Tag Archives: Burda 7767

Aegean gracefully….

(Forgive the pun; I couldn’t resist!  You don’t want to be anywhere near me after a few drinkies…  Really)
You see, today is my husband’s birthday; and I have made for him a shirt using Burda 7767 (surprise!), of Aegean shot cotton.
At the risk of self-big-noting… ah what the heck.   This is my most well-finished shirt to date, if I say so myself.  I went down the path of extra immaculateness as far as inner appearances go, and flat-felled the armscye seam allowances as well as the side and sleeve seam allowances.  In some fabrics this might be tricky wicky, but in this amazingly lovely fabric (about which I have previously raved) it turned out to be very achievable…  I’m pretty chuffed at how it turned out!
(below left; view of side, armscye and sleeve seams inside the shirt, right; lower hem and both inside and outside view of side seams)

Modifications to the pattern; well, I absolutely love this pattern (obviously, as this is just the latest in a very very long line of my efforts with Burda 7767) but it is super-basic.  Honestly; great pattern, but it is pretty much a blank canvas…  So once again my long-suffering husband is the innocent victim of experimental, and fortunately minor, mucking about; which he will have to wear out and about in the big wide world for everyone to see…  This time I tried out “coat of arms” shaped breast pockets, and shallow, extra wide pocket flaps that extend out well beyond the edges of the pockets.  This feature is echoed in miniature on the sleeve hems, with their own little “coat of arms” shaped tabs tucked under a turned-up sleeve cuff.  Kinda ups the funk-factor in an acceptably low-key way, no?  Well, I think so…  Since the sleeve cuffs obviously run the full distance around the sleeve hem, I toyed briefly with the idea of extending the breast pocket flaps to fill the entire width of the shirt front to fit in … but decided that might be too weird for my husband to consent to wearing. Sartorially speaking he is a pretty conventional bloke, actually; he likes stuff to be … plain.  I think I shall have to work him up gently to wackier stuff like that.

I sewed decorative buttonholes onto the collar points; now one of my favourite standard features to add to a man’s shirt, and curved the lower hem.  The last is a given, now.
The colour of the fabric is a result of an ultramarine warp with a bright turquoise weft, giving it that iridescent oceanic glow.  Kelly green for the thread and the buttons just seemed to “go”.

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767 with modifications; of Aegean shot cotton

below; the Superman pose

Now our Aegean Superhero is being taken out to a slap-up birthday dinner by his wife and kiddies.  Cheers all!
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Ginger shot cotton shirt

Dad had a special birthday recently, and I made a shirt for him!  Photographed here in his natural habitat…
I used shot cotton in Ginger, which has a bright-ish ruby-red warp and an intensely curry-yellow weft; two colours which combine to make this wonderfully intense bronze-orange colour; perfect for my Dad’s olive skin and dark brown hair.  I think he looks great in this colour!
And the fabric… well, can I just diverge into a rave for a tick?    Ohmigosh!  but this shot cotton is such a dream to work with…truly, every seamster needs at least one shot cotton shirt in their sewing career, just for the sheer pleasure of cutting, pinning together and sewing this stuff!  I’ve made a couple of shirts of this fabric for Craig, here and here, and myself things from the leftovers, and I cannot get over how absolutely fab is this fabric.  Seriously, sewing induced bliss or what, wow…  (calms oneself)
Now, back to business…
There were some slightly nerve-racking fitting issues; since this was to be a surprise birthday prezzie I couldn’t actually measure up the birthday boy himself without giving it away, so Mum had given me some measurements over the phone.  But I was still pretty nervous when it came time to take the scissors to this luscious fabric… and then Mum and Dad came up for a very fortuitously timed stay, and one time they were out I slyly tip-toed into the bedroom and feeling like a rather sneaky and devious sewing-sleuth, measured up all the dimensions of one of Dad’s shirts and jotted them down (maniacal laugh as I zoom out and back to the sewing room, tape measure a-flying…).  And luckily the fit is spot-on and Dad reckons it’s pretty comfy and stylish!
I used Burda 7767 again, (might have to start compiling yet another Rogue’s gallery for this pattern soon…) with a few adjustments; namely, added two breast pockets with curved lower edges and curve-edged pocket flaps, shaped the lower hemline in a shirtwaist curve, shortened the sleeves, and added a nice V-detail at the centre of the sleeve hems with a decorative button at the apex of the V, for which I wrote a tutorial here.  

