Tag Archives: Cloth Habit

palest grey/green set

A new lingerie set…
Patterns; bra is the Watson, by cloth habit; the longline version, and the ultra-cute knickers; which appear superficially like ginormous granny-knickers on the flat but seriously, they’re adorable on! are Tanga, a free pattern downloadable from Burda.
Fabrics; I’ve wanted an all-lace set and bought this lovely green lace aaaaaages ago, gathered all the bits and bobs and cut out the pieces; and then we were going away, I shoved the whole shebang in a bag and forgot about it.  Doh!  Imagine my delight when recently I found it again…  woot! I got cracking and finished it off.
Palest of the pale, grey/green lace, white shoulder strap elastic, rings and sliders; Homecraft Textiles.  Picot elastic, beige jersey lining; Fabulous Fabrics.  Satin ribbon; scraps found in stash, as old as the hills.

Thoughts; so this is my second Watson bra, the first longline … I LOVE the look of it, well duh, LAAAACE!!!  so that’s a plus.  A surprise downside is the much wider hook and eye closure is SO MUCH HARDER for me to do up and undo.  I didn’t expect that! but probably should have… the thing is; I’ve only ever used a two hook closure up until now, meaning that it’s second nature to me and my hands automatically operate the 2-hooks easily and breezily.  A 3-hook is like a whole new brain pattern which my hands have never learned and I’m fumbling away, almost like I’ve never worn a bra before in my life… well, you know what they say about old dogs and new tricks.  I’m tempted to think that for a soft, longline style like this I might even prefer my funny, basic little pull-on camisole bralette, simple and easy, save myself the trouble and expense of the hook and eye closure and the style still works perfectly fine for my likes and meagre needs.
I’m still going to wear this new set to bits obviously! just an observation.

previous Watson bra

Also, the back elastics; with the Watson you’re supposed to commence sewing them horizontally along the back from the centre back and they continue on, curving up and over the shoulders to become the shoulder straps, as pictured above.  Now I don’t know if anyone else has come up with this problem too; but when I’m wearing it, the elastic does not sit flat against your body, but instead “folds” around the corner and so forms a little lumpy bump as it does so.  These bumps can just be seen in the above picture, at the sharpest point of the curve where it starts being a strap.  It’s a small thing but a little annoying nonetheless.  SO, for this version I cut and sewed the back elastic and shoulder strap elastic on as two separate pieces.  Not quite as smart looking, but the bump problem is solved so I’m not stressing over it.

The last time I made Tanga undies I discovered what a bad bad bad idea it was to situate a longitudinal seam in the crotch area … worst design concept, evah! anyway, I wrote about how I fixed that first pair by cutting out a new, seamless crotch using the liner piece.  SO MUCH BETTER, and I did the same for this pair too.  I cut two lengths of 5mm elastic to be 10% shorter than the side edges and zig-zagged it along the edges, between the lace and beige jersey liner.  I know from experience that this is about 1000000 times more comfortable than to do it like the pattern tells you.

I used beige jersey to line the bra cups and knickers liner as well as to partially line inside the front of the knickers.  This was cut using my rotary cutter to achieve sharp and clean-cut edges, and is simply zig-zagged down inside the lace.  This stuff is a very good match to my skin colour so it was such a great find!  Note to self; remember to keep checking Fabulous Fabrics to see if they get any more in stock…
Having a lining also helps to hide the seams, because I treated it like an underlining; the lace/linings seams are inside the garments and not between the layers.   I LOVE having the neatest insides possible but sometimes you just have to sacrifice the insides for the outsides, haha.
I know, weird, right?  Who even does that?!!

felled seams inside (L) undies and (R) bra cups

I faux-felled all the seams on the inside, by stitching them down lightly and trimming the raw edges close to the stitching.  This is not as neat overall than if they were sandwiched between the layers but looks much better from the right side, with no seam allowances visible through the holes of the lace.
To stabilise the cup edges, I stitched short lengths of satin ribbon along the jersey edge inside.

 

btw; that is the stock picture of the Tanga knickers above right.  It makes me slightly anxious every time I look at it… however don’t let the non-pattern matching distract you, this is a cute pattern which is free and available to all; and that’s the important thing here!

Now for some housekeeping… dk’s wife, could you please email me regarding the hedgehog pattern? thanks.  🙂
Also, I’ve received lots of emails from kind readers letting me know that commenting is working only rarely on my blog… I’m so sorry!  🙁  Like everyone, I love comments! so please know, I am working on a site update to fix the problem.  It may take a short while though since I’m a complete computer dummy, but I am on it!

