Tag Archives: Craig

poppy dress

I’ve made this new dress   #surprise!  This beautiful poppy printed silk chiffon was a birthday present from my lovely thoughtful Mum… we were browsing together in Fabulous Fabrics and oohing and aahing over it, and she suddenly announced “I’d like to get that for you for your birthday!”  And she even chose the pattern I was to use, which is of course Vogue 1351, anyone who has read this blog for even a short amount of time will know how much I LOVE this Donna Karan pattern since I’ve used it a few times.  Actually four times before, to be exact; here, here, here and here.  To my mind its silhouette has a perfect simplicity, or should that be that it is simply perfect?  Either or!

The poppy chiffon is very delicate and sheer.  The background is actually pure white, however I chose to line my dress with a off-white polyacetate lining fabric.  I chose the off-white over pure white, because it was noticeable softer, the overall effect of the pure white was surprisingly harsh.  I’m not really at my best in pure, pure white, even though I love it; a softer ivory-white is a lot better for me.

invisible zip in left side seam; this is always my preferred zip placement!

I’ve worn it several times already, the first time on Remembrance Day, when Mum, Dad, Craig and I went to visit the RSL poppy tribute at Kings Park.  I chose to wear it a) because of Remembrance Day, of course! and b) because Mum and Dad were staying with us and I wanted to show them the lovely birthday present they had given to me!

Wait, the poppy tribute?  Well, this year, 61,513 hand-knitted and crocheted poppies were made and “planted” by RSL volunteers, one poppy for each Australian lost at WW1.  Seeing them and walking through the exhibit; the sheer number of them, was such a very sobering, very humbling and very moving experience.  Speaking, um “craft-ily”, as it were; so much care and love and thought had obviously gone in to each and every poppy too, some had buttons, that we read were often included for their significance to the family in some way, like from a uniform or something.  The exhibit was only on for four days, so we felt very fortunate we thought about it and went, and I was also very pleased to hear that the exhibit will be returning again in future years.

I did think about getting a picture of my dress at the exhibit, but once we got there I felt that would be disrespectful.  I mean, while the poppies themselves were beautiful and spectacular and a visual treat to behold, of course I realised how very wrong it would be to treat them like a photo backdrop to my dress.  Though a few ladies passing by did comment that my dress was “perfect for the day” which was very nice.

I did take a picture of Mum and Dad though…

I next wore the dress just recently, we had a gorgeously warm, but windy! weekend and we went for a lovely long afternoon walk at the beach, and I grabbed the opportunity to take some pictures… does Clara look incredibly wet and sandy in this picture?  Well, that’s because she is!!  I was wondering if she was going to jump up on me, or shake sopping sand all over me with one of those doggy full-body shakes.

Actually caught her partway through one said full-body shake below… and thank goodness she’s waaaaaaaay way over there!  Normally she’ll come right up to you before letting loose, and I’m telling you, this is one ultra-fluffy hairy doggy, and she can carry a heckuvva lot of water and sand in that there gorgeous coat of hers!

plus bonus random bird! hey birdie!

Aaaaand there’s my husband, being very polite and keeping well out of the way while I take my pictures, ahem. Well, that’s what he’s supposed to be doing!!  Man!

Fun fact; in this picture he’s wearing this blue jumper, that I made for him last Christmas.  You have to scroll riiiiiiiiiight to the end of the post to find it though, I just checked and it’s a MONSTER post with about a million items in it.  Well, that’s what it felt like, when I was making them I mean.  Ha!

Details:

Dress; Vogue 1351, poppy print silk hiffon
Red cardi, in beach pics; my own design variation on the Nettie bodysuit, but Closet Case patterns, details here
Sandals; Zomp, from Zomp boutique

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skylines shirt for Craig

So, I’d bought 4m of the skylines fabric from tessuti’s… remember I mentioned my early plans were graaaaand? anyway my dress only took up about half, even with all the fabric-hogging pattern matching, so I had a nice chunk leftover.  Just enough for a shirt for Craig!

I used my current go-to mens’ shirt pattern, Burda 6874, with his usual fitting alterations.  Of course I still pattern matched all over the shop, but other than that the shirt is a pretty simple one, with very little in the way of fanciful details.  I only had enough fabric for a short-sleeved shirt but that’s ok.  It’s very summery fabric after all.

features:

  • a little button tab on the sleeve ends.  There is a real little buttonhole underneath the button, because I do not like fake details, however it’s not really ever meant to be undone
  • the bias cut thing underneath the side seams is part of the pattern…  I really love this very easy and simple little feature

  • bias cut front button band and pocket.  I spaced the buttonholes so they sit neatly and evenly in the ivory rectangle along the buttonband

 

breakfast burrito shirt!!

