Tag Archives: Own Design

a special lace dress

hello!  Recently my lovely niece J married her long-time man and so of course I had to make a new dress for myself for the occasion…  I was vaguely toying with the idea of shopping for fabric before I remembered two things: 1. as everyone in our family knows, J’s favourite colour is famously yellow, and 2.  I have a piece of very yellow, and happily wedding worthy fabric in my stash already!

 

I bought this neon-bright yellow guipure lace from Mood Fabrics in New York City back in 2019, when I was over there with my friend Yoshimi… we met with other sewing ladies and they took us on a fabulous fabric shopping spree!  Such fun.  I wrote about it on my blog here…  Originally I had envisioned making a little mini skirt from the lace but when the fabric was rolled out on the counter it turned out there was a pretty large chunk of the border cut out, so the salesperson basically threw that part of the fabric in for free.  Meaning, I ended up with a lot longer length than I had needed.  And obviously I couldn’t waste the extra bit by making that little mini, so it sat, awaiting some other project that could make use of it.Et voila!

I used the Closet Core Ceilo pattern with a few small modifications… namely; spicing the back yoke and back pieces together to eliminate that seam, including inseam pockets in the side seams,  and I also cut it to be a bit more flared.  Oh, and I also traced a size up  – or maybe two? can’t remember now – for that fashionable oversized look.  The hemline, which is of course the natural border of the lace, was determined by how much length I could get, and I also managed to get the sleeves on a border.  It only took a little bit of pattern Tetris but I’m thrilled that I achieved what is one of my primary aims with any sewing project, which is to have minimal leftovers!

My dress is underlined completely with a pinkish/coffee coloured silk chartreuse that I bought from Fabulous Fabrics originally.  I basted the lace and silk layers together within the seam allowance all around except for the side seams below the pockets, and then overlocked the edges before continuing to treat the two layers as one.  The side seams below the pockets I stitched the layers separately and actually the lace is arranged so there’s not a “seam” in this part, but the lace motifs are arranged and hand stitched carefully so you can’t see a seam here.

I cut the pockets and neckline facings from a natural cotton linen that I’ve had in the stash for years, saved specifically for this same sort of purpose.

I chose this because the silk charmeuse wasn’t going to be stable enough in these areas – actually the lace is very heavy, far heavier than it looks!  I cut the lace front and back to have side seam extensions along the pocket area and stitched it down carefully to the pockets inside.  So, when you’re wearing the dress the lace appears to go all the way inside the pockets, no flash of offensive beige to be seen, so it looks really nice.

The seams allowances around the neckline, especially the shoulder seam area here are seriously bulky, and I trimmed, clipped and understitched aggressively to get everything to sit nice and flat!  I also went back later and stitched the facing to the silk underlining as far around and as close as I could get to the shoulder seams.

I’m including a picture of the happy couple because, although I did not make the dress, I did alter it to fit her and also did some minor repairs.  This took three separate fittings and I took precisely zero photos of the process or anything.  My only excuse is that I was also working on my own dress and stressing a little bit that I wasn’t going to get it all done on time.

Thanks to its oversized and loose nature, my dress was so comfy to wear and to dance in, and I was so happy about that!  and just saying, I only wore these high heeled sandals for the ceremony and photos.  For the reception on the same property I went to our car and switched over to my white sandshoes with little socks, brought for this very purpose.  Much warmer, and fabulously comfortable for dancing!  I also wore my new pink wool Sienna jacket for the cooler temperatures that came as evening fell too, but no pictures of that I’m afraid. Anyway, I hope I can get more use our of this dress, which actually turned out more lovely than I thought.  🙂

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colour-blocked Mimi and golden chain-mail

hello!  I’ve made a new/old blouse for myself… I’ve always enjoyed the challenge of using old textiles PLUS I’ve also always loved patchwork and mixed-prints in clothing so obviously this new blouse is certain to become a favourite!  why?  because the fabric is salvaged from three well-loved old shirts of my husband’s… I really liked each of these shirts when he was wearing them, so when he decided they were too worn to be worn any more (hehe) I packed them away to be refashioned one day.

I know it seems weird and silly to use three whole mens’ shirts to make just one woman’s shirt…  like an exceptionally inefficient use of resources really! however there really were so many bits of each shirt that could not be used because of holes, stains, or threadbare patches that I had no choice.  I was on a rescue mission!

