I’ve made a new skirt; a high-waisted, knee-length straight skirt, with a self-belt, long double belt loops and in-seam arrow welt pockets. This is skirt 114 from the Solo in White collection from Burda style magazine 04/2014. I’ve waxed lyrical about this collection previously just because of the dreamy colour palette, but a closer perusal of the design lines had me lost in admiration anew for the designs themselves. This is now the third piece I’ve made from the collection; others here and here. May not be the last either, because all pieces are quite lovely; classical but still with their own interesting little twist. Honestly, it has to be said; Burda magazines are simply the hands down best value for money around.
The fabric is from the Fabric Store in Melbourne, bought during my last trip there with Mum and Cassie. I think it’s a linen/something mix, woven of various thickness fibres, stiff-ish and almost like thin upholstery fabric. I didn’t think it too thick for the slightly more complex sewing required of those arrow welt pockets, and think they turned out ok. I got the skirt pieces cut out of my piece with the barest of scraps to spare. Honestly, my wastage was less than a scrunched handful of fabric. Win!!! After cutting the pieces I overlocked all edges before doing a single other thing, because it frays like a madman.
Changes: I cut a size 40 at the hips grading into a size 38 at the waist. In fitting to myself I ended up taking a little bit more off each edge at the waist.
I cut my pocket pieces to be substantially bigger than the pattern piece. My one gripe with Burda patterns is that the pocket pieces are nearly always laughably small. Or do I have giant flipper hands? Ummm, probably the latter!
Another small gripe I have with this style of skirt is that the in-seam pockets are frequently situated too close to the CF for my liking, and so when you’ve got your hands in your pockets you end up feeling like you’ve got your hands sitting coyly and weirdly right over your crotch. Hate that! So I cut my skirt pieces so the front piece was 4cm wider at the CF, and folded 2cm down the centre of each side front piece. This moved the seams 2cm further out to each side, which is just enough to make hands-in-pockets feel not so weird to me.
I fully lined the skirt with cream coloured polyacetate from Fabulous Fabrics, mostly because my fabric has some stiff and sharp fibres in it that I could imagine over time would become scratchy and super annoying against soft tummy skin. Lining pieces are not provided with the pattern, but it’s easy enough to make a lining; by splicing the front pieces together along the seam lines, cutting from the facing allowance down; and folding the width difference in along the top as a pleat. The back dart allowance can also be folded as a pleat in the lining.
I cut the facing and pocket pieces from pale yellow polycotton, and pieced the pocket with a strip of the self-fabric at the opening edge, so that is what shows if the insides are glimpsed during wear.
The instructions for the in-seam arrow welt pockets, contained in those for skirt 113, are quite difficult to follow; I was thinking vaguely of doing a little pictorial here to illustrate how they are done. Maybe.
Anyway, that’s it! It’s still too hot for this skirt yet, but I’m happy to tuck it away in the wardrobe, awaiting some lovely cool weather. I bought some perfectly matching fabric to make a top to go with it too, so should get on to that thing next. Ever onwards!
Details:
Skirt; Burda style 04/2014-114, apricot/cream linen/cotton woven
Top; adapted from the loose drape top from drape drape, by Hisako Sato, cream jersey knit, details here
Sandals; Zomp, from Zomp boutique
Wow, this is a lovely skirt! The fit looks to perfection.
Gorgeous skirt! That fabric is to die for.
thank you so much Siobhan! Yes, the fabric is very lovely ๐
This looks so elegant Carolyn, and it goes beautifully with that top.
thanks Andrea F ๐
I think this is my favorite of all the things I've seen you make! Lovely lovely lovely!
aw, thank you so much helenko! ๐
I love that fabric, it's so lovely. The skirt looks beautiful and you have done such a good job with the fit ๐
Absolutely stunning!!
thanks so much Rianna! ๐
It's really gorgeous, love the pocket detailing. Quite similar in style to the Colette beignet but a little straighter. The high waist is so stylish. Love.
Moving the front seams out has made this skirt perfect. The arrow welt pockets are lovely, and the whole skirt is totally elegant and chic.
This is a gorgeous skirt. I love the shape, the fit, the high waist and the pockets. I'm seriously envious of your tiny waist. Very flattering shape on your figure and the sewing is perfect.
What a lovely skirt! You seem to find all of the best Burda patterns. I have so many Burda books but don't make many things from them. I really must remedy that!
Thats a lovely skirt and a great outfit, like peaches and cream. Can't wear high waisted myself but would love to adapt a pattern and use that topstitching detail on the pockets, thanks.
Very elegant and beautifully finished. I'd love to know how to do those arrow welt pockets, they look so chic but I wouldn't know where to start…
thank you very much, Samantha ๐
so beautifully made, and suits you to a tee.
Lovely! Gorgeous combination of fabric and pattern.