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mocha set

…  for me!
Fabric; slithery, slinky-malinki poly knit from Fabulous Fabrics in a divinely luxuriously glossy mocha shade; all elastic and other findings from Homecraft Textiles.  I wanted to make a Sierra bra for myself too; and while I love lace-y underthingies, this time I went for smooth, sleek and sophisticated, with a grownup vibe more befitting to an ancient old crone such as myself.
Haha, no really, I do have a nice selection of frillies already and just wanted a change of pace  🙂
Features; none.  Letting the fabric glow on its own with absolutely nil embellishment.
LOVE this unadorned look, I mean I adore pretty bits and bobs too but sometimes the simplest and plainest of styles in a sophisticated colour and liquid-y fabric like this feels just as gorgeous!

Technical blahdy-blah: I cut two backs, clean finished the seams within the layers, and also lined the front/cups with self fabric to about centre front.  I just left the lining CF straight edge floating unfinished on the inside; it’s not going to fray or anything and doesn’t show up at all.  The remainder of the fronts/straps are single layered.  The lower edge is finished with elastic, folded under and zig-zagged on the right side, just the same finish as the top edges and all edges of the knickers (as pictured below).  I cut the elastic 7% shorter than the edge it was to be attached to, measuring the paper pattern pieces.
That black hook and eye tape at the back is bothering me, but well, colour options here are pretty limited.  I’ve found Homecraft Textiles to have the absolute best array of lingerie elastics to be found in Perth.  Well worth hitting up.
2x pairs of undies, both super plain Watson briefs.  Boring and barely worth a photo… close-up for elastic-attachment detail purposes only.

Full set: so normally I love my things to be photographed looking artfully arranged to best show them off but couldn’t resist going the full Merchant and Mills here.

artistic dishevelment and not a randomly chucked down pile of clothes at all 

What is that aesthetic anyway? just kind of throw it down in a messed up crumpled heap on the floor, y’know? just like when your teenagers kick their grotty clothes aside as they step into the shower or something, and leave them there.  For days, if you don’t nag gently point it out.
*deep breath*
Embrace the crumple.  
Feel the crumple.  
BE.  The crumple.

Hehe, not to diss Merchant and Mills! I actually have the workbook myself… a recent birthday pressie, and heavy hints had nothing to do with it at all! *cough cough* and I love a lot of the stuff in it!  Just that the screwed-up-and abandoned-on-the-floor thing cracks me up.  The new cool… OK!
Actually, my clothing is more usually kept like below…  
Aaaah, that’s better!  *sigh of contended happiness*  ooo, did someone say neat freak?  Order and method, my friends.  Order and method:)

Happiness factor; plain, but supremely happy with that plainness, and I love the wraparound bra style; it’s nice to have something a bit different.  Construction, smooth sailing all the way.  For visual purposes I’m deducting one point for the black hook and eyes at the back.  9/10  🙂

Details:
Bra; the Sierra by Madalynne, free to download here
Knickers; the Watson briefs by Cloth Habit.

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pink lace Sierra + Watsons

OK, so I couldn’t resist downloading Madalynne’s free bralette pattern the Sierra and giving it a go!  Plus I made the usual two pairs of matching knickers to go with it.  These are both the Watson knickers, by Cloth Habit.
Fabrics; pink bamboo knit and pink, slightly glittery, lace from Fabulous Fabrics, all elastics and other findings from Homecraft Textiles
I made this set for Cassie.  I bought materials to make a Sierra and Watson set for me too, but mine is quite different in style.

 The Sierra bra is a really cute and interesting design for smaller chested ladies, and is something a bit different in a bra design, which I like.  Well, we all love a bit of variety, yes?  It looks kinda complex on, but it’s really a fairly straightforward, wraparound bra; and for a simple soft bra with no shaping or obvious support, does feel nicely secure and snug when worn.  And did I mention; it’s freeeeeeeeee!

Cassie chose the fabrics, including that pink lace.  That lace!  Looks so pretty and girlishly innocent and totes adorbs, right?!
Well, so did that kid in the Exorcist, just saying… and unpicking fine-grade slinky stretchy bamboo knit away from delicate lace; tendril by freaking tendril is NOT the joyous meditative pastime to sake and soothe your soul like you want your hobbies to be.
Initially I intended to have the two fabrics entirely overlaid for the whole set, like the bra, and the bra went together really well.  Then I made a pair of knickers with the two overlaid like that.   The lace then showed itself to be completely wrong for knickers.  It was such an ordeal and they looked so hideous that I was just too depressed to even bother salvaging any of it…  that got emotionally binned, and I had to walk out to eat chocolate and sulk in front of the TV for an evening.  
Went back to it the next morning with renewed vigour.  Did think about not having any lace on the knickers at all.   But she wanted it to be a nice cohesive set, so some lace had appear somewhere, and it’s all worked out, I think.  I like the knickers to match the bra but still be different to it, like this.

