Issey Miyake tucked dress

I’ve made a new dress.  Part of that swap-eroonie…. which does seem like a vague dream from the distant past now; but actually upon which progress has happily been made.    *gasp*  *self back-pat*.
My new dress is from an old Vogue Issey Miyake pattern, Vogue 2438, hailing from maybe the late 90’s? I think? I don’t know for sure.  If someone does then please feel free to enlighten me!  (Later edit; 2001)  I bought it through ebay.  The dress is basically a giant, almost shapeless sack of a dress that achieves shaping with a few darts and two big strategically placed folds held in place with snap tape.  You are supposed to arrange the snaps to make the folds more or less pronounced, as desired.  Pretty cool concept, huh?   This is in the same vein to another Issey Miyake dress I have, of black jersey, and is perfectly representational of my desire to make things that look kinda ordinary on first sight but on closer inspection turn out to be just a touch weird and slightly “off”.  Those of us into clothes often see the link between our fashion choices to our personalities; and I think that description pretty much sums up me in a nutshell too  😉

 it’s asymmetrical so the side views are a bit different
there are also darts down each side from the underarm to the hip

This dress is supposed to be made in stretchy fabric too, but scandalously, it is not.  It is a thickish woven cotton, deep chocolate brown with a cream pin-stripe, bought from the Fabric Store in Melbourne about three years ago.  I was so in love with my vision of this particular dress, in this particular fabric that I was just like; oh, recommended fabrics, pfft.   I know I know, such a rebel, tut tut.  The recommended fabric is generally like a primary tenet of dress-making; that thou shalt ignore at thy peril and risk of permanent exclusion from the hallowed halls of sewing Utopia.
O woopsie.  *blush*
Well ok, I didn’t just gratuitously leap in and go for it helter skelter; I did measure to check feasibility.  I sized up, and also altered the snap tape placement to accommodate my shape; in a little bit in at the waist and out a little bit at the hips.  And it all worked out.  In fact it is pretty much exackertackerly just how I wanted it to be, so I’m happy!
the back tuck is on quite a slanted curve

Details:
Dress; Vogue 2438, chocolate/cream stripe cotton
Shoes; Perrini, had for so long I’ve forgotten where I bought them now.

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48 Thoughts on “Issey Miyake tucked dress

  1. A beautiful dress! I admire how you choose patterns and fabrics that are so timeless:)

  2. Hello! I have been reading your blog for a quite a while, but never commented. I love everything you make but got excited when I saw this dress. I made it in red in 2002. I was 17 and wore on a valentines day date with my first serious boyfriend. I remember I had been eyeing the pattern for a little while so it probably came out around 2000. I still have mine hanging in the wardrobe. Your version is lovely.

    • hello Frankie, and thank you for that gorgeous story. I love that you still have the dress hanging in the wardrobe! have you worn it again? It is always delightful and wonderful when special clothes can capture and evoke our memories of the important moments in our lives, isn't it; I have a few pieces that are really special that I will keep forever and ever, too 🙂

  3. Cool dress.

    I share your love of the "things that look kinda ordinary on first sight but on closer inspection turn out to be just a touch weird and slightly "off". aesthetic.

  4. I'm not completely captured by this model. Although the choice of fabrics is superb. BIZ

  5. I really like your description of this dress! I too am drawn to the unusual details though sometimes lack the courage to see them through to reality. I have recently seen a similar shaped Burda dress that has captured my imagination. Great dress, it really suits you.

  6. I love this dress! and to me your choice of fabric is very clever; I do think that the 'stiffness' of the heavy cotton brings the interesting fold 'play' of this dress – much more interesting than if it was done in a stretchy fluid fabric.
    really nice!

  7. That dress will never look dated. Good job! I like yours better than the ones on the pattern envelope!

  8. This dress shows that real quality design knows no age. I would have never thought this pattern was from the 90s. It looks great!

  9. Lovely. Just lovely.

  10. Fantastic piece! Just what I'd like to make. Right. This. Week.

  11. Fantastic piece! Just what I'd like to make. Right. This. Week.

  12. This looks perfectly you! I think it looks better in a woven than in a stretch, but that's me.. I always prefer woven. I really love you in this.