Lovely! Gorgeous combination of fabric and pattern.
beautiful skirt! those pockets look gorgeous! also, that's my favorite burda issue of the last year too! made few things from it so far, and think i might make that jumpsuit next ๐ would be great for spring
Beautiful fabric plus your sewing is impeccable. Love those pocket welts!!!
Lovely design and execution! I would love to see a tutorial for those welt pockets- I am sure I won't be able to decipher Burda instructions without help!
Beautiful skirt! And I agree with you about the new placement of the pockets. Nothing worse than looking like you're scratching your crotch!
This is beautiful – so elegant! I've been looking for a good pencil skirt pattern with pockets. I love this look, but I can't do the high-waisted silhouette very often; I'm not a tucker-inner! ๐
This skirt looks lovely on you! Such a flattering shape! And those welt pockets? Wow!
*swoon*
That is STUNNING!
Love the pockets. You did a stellar job on them. And you're not alone in flipper hands territory (although I've only met three men with bigger hands than mine, and maybe a dozen as large). Most women's clothing (fully constructed or patterned) have pitifully small pockets, if any at all, so I keep a traced, slightly deepened pocket for inseam goodies, and just make the rest all a bit bigger.
aww thanks so much Liz! ๐
What beautiful work! This high-waisted silhouette looks fantastic on you.
That is one classy skirt. I am so short waisted that the waistband would be touching my nipples if I wore it!!! but on you it looks ubber chic. I will stick with my crochet skirt which I finished this week. Jo x
http://joeveryday19.blogspot.co.uk
This is absolutely beautiful! the extra care taken sewing those pockets really shows, its a stunning garment
wow!! I sewed this skirt, but I didn't make pockets, you can see it on my blog. I like very much this skirt ๐
Yup, this is the skirt. colours, cut, pockets—i would love to wake up and find this in my wardrobe.
I am so in love with those arrow welt pockets! Great skirt, looks lovely on you.
I love this skirt and those pockets….. amazing.
Beautiful Carolyn! I would live it if you would do a tutorial on these gorgeous pockets. Your skills are superb!
So cute, it looks lovely!
Nice! Those pockets are amazing.
What a georgeous skirt! I didn't even notice this pattern in Burda style magazine, but your version is really highlighting the interesting details and I especially love the fabric you chose.
Wow, you've got a beautiful skirt! (www.terzibegum.blogspot.com)
What an absolute stunner!
Loving this skirt, great colour and moving the pockets was a very good idea. Made me laugh! On the topic of pockets, I would LOVE a tut on welt pockets. Desperate for tips on oerfecting this.
You have a fabulous job, everything looks perfect. Do you subscribe to Burda, cause I have trouble getting a copy from the news agent and they won't hold for me as they're only allowed 2?
thank you! no, I do not subscribe, just buy it at the newsagents. I will buy maybe one issue per year
I love the designs lines of this! And good move on pocket moving and resizing. I think the Burda peeps have tiny doll hands!!
Gorgeous skirt, I need to dig my copy out and have another look at the design lines. I also agree that Burda have ridiculously small pocket bags and thank you for the tip about moving those seams.
Wow! this is one of the best constructed skirts I've seen!
What a gorgeous skirt; beautiful work.
What a pretty skirt.
That is beautiful!!
The high waist silhouette suits you perfectly, and the crisp tailoring keeps this design from getting too saccharine sweet. A complete success from concept to fabric to fit to execution.
One question: Most high waisted skirts seem to call for boning these days. Carolyn, may I ask if you treated the skirt facing in a special way to avoid the need for boning?
thank you A! and I have to admit I've never seen a skirt pattern calling for boning! Corsetry, yes; and some types of bra, and I've used it for strapless dresses, just never for a skirt.
I applied iron-on interfacing to the skirt facing for stability as per the pattern instructions and I think it'll be fine just with that ๐
That's very helpful to me, as I'm about to start a high waisted skirt and everything I see on advice boards seems to show boning on the facing. Thank you. I'll go with interfacing too. And congratulations on a really wonderful garment.
Gorgeous skirt. Lovely details and beautifully sewn.
thank you very much susanm ๐
I can't begin to tell you how much I love this skirt! I love the apricot with your hair, I love the high waist that so elegant, I love the vertical lines, so flattering, I love that you moved the pockets so they weren't weird. I love that you've recommended Burda, because I'm burnt out with Threads and have been wondering what to do instead.
Very very pretty on you! This skirt suits you like a dream. You have a tiny waist to show off, and you look so elegant in this outfit.
What a lovely pattern. Very smart with fabulous detailing. Those pockets are divine! Burda patterns are just fantastic aren't they?
What a lovely and very accomplished skirt. It looks lovely on you and is beautifully made.
beautiful
I didn't take much notice of this pattern when I bought the magazine. Your version is really interesting.
Your comment about the pocket positioning made me laugh. I am another Burda fan and that's a great solution.