There’s nowhere to put a little decorative bow on the bra, part from just below the shoulder straps like this, and I actually love it! my favourite bit of the bra.  It’s also a nice way to hide the stitching of bra cup-to-ring.  I sewed the bra shoulder straps as two regular ones rather than halter; but she’s thinking about that.  If she decides she wants the halter I’m gonna change it, because I think the halter is a lot easier to put on in this design. Update; yep, changed it to halter…

I think the set did eventually turn out very nice and the bra looks really cute on.  Cassie is happy so I’m happy.  Well, I’m happy now it’s finished.
Happiness factor; well the memory of those failed knickers hasn’t faded away completely, so I’m awarding this project 5/10 overall.  It’s gone up since yesterday, believe me!

Bra; the Sierra by Madalynne, free to download here
Knickers; the Watson by Cloth Habit

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Lace-y bralette + undies

I’ve made a new lingerie set and I think it turned out quite noice.  
This little soft bralette design has been bouncing around in my mental wish-to-make-list for yonks.  It’s more of a pull over the head, lacy camisole than a bra really; and is a near-copy of a Lovable bralette I used to wear donkey’s years ago.  I’ve even kept the original one tucked away in a drawer, just to try to reproduce it one day.  That day has come, weeeee!  I’m very happy with my copy, even though the lace I used is a bit too wide.  It’s such extraordinarily pretty lace though, so that’s an ok compromise in my book.  
The reason I wanted to make another one for myself is that the original one really was such a nice thing to wear under big loose tops or something a little sheer.  The lace shoulder straps look really pretty if they happen to peep out and don’t really look too much like a “bra”.
Also I wear a lot of white/ivory in summer, so white/beige underthings are always very handy.

It’s super comfortable, and although it doesn’t look particularly supportive, it actually is.  Pictured above on poor long-suffering Bessie, that joining seam appears to cut right across her bust in a most uncomfortable way; however Bessie is actually  bigger than me.  On me the shoulder strap lace comes down and around and sits perfectly moulded underneath my bust and so it’s actually does give a surprisingly good amount of support.   I’m fairly fortunate I guess in that I don’t need much, hehehe… well, hey; there’s got to be some advantages!!

I made the usual two pairs of matching undies to wear with it; at bottom is my old favourite McCalls 2772; above it is the cloth habit Watson knickers, which I also like a lot.  They’re very similar designs, I like wearing both.  The Watson sits lower on the hip and is thus a touch broader in the beam; the McCalls sits at high hip and is is actually cut a bit slimmer.  I added some lace scraps to the fronts for decoration and bravely snipped away the poly-knit from behind; something I haven’t done before.

Fabric notes: Clotted cream poly-knit and gold satin ribbon from Spotlight; my hand hovered over the ivory ribbon but on the spur of the moment I honed in on gold!  I love how it gleams quietly and luxuriously against cream and ivory.  
Ivory stretch lace and lingerie elastic from Fabulous Fabrics.  This lace is 8cm wide, and yes; it works fine and is super pretty.  I mean, no way was I going to walk away and leave that in the store!!!  However my original bralette had considerably narrower lace, 5cm.  I still need to keep my eye out for some 5cm lace so I can someday have another go at that perfect reproduction.  I think the ideal combination would be 5cm wide lace for the straps and 8cm lace for the cups.  But it’s hard enough finding lovely stretch lace even in plain black and/or white/ivory here, let alone specific widths, and in matching colours!  The search continues… 🙂

bralette; copied from an old Lovable design
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Watson lingerie set in sand cotton jersey

