I have made a new dress.
And here I am wearing it to scramble about on the rocks, just like a, er, crab….?
…..?
well, it’s a tenuous little link!!
I made it using a new-to-me pattern Vogue 1317. I have admired previous versions of this dress on shams and more recently Catherine, and my own version has been cut out for months and getting worked on in miserable dribs and drabs for waaaaaay too long! But it is finally finished. Like a lot of Chado Ralph Rucci designs, this is not a make-it-up-in-one-day garment 🙂
The fabric I used is a lovely silk/linen mix from Fabulous Fabrics, bought for me as a Christmas present by Mum and Dad. The shade is a gorgeous deep, grey-y, green-y blue, like gunmetal, or the colour of the ocean under a thundery sky. It’s lovely stuff. I’m kinda tempted to go into Fabulous Fabrics and buy up every colour…. must resist….
I must say I really love this silhouette and this style; the bodice is flatteringly streamlined, the sleeves are a nice shape and length, and the skirt is flippily cute and figure flattering. I’m happy with how it turned out, I love the (modified) pockets!
I did make a few tiny alterations to the pattern when I made it up; and when I use this pattern again I will make even more changes.
The changes I did make:
Even just looking at that front skirt piece I thought that the pockets are situated too close to the centre front, which would lend a sort of hands-over-the-crotch appearance to when you put your hands in the pockets. So I widened the skirt front piece by about 2.5cm (1″) on each side. This alteration also enabled me to make the pockets slightly bigger, mine are about 1cm wider and 1.5cm deeper each. Now they are situated over my upper leg and I think they are perfectly big enough to be usable 🙂
The front centre front bodice slit looked a tad low-cut for my taste, so I sewed up the bodice front and the corresponding facing pieces by an extra 4cm. Now the opening hits at a more flattering and modest point.
I spliced the skirt pieces together to cut a three piece skirt lining (one front, two back pieces with a CB seam), using dark grey polyacetate lining fabric. The pattern doesn’t call for a lining, but if there was not one then in a windy situation…. see?
I think a skirt lining is imperative 🙂
I cut the waist ties to be much much longer, because I like the idea of wrapping them around my waist and tying them at the back. I prefer a back-tie, over a front-tie sitting in a big bow right in the middle of my tummy!
I also added about 2.5cm to the skirt length, and reinforced the zip stitching lines with narrow strips of self fabric cut on the grain for stability.
Changes I did not make, but would if I was making this up again:
The inner corner of the bodice front, at the small circle point, is, I hate to say it, badly designed, there’s just no other way of putting it. The dress as it is is fine for sitting at a desk, working on a computer all day, or say, going to a concert, a movie or the ballet. However I want to wear my dress all day, for the kind of activities I do everyday, including hanging the washing on the line, putting groceries in the fridge and pantry; in short, activities that require me to raise my arms above my head! Lifting my arms over my head does not work as smoothly as it should.
The next time I make this pattern up, I will re-draft both the front and back bodice pieces to be roughly more like this illustration… opening up the underarm at the inner corner to let the sleeve sit out horizontally at the cutting stage. This will help eliminate that unnecessary strain on the fabric at that turning point.
The hems are finished with an interfaced facing, which is turned in, double top-stitched and trimmed close to the stitching. This is quite nice, the double top-stitching matches up visually with the copious quantities of double top-stitching that is all over the rest of the garment; but I don’t know if I love it. I might brainstorm something different for next time.
But these are mere petty quibbles. I do like my new dress!
min 11C, max 21C, fine and sunny
Dress; Vogue 1317, dark blue/grey silk/linen mix
(not seen): handknit socks
Boots; Enrico Antinori, from Zomp shoes
Description:
Sizing:
it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished
sewing it?
the instructions easy to follow?
did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The style is very chic; a funky modern interpretation of a vintage silhouette.
There are quite a few things I do not like; that I intend to change on future iterations of this pattern; and yes, there will be more!
The shape of the bodice front and back, at the small circle point, is, I hate to say it, but badly designed, there’s just no other way of putting it. The shape of the pieces here means that lifting your arms above your head while wearing the dress does not work as comfortably as it should here.
Used:
alterations or any design changes you made:
I stitched the front bodice and corresponding facing pieces seam to be 4cm longer; the opening now hits at a more flattering and modest point on me.
I cut the skirt pieces about 2.5cm longer each, and lined the skirt with a lining that does not have that wide open flap at the front; for reasons that become obvious when you sit down and cross your knees in this dress.
you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Now, just because it always gives me a big laugh when other sewing bloggers do this, like Jilly Be and chenille; I give you… the simple casual elegance of the Vogue pose! Now this I think can claim to be crab-like!
source
Beautiful dress and I love your pose at the end! Saw your earlier post, I think Selfish Seamstress had a similar problem a while ago…. Looks like you've had some good advice though. Hope it gets sorted out soon.
great post, I think that dress pattern has a lot of problems and that is why I bought it but it still sits in my pile of items to do. So glad you worked thru all the issues and I can follow your suggestions in the future. The color is lovely on you but the best part is your last photo – priceless! and the very best pattern website pose to mimic, I love it.
LOL! Love the Vogue-ess pose! Crablike, indeed! Anyways, the dress is divine on you! Such a lovely fabric and tie at the back is indeed much better. It all seems so tricky, esp the sleeves part, it seems, but i do like the neckline slit, and seeing the inside of it how you did the facing for that 🙂
Love that last photo! Thanks for taking the time to share your love of sewing with us.
Glad to see you back on your horse! I think the bow at the back is much more flattering. I love it. Jo x
I have loved this dress since the pattern came out as well. I see your point re the arm issue. Tight arms and shoulders are a pet hate of mine. I really like your version and your attempt at the models ridiculous pose.