I flat-felled the armhole seam allowances, but I don’t know if I would do this again.  Y’know, how sometimes you are so busy making the insides look perfect you start to forget that it is the appearance on the outside that is actually of paramount importance, yeah?  My flat-felled seams do look pretty good (if I say so myself) but it was a fiddly process and topstitching from the inside impacted on the neatness on the outside.  I wasn’t as happy as if I had just overlocked the armhole seam allowance, pinned them down and topstitched them down from the outside, like I usually do…
I debated about using either of the ruby-red or the curry-yellow colours for topstitching; I usually like some sort of contrasting colour, or at least something that stands out somehow, but I ended up going with a burnt orange that sorta matches the overall hue of the fabric.  And with little matte chocolate brown buttons.  And btw, those buttonholes on the collar are intentionally left uncut, since they are purely decorative and you are not supposed to do up those buttons on a casual shirt; I think they look neater that way.
Isn’t he a handsome bloke?

Details:
Shirt; Burda7767 with modifications, shot cotton

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Seafoam linen shirt, with smile-y faces

A new linen shirt for Craig…
Burda 7767, again.  I didn’t even fold up or put away the pattern after making my “army” shirt, just laid out the fabric and cut out this one straight away… efficient, or what?!  My middle name, hehe…
Do you like the smile-y face pocket flaps?  Yes, this was sorta planned…  I don’t think Craig has cottoned on that he is sporting two smile-y faces on his chest yet, he might refuse to wear the shirt if he thinks something is too fashion-y about it…  But I like little “touches” and this one amuses me.
The lower edges of the pockets have a corresponding curve like the flaps, and the cuff edges are curved to match, and also have double buttonholes and buttons.  Those, and the fact that the lower hem has been extended and curved, are the only variations to the pattern here.
I felt a little guilty about this whole project, because the linen was part of the small stash comprising four lengths of linen that we bought with the very intent of me making shirts out of it for Craig about two years ago… and I did use three of these lengths just for that purpose.  But this rather divinely shaded seafoam-green length sat there and sat there and I couldn’t bring myself to get going on the promised shirt.  It looked so desirable and so right for … well, for me.  I was deviously planning and re-planning about a zillion things NOT of the menswear variety, that I could make using this linen; things would fit very nicely into my wardrobe thank you very much, and I even commenced a bit of a campaign about how this colour was actually a bit feminine, wasn’t it, hmmm? and how Craig now had looooads of linen shirts to choose from and might prefer something else, and how the linen would be reeeeeally much better suited to something else, like say… something for me.  And my sweet husband is so good natured he unselfishly gave up his linen shirt rights just to make me happy…  And I did feel happy for about one minute.  Then I felt mean.  So I set to and made him the promised shirt.  And now I don’t feel mean.  And d’ya know the good news, there is actually a largish chunk of leftovers, maybe enough for something to fit me after all.  And I have a clear conscience.
Maybe there is a moral there, something about good feelings and peace of mind.  Attainable to those who don’t wilfully and selfishly steal their loved ones fabric.  Yah, something real deep and meaningful and navel-gazing like that.  But I’m not sure the goodwill will extend to me not appropriating the shirt every once in a while.  After all, look how well it goes with my first self-pedicure of the season?  I think this shirt deserves to be worn with my nail polish, don’t you?

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767 with minor modifications, seafoam-green linen

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Army shirt (not really…)

… but my interpretation of a sorta military look.
I love khaki and all muddy colours, and felt a khaki/muddy/sludgy coloured shirt would be just the thing; and once the military mindset had taken a hold on me it wasn’t long before vaguely uniform-y style details starting sneaking onto my new shirt too…
I used Burda 7767 again (and yes, this is version fifteen of this pattern that I was referring to in the rogue’s gallery of Burda 7767 here).
I added a few little touches; some shoulder tabs, held down with a decorative strip, sleeve tabs to keep those sleeves in place when pushed up halfway up my forearm just how I like it…  The bottom hem is curved.  The pockets have a folded bizzo down the centre front which is top-stitched in place, and I squared off the lower pocket corners.  This shape is echoed in the pocket flaps.  I also folded back the button band to the outside so I could get that look of a separate band, rather than that smooth look you get when it is turned to the inside, although this played havoc with my usual method of neatly finishing the button-band hem edge I worked it out OK in the end.

