Tag Archives: Dress

a special lace dress

hello!  Recently my lovely niece J married her long-time man and so of course I had to make a new dress for myself for the occasion…  I was vaguely toying with the idea of shopping for fabric before I remembered two things: 1. as everyone in our family knows, J’s favourite colour is famously yellow, and 2.  I have a piece of very yellow, and happily wedding worthy fabric in my stash already!

 

I bought this neon-bright yellow guipure lace from Mood Fabrics in New York City back in 2019, when I was over there with my friend Yoshimi… we met with other sewing ladies and they took us on a fabulous fabric shopping spree!  Such fun.  I wrote about it on my blog here…  Originally I had envisioned making a little mini skirt from the lace but when the fabric was rolled out on the counter it turned out there was a pretty large chunk of the border cut out, so the salesperson basically threw that part of the fabric in for free.  Meaning, I ended up with a lot longer length than I had needed.  And obviously I couldn’t waste the extra bit by making that little mini, so it sat, awaiting some other project that could make use of it.Et voila!

I used the Closet Core Ceilo pattern with a few small modifications… namely; spicing the back yoke and back pieces together to eliminate that seam, including inseam pockets in the side seams,  and I also cut it to be a bit more flared.  Oh, and I also traced a size up  – or maybe two? can’t remember now – for that fashionable oversized look.  The hemline, which is of course the natural border of the lace, was determined by how much length I could get, and I also managed to get the sleeves on a border.  It only took a little bit of pattern Tetris but I’m thrilled that I achieved what is one of my primary aims with any sewing project, which is to have minimal leftovers!

My dress is underlined completely with a pinkish/coffee coloured silk chartreuse that I bought from Fabulous Fabrics originally.  I basted the lace and silk layers together within the seam allowance all around except for the side seams below the pockets, and then overlocked the edges before continuing to treat the two layers as one.  The side seams below the pockets I stitched the layers separately and actually the lace is arranged so there’s not a “seam” in this part, but the lace motifs are arranged and hand stitched carefully so you can’t see a seam here.

I cut the pockets and neckline facings from a natural cotton linen that I’ve had in the stash for years, saved specifically for this same sort of purpose.

I chose this because the silk charmeuse wasn’t going to be stable enough in these areas – actually the lace is very heavy, far heavier than it looks!  I cut the lace front and back to have side seam extensions along the pocket area and stitched it down carefully to the pockets inside.  So, when you’re wearing the dress the lace appears to go all the way inside the pockets, no flash of offensive beige to be seen, so it looks really nice.

The seams allowances around the neckline, especially the shoulder seam area here are seriously bulky, and I trimmed, clipped and understitched aggressively to get everything to sit nice and flat!  I also went back later and stitched the facing to the silk underlining as far around and as close as I could get to the shoulder seams.

I’m including a picture of the happy couple because, although I did not make the dress, I did alter it to fit her and also did some minor repairs.  This took three separate fittings and I took precisely zero photos of the process or anything.  My only excuse is that I was also working on my own dress and stressing a little bit that I wasn’t going to get it all done on time.

Thanks to its oversized and loose nature, my dress was so comfy to wear and to dance in, and I was so happy about that!  and just saying, I only wore these high heeled sandals for the ceremony and photos.  For the reception on the same property I went to our car and switched over to my white sandshoes with little socks, brought for this very purpose.  Much warmer, and fabulously comfortable for dancing!  I also wore my new pink wool Sienna jacket for the cooler temperatures that came as evening fell too, but no pictures of that I’m afraid. Anyway, I hope I can get more use our of this dress, which actually turned out more lovely than I thought.  🙂

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a cosy new dress and a backpack

hello!  long time no see!  I’ve been very busy lately, being a diligent little jet setter and living out of one suitcase for an entire month …  I do have a travel wardrobe post planned but it will take me little while!

