rolled up and held in place by an arrowhead tab that buttons onto the sleeve, and a single pocket.
I received some complimentary comments about the stripe matching of the pocket on Craig’s birthday shirt, and thank you  ðŸ™‚ but the truth is that stripe matching a patch pocket is NOTHING compared to the stripe matching in this shirt. 
Particularly in the case of the two sleeve cuff plackets.   I performed multiple repeats of teeny tiny precision measurements…  checking and re-checking where the stripes were going to fall on the plackets in relation to the sleeve.  Anyone who has ever sewn a tailored detail like a sleeve cuff placket will know the precision required to get these looking nice and even and perfect … and to get the stripes matching exactly like this as well?    (self high-five)  Truly I consider this one of the highest sewing achievements of my year!

Sleeve tabs… 

Of course the stripes on the pocket match up to those on the shirt too….

The armscye seams allowances are flat-felled on the inside using a gathering stitch on the sleeve cap to achieve this neatly on a curved seam; and the sleeve and side seams are French seams.

Shirt; Burda 7767 modified, my review of this pattern here; blue and white striped cotton mix with a silver lurex stripe

pinterestmail
Switch to mobile version
↓