My new coat!
This is McCalls 5525, view D. I have used this pattern before; my first version is view B, pictured here. My second version here is mid-length also, and has the wide symmetrical collar with a button tab on the collar stand (in case it gets really cold, I suppose, so if you want to button it right up to the collar you can), and three-quarter length bell-shaped sleeves (pictured below). I also made the in-princess-seam pockets a mite deeper and bigger than the pattern. Have I said before how much I love this pattern? Oh my… I can see from the post on my previous version that I stated I would be making this pattern again. I can’t believe it has taken me this long! I love trench coats. I want more!
For my fabric, I used a lovely piece of cotton gabardine in a warm translucent-eggshell shade of ivory, that was in the bundle of fabrics given to me by my friend C from her late mother’s stash. I knew the moment I laid eyes on it that it would be simply perfecto for a super stylish trench coat, like some of the oh-so dazzling white ones I have pinned from the last (Northern) winter. Oh, did someone say “shows the dirt”? Shushhhh!! Banish those dirty thoughts! Naturally my coat will stay pure as the driven snow all winter long since I am a master laundress (haha) and never ever indulge in outdoor activities (haha hahaha) But what the hey, that is why Napisan was invented, no? Ahh, Napisan, best friend of those addicted to pale clothes…. what would we do without you and your magical cleaning properties?
There was a hiccup to start. Even though my piece of ivory loveliness was the perfect fabric for a trench coat, I did not have enough for an entire trench coat. Hmmm. A trifling setback. But I resourcefully checked out the bridal section of Fabulous Fabrics… And y’know what? found some de-lustred satin, that was not only an almost pretty-darn-perfect match in colour and very acceptable match in texture, but also was of a thickness, stiffness and weight that was pretty darn identical what my gabardine would be like if block-fused with sturdy iron-on interfacing. Which I joyfully realised that I then did not have to do. Score!!! So I cut all my pieces that required interfacing from the de-lustred satin, and saved myself that extra step of interfacing. Such pieces being the front facings, collar stand and collar facings, tabs, and the self-fabric belt. The other pieces were cut from my gabardine.
Funnily enough, I did this exact same thing, using two matching fabrics of different weights the first time I made up this pattern. Life repeating itself… 🙂
For the lining I used a medium weight ivory satin. This is quite thick too, so I’m hoping this will make it warm enough to wear all winter. (Please don’t write to tell me how pathetic our winters are. Yes, even in the dead of winter we are still 2000 miles away from the nearest snow. No need to rub it in)
The buttons; I did not want perfectly black buttons, and found these at Fabulous Fabrics. They are a deep deep blue-y charcoal with little flecks of ivory. They could not be more perfect.
So, I realise this is quite a picture heavy post. Please excuse that. I guess I’m a mite proud of how it turned out 🙂 And to be fair you need a few pictures to address the all important question of which of these belts looks best with the coat; self-fabric belt (above), black leather belt (below), or even no belt at all (far below)? Which do you think?
Details:
Coat; McCalls 5525, view D, ivory gabardine, ivory de-lustred satin, ivory satin lining, my review of this pattern here
Skirt; my own design, charcoal jersey knit, details here
Shoes; Misano, from Labels boutique
Looks fantastic. Hope it's not a dirt magnet (I don't own any white clothes for a reason). And I think it looks best with the self-fabric belt.
What an amazing coat! It's so lovely and white – I'm no good at keeping myself clean, so I don't own or wear any white bottoms because I always sit on stuff, and the only white coat I own is a lab coat, which is designed to get dirty.
In the way of belts, I prefer the self-fabric belt, then the black belt is my next favourite.
Hi … Lovely coat .. I love a white trench. I like all belts with it and even without. Many options! I love the bell sleeves.
Great coat. Your work is beautiful. Last time I read about your trench coat, I actually went and bought the pattern. But such a lot of work! I will procrastinate.
This is lovely! I like it with both belts and without.
Beautiful coat – love the contrasting black buttons!
Beautiful coat! I love the self fabric belt, but actually all three styles are fantastic on you. You look fabulous!
Love your trench coat, it looks amazing in white.
WOW!!! I love trench coats too and yours looks fabulous. As for the belt – it depends on the look you want but I would wear it all three ways, they all look great.
What a delicious coat you've made! I like it best without a belt – I really like the shape of the coat uncinched.
Oh great. Another pattern I have to buy because of you and your amazing sewing skills. 8-))
No I won't make fun of you for your pathetic winters, I promise. I used to live a 6 hour drive from the Arctic Circle, I have felt -53C, that is with a wind chill factor, real temperature. However make it +40 C and I won't leave the house and whine constantly. It is all relative.
I love the coat and I have always thought that a white coat was the ultimate in luxury. I like it with the self belt the best.
Could you email me your mailing address? You won the draw for the notions (including the gorgeous vintage MOP buttons).
It's fabulous and spring-y! I even like it unbelted. The fit is great.
I love it. I think I like it best without a belt. It has a very retro vibe without.
Beautiful coat, your fabric matching (and mixing) is really good, I can't even tell the difference. I like all three ways you styled it, maybe with the black belt the least but they all look good!
Very well made; i like it with the black belt!
This jacket looks great!:) I particularly like the bell shaped sleeve. Makes it quite unique. Nice work:)
Oh, this is wonderful! I like it with the black belt. Yup, those with winters are laughing at 3/4 length sleeves being appropriate for winter too. Please show us more pictures when it gets cool enough to wear it! I really liked this pattern too. If it were really coat season here long enough I would make more too – who needs any other coat pattern? This one is a beaut! I made my pockets bigger too after reading the online reviews. I forgot to mention that in my post .. oh well.