Anyway, I made a new dress before I left and took it away with me. I’ve worn it quite a lot already! and managed to take a few photos out in the wild.  Not that top photo though.  The other ones  🙂

babysitting my littlest grandson G.. I knitted his beanie early last year (posted here)

The pattern is the new Mirri pattern by Fibremood, a delightfully quick and easy thing to make; and I used a lightweight cotton corduroy bought from Spotlight just before covid lockdown if I remember correctly.  I loved the pretty bright florals on black background, and luckily had “just” enough for this pattern.

feels pretty good even in 36C heat!

Surprisingly, it reads as kinda “brown” from a distance, probably because of the large-ish amount of orange and black merging together.  Honestly I did not expect that effect!

The Mirri is supposed to be a summer pattern, of course; since the new European summer patterns are all released during our, southern hemisphere, winter… however I can still usually manage to wrangle something together that’s suitable for me, somehow, anyhow.  As it happens, I’ve found this dress has been that rare happy and successful marriage between summer pattern/winter fabric… it’s loose enough to be breezy and therefore cool in hot weather, but then can be worn over tights and a warm merino top to keep you cosy in cold wintery weather too.  Versatile!

It’s such an easy to make design there’s really not much to say.  The neckline is finished with a bias cut strip and the pattern includes a lovely deep hemline facing, which I edged with the same orange linen bias binding.  I think this looks so pretty.  Designwise, it has deep side pockets and sleeve cuffs.  Hmm, that’s it, really…

worn over my indigo dyed, linen Pauline Alice patterns Mestre shirt, blogged here.

And, I made something else new on the eve of our departure overseas… a backpack.  I’ve never really worn a backpack much during our hiking travels but decided it was high time I got one so poor Craig didn’t have to carry everything in his backpack!  I used this tutorial called “DIY 3-pocket casual backpack” by a Korean channel, Tendersmile Handmade.  This was an absolute terrific tutorial, very easy to follow and I loved the final result.

I made mine from a tomato red water-resistant stuff that I bought many years ago, I think from a Morrison clothing company fabric sale.  I already had some white waterproof plastic fabric, leftover from when I made a whole lot of luggage for some of my family for Christmas one year (here).  I also interlined with some wool wadding between the two layers for a bit of padding. All these materials were from stash, and I bought the strapping, zip and plastic hardware from Spotlight.

I altered the dimensions by a bit; specifically making mine 10cm “higher”, and so made the side pockets a little higher to compensate proportionally.  My zip was also a different length, so all the dimensions of the side, bottom and top pieces are different actually.  It really wasn’t all that difficult to work out though.

I couldn’t get a zip like theirs that zipped from the middle out, mine zips from each outside edge in.  This wasn’t ideal, but didn’t make a lot of difference.  I also stitched the lining down firmly to the seam allowance inside to keep it firmly in place as far as I could possibly reach; the bottom and top edges, and part of the side edges. The tutorial doesn’t tell you to do this but I imagine the lining would just kind of float around inside the bag in an annoying way if you didn’t anchor it to the bag in a few key positions.

The backpack worked out really great! and would have been actually perfect if it had been for one small modification… to have a shoulder strap as well so I could carry it comfortably as a cross body bag if I wanted to.  I desired this variation so greatly that since I returned home I did indeed pop off to Spotlight for all the necessary bits and added one.  This can be removed if not in use.  As well, I added a “made in 2025″label, that I’d forgotten when I first made it.  Voila!

So this bag did absolutely great duty and I enjoyed making and wearing and using it.  It passed the waterproof test on one day of continuous rain and all my stuff inside remained perfectly dry.  My water bottle fitted in the side pocket just fine.  Having three internal pockets worked well for how I like to arrange my stuff.  I did think it possibly couldn’t carry a superheavy load, but then I wouldn’t want to do that anyway.

 

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a Minä Perhonen dress and some new clogs

hello!  I’ve made a whole new outfit recently… it’s not so often that I can present a new, head-to-toe handmade outfit like this!  

I bought this Minä Perhonen hessian on a previous trip to Tokyo, and after a suitable period of stash marination picked out Burda dress pattern, Burda 07/2018; 118.  One I’ve used before, a true goodie based on its very tiny fabric requirements.  btw, did you know that this very Finnish name actually belongs to a Japanese label?  I didn’t; but I’d done some investigations prior to our trip and discovered this surprising fact.  Of course then I had to visit the eponymous store and spent an agonising 30-60 minutes trying to choose just one of the beautiful fabrics.  Difficult, indeed.