He seemed rather touched and pleased that I made a shirt for no reason in particular! I mean, not a birthday or Christmas.  This made me feel a little guilty… do I really make things for him that infrequently?

Food for thought.  Well, enough chit-chat… I’m off to make something NOT plaid now!

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Christmas pressies; a sewing marathon

Tim and Kelly…

As usual, I made Christmas presents for my family… I started late October, so I was giving myself plenty of time, or so you’d think!  I’m a fairly efficient seamster, and I still only just finished a few days before Christmas!  it’s been a little intense and stressful, actually; every year I underestimate how busy the lead-up to Christmas is and how I just don’t get as much time to devote to sewing presents as I thought.  Plus, I’m a lot more finicky and particular – maybe excessively so?! about my sewing now too.  I think this is a good thing, but I have to accept that I’m taking longer to make things, and should start sooner!  Or maybe make less?

Anyway, it got done!  *phew

Listing everyting in the order I made it…

First thing to get made was a shirt for Tim… He has a job now where he has to look smart, so I decided to make a business shirt… I bought the really lovely deep maroon, mini-scale gingham cotton shirting from Tessuti’s in Melbourne, and used Burda 6874, my kinda go-to shirt pattern since I semi-retired Burda 7767.  d’you know I made that pattern 37 times… can you believe it?!  that tissue paper was wearing pretty thin in some places and in some other places I’d trimmed off the cutting lines altogether, woopsies!!

what sleeve placket…? of course I busted a gut matching those teeny little checks everywhere, took me two days before I could see straight again…

I made the buttondown version… see how the collar up there buttons down onto the shirt?  This is what qualifies it as a buttondown, folks!  I don’t wanna get all grumpy and pedantic here, being Christmas and all, but the number of times I’m reading about someone’s very lovely, but NOT A BUTTONDOWN shirt erroneously labeled as such and have to hold myself back, because we all hate a little lecture, right? I’m gonna stop right now otherwise I’m going to become that painful lecture-r.

this is the inside of the shirt… I’m pretty proud of my flat-felled seams… and I use the burrito method for the yoke so that’s all nicely enclosed too

All seams are flat-felled, using my own tutorials here and also this one here… yes you can flat-fell every single seam in a shirt! and it’s so much better and nicer… although I’m starting to realise that this is probably why what used to take me maybe two days to make a shirt…  now takes me double that time at the least! but anyway.  My guys appreciate the tailoring, so I’m happy that they’re happy.

Sam’s shirt…

I’m just SUPER happy with how my buttondown collars are looking nowadays!  It’s pretty hard to get that sitting just right and perfectly symmetrical; and I think after all the shirts I’ve made I’ve finally got it down…

Next up; I made a matching top for Kelly.  I’ve previously made matching tops for the two of them and noticed that they wear them together a lot! yes, it’s super cute…  I did a little bit of subtle inquiring as to whether matching clothes were still something they liked before I went there and got a positive response.  Alright then!

I had to be far less subtle about fitting it though!  I’d previously taken Kelly’s measurements for when I made a Kelly anorak for her… it’s impossible to do this without it being obvious! and made a block for her, using my Pattern Magic book to help me.  Yes, this is a pretty involved thing to do, requiring protractors and algebra and such-like! but honestly I’ve always found it to be a hugely worthwhile exercise when drafting new patterns.  Then I mocked up a quick plain bodice, and got her to try it on, and made the necessary changes.  In Kelly’s case, the block fitted but the armhole/bust dart had to modified considerably… the famous full-bust adjustment.  I regret now that I didn’t take any pictures of the mock-up bodice and the changes I made because it was a new learning curve for me that I wish I’d documented!

For Kelly’s top, I’d chosen the asymmetrical cowl top from Pattern Magic 2; the shape of the cowl is dictated by the shape of the facing.  It’s always a bit of a challenge to draft your own patterns, but well I love a challenge! and I knew the shape of this top would be super flattering for Kelly and suit her beautifully…  I cut the pieces on the bias and inserted a maroon invisible zip in the left side seam, so it zips down undone… however Kelly says she can squeeze into it without having to undo the zip which is cool.  I think the bias-cut is what gives it that little bit of stretch.