Hehe, I love the last photo!
The dress looks lovely on you!
Beautiful dress. Great use of a gorgeous fabric.
I love your dress:it's beautiful. Maybe you'll have to save it for going out & make another for everyday wear? Love your crab-like pose.
I love your dress, it looks great and you look wonderful in it. Thanks for the review, I'll definitely use your tips when I make my version of the dress (one day).
VOgue pose – hihihi, I love You Carolyn !!
I love natural fabrics,its a lovely colour with a subtle sheen, this dress is so beautiful. Fun pic also.
Fantastic!
I do love your interpretation of this pattern. This is a big improvement on the original.
Hehe. Love the final photo. Your Mum and Dad know you well. That beautiful sludgy colour is soooo you. Weird sleeve design as you say! Good luck with the copy cat loser blogger.
This is a gorgeous colour and style. You are right about the pocket placement and they do now sit is a more stylish location.
Making the sleeves more functional will let you drive a car without ripping the sleeves. It just makes more sense to redraft the sleeves, as you've suggested.
It's a gorgeous dress and suits you to a T.
Don't resist – that fabric is gorgeous! And you have used it to it's best. Love that dress. Great job.
Gorgeous!
Heehee, why do they get models to do such silly poses?! But at least one can see the garment on this one, and I much prefer a photo to a drawing which can be most misleading! Anyhow, I love the colour and shape of your dress. I think these designs are quite advanced, which makes it seem strange to me that there should be a drafting issue. You will have to save it 'for best'!
Fantastic post!! Thank you for all the hard work you do explaining your processes. I love everything about your dress – alterations, colour, fabric choice and photo shoots are great. I have this pattern too, so it's great to see how it is made, and thanks for the heads up on 'what not to do' in the pattern. Love it!!!!
Ha,ha! Simple casual elegance! Yeah! I don´t know who came up with the idea of models posing like that! Poor girls!
When I first saw this pattern I thought that first, it was too elegant for my dayly life and second, too dificult but I don´t know how you do this, it turned out to be elegant, but not too much as a party-dress. I think you used the right colour for this, and as I told you over at Flick the texture is very intesting. Tell your parents they have great taste choosing presents!
Hmmmm…. why would anyone crouch like that in front of a high rise plate glass window? Interesting pose for marketing a pattern … I like the narrow V and the shape of the dress, it is quite lovely. But I'm with you – being able to lift my arms up is totally important. I don't like clothes that I have to change out of to do normal things. I think the bow in the back is an improvement as well. Lovely stuff.
Wonderful dress! I love everything about the dress, it is lovely on you. And the last picture…you're almost killing me, too cute.
Lovely dress! That last pose cracks me up. I'm drawn to patterns with that kind of shoulder, but always have the same problem as you when raising my arms.
I love the colour of this dress and the design is very interesting. The sleeves would be extremely frustrating and your changes to the front pockets makes a lot of sense. Fantastic last photo!
It's all about the final pose – without that, well, what can I say??!!!!
Your dress is fabulous, and you look lovely in it. Lots of detailed notes as well – thank-you!
Love the knock off pose- very funny! 😀
Your dress is wonderful; I just love the colour.
I love your dress. It suits you beautifully. I couldn't see any potential in the pattern as it was pictured by Vogue but your version has me convinced. Thank you for the great review too.
The architecture of this is fascinating! I love the color, nice and soft blue.
Love this dress!
The last picture is great! The dress looks nice on you, it is very flattering.
Love the dress… and your simple elegant post in the final picture cracked me up!
😀
I love reading about the changes you made to the patterns because it reminds me that it's okay to tinker with the paper pattern! That it's better to come up with something one would like to actually wear than to make something by the book that is unwearable.
The modified dress looks absolutely super, as does the modified shoeless pose 🙂
Love that colour, love the dress, but the pose is best of all! What a hoot.
the colour of the dress is amazing, it's a shame we can't touch it, because linen and silk sounds like a wonderful combination! I don't know that I would ever sew this pattern, but thanks for sharing the alterations you made or plan to make if you sew it again! oh and well done for the silly pose: I wonder what they were thinking 🙂
Oh I love love love this. The design lines and your fabric colour choice is magic. It's simple, austere and classic all at the same time. Beautiful.
The 'advanced' tag on the pattern has me scared.
bwahahaha i love your pose!! but i really love your version of this dress, just beautiful!
stunning dress. I would definitely go and buy more of that fabric – it looks divine. Your parents have excellent taste .
Fantastic! I have had this pattern sitting in my stash for MONTHS, with a view to making it up in this: http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric/793735
But I've been a bit uncertain of how well the pattern would match up, and a LOT short on space to complete the project. That wee tip about the depth of the neckline is very valuable.
Gorgeous! I love everything about this dress – and it looks fantastic on you! I am definitely adding that pattern to my list!
it looks great on you! I love the design! You're great at posing…better than the original I would say.
Love the pose – the dress is lovely, so elegant.
A wonderful dress to add to your wardrobe! I love the color and texture in the fabric and agree with your change to add the bow to the back.
great picture !! A very nice dress.
oh my gosh your pose imitation is so good! how fun.
Totally stunning dress. I am more than a little in love with the fabric – is it still available?
Gail, I popped in today, and yes it is; it's a silk/linen blend, and comes in about five colours. My colour here is "monument", and there is also ivory, pumpkin, tan, grey… these are the colours I remember and not the descriptions on the tag.
It's beautiful! Love what you did to line the skirt, I am going to copy you when I make this again.
It's simply beautiful! The fabric is amazing, the sheen and color both.
Do you think you'd have to make the adjustments with a different fabric? the Vogue website says the suggested fabrics are synthetic suede and lightweight double knit. your dress turned out gorgeous!