I settled on this cotton hessian with a multi coloured print of overlapping ovals.  I loved this combination of colours; violet, duck-egg blue, teal blue, navy blue, lemon yellow and apricot.  I thought it fitted in very nicely with my personal colour palette of true- to deep autumn.

Because of the wide weave and slightly rough texture I opted to line it, the first time I have done so for this pattern although the design is supposed to be lined.  And now I have done so I can reliably report that the lining instructions are pretty sparse, bordering on unhelpful.  They start out with one or two seams and then suddenly say something like “add lining”… ok maybe I’m exaggerating, but not by much!  I ended up stitching the bulk of it in by hand. Of course this results in a very neat and tidy finish.  I cut it it purposely to be a little generous, so I’m not concerned that those hand stitches are going to come under strain.

I cut the facings from a greige medium-weight linen from the stash.  I used a different griege lightweight cotton from stash to bind the hem raw edge before stitching it by hand.  The pale pink lining fabric was also in the stash, so my only required purchase was a new, “natural” 60cm invisible zip.  I’m loving shopping the stash as much as I can!  Gradually chipping away at it, honestly when I do get down to zero I’m going to throw a party!

I made a size larger than my usual for some reason.  Not sure why I did this now because it’s a tad too boxy.  Also, while the print is absolutely gorgeous, the hand of the fabric is both quite heavy and drape-y, a combination that I don’t really love all that much.  Definitely not going to stop me from wearing it though!

Here I am wearing it for its maiden voyage, during me-made May.

Aaaand, I made a new pair of shoes! and fortuitously they go beautifully with my new dress.  This style of shoe should look pretty familiar to anyone who regularly reads my blog, since I once again used a kit from leather needle thread.  This particular woven, three-colour style is a new one though.  I had lots of fun making these, as usual!

I have a kinda embarrassing confession though… it was in making these ones that I finally realised that I’d mistakenly been putting in the buckle upside down for some of my previous clogs, whoopsies.  They are the correctly way up here, and for my most recent black ones too.  My mustard clogs and teal clogs were upside down… fortunately it was actually pretty easy to unpick the pieces and reinsert the buckle in the right way around.  I’m such a dolt, because I’d always felt they looked a little funny… well it all makes perfect sense now and the clogs look so much better!

at left, incorrect… at right, correct!

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dazzling dazzle

hello!  I made a fun new little dress…

this is the new Fibremood Dazzle pattern, which is actually a top pattern but I lengthened it to be a dress, simply because I had enough of this gorgeous fabric to do so!

 

I bought this stunning cotton ikat in Stone Mountain and Daughters, a popular fabric store in San Francisco while I was there on holiday with Yoshimi in 2019.  Nearly six years ago now, wow, I can hardly believe how time flies!  Well, at least I finally found a good reason to cut into this gorgeous stuff!

I cut the collar and cuffs from a neutral linen that I’ve had in my stash even longer.  I think this is from Calico and Ivy originally; it’s been very useful over the years for just cutting pockets, facings, and other bits and bobs that require a sturdy and neutral coloured fabric.

I added inseam pockets to the dress, of course!  and I’m pretty sure I lengthened the sleeves a bit too, so I could turn the sleeve cuffs up properly.  I like the look of a turned up cuff, and prefer this look to a plain, added on cuff, if you know what I mean.  I usually secure them in the turned up position by stitching-in-the-ditch at the underarm seam of the sleeves and cuffs; and sew a few firm stitches at the outer edge inside the cuff and out of sight.  This seems to work pretty well for keeping the cuffs permanently turned out.

The front neckline is a polo style neckline, but slightly different from the usual in that it is stitched in a V-neck style, rather than the two sides aligning in the centre front.  Gives it a slightly more sporty look.  I love this dress, primarily because of the fabric, I have to admit! and have already worn it multiple times.  Little loose dresses that I can wear for walking on the beach are my go-to nowadays and it’s fun finding new patterns for this purpose.  This one has ticked all the boxes quite nicely!

