Hello! I’ve made some new jeans 🙂
These are the Ginger jeans designed by Heather of Closet Case Patterns, and named after Sonya of Ginger makes, and I was so happy that Heather asked me to test the pattern. Thanks so much for asking me, Heather! I LOVE trying out new patterns!
The pattern has two views, I have made view A, a mid-rise bootleg design. View B is a high-rise skinny leg.
I used a stretchy cotton denim from KnitWit in a very deep blue-black wash, and the topstitching is in ivory/cream-coloured Gutermann’s upholstery thread. The jeans zip, the copper coloured snaps for closure, and the copper coloured rivets are all from KnitWit too.
The pattern is a classic five pocket jeans pattern; and I know Heather has worked very hard to perfect a really good starting-point fit. Although obviously; everyone, everywhere has completely different bodies, meaning fit is a very personal and individual thing that cannot be easily standardised; so it’s terrific that Heather has included in the pattern instructions some very helpful suggestions for trouble-shooting the fitting process. I learnt several new things! I did make some adjustments to custom-fit mine to myself, taking in the crotch, the side seams at the waist, a pinch-in adjustment of the CB seam for a slight swayback.
Just as a comparison, these are pretty much the same adjustments that I generally make for my old tried-and-true jeans pattern, Burda 7863.
Also, at the cutting out stage I added 7.5cm (3″) to the leg length, just in case. Lengthening the legs is another always adjustment for me; partly a shrinkage insurance policy, and partly in case I fancy wearing a high heel with my jeans and partly because when I’m crouching down or sitting with my knees crossed I prefer for my ankles to stay covered and warm and out of the wind. I’m of the school of thought that you can always cut off but you can not add on afterwards! And I was glad I did add that little bit of length since I think the legs would have been just a smudge short otherwise.
During my early fitting trials I realised the rise of view A is quite low, so I decided to sew the upper and lower seams of the waistband with skinny 2/8″ seam allowance, instead of the standard 5/8″. Meaning my waistband ended up 6/8″ or 2cm wider and thus my jeans have a that-much higher rise than intended. This higher rise feels a tonne more comfortable for me.
I also like my waistbands to be firm and stable and secure, holding everything in ie. not stretchy! so instead of on grain I cut the waistband on the cross, where the fabric had zero stretch. My waistband is interfaced, and the waistband lining and pocket bags are cut from a charcoal/white pinstriped fine-grade linen, the leftovers from Tim’s business shirt that I made for him last year
Speaking of learning things… I’ve put in loads of fly fronts in my time, so sometimes I’m tempted to ignore pattern instructions and just potter along blithely in my own merry way. But when I’m testing a pattern I follow the instructions given. Because you’re testing and later reviewing the pattern and its instructions, duh. And hey, you might learn new stuff. I sure did… the Ginger jeans fly front method is, dare I say it? …foolproof. Detailed to a fault, meticulously outlined, and it works like an absolute charm!! I think my new jeans have the best damn fly front I’ve ever done, ever. And it went together so easily.
I’m so impressed with those fly front instructions I’ve printed that bit out and stuck them to the wall behind my sewing machine. Have I ever done that with a technique before…? Precisely never.
These instructions are that good.
Thank you so much for another excellent pattern, Heather!
Details:
Jeans; Ginger jeans by Closet Case patterns, navy/black stretch cotton denim
Top; Burda magazine 04/2014, 111, creamy bobbly stretch stuff, details here
Sandals; c/o Misano
Caroline, these are wonderful – I'm looking for a skinny leg high rise ( I need high rise) jean, and I think you have found it for me. Thank you :).
On a less selfish note, these jeans look fantastic – as usual, nicely finished inside, with that lovely bespoke touch of contrast fabric in the waistband. As that is not stretch, that must help with waistband stability as well.
That zip does look pretty darn immaculate!
Love your fabric choice aswell!
http://www.knitwits-owls.blogspot.co.uk/?m=1
Frankie
X
These are pretty awesome looking jeans. You have achieved the perfect fit with your minor alterations. Your sewing always amazes me.
I have been waiting for this post after seeing a sneak peak of new jeans a couple of weeks ago in an outfit post! I do like the look of this pattern and your version. I might have to invest in this!
thanks Andrea! I won't sure anyone was even looking at those outfit posts!
OMG I hope the fly front is really as easy as you say it is! I can never figure that sucker out!
Wonderful jeans and perfect fit! And I agree about that fly front instructions, it is the best instructions that I've encountered so far. I feel like I finally get how it works!
They look great and wow, that is a big call from you re the front fly instructions! Must get this pattern.
The jeans are absolutely wonderful!
Super swish! Praise indeed coming from you re the fly instructions – thanks for sharing!
Carolyn, that fly front is BOSS! These are crazy rad!
