I’ve made a dress, utilising the design on p52 of Pattern Magic, by Tomoko Nakamichi.
This appears to be a fairly plain dress on a casual glance. But it is not. It has a “feature”: a feature that like many Pattern Magic features, seems to the casual, non-sewing observer to be a superficially simple thing, like “so? what could possibly be difficult about that??” but in actuality, getting to the nitty gritty of it, is a fair dinkum epic saga to put together seamlessly and successfully. In this case, the feature is that the bodice explodes out into an incorporated posy of entwined knots that looks sorta like a statement neckpiece, or maybe a 3D sculptural bib. Prof Nakamichi describes it as “By bringing together several knots that resemble tiny bells I have created a unique garment that evokes the sounds of bells ringing”
This is achieved by the front being six pieces… four of these end in a long strip; which is later tied into knots which you weave together as artistically as you can. Counting from a shoulder; sections 1 and 6; and sections 3 and 8; are each one piece; comprising two sections joined by a bridge, so these joining bridges have to be knotted before you can sew the top sections to the rest of the front.
I made my dress using a light stone coloured, linen/silk mix, bought from Fabulous Fabrics about four years ago. Yes! a long time ago! This was another length of fabric previously Too Good To Actually Use.
Due to the nature of the design; some of the strips are cut on the bias and some on the half bias. To save fabric and add stability I cut all the facing strips on the grain. I faced and turned out each strip separately, and then later sewed on the bodice facings. When it came to facing that front neckline, I sewed each section at a time and checked each obsessively for a smooth finish before proceeding to the next one; shoulders first and finishing at the centre front.
The back is four pieces; interestingly in a princess seamed arrangement. The dress closure is by invisible zip in the centre back seam, and the back neckline is a modest V-line. I added deep, inseam side pockets, and attached a self skinny belt in the side seams to tie at the back. This adds a bit of shape to it, and provides some visual interest at the back, which is otherwise rather plain. The ends of the belt are tied in little knots, a tiny design echo of those knots at the neckline at the front.
This is probably one of the top ten most difficult makes I’ve ever attempted. Vogue Advanced/Plus Difficile?? pfff, Pattern Magic farts in your general direction!*
However I am, in inverse proportion to the degree of difficulty involved; stupidly pleased with it. I think maybe I am a sewing room masochist, deriving a perverse enjoyment from the torture of difficult dressmaking challenges. What a weirdo, huh? But I’m thinking of something easy next.
* Monty Python of course!
Details:
Dress; adapted from the design on p53 of Pattern Magic 2 by Tomoko Nakamichi, light brown silk/linen
Shoes; new! for autumn!! c/o Misano
Congratulations on such a difficult but beautiful dress. I love the small variations you've made. It looks lovely on and Yay! to your new shoes. Very cool.
What an intruiging piece. I can see the slightly machoistic 😉 appeal of making this piece, such a fabulous outcome but it looks insanely difficult to construct – very satisfying in the end I am sure.
I love the beautiful neutral fabric, although it has a lovely texture in itself, it really lets the fascinating design details shine. Beautiful, and looks about $3,000,000 worth of dress. Wow.
I have all three Pattern Magic books and each time I see one of the garments made up I want to give it a go. Sadly it will have to wait.
Love this piece its really stunning.
Crikey! Well I can hear the bells ringing. This is really stylish, and you must be so proud of yourself for getting it done.
This looks soooo hard! I hope I can be as good as you one day. Love the blog!
What a thing of beauty- certainly worth applying plus difficile effort to. Love the deceptive simplicity of it and you should be stupidly pleased!!
Oh my gosh, this looks so awesome! I love the fabric too. Yes it looks really really difficult (too difficult for me) but you are clearly up for challenges like these. Well done!
Goodness, what a stunning dress. I'm in awe of your skill and patience in making this!
This is an amazing dress. I was flicking through a copy of this book the other day and got overwhelmed by how complex the designs are. You have executed this brilliantly, well done.