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water lily dress, a raincoat, and a stripey shirt

hello!

I’ve been making a few more things lately…

first up; a dress!  I bought this screen printed linen a few years ago from the Injalak Arts Centre, the design is Mandem (Water Lily)  by the indigenous artist Eva Nganjmirra.  The pattern I used is an old favourite by now, Vogue 2900.

 

Something charming about this screenprint, I discovered; was the designer’s “signature” of sorts…of course, I had to carefully cut around this and place it some where semi-prominent.

I decided the pieces had to be highlighted in some way more than just mere seamlines, and utilised a method I have written about previously here… namely this is a bias cut strip that is inlaid over the pieces before joining together.  I had a small length of mustard linen, leftover from this dress, that I used for this purpose.

Unfortunately there wasn’t enough to do every single seam and edge like I have done in previous examples of this method but I just did as many of the more prominent bodice seams before I ran out of it.

I know I’ve used this pattern quite frequently but it really is such a beautiful dress design that I don’t see myself every tiring of it any time soon.  Of course I really should branch out more and I’m resolving to try more new patterns this year and not fall back so often on the old favourites.  In the meantime though, some of my recent as yet unblogged projects have failed this resolution already whoops.

I think my only, somewhat trivial criticism of this design is its lack of shape in the waist area.  I have a pretty high waist to hip ratio that isn’t really suited to this drop-waist design however I still stubbornly persist in wearing it.  Sometimes I think I should try to modify it to look less “boxy” but the bodice pieces are so beautifully proportioned in themselves I’m not really game to fiddle about with it.

 

I wore this along with my me-made mustard clogs out to a meeting with friends recently and managed to grab a quick street shot.  I’ve always liked to get a real world photo the things I’ve made if possible, but it’s sometimes difficult.  If the coast is clear, like this time, I can quickly prop my phone up against my bag on the footpath and take a sneaky timed photo!

My little grandson G randomly ran up to join my while I was taking my more staged photos, which was happily fortuitous since he happened to be wearing a little T-shirt I made for him recently using leftovers from another, s yet unblogged, project to appear here soon.  Once I get my act together!

I used Butterick 5510, a great little pattern that I should probably buy in a bigger size now!  The blue and white striped jersey was tossed out by my friend N during her fabric purge recently.  It’s quite nice stuff, if you don’t mind the suffering that comes with matching stripes in cutting and piecing.  Fortunately I don’t mind this toooooo much.  Maybe just a little, but only if it’s just every now and then.

I lenthened the T-shirt considerably because it’s really way too short otherwise. I don’t know if all my kiddies are just super tall or not but I’ve always found commercial patterns to be ridiculously short and wide.

Please note careful stripe matching.  Oh, another problem with this pattern was the rather small neckline.  After cutting it and subsequently realising it was actually pretty tiny, I recut the neckline, cut some extra neckline edging and pieced it.  One join is pretty good, the other less so… I’m pointing the two out here.  Hopefully they’re not too terrible!  I’m pretty sure G doesn’t mind though, and at least it fits over his head!

I also some leftover raincoat fabric from when I made my sister in law Sandi’s Mundering raincoat, back here; so I drafted and ran up a new raincoat for T.  He’s grown out of his yellow one, blogged here, which will be passed on to G this year.  I lined it with the breathable sporting fabric, a length of which I bought for raincoat vents years ago.  The zip, cord and eyelets happened to be in my stash already too, hurrah.

 

The pockets are just patch pockets. All seams are sealed on the underside using seam sealing wax that I bought for this purpose years ago from the camping and outdoor outfitter store, BCF.

I think he likes it!  He looks pretty cute in it anyway, and I think it turned out a pretty good fit considering I drafted it just using one of his T-shirts.  Phew!

 

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a checquered tale of a checkered dress

I’ve made a simple little dress…  Now I have to admit that such apparent simplicity is actually the anticlimactic outcome of a long, convoluted sewing-and-unpicking, journey which I’m a little embarrassed to relate.  This is one of the failed projects from 2024 which I mentioned in my roundup, and just recently got around to fixing up.