Beautiful jeans and a truly impressive fly front!
That is an amazing fly front! Impeccable results – thanks for the pattern review! Although I don't think I'll be trying to sew jeans any time soon, it's always good to have an idea for the future. 😉
Your fly front is perfect! It is so satisfying when that happens. I LOVE these jeans. Another one to add to my jean journey list!
I already wanted this pattern and now after you praising a fly installation so much I'm very intrigued. The jeans look great on you!
These look SO good! No alterations? I like the look of that wider waistband too!
These are just lovely!! Great job! I tested the pattern too, and those fly instructions ARE pretty awesome!
I didn't test, but did just buy the pattern yesterday as soon as it was announced. Now that I've read your review, I'm looking to trying it out even more. THANK YOU so much for the details of you how you tweaked, etc. You and i have much the same body, so your thoughts are doubly welcome in that area.
i've been itching to make more jeans, since the one pair i made is in near constant rotation… i'm hesitant to try a new pattern instead of tweaking what i've got, but i must admit that i'm tempted to try these!
Okay, I wasn't going to buy this pattern, but it sounds worth it for the fly instructions alone! If you learned something I'm bound to!
They look great!
I am nearly ready to make my own jeans. I have made a prototype so I am waiting for a day to cut out without children interrupting me! They are a nice style. I like a firm waistband too so I will remember to cut the grain. x
These jeans fit you beautifully – great job!
You know, I was going to pass on this pattern for now (I have 2 other jeans patterns I need to try already, plus a few pants patterns!) but your comments and results have changed my mind. Your jeans look fantastic!!
Lovely. Your jeans look very crisp and professional.
It's seams like a industrial one ! So nice ! KISS
Very neatly made. I picked up on the use of upholstery thread for topstitching. Is it slightly thinner than topstitching thread, as my machine hates that stuff (especially on layers of denim)? If yes, I must try to source some (I didn't actually know upholstery thread existed). It may solve a problem for me!
Thanks Philippa!, and yes, I had the upholstery thread already and decided to use it instead of buying new topstitching thread. And I would definitely choose it again, it is stronger than topstitching thread, and sleeker and stiffer, not as prone to unravelling. The only negative is a much small range of colours.
Whoa these are perfection! Such a great fit. Must give these a try!
Great jeans! I'm also of the school of thought of adding length even if I don't seem to need it on measuring the pattern. I've never regretted adding length! And hey, I notice your counter is just short of 2,000,000 – planning any celebrations:)
We can buy denim and rivets etc from Knitwit? You mean the shop in Nedlands? I was looking at Ginger yesterday and debating where I could buy the fabric here – thank you!
Your jeans are lovely, they look great and very comfortable. Well done!
Melinda, yes!! KnitWit on Stirling Hwy has stretch denim! a small selection but nice quality, and I found the rivets in a small basket of things going for half price on the counter.
The jeans are fantastic. Love the skinny leg, but not so skinny like leggings. Also, I am really in love with that bobbly top. I need some fabric like that!
They look perfect. Great job as usual.
Those look great, Carolyn! I'm sorely tempted trying the Ginger pattern, even though I hardly ever wear jeans. Maybe I would, if they were well fitting and comfortable…?
Those are the perfect jeans. Great job.
Very nice! I also love your top, which I'm sure you've also made. 🙂
thank you shams, and yes I did! It is Burda 04/2014-111
that is great, I love Heather patterns and I so trust your thoughts on things!
Thanks for the review!
looks great 🙂
Making jeans is some way ahead for me. These look good. I like a high rise, but also prefer bootleg to skinny due to my shape. No doubt I could combine those variations?
Wow Carolyn. These are great! I'm inspired!!
Terrific trousers! The fit is wonderful, but I am not surprised at that. You have loads of experience in pants fitting and it shows. I made a mental note about the upholstery thread and will try that soon. Now, my biggest takeaway from this post?…the fly instructions. I need this pattern 🙂 just for those.
Great jeans. I think the use of upholstery thread has brought your jeans up to/beyond? industry standards.
Amazing jeans and you have me intrigued about the fly front!
Your jeans looks fab! I actually love the lining you've used inside the waistband, instead of using another layer of denim. These jeans are now on my list now – I'm procrastinating about jeans and pants in general because I haven't got my head around fixing fit, so for these instructions to include tips on achieving fit – how fantastic!
Gorgeous jeans, and beautifully stitched!
Really beautiful job on these – the fit is spot on and the construction is PERFECT! I love the bit of menswear shirting on the inside too!! 🙂
Beautiful jeans and the fit is perfect!!
These are beautifully done! I would have to agree that the slightly higher rise is a bit more appealing. My favorite bits are the double snap closure and the shirting lining on the waistband. Very cool! Thanks for sharing.
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