The pattern is one of the newly release patterns from Fibremood, the Mimi blouse. Such a quick and simple thing to make!  Especially coming hot on the heels of two jackets, ahem.  It was nice to be an able to whip up something without having to think too much!

The pattern actually has the button and buttonhole bands cut on, so my use of the third contrasting fabric is an alteration really.  I did have to do a bit of calculation to get this to work out well.  I was seriously worried I wouldn’t have enough of the yellow fabric but thank goodness I did in the end.  Another issue was cutting the lower front panels… I had to join some pieces together to get a piece big enough you might be able to see the joining seams on both of those sections of my new shirt.  The sleeves also have joining seams that I did my best to make reasonably unobtrusive.

I’m wearing my new shirt in the above pictures with a pieced denim skirt I made last year using old jeans and our own Meelup skirt pattern, plus a number of superfluous pockets, making this outfit a wholly recycled-fabric ensemble.  I really love this skirt too! it used to be quite a bit paler in colour and I overdyed it blue while I was dying something else one day.  Oh, I remember it was this skirt...

Something else I’ve made recently was a “golden chain mail” tunic for my middle grandson T for his book week costume.  Doesn’t he look amazing?!  He wanted to be Tom of the Beast Quest series.  I was only commissioned to make the tunic, and my clever daughter Cassie made the rest of his costume including that amazing helmet.  Theo made his own shield!

I used the measurements from an oversized T-shirt he already had, and bought the golden sparkly remnant from Spotlight.  It was very cheap but is actually quite nice stuff … I have a little bit left over and am wondering what I can use this for?!

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some new things…

hello!  I’ve made some new things recently… firstly, some new winter pyjamas. 🙂

I used my usual Closet Core patterns Carolyn pattern for the bottoms, and for the top I used a pattern adapted from a Burda pattern, just a basic loose top with cut-on sleeves.  I went to Spotlight and bought 1.5m coral pink, 0.5m navy blue and 1.0m white cotton flannelette…  and right now I have to make a stern warning to future me; THIS IS NOT ENOUGH FABRIC TO MAKE A PAIR OF WINTER PYJAMAS.  Well, to be more specific, it CAN BE enough fabric, but only if one is prepared do lots of careful measuring, careful cutting and careful piecing to use as much of the fabric as is humanly possible.  And there will be practically zero fabric by the end of it.

I mean, this is a good thing, right?  Reducing waste?  To answer myself, yes it is, and I enjoyed the technicalities of the process and pretty proud I managed to use practically all of it, however this normally very simple project turned into a bit of an epic journey.  I think it’s ok to admit that it’s not necessary to virtuously use “all your fabric” when you make something.

I realised I had not bought enough fabric once I laid down my pattern pieces, and so had no choice but to cut and piece every single offcut in order to make the pyjama legs as long as I needed, as well as the pyjama top sleeves and body as long as I needed.  It was kind of fun to have the different colours appear as stripes like this too.

All the seams are overlocked on the inside, and all the seams are faux fell-stitched down using white thread on the outside.  I like that all those little bitsy-bits are highlighted like this!

This is the tiny pile of my total leftovers.  Honestly, in the end, “using all the fabric” became such a quest that I slapped on a few superfluous pockets, which is kinda silly really.  It was a fun experiment, but of course it’s a truth that superfluous pockets are not morally superior to throwing away small scraps.  Just saying.

I also made some new clogs!

I used a kit that I bought from Leather Needle Thread, hmm, perhaps a few years ago.  It’s taken me a while to get around to it, yes.  🙂

The colour is black, which of course will be extremely handy .  As much as I love colourful things in my wardrobe, black shoes really are the most useful ones.  As previously, I applied several layers of clear varnish to the clog bases with light sanding in between each coat before making the clogs.  I know the supplier of the clog kits doesn’t recommend this, but I personally have found it an excellent idea with regards to keeping the clogs clean.  Even if you scrupulously wash your feet each time prior to putting on your shoes, you still can’t help but get them a bit dirty, and varnishing the bases really makes the cleaning process a lot more effective.

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“cool bunny” T-shirts

Hello!  For the Easter just gone by I wanted to give something to my three little grandsons… chocolate has been ruled out by the parents and so I had to think of something else.  I decided upon this!  As a teen, my eldest Tim used to have a pink T-shirt with a “cool bunny” printed on it which he absolutely loved.  It was actually a very different print from this one, but with this in mind I googled “cool bunny” and something like this was one of the millions that came up.  I thought it was really cute!