Next up! a business shirt for Sam! He has also started a new job which requires business dress everyday… I’d noticed a lot of young men wearing gingham shirts while we were in Melbourne… a good sign that gingham is super on-trend! so hot right now! which is basically why I bought gingham for both my boys in the first place.  It’s a bugger to pattern match though, even worse than stripes! gnnnnnnn  but oh well…

Again I used Burda 6874, flat felled seams throughout, same links as for Tim’s above… aaaaand so not much else to add.  Both Sam and Tim have been working out some lately, so I think I’m going to have to make some small adjustments to their shirts in the future.

Next up!  I made some little things for Cassie, she needs more work clothes so this was another practical gift really.  I made three things for her…. I just want to say here; it might seem unfair that I made one top plus TWO skirts for her, when compared to just one shirt for each of the boys, but it really does even out because the TIME I spent making these three little separates is actually the same as the time I spent on EACH of the boys’  shirts.  I know, crazy right?!  it’s all that tailoring bizzo that takes so much time…

Likewise, Kelly’s top needing a block made, plus the fitting muslin, plus drafting a pattern, also took about the same amount of time as making three tried and true things for Cassie!

Anyway; Cassie had already chosen this lovely crackle-y hand-painted cotton from the Fabric store in Melbourne while we were there, and I secretly bought the mustard gingham printed silk from Tessuti’s while she was looking elsewhere.  So the little top was a surprise!  The crackle print really is gorgeous, it is hand painted in Zambia and has that handmade naturalness to it…  LOVE this but pattern matching those hand-painted stripes was never going to happen!  of course they are all different widths and thicknesses which just adds to the charm of course.  I just shut down my inner-obsessive for a little while and did my best… at least I got the centre back seam to match!

The other little skirt is a cityscape print, maybe New York City by the looks of that Lady Liberty in there!  We’d seen the fabric in the upholstery section of Spotlight, so she’d known this one was coming too…

for both skirts I bound the lower hem seams using some leftover purple pin-striped linen, the leftovers from when I made this shirt for Craig a few Christmas’s ago.

I have also taken to binding the bottom edge of the zip and stitching it down to the seam allowances… often the bottom edge of a zip has a slightly scratchy bit which can be extreeeeeemely irritating when you’re wearing it… so I’ve taken to doing this whenever I made an unlined skirt with an invisible zip.  Such a small thing that greatly increases the comfort factor when wearing the skirt!!!

  

Oh! patterns!  I used the Inari tee pattern for the little top and Vogue 8363 for both of the skirts, and since I’ve made both of these patterns for her several times already they were super quick and easy to run up. For both skirts I added belt loops so she can cinch in the waistline a bit; in self-fabric for the Zambia striped one, and in black denim for the cityscape one.

Next up! a short-sleeved white shirt for Craig! also using Burda 6874 and a white cotton broadcloth from Spotlight, this was intended originally to be the same as this little shirt that I made for him a few years ago and which happens to be his most worn shirt … then just before making this I’d whipped up my little yellow/black&white lingerie set and had the gingham ribbon sitting out, and suddenly had this brainwave as to how I could use a bit more of it! I stitched the gingham ribbon carefully down the button line of the button placket, and used a little bit to trim the pocket.

To match this gingham detail, I lined both the collar and collar stand with some cotton gingham that I’ve had for aaaaages, and used black buttons to finish the shirt.  Note; IT’S A BUTTONDOWN SHIRT!  Also, of course it’s nowhere near a clone of the other white shirt any more but I still think he’ll wear it a lot…

Next up! a pullover/sweatshirt for Craig!  truth now… I was running out of time, and steam! and this fair near killed me!

Craig with a much much smaller Sam and Tim…

So, once upon a time, nearly twenty years ago, we went on a summertime camping trip down south and it was blooming’ freezing, our tent nearly blew away, we got rained on, hailed on and fair near froze to death!  In pure survival mode, Craig drove to the nearest town bought a red sweatshirt that he has since LOVED and worn about a million times, almost to bits since it’s getting reeeeeeally worn and threadbare now.  At some point he asked me to make a clone of the famous sweatshirt…

Of course it’s easy to clone a sweatshirt, but the challenge is in finding suitable fabric! I found this blue marled French terry in Spotlight, and while the colour is a teeny bit blah and the texture is not as nice as his original sweatshirt, it’s going to make a reasonable stop-gap until winter rolls around, the winter fabrics come into the shops, and hopefully I can find something nicer.  I busted a gut finishing off all the seam allowances off beautifully inside though… imitating the exceptionally beautiful finishes that were in the original.  For the pockets and bias binding I used some of the leftover navy/white gingham that I used for Sam’s shirt, above.  The pockets are French-seamed and the rest of the seams have an interesting amalgamation of HongKong bound AND flat-felled seams… not sure if my method is the same as in the original but I worked out a way to do it and took a few pictures along the way.