  13. How clever! It's lovely. Isn't it fab when something in your minds eye just works out so perfectly?

  14. Definitely your style of dress and it looks fantastic on you!

  15. Issey Miyake is definitely 'your' designer. Dress looks fabulous.

  16. I have this pattern – bought in late 90s – the date should be on the back in the fine print. It has a "sister" pattern that is a similar jacket and skirt. I've never made them, but your dress is super cool. Nice work.

    • thank you, Caroline! and for the tip too 🙂 … I checked the fine print on the envelope and it is copyrighted 2001; so mine could be a second edition of the pattern, maybe? 🙂

  17. I agree with Stephanie – this pattern may be from the late 90s, but you'd never know it. I think the woven fabric looks good too – oh, and you in it, of course!

  18. I would never dare to contradict the envelope directions..like EVER! I´m glad that you do though, and show us that the outcome of risking a little can be very satisfactory and so pretty!

  19. gorgeous! i love all the small details that make this so special. nice job on converting it to a woven, usually i'm inclined to change my woven patterns to knits!

  20. I think it's safe to say that by the time one has achieved as much sewing experience as you have, you can use whatever the heck fabric you want to. Besides, it works perfectly!

  21. This is a very interesting design. I love the way the tucks go at random angles. I think your choice of fabric suits the dress so well, I agree about using non-recommended fabrics – why should we be dictated to!

  22. I love the rebellion of not using the recommended fabric. I've often not made something that I've wanted to because my fabric of choice wasn't what was recommended. No more! You've inspired me to break that particular rule…

  23. I love the fabric you chose! Even if it wasn't the recommended fabric – it's just that – a recommendation, right? Heheh. 😀

  24. So chic Carolyn! As always you executed this dress perfectly!

  25. Absolutely lovely!

  26. Wowwww! I love everything about this dress. I have several Issey Miyake patterns, but not this one, wish I did. I really like the styling of the Miyake patterns, they all have a very boxlike look, but by way of tying, wraping and draping, ta da!! A lovely, very japanese inspired looking outfit ensues. Yours is no exception. Love how you used woven instead of stretch knit. I'm surprised actually that it came out so beautifully!! I would have thought it would be very 'stiff' looking in a woven, since it called for knit, but whaddoIknow? 🙂 (ps, if you get a chance, pop over to my blog and vote for my next pattern choice – it's for The Monthly Stitch's March sewing challenge. I have a poll up and there are 4 patterns to chose from. Can't wait to see which one wins!!!)

  27. Lovely dress!!! If you look at the back of the pattern envelope, in the micro print on the side that says Vogue Pattern Service, it should have a copyright date. That will tell you what year the pattern was released.

  28. What a great shape and looks Fab on you. Jo x

  29. This is gorgeous! I love the shape & issey miyake designs are always so clever!

  30. Your new dress is 'you' to perfection – both colour and design I think. One of the things I have discovered since getting more interested in sewing is how much choice sewers have to dress any way they want, as there is such a massive back catalogue of deigns to choose from. I love the fact you can pick a truly timeless, individual look!

  31. Love it! I think that this style suits you very well 🙂

  32. Me encanta tu Issey Miyake tucked dress, Carolyn, es precioso

  33. Oh how I've missed reading your blog! (my fault entirely). Love your pattern interpretations as always 🙂

  34. Lovely dress.

  35. Love this! You are the master of architectural, sculptural shapes!

  36. I remember when that pattern was new, but not a clue when that was. Very cool interpretation of it. Used to be a blog with the complete list of the Vogue Issey's from the very first – http://groehm.tripod.com/miyake/.

    • Beryl; yes, I've drooled over the pictures on that blog more than once or twice 😉 How I wish the Issey Miyake's could all just be re-issued (sigh)

  37. I like Issey Miyake patterns, but I haven't seen this one.. Very interesting pattern, and I like your interpretation!

  38. Oooh I love that pattern – nice score!! I love "deceptively simple" silhouettes too; those which, upon closer inspection, reveal mysterious secrets 🙂 Yes, totally get the idea of style mimicking personality!! 🙂

  39. Your dress is beautifully classic with a twist. It looks marvellous on you. How clever of you to make a woven version.

  40. Issey Miyake is a genius, but it takes a little genius to optimise his design potential. Lovely dress and your fabric choice is inspired.

  41. What a beautiful dress, Carolyn! Very you, with those little idiosyncratic details. 🙂 And the colour is lovely on you.

  42. Pingback: #hoodie | Handmade by Carolyn

  43. Pingback: Nettie; by seven | Handmade by Carolyn

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