The following is my process… I’d done a screen printing course years ago and so already had all the materials on hand.  Most of my old paints had dried up but fortunately the red and black were ok.  Phew!

I hand-drew the design on tracing paper in lead pencil, then transferred the designs to equally sized pieces of wrapping paper.

Why wrapping paper?  Well, because it’s a little stiff and “waxy” in texture I thought it would last a little longer in the printing process, and hopefully not disintegrate after a few prints.  Yes I could have gone out to buy proper printing paper but I’m still on a “use what I’ve got in the house already” kick.  I’d pre-cut the paper pieces to be the exact same size, in the hopes of being able to overlay the two colours as perfectly as possible.

Using a scalpel, from my shoemaking kit, I cut out the two designs.  I’d also cut out four pieces of white cotton jersey (from stash) big enough for a T-shirt front.  Four pieces? but I only have three grandsons?  well I was accounting for one possibly not working out well since I wasn’t going to easily be able to do all this a second time!  Screenprinting is quite involved!

To help line up the prints, I’d drawn the corners on the white cotton jersey in disappearing ink.  As it turned out, this didn’t work out well at all because the edges of the paper are stuck down to the screen with masking tape which then obviously also masks the corners drawn on the cotton jersey underneath.  So of course you can’t see them.  I mean, duh!  It was actually pretty difficult to line up the screen for the red print afterwards.  I’m going to have to put my thinking cap on for future multi-colour prints.

First print done!

I’d cut the black with little “bridges” to keep the design actually together, so after printing I went over with a paintbrush and carefully filled in the bridges.

Second print!

These are the three that worked pretty well…

and this one did not.  If you can’t see it straight away, just look at the red, inside-the-ears bit, and you can see how skewiff it is compared the the others.  I’ve still got this fabric, and may use it for something else in the future.

Heat set the prints, and then I sewed up the T-shirts.

I used Butterick 5510 for G’s T-shirt above, that I’d used for him previously…

and for A’s and T’s I’d traced around a child’s T-shirt and adapted it to their sizes as well as I could.  I deliberately made them all oversized so they could grow into them, but they did all turn out pretty big.  Fortunately all the boys seem to like them and have worn them, so I’m happy!

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water lily dress, a raincoat, and a stripey shirt

hello!

I’ve been making a few more things lately…

first up; a dress!  I bought this screen printed linen a few years ago from the Injalak Arts Centre, the design is Mandem (Water Lily)  by the indigenous artist Eva Nganjmirra.  The pattern I used is an old favourite by now, Vogue 2900.

 

Something charming about this screenprint, I discovered; was the designer’s “signature” of sorts…of course, I had to carefully cut around this and place it some where semi-prominent.

I decided the pieces had to be highlighted in some way more than just mere seamlines, and utilised a method I have written about previously here… namely this is a bias cut strip that is inlaid over the pieces before joining together.  I had a small length of mustard linen, leftover from this dress, that I used for this purpose.

Unfortunately there wasn’t enough to do every single seam and edge like I have done in previous examples of this method but I just did as many of the more prominent bodice seams before I ran out of it.

I know I’ve used this pattern quite frequently but it really is such a beautiful dress design that I don’t see myself every tiring of it any time soon.  Of course I really should branch out more and I’m resolving to try more new patterns this year and not fall back so often on the old favourites.  In the meantime though, some of my recent as yet unblogged projects have failed this resolution already whoops.

I think my only, somewhat trivial criticism of this design is its lack of shape in the waist area.  I have a pretty high waist to hip ratio that isn’t really suited to this drop-waist design however I still stubbornly persist in wearing it.  Sometimes I think I should try to modify it to look less “boxy” but the bodice pieces are so beautifully proportioned in themselves I’m not really game to fiddle about with it.

 

I wore this along with my me-made mustard clogs out to a meeting with friends recently and managed to grab a quick street shot.  I’ve always liked to get a real world photo the things I’ve made if possible, but it’s sometimes difficult.  If the coast is clear, like this time, I can quickly prop my phone up against my bag on the footpath and take a sneaky timed photo!