First, stitch the seams, then figure out which way you want the seams to be stitched down and apply bias binding to the topside of the seam allowance… ie. to stitch along the same stitching as previously you will be pinning/stitching along the UNDERNEATH,

OR alternatively you can save yourself a step here and stitch the bias binding on at the same time as you’re stitching the seam; your choice.

Press the garment seam allowances open, then press them to the side where they will be felled, with the bias binding on top.  From the other, right side, of the garment, pin through all layers.

With the right side facing up, topstitch the garment to the seam allowances plus binding, through all layers, just to the side of the garment seam…

view on the inside…

Keeping the bias binding free and clean, trim and grade the garment seam allowances…

Turn under and press the raw edge of the bias binding down so as to encase the seam allowances of the garment, pin in place.

With the bias binding facing up, and following the previous stitching as a stitching guide, topstitch the pressed edge of the bias binding down.  Since you’re using the previous stitching as a guide, the width of your double-topstitching will be nice and even from the outside.

Voila!  Such a nice neat finish!  at first I thought it might be overkill, but it is rather classy, if I say so myself; looks pretty good both inside and outside.  I will definitely be using this one again!

As seen above, I also applied bias binding all around the zip tape and stitched it down with double top-stitching the same way to match… this really does make a nice, neatly finished look when the zip is down.  Which it will be, most of the time.

And, last but not least!  I also made a few more little hardback notebooks… just fun little things, however I do know that the recipients do actually use notebooks regularly so I know they will be useful too!  I used mostly a mixture of leftover and old papers; from old scrapbooks, some with the children’s scribbles still on them!  I’m sentimental that way  😉 , various papers, musical paper, some pale coloured wrapping paper, writing stationery; just lots of different stuff.

The notebooks are covered variously with linen, velvet, printed cotton.  The one I made for Mum is covered with raw silk hessian.

So! Yes, it was quite a lot of stuff to make and I was working on it all like billy-o from touching down after Melbourne right up until I finished right on the wire only two days before Christmas…  I’ve been thinking about this… why am I taking longer to achieve less nowadays?  and I think it’s because I used to be happy and content with a slightly more unfinished approach… slapdash is maybe too strong a word? whereas now I am far more, possibly excessively? finicky and particular about perfect finishes on the insides.  I think I’m ok with this…  I feel like well-finished clothing is what I’m into right now.

However, to avoid the Christmas stress maybe I need to start making Christmas presents a LOT sooner!  Each year I start way ahead of time and think by doing so will relieve the stress, each year I get super stressed out and have at least one “I CANNOT DO THIIIIIIS!!” moment.  But I did.  And now for a break from deadlines!!

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some shirts…

… in addition to luggage pressies, I made some shirts for those incredibly difficult to buy/make-for men in my life.  Honestly, it would be so much more fun and frivolous if I only had girls to make stuff for, but you know.  I love these big blokey-bloke creatures anyway.

My husband and sons all do like shirts fortunately, and I recently bought this new pattern, Burda 6874, and made a short-sleeved version for Craig, here.  For these new ones though, I went with the full-on, long-sleeved version.
Prior to Christmas Craig and I went to several Christmas parties, and on on a fair few we encountered our good friend S, a man who is the most super-stylish, fashion-forward, hip dresser you could imagine in sleepy old Perth.  Needless to say, he is not actually a born-and-bred Perth man.