These buttons are fabulous, aren’t they?  I used 16 to finish this shirt, and if I could have invented ways of sneaking a few extra in here somehow then I probably would have!  They are brass, and are stamped to look somewhat like an ancient Chinese or ancient Roman coin.  Or something like that… am even vaguely toying with the idea of going back to Fabulous Fabrics and buying up every single one of them.  But mustn’t be greedy, must play nice and leave some for others now…  🙂
And take a sqizz at my new label! (thank you so much to my good friend Yoshimi who helped me to get these adorable things!  You have my unending gratitude!)  I LOVE them!  And I feel about them a bit like Elaine from Seinfeld when she found out her favourite contraceptive sponge had been discontinued, and she only had a limited supply left, and she then had to judge each new man she met on whether he was “sponge-worthy”.  Now I have to judge each new garment I make as to whether it is label-worthy or not.  I think my new shirt is label-worthy… What do you think?

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767 with modifications, dark khaki linen
Skirt; my own design; charcoal knit stuff
Tights; Spencer & Lacy
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes
Sunnies; RayBan

(and for those wondering if I had traced off this much used-pattern, lest it get all tattered and torn, I am using the original tissue every time and it is in pretty good nick still, see?  I take very good care of my patterns!)

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Burda 7767; a rogue’s gallery

A while ago, Myrna suggested that I do something about rounding up together in one post the number of variations on a pattern that I have made up; as a sort of “hey, look at the number of different looks you can get from just one pattern” kind of a post.  Thank you, Myrna!
I thought it was a terrific suggestion, as I do re-use favourite patterns a whole bunch of times, probably painfully and boringly so from the point of view of people who like to go for new and exciting patterns with every garment.  But to redeem the boredom of going again and again with the same old same old patterns I usually introduce a little something to a pattern to get slightly different garments each and every time.
One pattern I have used a lot is Burda 7767, a basic men’s shirt pattern.  Now agreed, it’s very basic, and seamstresses after a challenging sew usually avoid basic patterns like the plague.  Advanced seamstresses often prefer to go for something with a few exciting variations or twists already incorporated in it.  But just think, a basic pattern is often the best for playing around with and once you have mastered basic sewing techniques you can introduce your own features.  So much more fun!  I do prefer DIY-ing my own features to being spoon-fed a design; and from the sewing-challenge point of view incorporating your own ideas can be a bigger challenge than even the toughest Vogue Advanced pattern, and you will feel more like an actual “designer” in control of your own ideas.
Most of the shirts I have made from this pattern have been for the menfolk in my life; my husband and my two sons.  OK, I admit I have also made one version for me too, hehe…  and unfortunately men love for their stuff to be kinda unadorned.  But you can still squeeze a few little variations in here and there and as long as it is not too asymmetric or “weird” your menfolk will probably consent to wear it…
So here, without further ado, is my gallery of Burda 7767 (so far…)

The first version: just to the pattern with no bells or whistles, pink linen, navy blue topstitching and navy blue buttons.  I was sewing this one as a birthday surprise so couldn’t do any actual fitting.  It turned out a tad too tight under the arms for Craig, but not to worry, Tim has it in his wardrobe (he is not the kind of guy who feels his masculinity is challenged by a pink shirt) and I have borrowed it tonnes of times too.

Version two; maroon linen, with black contrasting topstitching and buttons.  Variations, a curved pocket flap, curved pocket edges, narrow spaced double rows topstitching.  I’ve also borrowed this one on a few occasions, hehe (it’s a good thing my husband is so generous with his wardrobe, hmmm?)

Version three; blue linen with light brown contrasting topstitching and light brown mottley bone buttons.  Variations, arrowhead pocket flap, curved pocket edges, wider spaced double topstitching.

Version four; for Sam, turquoise and white striped cotton with contrasting navy blue topstitching and navy blue snaps.  Variations; double bias placed breast pockets with arrowhead bias placed pocket flaps, shoulder tabs, inner sleeve tabs (so the sleeves can be rolled up like pictured) and snap closures throughout.

Version five; for Tim, blue, black and white plaid flannelette, with navy topstitching and navy blue snaps.  Variations, pieced pocket pieces (to take advantage of that interesting plaid), bias placed arrowhead pocket flaps. shoulder tabs, inner sleeve tabs and snap closure throughout.

Version six; for Craig, white linen, white topstitching and buttons. Variations; one double welt breast pocket with looped button closure, no collar, curved lower hemline.  Yup, I’ve borrowed this one a tonne too…!

Version seven; (blush) for me…, blue cotton chambray, white topstitching and copper-toned snaps.  Variations, double breast pockets with arrowhead pocket flaps, shoulder tabs and inner sleeve tabs, curved lower hemline.

Version eight; for Craig, navy and white striped cotton, yellow cotton, white topstitching and yellow buttons.  Variations, contrasting fabric for collar stand lining and sleeve cuff lining.  Buttonholes sewn on the diagonal, and grouped together down the buttonband in pairs, curved lower hemline.