My little grandson G randomly ran up to join my while I was taking my more staged photos, which was happily fortuitous since he happened to be wearing a little T-shirt I made for him recently using leftovers from another, s yet unblogged, project to appear here soon.  Once I get my act together!

I used Butterick 5510, a great little pattern that I should probably buy in a bigger size now!  The blue and white striped jersey was tossed out by my friend N during her fabric purge recently.  It’s quite nice stuff, if you don’t mind the suffering that comes with matching stripes in cutting and piecing.  Fortunately I don’t mind this toooooo much.  Maybe just a little, but only if it’s just every now and then.

I lenthened the T-shirt considerably because it’s really way too short otherwise. I don’t know if all my kiddies are just super tall or not but I’ve always found commercial patterns to be ridiculously short and wide.

Please note careful stripe matching.  Oh, another problem with this pattern was the rather small neckline.  After cutting it and subsequently realising it was actually pretty tiny, I recut the neckline, cut some extra neckline edging and pieced it.  One join is pretty good, the other less so… I’m pointing the two out here.  Hopefully they’re not too terrible!  I’m pretty sure G doesn’t mind though, and at least it fits over his head!

I also some leftover raincoat fabric from when I made my sister in law Sandi’s Mundering raincoat, back here; so I drafted and ran up a new raincoat for T.  He’s grown out of his yellow one, blogged here, which will be passed on to G this year.  I lined it with the breathable sporting fabric, a length of which I bought for raincoat vents years ago.  The zip, cord and eyelets happened to be in my stash already too, hurrah.

 

The pockets are just patch pockets. All seams are sealed on the underside using seam sealing wax that I bought for this purpose years ago from the camping and outdoor outfitter store, BCF.

I think he likes it!  He looks pretty cute in it anyway, and I think it turned out a pretty good fit considering I drafted it just using one of his T-shirts.  Phew!

 

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Why do I sew with striped fabrics?!

rhetorical question, don’t mind me.  I actually love stripes, even though when I do sew with them I feel inextricably compelled to pin each and every stripe. It’s ok. A small amount of suffering is acceptable when it leads to nice things.

Anyway,  I made a new outfit for myself, in anticipation of the slightly cooler weather that heralds the onset of autumn, hurrah.  The fabric is a really nice, crisp, slightly crinkly, and reassuringly sturdy ticking striped cotton, ivory with steel blue stripes, and a silver thread running through.  I bought it years ago from Fabulous Fabrics, and it’s been one of those lengths of fabric that I’ve “saved” for really a nice project, one far off day. It’s always a lovely thing when that far off day finally dawns.

For the top, I used the new Fibremood Kristy pattern, a smart top with big patch pockets with arrowhead flaps, and a nice shaped collar, with the most rudimentary of collar stands.

I lengthened the sleeves by several inches so I could turn up a cuff, and I love how this looks.  There’s double topstitching just about everywhere although it doesn’t stand out since I used matching ivory thread, but you do pick it up subconsciously.

My skirt is, of course, our own Meelup skirt pattern.  I do feel a bit bad about my possible overuse of this pattern and have decided I really need to branch out a bit with regard to skirt patterns, well, ALL patterns really, but it really does tick all my boxes so well.  Maybe I’ll limit myself to just one of a pattern per year?  worth a thought!

I lined the skirt with ivory poly acetate lining fabric, also from stash.  This adds a bit of necessary body to the skirt too, making it nicer to wear.  In fact, the whole outfit is very comfy, and happily has a certain subtle chic afforded by the details on the Kristy top; I really love it a lot.

I also ran up an adorable little pair of shorts for my littlest grandchild G, using the very last of the leftover “public pool” cotton drill fabric designed by his mother, which I bought from her Spoonflower shop, here.

 

 The pattern I used is Butterick 5510, size M.  This is the biggest size in the envelope, so I’ve realised I need to use it a few more times, and quickly too, before G grows out of it!  I’d almost forgotten how much fun children’s clothes are to make, so quick and easy compared to adult clothes.  I traced out the pattern and finished the shorts in about an hour, tops!