Stunning, it looks fantastic on you
Beautiful !
I vote for the black belt !
This is really stunning simple yet very pretty.
A white coat, what a great choice, you can wear it with anything. Love the black accent buttons and the sleeve length.
Absolutely gorgeous! All belt variations look wonderful. Hopefully you'll wear this coat often enough that you will perhaps come up with more belt variations.
Fantastic, I like with the different belts and without one at all.. Very nice girly!
This looks so lovely on you Carolyn! I imagine it being very versatile in the wardrobe. I can't decide which belt option I prefer, but the tie belt is more classic I suppose!
Oh wow! I'm not a big fan of trench coats, since I think that few people look really good in them, but my do you rock that look! 😀 I love the tie belt best!
The cut of that trench is most flattering. Looks gorgeous!
Such a perfect coat. It's just brilliant.
BTW email me your address (velogiantatnetscapedotnet) and I'll send you some Seams Great to try out. Think of it as an Easter bunny delivery.
Oh caroline ! It is so lovely and fresh! I adore the 3/4 sleeves.
That is a lovely coat, and although not really suitable for most winters, everyone needs a coat right! I have to say, I envy you your mild winters, I don't do the cold well. I complain about a winter where the temperature usually hovers around double digits and it snows every couple of years, don't know how I would cope with a climate that has lots of snow and below zero during the day.
I am a Napisan girl too. I just throw it in with my whites in a warm wash and even the best my boys can throw at me stainwise disappears!
I love a good trench coat too! Yours is lovely. Love the styling.
Love your trench coat. Fabo – looks good with either belt or even without. More pictures the better too – I think!
By the way…just read your comment on my blog and thank you! My email is rog.andrea@xtra.co.nz
It's beautiful, you'll feel like an absolute superstar every time you wear it. This pattern is on my winter to-sew list and I think you've just bumped it up a couple of places 🙂
Your coat is gorgeous, you always do such amazing work. I agree this is one of my favorite patterns.
Beautiful coat! Love it with the self covered belt.
This is beautiful and fits you so well. The collar detail is lovely.
And you make me wish Napisan were available in the U.S. I have lost too many pieces of clothing to stains!
Its stunning — I agree, its best with the self-fabric belt.
So beautiful, perfect!
Looks fantastic. I just love reading your blog & seeing what you have been up to. You are sew productive!
I like it BEST with the dark belt, but it look lovely without a belt as well. It turned out remarkably well. I'm wondering what the American version of Napisan might be.
Stunning!!
I like this look both with and without the belt. You have such a talent for reusing patterns while still making each piece look really unique. Great jacket!
Gorgeous! I want one.
Thats beautiful. I've been meaning to make myself a jacket of some sort but am never sure how the patterns will translate to real people. Tat one seems to translate quite well!
Lovely! I like the contrast of the dark buttons and belt with it.
Really beautiful, Carolyn, and I love the bold black buttons.
Lovely, just lovely! I really like it with the black belt because it emphasizes the wonderful black buttons!
your coat is amazing as is all your work! i like it best with the self-belt…so striking!!
What a beautiful trench coat! I love the ivory color and your work is perfect! I like the coat best with the self tie belt or with no belt at all.
Late to the party but just want to say it's gorgeous!
One of my favourite things you have made! Well done! A question…I have a pattern to make a trench coat for my son and I am looking for the traditional "bone" colour. Any suggestions (even online) where I might find some in Aus? Thank you!
I can't think of anything else to say except gorgeous! Love it. The black belt and buttons look fab!
Wow! This trench looks super professional and is so elegant and stylish! You are so talented
Beautiful coat! I am always amazed at how much sewing you get done!
I do like it unbelted but you have such a tiny waist it would be a shame not to emphasize it so I'd go with either the self-belt or the black one, depending on what you're wearing it with.
Thank you all!
Cha cha, if I knew where to get the perfect bone twill fabric for trench coats I would be first in line! However, I see you are in Victoria, and there are some really excellent fabric stores in Melbourne; Tessuti's, the Fabric Store, and the Alannah Hill outlet store on Brunswick Rd. are good places to start.
Though we are in opposite seasons, we seem to be on a similar sewing schedule :-). I have been gathering coat ideas for my next winter coat. Yours is gorgeous, and suits you very well. The contrasting belt is perfect.
Love your coat. Looks beautiful. I have been meaning to make one but never found the right fabric.
That's just coat heaven Carolyn. It is so versatile. Love it.
Totally gorgeous – I only wear trench coats (though not made by me) because they come with hoods and zip out linings and I can wear them practically year-round (sadly, it's necessary here in Northern England). Love the black belt to go with the black buttons. Well done – I mean, well made!
This ttench coat is amazing ur attention to deatail makes me envious, wish i could be more patient.
Very good! Looks so perfect and very-very elegant!
Hi Carolyn, amazing to see your work. I really admire your courage and experimental nature. your work is very precise and modelling is cool too. I wish my students ever thought of doing any extra work like this. Congrats to your achievements and wish you all success in more ventures.
Salju Jose
email: saljujose@gmail.com
Hi Carolyn,
We have just come across your blog and we are huge fans. We are so happy you love our shoes and support fellow Perthies 🙂
We would love to have a chat if you would like to contact us at admin@bradshaws.net.au or via our facebook page http://www.facebook.com/misanoshoes
We look forward to hearing from you 🙂
Looks amazing!! I love this coat :))))