I just could not resist buying Watson, the new lingerie pattern designed by Amy of Cloth Habit.  Yes, I have a few lingerie patterns now, but a few points of difference with this one allowed me to talk myself into buying a new one.  Quite easily, as a matter of fact!  I’ve always admired Amy’s beautiful creations and so adding her new pattern to my collection was always going to happen  🙂
I used a sand-coloured cotton jersey, (the Morrison remnant sale), lining the bra cups and cradle with soft, sand-coloured rayon stretch (Fabulous Fabrics), pretty scalloped-edge lingerie elastic (Fabulous Fabrics) and plush elastic for the bra straps (Homecraft Textiles).
The pattern is for a simple, soft cup bra, in either longline or regular length, with no provision for underwires, and a bikini brief.  Obviously I had to make both! and made my usual two pairs of matching knickers to go with my bra.
So, I have several thoughts about the Watson pattern…
Firstly and most importantly, I really love my new bra! I very much like the clean and modern line, the simplicity of the cut.  It looks really cute on and for my size the fitting and drafting is spot on.  I chose to make the longer line option, and am very pleased with it.  Usually I go for a padded, underwire bra, but it’s nice to have different options in the undies drawer.
I chose to line both my bra band and cups for two reasons; firstly because I prefer the cups to be a slightly thick and padded anyway; and secondly; because the way the bra is constructed inevitably means all the seam allowances on the inside are exposed.  That’s unavoidable in having a pieced cup in a single layer of fabric.  However I usually like for my insides to be just as pretty as the outsides, and so I cut cup linings and worked out a way to construct it so that all the seam allowances are tucked neatly out of sight between the outer and lining layers.

1. Do not baste the lining to cradle as the first step; instead sew the side seam so that the back band is sandwiched between the cradle and its lining.
2. Sew all pairs of outer and upper cup pieces together, also for cup linings.  Baste the cups to their corresponding lining cups all around, wrong sides together.
3.  Turn the cradle inside out, so you can sew the cups to the cradle, sandwiching the cups, right sides together, between the cradle and its lining piece.  This means that all seam allowances will be inside the cradle.
4.  Sew the lingerie elastic to the top and lower edges as normal.
5. hey presto! all the seam allowances are nicely tucked away!

The white scalloped lingerie elastic from Fabulous Fabrics is very pretty and makes a really lovely edging; however, I thought it a little flimsy to use along the lower edge of the bra, which is a more “demanding” edge and requires a slightly thicker, heavier duty elastic.  So I used my regular Birch’s lingerie elastic just for the lower edge of the bra.

A small complaint about the pattern: I had to do a bit of detective work to determine the lengths of elastic required because unfortunately they do not seem to be included in the pattern.  I searched and searched and could find absolutely no clue in the instructions as to how long I was to cut my elastic pieces!  Nor the straps!  Strange.  So I dug out my KwikSew 3300 bra pattern to measure the strap piece, and also checked out the tables in it for a guide as to how long I should cut the lingerie elastic for the Watson bra edges.  Luckily, the KwikSew pattern has terrifically helpful tables outlining exactly how long you should cut your elastic, for each size.  Thank goodness for that!
Same story for the undies; I had to get out my McCalls 2772 bikini pattern and measured the waist and leg elastic guide pieces and used these same lengths for these knickers too.
I’ve now jotted down on my Watson instructions all these elastic lengths I need so I don’t have to go looking for them again.  Because I’m sure there will be more Watsons in my life.  🙂
Ok I only have one more complaint, and that is that metric measurements are missing from the instructions.  Yes, I can convert them myself, and I have, for future reference, and noted them down directly onto my copy.  But it would have been helpful to have them included in the pattern.  Along with those elastic lengths.

The bikini brief undies are plain and simple little things, definitely my style.  I only realised upon viewing the pattern pieces that there is a horizontal joining seam right across the front of the crotch, with open seam allowances on the inside.   I wanted mine without a seam, so I spliced my front and crotch pattern pieces together and cut the front as one piece, and then cut one separate crotch lining piece from white cotton jersey.  This is sandwiched between the back and front pieces when joining together, so that all seams allowances are nicely tucked away inside.  This is the same method I learnt from my regular McCalls 2772 bikini pattern, and so I know it gives a nice comfortable result.  And no unsightly seam!

I’m very happy with the new set!  It is so comfortable, also the colour alone means I’m guaranteed to wear these a tonne.  I was actually pretty desperate for this set… yes, sounds needlessly dramatic, but I have tonnes of white dresses and shirts.  Which I favour.  Meaning my white/colourless lingerie gets more wear and tear than the colourful stuff and as the lingerie drawer gets weeded out it’s looking a bit too colourful in there lately.  Clearly I have been extremely bad at planning and keeping up with lingerie requirements.
But now, I’m on it!  Stay tuned for another exciting episode of Watson, coming soon to this station.  Featuring some luvverly lace, mmmmm  🙂

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