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black/white striped jumper

hurrah! I’ve just finished my knitted project for December, aka the last monthly knit for the year! and possibly the last made thing for the year, depends whether I can get my already cut-out thing done in the next day or so.  🙂

I have to admit I was quite excited about this one, but it was definitely the most time consuming of the knitted projects for the year, just because it’s the biggest that I started from scratch…  I had quite a diverse collection of random whites/creams and blacks/charcoal and decided to attempt the classic black and white stripes.  There was quite a lot more of the whites than black so the white stripes are a shade wider than the black ones.  Also the sleeve and bottom hem sections are in the white colour way too.  There is just a very tiny amount of leftovers, nothing to speak of really, which makes me pretty happy.

As previously I made the design up myself, it’s a topdown, knitted-in-one piece, just like my pink jumper from August previously, with a raglan sleeve increase.  The only difference really is that I knitted a rib finish for the edges so they don’t curl up, unlike the pink jumper which was stocking stitch throughout, thus the edges curl up on that one.

 

Speaking of the rib finish, I tried something new I’d seen on instagram, and I’m truly sorry I cannot for the life of me remember who it was who posted it so I can’t give credit for the idea.  Basically, they said that rib is often uneven in appearance and that’s due to the difference in the way the wool goes around the needle in knit and purl stitches.  They suggested the following; for knit stitches, knit through the back of the loop… and for purl stitches, wrap the wool clockwise around the needle – which is the opposite from normal.  Apparently it uses a little less wool, anyway I gave it a go and I think the rib does look a little bit neater than my usual efforts.

I’m really happy with this one!  the classic white/black stripes will be so easy to wear and I’m looking forward to giving it lots of outings in winter.  I was a little worried about the bobbly cream coloured wool – are the bobbles going to be too hideous?!  scary!  but in the end they’re not twee to an unbearable extent and I’m ok to just let them be.

In case you’re curious, is it too hot right now to be wearing it on the beach like this? and the answer is of course YES.  aah, the things I do…!  I actually wore just a light top, carrying the jumper in my beach bag and popped it on briefly for the picture, and it was still enough to make me question my life choices!

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green and blue scrappy jumper

 

hello!  I’ve knitted a new jumper, from that big inherited bag of scraps and leftovers that has stymied my dreams of a minimalist, streamlined stash for quite a long time now…  I’m trying to make a project a month and this little number is actually October’s project.

 

It’s a bit late, but of course a jumper is quite an involved project and I’ve knitted two jumpers in as many months now, phew.  I’m trying very hard to keep up the pace though!

Unlike my jumper from last month, I knitted this one bottom up, and have decided for once and for all that this is far less practical way of knitting something on the fly, when your purpose is to keep on knitting until the yarn is gone.  It’s hard to explain without doing it for yourself.. but essentially you have to cast on for the sleeves, and then pick up those stitches again to continue on the sleeves; which is kinda awkward.  Also, you have less idea about eking out your yarn to last until the neck edge.  And also, I’d started knitting in stocking stitch, and then became dissatisfied with the curly up nature of the lower edge, and had to pick up stitches again to knit a final ribbed edge to the bottom edge.  Of course, these are very minor concerns really; since any project in which you’re trying to eke out set-in-stone quantities of yarns and still end up with a garment that is actually wearable is ALWAYS going have some difficulties.

I didn’t take a picture of the “before” yarns, but actually this project changed shape and form several times during the making and new yarns got added in as I went along.  I’m pretty happy though… because there were about 11 balls/part balls of yarn in all to start with, and now they are all GONE from Le Stash.  I’m particularly pleased with the “turquoise” stripes on the sleeves, which are actually four strands of two different colours of an extremely fine mohair yarn that I had no idea what on earth I could use for anything at all.  The four of them held and knitted together as one turned out to be a reasonably good thickness to actually use.

As I was finishing it and thinking about how I was going to wear it, I was suddenly hit with the certainty that I absolutely needed a long sleeve, white hoodie tee to wear with it.  And since I sew, I was happily able to immediately acquire such a thing, with no need to go shopping.

I used our own Carolyn & Cassie Pinjarra pattern, the high necked top version.  I cut a size bigger than my usual for a loose fit, and cut a hoodie piece to fit the neckline length.  I also added a few inches of length to the bottom edge, again for that loose look.  It was a pretty easy hack of our own pattern!  so easy that I wondered for a little bit whether we should draft the hood up and add it to the pattern.

I’m wearing them both here; at top with my Closet Core Patterns Ginger jeans, and then with my long term favourite Closet Core Patterns Sasha trousers… I really need to make some new ones of this great pattern!

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