Version nine; for Craig, green shot cotton, contrasting yellow topstitching, brown mottley buttons.  Variations, of summer weight cotton, with short sleeves, double curved edge breast pockets, arrowhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.  Did an interesting little triangular cut-out feature thingy on the ends of the sleeves

Version ten; for Tim, beige, black and white irregularly striped “scrunched” cotton, with black topstitching and black snaps.  Variations,  sleeve tabs, motif ironed onto pocket, double breast pockets, curved pocket flaps, snap closure throughout, curved lower hemline.

Version eleven; for Sam, black and white check “scrunched” cotton, black topstitching, silver snaps.  Variations, short sleeves with a little tab with snap closure on the edge of the sleeve hem.  Shoulder tabs with snap closure.  Pocket motif.  Bias cut double breast pockets, bias cut (but the opposite way) arrownhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.

Version twelve; for Craig, blue shot cotton, rusty red topstitching and buttons. Variations, short sleeved summer-y version, buttons on sleeve ends, double breast pockets, flattish arrowhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.

Version thirteen; for Sam, navy blue corduroy, navy topstitching, brown snaps.  Variations, made it a tad bigger and longer and out of corduroy to make a jacket-y thing. Double breast pockets, deep arrowhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.  Contrasting beige cotton for lining the collar stand, pocket flaps and pockets.  Copied some very cool double hip pockets here that I had seen on a jacket in the surf shop.  Both my boys love these jackets btw!

Version fourteen; for Tim, beige corduroy, brown topstitching (a mistake, should have chosen matching thread…), brown snaps.  Variations, as above, with the double hip pocket thing.  Contrasting blue linen for lining the collar stand, pocket flaps and pockets.

Version fifteen; not surprisingly, I have another one cut out and awaiting my attention!  This one for me.  Stay tuned for this next one…

I hope you’ve enjoyed this little overview of the very versatile Burda 7767, and can appreciate why it is one of my favourite go-to’s!

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Tim’s shirt/jacket

Here is the shirt/jacket thingy that I made for Tim for a birthday gift… it is very similar to Sam’s here, but using a grey/beige, thin but warm, corduroy and a (leftover) contrasting dark blue/grey cotton linen for the lining of each of the collar stand, yoke, welt pockets and pocket flaps. 
I used the same ol’ Burda 7767 that is now my standby go-to men’s button-up shirt pattern, almost lost count of the number of times I’ve used it now  (just went back and checked… 14 times!)  Hehe, Myrna suggested I do an overview of different ways in which I’ve used the same pattern to get different garments, and I think this pattern might be a prime candidate, along with my all-time favourite Vogue 7303… but not until I’ve given this shirt/jacket thing its very own post here…
Variations to the pattern; 
well, apart from the obvious customised fitting to Tim’s measurements modifications I implemented the following:
1.  lengthened the fronts and back by about 6-7cm, to get a more coat or jacket like effect and curved the hemline up to each of the side seams to get that shirt-tail effect both front and back…
2. added two breast pockets with curved flaps
3. added two of those double pockets at hip height… pockets that are separately a welt pocket and are also a patch pocket (you can tell, I was pretty thrilled with how these turned out on Sam’s jacket and Tim thought they were tres cool as well, so I just had to put them on his too!)  my tutorial for doing these double pockets is here.
4. used snaps throughout in lieu of buttons.  
Little anecdote; I had nearly finished this jacket – bar putting the snaps in, and by this time Tim knew very well that I was making this for him (well, I do make them something for each of their birthdays…. he was expecting it) and he wanted to wear it out to a friend’s place that night.  Of course the snaps seems like the easy quick bit and I’m like, oh hang on, shouldn’t take more than twenty minutes.  Like, well over an hour later….  hehe, SO putting in snaps does take a fair bit of time, if you are trying to be careful about placement that is and not just flying along recklessly… but he did get to wear it out, even if he was (fashionably) late!
In an unthinking moment, I selected contrasting thread to topstitch, that matched the tobacco brown snaps exactly.  Bad idea!  I adore corduroy and have used it countless times, but looking back I have always selected matching topstitching thread.  In hindsight I can see the wisdom of that (even though it was ignorant wisdom…); corduroy by its very nature does not take super well to military-precisioned topstitching, all those furry velvety little ridges, bless them, are an enemy to the topstitching perfectionist.  Moral of the story; always, but always go with matching topstitching thread on corduroy, unless uneven lines are not going to send you spare.  The good news is that Tim, being an easy-going bloke, is OK with it.  It is just something to bother me whenever I have occasion to, say, hang it up on the line and get to see those slightly-darker-therefore-blindinglyobvious wonky lines all over again (grrr…)