I always look forward to seeing what he is wearing.  Anyway, a couple of weeks ago he was sporting a floral shirt.  And not a traditionally manly type of a floral, like a Hawaiian print or abstractly/discreetly masculine-y subdued-colour floral either, but a distinctly “pretty” floral with rambling roses in shades of pink and pale yellow.  Well!  With the way he’d styled it, with rolled up sleeves and faded blue jeans, it just looked so awesomely cool, it blew my tiny little mind.  SO ON POINT!!!  With brain a-buzzing, I forthwith made haste to the fabric store like immediately; to add some cool-dude florally goodness to Craig’s wardrobe.  I should just slip in here, Craig is not much of a fashion-forward guy actually.  To his credit, he wore this shirt on Christmas Day, and looked super cool.  He garnered many compliments too, hehe (rubs nails on chest pridefully)

I also made a shirt for Sam.  His is a fun and beautifully coloured feather print, that I just fell in love with, randomly.  Oh, in each case, I’ve customised the fit of the pattern to suit each guy… Sam is my easy one, in that he just about perfectly fits a size 38.  YAY!!  Craig is not so perfect, ahem  😉 he still requires that 2cm extension out and down from each underarm point, plus the same modification to the sleeve/underarm point.  Otherwise I run him up a straight size 40 with a little added length in the body too.

All fabrics and buttons are from Spotlight, both a crisp cotton print. Funny thing, while I was making each shirt, I kept each guy’s shirt super secret from that particular guy, but was less careful when that guy wasn’t around.  So every now and again they would catch sight of the other one’s shirt.  And even though I was careful to say to them, “btw, this is NOT for you!” they each privately thought the other’s shirts WERE for them, and were looking forward to wearing them!  I’m sorry! but yes, I was telling the truth  😉

I altered things very slightly on each shirt… the pockets are different on each one.  They both have two breast pockets; but Craig’s has arrow-pointed bottoms, and I did a little bar tack on the top edge of the topstitching, in lieu of the usual triangle.  I don’t know why, just a whim.  For Sam’s, the pockets have a rounded bottom, and the regular triangle at the top edges.  I chose shiny black button for his shirt, to pick out the black feather borders, and unobtrusive, white, matte buttons for Craig’s shirt, to allow the floral to truly shine, hehe.

The other alteration I made for both was to make the sleeve plackets with an arrowhead top…  the previous pattern I used Burda 7767, had this feature and I’ve just grown to like it.  The Burda 6874 sleeve placket has a flat, rectangular head; I did use this pattern piece still, just cut it a little bit longer at the top and stitched it with the arrow head.  I had to giggle at myself though, because there’s pretty good chance these shirts will ALWAYS be worn with the sleeves rolled up, they’re just that kind of shirt! and those immaculately stitched sleeve plackets won’t ever be seen.  Ha!

When I wrote about this pattern previously, I mentioned how I always hand-slipstitch the inner collar in place before topstitching, and quite a few people commented how you could dispense with the hand-stitching; just press the SA in and topstitch and voila!  However, maybe it’s just me, but I just do not get a very neat finish that way.  I’ve tried it, but nearly have always ended up unpicking and re-doing little bits here and there, where it ends up a bit uneven.  So, now I save myself the unpicking and just do the invisible hand-stitching, then topstitch from the outside; and get this satisfactory (to me) evenness in the collar finish.  I suppose I am pretty pedantic, but I just cannot dispense with that step and I admire anyone who can.

topstitched on the outside

still looks kinda neat inside

In both shirts; all seams are flat-felled, including the armscye seam (tutorial for flat-felling a curved seam here)  It’s a bit crazy, particularly given my very tight schedule for making Christmas gifts this year, but since I discovered that I could do this level of finish for my mens’ shirts, now I just can’t let it go and always have to do it.  Really, it doesn’t add that much time overall.  Sometimes I wish a little that I could go back to those days of carefree-ly zipping the seam allowances through the overlocker, but no.  #sigh

This side seam, um… gusset/insert-thingy?  don’t know what you should call it really, but this is a feature of the pattern.  I love this!  It’s just a little thing, but I think it looks really nice.

I’m planning to write a pattern review for this pattern too… but in a nutshell; LOVE almost everything about it! with the one exception of the instructions for doing the front buttonhole bands.  Those are a little light-on and it’s not intuitive, really.  You kind of have to work it out from scratch each time… I’m thinking of doing a little tute for myself to refer to in the future.  Next time I make a shirt  🙂

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Japanese Liberty shirt for Craig

craig-shirtHello!  I’ve been sewing a new shirt for Craig… and feel quite bad actually because weburda-6874 bought this fabric for him during our visit to Japan last January… nearly a whole year ago!  Yes, I feel terrible.

Anyway, now it has been made, finally, all done and dusted, better late than never!