Love the dress! If I understand correctly, you cut section 1 and 6 (and 3 and 8) together as a single pattern piece, so your knot cannot be opened as shown in the book, right? It's brilliant, though it certainly didn't make the construction process easier. Respect!
lin3arossa; yes that is correct; those pieces are joined by a bridge of fabric and are knotted before joining the bodice together, and cannot be un-knotted. It does make it more difficult, but that is the way the pattern is drafted and I decided I wanted to rise to the challenge and not to take the easy route of cutting them apart 🙂
Thank you!
Love the shoes, love the dress, particularly all the seams that point to the neckline. Not a MP fan and, strangely, the knots are my least favourite bit of the dress. They look great head on, but not from the side. Mind, I've not been around many statement necklaces – I hang with mostly non-fashion oriented retirees – so maybe I'm just unused to the look. I can understand that you take more satisfaction in the more difficult challenges. I don't think that makes you masochistic! But perhaps nice to do something a bit easier next time…
This is beautiful, and so figure-flattering for you. Everything I've seen from the Pattern Magic books impresses me… And this is one of my favourites so far!
Just absolutely gorgeous! The knotted neckline puts the focal point to your face and takes the place of a too-hot statement necklace or scarf in the summer. I'm buying the book. Jeannie
I'm speechless in awe – not the knots, I am a bit with Shelley on this one, but the flawless seaming in the bodice and the inside finish….you keeping upping the game Carolyn, can you slow down? AND are those CLOUDS I see in your BLUE sky? and judging by the pics. was there a BREEZE? – I'm only jealous we are freezing and snow is heading this way. I see you got pockets in – does the original design have pockets?
Wow! So cool! It is gorgeous on you!
Gotta love Monty Python. Especially in search of the holy grail. A quote for all occasions. Oh yeah love your dress too:)
I really like this. Such a great design and challenge. I also love the colour.
Beautiful. I love the subtle color you used as well. I'm always amazed by your pattern magic creations.
Never have the words 'deceptively simple' seemed so apt. What a great dress, those knots are pure genius.
I love your ambition, and your hand. This is so elegant and unique, and the minimalism of the fabric suits it perfectly. J'adore.
ps. I doubt you are a masochist as much as someone who likes a challenge. It's nice to push yourself! The feeling of accomplishment is priceless.
Gorgeous. You picked just the right fabric to show off the design.
Wow, you rose the to challenge beautifully! I admire your perseverance.
And what is wrong with being a masochist? Didn't cognitive scientists prove that we move skills into long-term memory better if we try and fail at first, before we master it? Do we know the optimal ratio of failure to success yet? Are does it vary by person and skill?
It's an impressive sew! If challenging yourself with masterpiece at terns is a pleasure, then why not?
From what we can see on your blog, you have many beautiful clothes you've sewn yourself. So it's not like you are under pressure to get a workable wardrobe made up, you've already got one! Therefore you are free to explore new ideas without at nagging feeling, that you really should be sewing basics.
I love to hear about difficult makes and your comment about Advanced/plus dificile made me laugh out loud. Lovely dress and so chic. You will never see anyone else with something like that. Beautiful.
Cada dÃa me sorprendes más Carolyn, si no viviésemos tan lejos te pedirÃa un vestido igual para mi. Es precioso.
Beautiful!
Your dress is lovely 🙂
You have done a fantastic job of transferring a somewhat unusual set of designs into a very wearable dress. It must have taken ages to tie those knots and hide the ends! The end result is lovely.
It looks very beautiful! I like the elegance of it. 🙂
This looks really great! I like the radiating lines in the front and the back is very appealing.
Thanks for being honest about it being challenging to make! Your dress turned out really well – nice work!
Wow, this dress is just stunning!! It is acutally on my to do list as well (if I will ever get my sewing mojo back…), an I´ll come back to your post for the tips. Beautiful work! Marlise
Impressive!!!
What a fun, unique and uber impressive sewing project. I'd be stupidly pleased as well.
This unique dress is so perfectly executed – a job very well done. And it looks terrific on you, so flattering. Even with the bumpy knots, which I happen to like. Love it!
I think I would find those knots too challenging…my head aches if there are too many pieces! But i know what you mean about the satisfaction of completing something difficult. The dress was worth the time that went into it – I especially like that you never have to think of what necklace to wear! I also like the shape. Easy breezy but not baggy 🙂 my favourite!
