Tag Archives: Craig

Menswear: collarless white linen shirt

I made this new 100% linen shirt for my husband, at his request.
Using Burda 7767 again, with the usual custom fitting modifications.
The design variations this time are in the collar, there isn’t one!!  And in the pocket.  I made a double welt pocket with a loop button closure.  I included a picture of the inside to prove that it is indeed a working pocket!  A clothing feature that I loathe is “fake” pocket designs, such as a welt pocket that isn’t actually a pocket at all, but a decorative detail; massive pet hate.
Of course now I’m looking at that picture and thinking I should go back and properly finish the inside pocket edges with Hong Kong seams… might still do that…  I’ve never “learnt” how to make a welt pocket, or followed any instructions on how to make one, as I don’t have any patterns that feature this detail.  Instead whenever I’ve wanted to put one in I just follow my instincts and make it up as I go along.
Now, on a related note, I occasionally, not frequently, borrow my husband’s clothes.  Well, (sheepishly) he goes to work early, they’re hanging in the wardrobe in all their desirable menswear glory just looking perfect for some outfit I have in my head, and I figure they’re fair game…  This is a shirt I can see myself appropriating on a regular basis.  Well, for one thing, all the fashion style magazines advise on the essential-ness of “the basic crisp white shirt” in a well-dressed woman’s wardrobe, do you think I have one??!!  I need a classic crisp white shirt.  Until the time comes when I get around to making one for myself (I have about a zillion projects lined up before I get to that one!)  I’m nicking Craig’s new shirt.
Expect to see it in future outfit posts!

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Menswear; linen shirt no. 3

Here is my husband’s new shirt.  It was made using Burda 7767 (again, such a great pattern!) with the fit variations I perfected making the last shirt.  I altered the collar size slightly; the pattern comes with three collar variations and this one is midway between the two smaller options.  I also rounded the pocket and added a pointy arrowhead collar flap.  The other day I saw a man’s shirt with a single welt pocket and a button with a tiny fabric loop; it looked really cool and I’ve filed it away for a future shirt…
The double topstitching here has a slightly different gap this time.  I’m super happy with my topstitching in this version, it’s as close to perfect as I can get it.  Topstitching is a real meditative process; you’re hunched over the machine, eyeballing your first row of stitching and just mentally gauging and controlling that second row at an dead even gap…. almost as good as yoga.  Except yoga you’re supposed to be concentrating on nothing.  And with topstitching you’re full-on concentrating.  OK, not quite the same.  But it’s still kind of the same outcome, a calm stillness in which all other stimuli is blocked out.
Hmm, sewing as a therapeutic meditative tool; yeah, moving right along…
I used linen, part of the batch that I bought online a few months ago.  I chose caramel brown contrasting thread and blotchy brown and cream, tortoise-shelly like buttons as a contrast.  I just love brown and blue together.  I think he will be able to wear this shirt as a business shirt, because it’s linen and quite classical in its detailing, but it will still look fine as a casual shirt, because of the colour; sort of reminiscent of the classic Levi’s chambray shirts.

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767 with minor variations, mid-weight “crown blue” linen

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Menswear, linen shirt no. 2

I made my husband another shirt!
The fabric; well I got brave, and in a first for me bought some fabric online.  I felt quite strange about this as I have never bought fabric without feeling the weight and thickness of it for myself, but I’m pretty happy about my purchases.  In fact I’ve bought quite a bit, post pictures tomorrow…
I used Burda 7767, the same as for his last shirt here, with a few minor adjustments.  For fitting considerations I curved the side seams a little for a better fit and increased the body and sleeve width at the underarm.  For design considerations I curved the corners of the pocket and cuffs, added a pocket flap, and topstitched with narrow double stitching.  I used black thread throughout for a contrasting look, and for the topstitching.  What can I say, I really like contrasting topstitching!  Maybe next time I’ll make him a shirt with matching topstitching … hmm, maybe not.   I don’t think I could resist putting my own little spin on any of the stuff I make..
I was a bit more careful with the topstitching of the sleeve plackets this time and I think the finish is pretty good if I say so myself….;D!  I bought little shiny black buttons to finish it off.
I really love this rich port-wine colour on him, I think it really suits him and it goes beautifully with his stone coloured linen pants, with a black belt.  
(In case anyone’s curious, he requested that his head be cropped out of the photo!  I thought he looked quite handsome and is too sensitive but I can sympathise as I very often contemplate doing same to my photos too…)

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767, “tawny port” middle-weight linen

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Menswear, linen shirt

Today is my husband’s birthday, and my gift to him is a linen shirt.  Handmade by me, of course!  He requested that I make him some linen shirts after he bought himself one and loved the feel of the linen and its amazing wearability.  In my opinion the only downside to linen is its high crease factor, but this is acceptable in a casual garment.
So, being a birthday present I had to make this one on the sly, which wasn’t easy!  He always seemed to be popping in to the laundry(my sewing room), or coming home from work early, or getting up in the morning earlier than expected; just when I was sneaking in a bit of birthday shirt construction time!
I used Burda 7767 for the pattern; and I had decided on this pink handkerchief linen with gunmetal blue topstitching because he has a pair of pinstripe navy pants that don’t really have a shirt to go with in his wardrobe.  I really like the combination of navy and pink.  Also our eldest son commented that he would like a pink shirt, so I figured that if my husband didn’t like it then I thought he could have it!!
Luckily my husband does really like it.  The sizing was my biggest worry, as obviously I couldn’t fit it to him during construction, being a secret.  I measured it up against other shirts in his wardrobe.  It fits perfectly well, luckily, but I will be making a few minor adjustments to future shirt-making efforts.  Namely making the armholes just a tad deeper, at his request.  I also just made a basic shirt this time, with no fancy design features, but will play a bit with other details next time…
I used the new collar construction technique that I learnt from my mother’s Louise Cutting DVD (through Threads magazine), but as this was a bit of a rushed, secret sewing job I didn’t take any photos of this process.  I will take photos next time and post them, as I feel this is a marvellous method that eliminates some of the excess fabric bulk within the collar and results in a cleaner more streamlined collar.
I am a tiny bit disappointed with some of my topstitching on the sleeve placket (see photo), and being such a high contrast in colours it really stands out!  However my husband nearly always rolls up the sleeves on his casual shirts anyway, so it won’t really matter that much.  In future I will be more careful and spend more time on getting this just right. 

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