At left; contrasting lining: at right; the double welt/patch pockets at hip level, complete with hideous topstitching

Because of the intensity that was me-made June, it may appear I haven’t done much sewing in the last month… actually I have still been sewing and have produced some new things.  For some reason I felt I didn’t want to do postings of any new stuff during that month, so I have kept some things back.  Well, OK I did reveal some new things, a little grey top, and the new scarf… oh, OK then.  There was a smattering of minor-league new stuff, hehe.  And some old stuff that was discovered in my winter sort-out.  But, back to the subject, I do have some new creations to reveal.  Just have to muster some enthusiasm to get back in front of the camera again… you understand.

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Sam’s shirt/jacket

So I finished off the pockets on Sam’s birthday shirt/jacket last night, and did take those few snaps of the pockets to show here because I was so happy at how they turned out, but the light was not great for taking a photo of Sam modelling the whole thing.  So now it is, and I have.
It is made out of thin navy blue non-stretchy corduroy, using the old favourite Burda 7767 with a few modifications… the addition of two breast pockets with arrow head flaps, and the double welt/patch pockets I showed you yesterday.  And a curved hemline.  And I used brown snaps instead of buttons.  The collar facing, yoke facing, flap facings and welt pocket lining are all in a contrasting cotton, woven in a tiny plaid design of beige and black.
So here’s the thing…  I don’t know if it qualifies as a shirt or a jacket, or both.
It is made using a shirt pattern, and can be happily worn buttoned (snapped?) up and on its own… thus earning itself a “shirt” label.  
But also; being made of sturdy corduroy fabric, and also wearable unbuttoned and open over other shirts with his hands shoved in the pockets, it comes off as kinda jacket-style… thus attaining “jacket” status.
A hybrid.  
There must be a name to properly describe garments like this without having to resort to the hyphenated.

my tutorial for doing those combination welt/patch pockets just below
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Smoky short sleeved mens’ shirt

I made for my husband another shirt using the Kaffe Fasset shot cotton from purl soho.  This fabric is so wonderful to work with I’ve considered a few times sneaking off with it to make myself something instead of for him… but that would not be playing fair, right?  This fabric was bought with shirts for Craig in mind, and I must stick with my original good intentions.  No matter how fabulous it is… sigh
The name of this colour is Smoky; and has a deep purply blue warp and a lighter periwinkle/baby blue weft.  I’ve put in a picture showing the different threads below, because I know everyone is totally and completely fascinated with fabric and its composition and loves to get up close and personal …. no? er, that is just me then…hehe
This shot cotton is very light and almost sheer, and is perfect for mens’ summer shirts.  I often feel sorry for men in the heat of summer, they have to wear shorts or trousers, and don’t get the option of floaty unfitted dresses like us girls, which are so much cooler.  I know for myself when the temperature is brutally high I almost can’t bear the thought of a constricting waistband, trapping in the heat and suffocating my body.  This fabric is light and breezy and just gorgeous.  And a dream to work with.
I made this shirt using Burda 7767.  I’ve used this pattern so many times now it is practically a sloper, whatever that is.   Such a strange word, yes?  
There are not many variations introduced into the pattern this time, it is a pretty basic effort.  There are two breast pockets with flaps, and the sleeves have been shortened.  Of course, the shortening of the sleeves makes for a heaps easier construction, not to mention a decent amount of leftovers that I might manage to get some little thing out of for me!  The lower hemline is curved.  This can be quite difficult to do with some wovens but not so much with this great fabric.  I think the looseness of the weave is just enough so it has a very slight stretch to it, making a double foldover hem around those curved edges not so much of a problem.
I used up some leftover thread (from my rusty corduroy jeans) to stitch this.  Plain mens shirts look great with contrasting topstitching, and I adore the vibrancy of this strong tomato red against the dull denim-y blue!  I was also lucky enough to find the perfect buttons.  There is one sewn decoratively on the outside of each sleeve hem for a bit of interest.  Also there is a buttonhole on each of the collar ends, but this is purely decorative and has no button, nor is it even cut open.  This is just a casual shirt, but I like these echoes of businesswear details on a casual shirt sometimes.
(btw, about the headless shots?  sometimes he gets shy and requests this….)

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767, with minor fitting and design modifications, shot cotton

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