Pattern: I even treated myself to a new mens’ shirt pattern!  this is Burda 6874.  My old favourite Burda 7767 is very very used now and a lot of the cutting lines have almost fretted away and a few are barely visible anymore.  I’ve still got it and will use it for the collar variations, which have always been its best feature.  This new pattern is very nice too; it is a basic yoked mens’ shirt pattern, quite slimline, more slimline that my old pattern! with two back variations, curved hemline, regular or hidden button band variations, long cuffed sleeves, a collar stand and collar which can be made as a regular collar or a button-down… and when it comes to that please don’t get me started on the widespread but incorrect use of the term “button-down” as it applies to shirts… my pet hate grrrrrr.  Hint; it’s not about the shirt at all, but the COLLAR.  If the collar buttons down onto the shirt, it is called a button-down shirt.  If the collar does not button down onto the shirt, it is NOT a button-down shirt.  Simples.

collar

(deep breath)  ok so this is clearly NOT a button-down shirt… as per Craig’s request I also made it with short sleeves and gave it a hidden button band.  It’s interesting that the hidden buttons do not have even spacing under that band… the space between the second, exposed button and the next one down is shorter than the others… this made me a little nervous when I was stitching those buttonholes, I checked the pattern, and double-checked! and yep, it IS supposed to be like that!

hidden-buttons-welt-pocketAlso above; I decided upon welt pockets rather than patch pockets.  No, they can hardly be seen in amongst that busy print.  I’ve made my peace with that, at last, though that was the motivating factor behind my decision to topstitch throughout with black thread, to make all the details of the shirt stand out a little more.

side-seam

I made up the pattern almost as is, with just a slight custom-fitting alteration for Craig, namely extending the underarm by 2.5cm, and that same width to each side of the sleeves at the underarm too.  This extra width is tapered away to nothing by the bottom of the sleeve.  It’s a similar alteration I always did to Craig’s Burda 7767’s too, but slightly different/less exaggerated since the fit of the new pattern is slightly different.  Or maybe Craig has slightly changed? always possible I suppose!

flat-felling

All seams are flat-felled, including the armscye seams, and see here for my tutorial on how to flat fell a curved armsye seam (as below).  I also did the yoke using that burrito method, so there was no need for hand stitching. Still had to hand stitch the inner collar facing down though… I don’t think the method has been invented yet that can eliminate that!

flat-felling-armscye
Fabric; Japanese Liberty tana lawn, bought from Check & Stripe in Tokyo, during our holiday last January.  Craig chose it himself; the little village and woodland scenes are so lovely.  Do I wish I had bought more, and even a little bit for myself  YES!! but oh well.  I did buy plenty of other fabrics for myself, don’t worry.  But oh!  Liberty such a true delight to work with…  its so pliable, smooth, even; it passes through the machine beautifully, folds and presses so crisply and perfectly.  I just wish I could sew with it more often!!  The little unobtrusive black buttons are from Spotlight.  I know, not very worthy, huh.  Bit of  a letdown.  Well, it’s not like the buttons are going to steal any shows here.  That beautiful print does all the talking!

japanese-liberty

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3 hoodies

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In other Christmas “making” I also made hoodies for my three menfolk; Craig, and for Tim and Sam.  For the last few years I’ve made summer shirts for them, but this year I wanted to do something different.  And all of them love wearing hoodies! so bam! easy decision really.

Hmmm, yes, I had to get Bessie to model them, who is shaped very differently from each of my guys, of course!! but I took these pictures before I wrapped them up to pop under the tree and haven’t had the opportunity to get the boys to model them for pictures.  Not to mention that it’s been 30C+ every day… phew! so no one wants to wear them just yet! Pictures with them actually IN their new Christmas stuff will have to wait for a little while…

I used my pattern taken from an old hoodie of Craig’s, that had a really cool style of hood/collar combined; it sits really nicely and looks a bit more stylish than the regular two-piece no-frills hood.  If anyone’s interested I once wrote a tutorial on this collar/hood, with pictures of the pieces if you’d like to have a go at it.

DSC_2623Over the years since I first drew the pattern out I’ve had to slightly alter it and custom fit to each of my boys each time I’ve made it.  They keep doing annoying things like working out and growing taller with longer arms and gaining a bit here, losing a bit there as time goes on.  So it’s always a bit more of an exercise than just whipping out a pattern and zooming it up with the greatest of ease…. NOT!

Anyway, I’m not complaining.  I love making stuff for my family  🙂

I went to Spotlight and bought up big on stripe-y, fluffy jerseys in a winter weight.  And the beanies in the previous post? I chose the colours to match so that each man’s hoodie/beanie is a nicely toning ensemble in their colours.