I’d bought this quite nice, slightly spongy, heavily textured cotton check a long time ago now,  almost certainly from a Melbourne trip.  I’m pretty sure it was Tessuti and further have a feeling it was reasonably expensive thus why I really wanted to make something worthwhile from it.

Iteration Number One:

I started out making the Original Digby Cleo dress.  This is a lovely and feminine design, which involved stitching a LOT of self-made, bias-cut channelling for lengths of elastic, to mimic the look of a shirred bodice.  I had high hopes and the result was very pretty, but sadly in the end it was just too young-looking to suit me.  Cassie modelled it for me for these pictures here, but didn’t really want it either, and I wanted to make the fabric into something I could wear.  Out with the unpicker!

Taking off all those long (long) lengths of bias cut channelling took quite a long time, made even more painful with the memory of how carefully I had stitched them on in the first place to perfectly line up the channels with the lines of checks, as well as switching up threads depending on whether I was stitching on a black row or a cream row, this additionally making it more difficult to see the stitches I was unpicking.   I know, I wonder about my own sanity too, sometimes…

Anyway.  Iteration Number Two was essentially the same dress sans the elasticated channels.  I reused the same shoulder straps to be a halter neckline and allowed the otherwise unaltered dress to hang like so.  I actually quite liked it like this and wore it with a little T-shirt underneath a few times.

However, after about six months of this I finally realised what the fabric really wanted to be. I believe fabrics do tell you what they want to be, even if it takes a little time.  Some are shy and take years to let you know, but you just need to trust in the fabric, let it sit there quietly, and it will eventually let you know what its final form should be.  Out with the unpicker once again!

In the end, Iteration Number Three, the final iteration, was very straightforward to achieve.  I settled upon a modified version of a dress from the Japanese pattern book Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, specifically dress R.  My final version is more narrowed at the top end, and with the yoke also narrowed in width and the neckline substantially more “filled in”.  I also left off the sleeves through having absolutely no more of the check fabric anyway, and finished the armscyes with self-made black bias binding.  I removed the original inseam pockets – and a big thank you to past me for overlocking all the raw edges separately from each other! – and repositioned them appropriately for the dress’s slightly new form.  The yoke is black cotton denim, cut from the leftovers from my wide-leg jeans from last year, and lined with plain black poplin.  I did decorative white topstitching just for fun, and added a completely frivolous and not-useful-at-all coin pocket to the front yoke, also for fun.  I also reused the “made in 2024” tag that it had from its inception.

Small anecdote; I’d ordered new “made in 2025” labels from the same place Intensely Distracted, back in December.  They were taking a long time to arrive, and I was just starting to wonder what on earth had happened to them when they finally showed up 2 days ago.  Attached to the envelope was a big green “Opened for inspection by ABF” sticker, also inside was a little note explaining that my goods were opened and inspected by Australian Border Force and found to contain no problematic components so were being forwarded to me in full.  Amazing that this very innocuous packet of sew in labels was suspicious enough to get yoinked out for a personal inspection…

Anyway, the dress!  I’m so happy with its final iteration.  I feel like such a bold check is most perfectly suited to a very simplified style like this, much more age appropriate, not too fussy and a lot more me.  And it feels so lovely and light to wear.  I absolutely love it!  I first wore it just the other day, when I took my oldest grandson Arthur shopping for his 5th birthday present.  I know, 5 already!  I can hardly believe it.  We had such a lovely morning shopping together, just the two of us, choosing something he liked.  It was so funny because he liked literally everything! and it was actually quite difficult to narrow it down to just two things.  Then after we got home we spent a bit of time playing with his new toys and it was such a nice time.  I love being a Granny!

 please excuse the totally gratuitous Clara pic…

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pink gingham

hello! I’m pleased that I made productive use of the Christmas break and managed to make a new thing…

I used the very last of my “made in 2024” tags in the little breast pocket.  Honestly, the dress was actually cut out in and partially made in 2024.  So, 2024 or 2025?  It’s kind of a “saddle” project really, spreading itself from last year to this one.  I think I can use the tag with a clear conscience. 🙂

I used our own Carolyn & Cassie Pattern Co. Yallingup dress pattern, which I love wearing during summer. It’s the perfect breezy casual beach dress, imho.  I used a rather intense hot pink gingham-printed Japanese cotton, bought using a Fabulous Fabrics birthday voucher from my friends.  Also, please excuse me while I go and correct my recent retrospective post, I forgot that this fabric was also purchased new last year, whoops!  At least all my purchased fabrics got used in the year they were bought.

