… the lion., and the latest in my horoscope series.
I am wearing my new Alexander McQueen designed jacket. And did you know that Alexander McQueen’s first name was actually… oh ok then, his name was Lee not Leo. But… pretty close. And this jacket has been taking up the, um, lion’s share of my time lately… ?!
above; Alexander McQueen brocade kimono jacket, 2003
The pattern is a free download from showStudio and when I saw Catherine’s fantastic version of this edgy design I just had to give it another go. Confession, this is my second time making this up; my first attempt back in 2010 was pretty disastrous and I gave up halfway through.
Attempt number two… and at least I finished it this time! Thank you
Catherine for sending me the instructions 🙂
This is a very difficult make but I’m fairly happy with the end result and there was not as much angst involved as in my maiden voyage. Though once again there were times I wondered whether the late Mr McQueen had been having a bit of a lend of us…. ! but it does actually make sense and comes together successfully in the end.
The fabric I used for this new version is a very soft cotton denim in a shade of dusky apricot, and was part of my precious Japanese-bought stash,
posted here. I just barely got the pattern pieces cut out of my 2.5m…
barely! so I recommend that if you decide to make this yourself get at least 3m unless you really fancy an extra little challenge to go with this already challenging design.
I added discreet and fairly useless little pockets, just because why not. There is no pocket pattern piece and none are mentioned in the rather sparse reader-contributed instructions, however there are markings on the pattern not relating to anything else but that appear to indicate where a pocket could go (dot B) I wanted for my pockets to be as invisible as possible, so the sides disappear into the side seams and underneath the front flaps, and the lower edge is sewn flush against the lower edge of the jacket. Meaning the only visible edge is the top edge.
Actually there is no visible stitching on the outside of my jacket at all. I really like the apparent minimalism of the finishes, a contrast to, and a showcase for the complexity of those pleats and darts at the back.
The instructions did help but they are not fabulous. I transferred all markings onto the wrong side of my fabric with red pen which washes out with the first wash, and this helped enormously. As well as dot B, dots X and L are also not mentioned anywhere in the instructions and dot L is all by its lonesome with no other dot L
anywhere. I joined up points X a little way along their joining lines, and freehanded the last pleats to guarantee symmetry.
(Later edit: in a lightbulb moment I’ve suddenly realised you are supposed to join dot L from one back to dot L on the other back! Doing this would “look” about the same as what I did so I might leave mine the way it is!)
Visible hidden inside edges I finished with HongKong seaming which was then invisibly slip-stitched down to the garment. A few invisible inside edges were finished on the overlocker. The centre back piece was cut on the side edge and I left those raw selvedges unfinished on the inside too. I interfaced the lower facing then later decided this made the lower edge far too stiff for my taste, so ripped it off. There is no interfacing in the jacket now, and I like this softness.
Closure is by a single button and a loop covered with tightly spaced blanket stitching, made from embroidery thread, plus three small brass press-studs.
Details:
Jacket; Alexander McQueen via showStudio, lightweight apricot cotton denim
Tshirt (not seen); self-drafted, white cotton, details here
Skirt; Vogue 1247, purple denim dyed brown, details and my review of this pattern here, and see this skirt styled in 6 different ways here
Tights; self-drafted, wool merino, details here
Boots; Andrea and Joen, from the now re-branded Uggies in Dunsborough
Details:
This is an amazing jacket. In the original piece by Alexander McQueen you can't really appreciate the intricacy of all the pleats and darts but your version showcases them exceptionally well. It's also a great color, very toned down but still cheerful. Congratulations!
thank you Wendy 🙂
This is so beautiful, I ADORE kimono style jackets so my heart skipped a little beat when I saw yours 🙂 I can't even start to imagine the amount of work you had to put into this project to get such a great garment but it was definitely worth it!
Wow, your jacket is fantastic! The style and color suits you so well, and how cool to have finished something so elaborate. Bravo! I've been admiring this design for a long time but am still not sure I'm ready to try it.
It's beautiful. Thanks so much for your detailed photos of the finished piece. I've been tempted by this pattern before, and if I ever get the courage to try it, your photos will be a great help. Congrats on a complicated project completed so well!
that is very cool, the back darts and shaping are gorgeous.
This is an interesting jacket. I like it in the lighter colour as it seems to show the pleats to advantage.
That is superlative!!
man! I've attempted that pattern once and it was a total failure. yours came out fabulous!
wow impressive work of art.
Beautiful jacket. I love the subtle colour. You really did the design justice 🙂
I'm SOOOOO jealous! This has been on my fantasy hit list since Pattern Vault posted it this year. It's divine. DIVINE. Oh, to wear some McQueen you made yourself…. I love the casual fabric with the elegant design. Expect to pass on your hard won wisdom when I get around to making my own….
Amazing! As always, your skill has me in awe.
Leo is a great jacket. It's must be great to wear too. The colour is really flattering and I bet the fabric is soft too. Nice work on adding the pockets.
It is certainly an unique jacket. I love all the details.
Fantastic! Very unique design and you did an amazing job with all the finishing touches. I like the fabric you chose more than the original brocade! What an amazing jacket, I'm blown away!
This is beautiful. I've seen this jacket made up a few times and am always amazed – yours is no exception!
I'm completely in love ! I want the same, it's amazing ! ( je craque complètement ! Je veux le même, c'est merveilleux !)
Like that. Have ya done Virgo yet, my birthday month lol
coming up next month 🙂
What a great jacket. I love the lines on it. Great job.
So very cool. I love your jacket. I downloaded the pattern, but I'm not sure I'm ready to attempt it.
Wow, amazing jacket and I really like the softer lines,
It is a very lovely jacket – a wonderful showcase for your Tokyo fabric – and I love the pockets. Thanks for the detailed review.
Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous! Note to self: do not try this at home!!
Wow that looks fabulous!!.looking very intricate:)
Absolutely amazing. Such amazing jackets need just the right person to carry them off, and you certainly look fantastic in this jacket. The added pocket is brilliant.
That is one spectacular jacket. I absolutely adore how the back pleats sit and look – definitely worth all the effort!
I can't tell you how long I've waited to make up this pattern. I love every version I see. Beautifully made as ever.
What a great idea to add the pockets! It has come out really well, and the colour's wonderful. Definitely a worthy use of the fabric.
I said I'd never make this again, but now I'm thinking mine could do with pockets…
I just made a tunic and when I put it on I slid my hands down the side to put my hands in the pockets and thought BUM I wish I had put pockets in this! It is a beautiful jacket but if I wore it, little people would make the sleeves filthy with yoghurt and felt tip pens but you look pretty sophisticated. Jo x
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I wish I could make or own this jacket! Lovely work.
It´s an amazing pattern! The shapes are awesome, soooo sophisticated! Alexander McQueen brocade kimono jacket is beautiful, but I think that with brocade it would be less wearable.
Great!
I've had that pattern on my computer for years, but I haven't tried it yet.
I love your edgy-yet-soft version.
Very cool! I really like seeing it in the brocade and in a less formal fabric. It's quite spectacular both ways!
Beautiful! I don't think I would have envisioned it in the color you chose, but it's perfect and accentuates the details better than a darker color would.
This is just stunning and it it is so interesting in the apricot denim. I'd never seen that site before – could be a few hours of investigating.
Simply wow! I love the architectural lines of this and the colour is epic. So rad!