Sam’s hoodie, at top; is light grey and white, with a grey beanie to match, because I think he looks great in grey.  I bought some pale grey marled lightweight jersey to do the hood and the kangaroo pockets, because I feared it would look a little too pyjama-y, or sort of juvenile or something.  I don’t know what it is about the pale grey stripe that made me worry about this, because… it’s funny, can’t logically explain why I have this thought, but I reckon you get away with a full hoodie in a blue stripe whereas in pale grey not so much, looks bit cheap or something.  Can’t explain it.  In any case I just intuited having a contrast in this particular colour would be a good decision and I’m glad I did it.

For Craig, I chose a muted air-force blue, with a small white pin-stripe.  And with a red beanie for him, because he likes red and blue in winter and tends to wear them together a lot.

DSC_2628The air force blue looked pretty cool and right up his alley and it’s a very nice weight, I loved it upon first sight.  However, after washing it and hanging it out to dry, then laying it out for cutting, I discovered to my amazement that the “stripe” actually was more of a gentle, slight “wave” of stripes across the fabric looking like this ” ~ “, NOT a straight horizontal stripe.  AAAAUGH!!  and being “slight” of course, means it really comes across like a bit of a boo-boo, rather than look like an intentional wave, which I could work into the design somehow.  Nope, this just looked OFF.

Grrr.  Anyway, I did my absolute best with it, pulled it into shape in some places, cut out a wee bit dodgily in other places where it didn’t matter, like the kangaroo pocket.  I know the pocket appears to be not drastically far off straight in the picture but trust me, that’s an optical illusion created by clever cutting and placement!!  Also the side seam stripes don’t match, the most obvious area where the fault can be seen.  He really likes it though, so I’m putting aside my dumb perfectionist tendencies and just enjoying that he enjoys it  🙂

For Tim, I chose a navy blue with ivory stripe and his beanie is the matching navy blue.  This fabric was the thickest of the lot, slightly ribbed, and is toasty warm.  For the drawstring in the hood, the fabric was too thick to work and so I used a strip of Craig’s hoodie fabric, folded outwards so the solid coloured blue is on the outside.

DSC_2630Oh, the hoodie strings… in each case I made a self-fabric drawstring for the hoodies, bar Tim’s, as explained.  To make a drawstring in the jersey, I cut a 1-2cm strip of fabric across the grain.  Most jerseys have a natural tendency to roll or curl up across the grain, and you can use this to full advantage while making your drawstring.

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Just allow the fabric to curl up just like it wants to, and stitch it with a zig-zag stitch in a width set to just under the width of your finished strip.  Start from the centre, because it looks neater that way with the central start/stop point hidden inside the hood casing, and finish at each end.  IMG_7461IMG_7467

Thread the flat drawstring through a wool needle and pull it through the hood casing; cut both ends equally to size, then tie off in a simple knot, so they won’t slip back through the eyelet at all.  Easy peasy, and colourwise looks like it was tailor-made to go with the hoodie perfectly, which it was, of course, haha.  Well, by that I mean that we all know how difficult, if not impossible it can be to get drawstrings to colour-match our fabrics perfectly?  mm hmmm.

Problem solved!

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The first three hoodies that I made from this pattern can be seen here, here and here; hoodie tutorial here

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a bevy of beauties

I can now share the fruits of my Christmas shirt-making bendah!!  Old news? oh well…
I made four shirts recently.  Yes, four! *phew* all since I returned home from Melbourne.  I know.  Sheer insanity.  I has it.
Actually I did have different Christmas pressie plans, firm intentions to do something else for them all this year.   And then couldn’t find the specific fabric I needed.  And then the Fabric Store in Melbourne had such a gorgeous quality linens in stock…
resistance was futile.  Shirts it was.  My other plans will keep for next year  😉
All are made using Burda 7767, all with short sleeves, all felled seams, with those tricky curved armscye seams felled using this tip.  The linen had no right or wrong side, enabling me to fold the buttonhole bands out, rather than under.  This makes a rather nice distinct buttonhole band, which can be further emphasised with piping like I did here, or a coupla double rows of top-stitching, or both.  This is my favourite way of doing the buttonhole band.
Burda 7767 has three collar variations; the button-down, the Kent and the shark.  I’ve used all of them at one time or another in my 30-odd versions of this pattern, but haven’t ever pointed out the differences specifically when blogging about them.  So this time, I shall do so  🙂

Shirts 1 and 2, above and below: Tim’s and Sam’s pale blue shirts both feature the “shark” collar, more traditionally known as the cutaway collar.  It was a collar designed to accommodate a large or widely knotted tie, but I think it makes a nice collar for a casual shirt, worn open with the top few buttons undone.  Which, lets face it, is how my boys wear their shirts, like 99.99% of the time.