You make me laugh!! And that is gorgeous – huge congrats on the results!
Before reading I thought you made a necklace from linen, and I though, wow very cool idea… until I saw what was all about, pattern magic thing, and from that moment on I am unable to close my jaw…and it dropped further when I watched your new shoes. Aren´t they the perfect colour and shape?
Once more, hats off to you. I wonder what the "easy" thing will be!
Gotta love Monty Python for providing you with the perfect quote! Your dress is a work of art and a wonderful combination of simplicity and detail. I love the knots and have long admired this pattern but wondered how difficult the execution would be in reality…now I know!!
Thank you so much JenC 🙂
They are like a built-in bib style necklace, very sculptural, love it!
Lovely just lovely!
Congratulations on a fantastic & unique dress – your skill & talents showcased very well. I definitely need to follow your lead and challenge myself with difficult projects!
Stunning! I've never seen anything like this dress.
Wow! This does look cool…
simple enough to be worn, yet cool enough to be loved!
Wow! Gorgeous!
Now THAT is a neckline! Great dress.
Well done Carolyn. I am not so sure that you are a masochist, but you certainly rise to a challenge. This would make a stunning basis for a wedding gown.
Carolyn- this. is. fierce. I love the clean lines of this dress but then you notice the pop of awesome at the collar. Absolutely stunning!
Oh, that is awesome! Love, love, love it!
That dress is great! But should a lady such as yourself really be quoting Monty Python?
I love the most intricate dressmaking instructions and can read them for pure enjoyment, like some people read People Magazine.
Beryl; I'm sorry if that quote offended you. I guess I am part of the Monty Python generation… I have memories of boys in my school who could and did recite whole passages off by heart; all lunchtime long!
Lovely dress! I noticed the collar first when I saw the photo and I thought it was a necklace. I really like this style. Well done for taking on the challenge and making such a good job of it.
Wow! What a dress! I have this book, though haven't used it so far.. Your dress looks very inspirational.. but after reading about difficulty – now I know what Not to consider for a first try of Pattern Magic..
Btw, I love Monty Python too 🙂
Your dress is interesting and amazing…how do those knots feel against your neckline?
Perfect choice of fabric Carolyn I can't imagine this made in anything else -given the nature of the knots. She turned out a w e s o m e. Love it when you get stuck into the Pattern Magic stuff.
Wow. This is one of those designs I've always considered too labour intensive to make for real. And too fussy if one had to consider edge finishing.
So, I'm very impressed to see you've just gone ahead and made it. Very inspiring stuff!
Beautiful! I have wanted to make this pattern for ages, and have a similar coloured linen in my satash somewhere… I bow to your patience in making this loook so fabulous.
Well done, what a masterpiece.
I really can't express how impressed I am. You quoted Monty Python!
Oh, and the dress is pretty spiffy too. ( I have been dribbling on that pattern for some weeks. I still haven't mustered the courage to try it!)
This is wonderful!
I gather that if you "weave" artistically nodes having the dress, then each different person that makes a different dress … I do not know if this makes sense to you …. if I do that same dress with the same pattern .. my dress may be different for the disposition of my knots??? Oh, Lady! That's so clever!
Oh my goodness….this is one of the pretties dresses I've seen that you have made. I love it. All of your things are beautiful, but this is extra special.
I might have named this post "Ring My Bells". Oh goodness, what a dress! It's beautiful as all of your clothes are. What an accomplishment and a true statement garment. Congratulations!
What a gorgeous dress – this is such a fun pattern to sit and dream about from the book, but it's especially nice to see it made in real life! I agree – the time-intensive projects are so very satisfying (if they turn out well). I just need to compensate by making a bunch of t-shirts or leggings afterwards!
Great work! I tried this detail out previously on the hemline of a simple A line skirt, but you've re-ignited by interest in trying out again on the neckline of a dress.
this is beautiful! i love the fabirc and the colour and everything it is just perfect! i am in awe of its amazingness and have some serious dress envy right now.
WANT TO MAKE