I laid the dress pieces on the cross, and the front overlay on the bias, and used some of the leftover bits to cut extensions to the front overlay so the ties are a bit longer, about 10cm or so.  I really like them this longer length.

As per our pattern, I flat felled the side seams, which I always think looks really nice.  You can see here that I used red thread to sew the dress up; this is because it was in my stash already and I didn’t want to buy new thread.  I thought this would be fine, and it is really.  I hand-stitched the hem.

A casual passerby would never see any of the bias binding finishes on the inside of the dress, but these give me a lot of joy too.  I bias-bound the pocket edges, and the back neckline and armhole edges are bound according to the pattern.  Gingham makes the prettiest bias binding! Because of this I actually cut up the entirety of the leftovers and made it into bias binding that I can use on a future project, so please look out for that!

It was hideously windy on the beach this morning which makes the above pictures a realistic portrayal of my day, however it does make everything look a little wild.  Thus, a still picture where the dress is not being blasted to bits.  Honestly, the things I do…

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Christmas prep

Hello, Christmas makes!!  To be honest though my output is quite modest this year, I haven’t gone overboard with the making of Christmas gifts unlike previous years.   Just a few little things…

I’d mostly made this black felt bunny a few years ago, using the Luna Lapin pattern book.  He was kinda my first test of the pattern before making a camel brown bunny for Arthur, blogged here, but I didn’t do too bad a job if I say so myself.  So this year I decided to complete him as a present for Gilbert.

I made his outfit using various bits and pieces as usual; the shirt and buttons were an old shirt of Tim’s… and I used the same buttons for his eyes, the chinos are a nice piece of cotton twill that I plan to use for a pair for myself sometime… hopefully I didn’t cut too large a chunk for that to happen! and his little waistcoat was from a small scrap of fabric that I discovered in a bag of leftovers given to me by my mother-in-law.

I also made Arthur’s bunny a new outfit.  I didn’t have his here to model it so Gilbert’s bunny has been roped in for the job.  It’s a summer outfit; comprising a Hawaiian shirt and board shorts.

I had to include this picture of the shirt-making burrito!  the instructions don’t have this but I figured why not make it as neat as possible.  I used sew-in press studs for the shirt in lieu of buttons; they’re just easier and you don’t have to worry about ruining your tiny little shirt with a bad buttonhole.  The fabric is leftover from my first Myosotis dress.  The board shorts are white linen and blue linen that I dyed myself using a natural indigo  dye bath.  Actually, the leftovers from my recently made Mestre shirt.

 

Every year my family always exchanges some sort of homemade food treat too… my effort this year is gingerbread star biscuits to be dunked into tea or coffee.  I made a little more that 160ish gingerbread stars and pondered how to decorate them, finally deciding upon an easy option of polka dots.  Yes, I’m super into polka dots at the moment for some reason.  Oh, and did I say “easy”? haha. For some reason this very simple concept took an entire afternoon and I’ve still got a numb spot on my finger from the pressure of operating the icing contraption thingie.  I’m low key disappointed that so much work resulted in actually quite ordinary results,  hmff.  They are sadly not at all spectacular, but are definitely very yummy and I hope everyone likes them!

In other making news, not related to Christmas pressies; remember this dress?  I made it using our own Karijini pattern and a doona cover.  yes I still love it in principal, but had tired a little of its soft inoffensive colourway and last month subjected it to the unforgiving depths of the dye pot.  It now looks a bit more eye-catching, ahem.  I actually love it, and it feels like a new dress in my wardrobe, which is nice.

 

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