Tim’s shirt

They are both of sky blue linen, with piping inserted in under the buttonhole band, the pocket and sleeve hems.  Tim’s piping is pale blue and Sam’s is creamy pale yellow; these fabrics harvested from two of Craig’s old business shirts.  I cut both the boys’ shirts a little slimmer in the body and a little shorter of sleeve than I’ve done in the past, because I’ve noticed the fashion in young mens’ shirts is for a slightly shrunken look at the moment.
btw, Cassie made Sam’s shorts in the top picture; I think she did a brilliant job and they look gorgeous!  The fabric is Batman cotton from Spotlight, and she drew up the pattern herself using some of Sam’s shorts to guide her.  They have two welt pockets on the back as well as two inseam side pockets, and an elastic waistband.

Shirt 3; Craig’s blue linen shirt has a Kent collar, considered the classic collar.  I originally made the sleeves on this shirt a little shorter like the boys…  However! upon first try-on my conservative husband immediately requested a lengthening, ahem.  *sigh*  I complied and added a long cuff, with a decorative metal button sewn on the top edge.

This shirt has a longer back than front, and split side seams felled with a long bar tack at the top.  The other three shirts all have a regular, shaped hemline. 

Shirt number 4; Craig’s emerald green shirt has the rather difficult to execute button-down collar.  

To my mind the button-down collar has the most formal appearance of the bunch, but actually this is considered the “sporty”option in collars.
So there you go! a short compilation of collars. 
Haha, bevy of beauties, compilation of collars, I’m so alliterative this morning.  Sheer poetry, wot.

All buttons were harvested from off of some of Craig’s old business shirts.  RTW mens’ shirts nearly always have great buttons, good colours, good quality and in a difficult to find small size.  Only the Craig’s blue linen shirt has new metal buttons, from Spotlight.

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Three pin-striped shirts

My Christmas present to my boys this year is a tailored shirt for each one; in pin-striped linen with contrasting white collar, cuffs, and buttonbands, and a double welted breast pocket with looped button closure.

Three shirts in addition to Cassie’s outfit and Craig’s birthday shirt.  Phew!  These have kept me super busybusybusy, nose to the grindstone sewing machine for the last few weeks since we got back from Melbourne!  This is the first year I’ve made three long-sleeved shirts for Christmas, the past few years I’ve made things a little easier on myself by slipping at least one short-sleeved one in there.  The cuffs and little sleeve plackets are quite a bit of work, and a short sleeved shirt feels almost quick and easy by comparison.  In the past I’ve always given each item I make its own post, and particularly because of the amount of work that goes into a highly tailored item like a man’s shirt, I kinda reckon they deserve a post each; but this time I just couldn’t with that.  It’s all been just too much!

All three shirts are made using Burda 7767, with the personal fitting modifications for each of my men that I’ve fine-tuned over many many shirts.  How many of these am I up to??  Must be over 30 of them by now, I think.  

Craig’s is a white with purple pin-stripe and brown-y purple buttons, Tim’s is a charcoal with white pin/stripe and black buttons, and Sam’s is a white with blue pin-stripe and caramel-coloured buttons.  All three pin-striped linens are from Tessuti’s in Melbourne, bought during my recent girls’ weekend away with Mum and Cassie; and all the buttons are from Fabulous Fabrics.  The  white contrasting fabric is a silk/linen mix bought from Fabulous Fabrics.  I’ve totally hoarded this lovely and quite expensive stuff for aaaages and had toyed with bravely cutting into it for one for my own SWAP projects, but decided that my boys deserved the best… (deep breath, must learn to let go of precious fabrics) Fortunately I should still have enough to make something for myself.  Bonus!
All the seams are flat-felled; I used my own tutorial for flat-felling a curved seam to get a nice finish along those sleeve caps.  Craig’s shirt has a long curved hemline because it’s more business-like, and the boys’ shirts both have straight hemlines with a lapped split side seam.

My review of this excellent pattern is here

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