This method gives what could best be described as an inset strip. It can be used to “frame” individual pieces and will highlight the piecing in a design as an interesting feature.
It is a flat strip set alongside a seam so it looks superficially similar to piping, and has the advantage of being flat, not 3D, as well as being a bit easier to sew than piping imo š
These measurements will give a narrow 1/8″ inset strip alongside a seam, however the measurements can be easily adjusted accordingly to make a narrow or wider inset as desired. If desired, you can even make the strips slightly different widths within the one garment to emphasise some seams over others or to give a better balance visually.
Select the side of the seam you wish for the inset strip to sit. For example, in this bodice I elected for the inset strip to be on the back side of the back/front side seam. This will be the piece the bias-cut strip will be pinned and stitched to first.
Note: IF you are sewing strips into multiple seams on the garment as I did for my dress in this example, then it is very important to be rigidly consistent throughout here. Because the inset strip is encroaching on the garment a little bit on one side of the seam the garment will look a little “off” if some strips are sewn to the front and some to the back. Pick a side and stick to it.
Cut the bias strips to be 1″ width.
Pin the bias cut strips with the raw edge 4/8″ away from the raw edge of the fabric.
Stitch 6/8″ away from the raw edge. Note: to make a wider inset strip, pin the strip and sew this seam further away from the raw edge.
Press the wide edge of the strip over the stitching, towards the raw edge of the fabric.
Stitch the pattern pieces together, right sides together, in a regular 5/8″ seam allowance. The seam stitching is indicated in this picture, the stitching to the immediate right of that is the previous stitching to secure the bias-cut strip.
Open the pattern pieces out and press the seam allowance away from the inset strip side.
Voila!
Thanks for the great tutorial. I looks much easier then piping. I'm going to have try the inset strip soon.
Yes, great tutorial! I've seen this on RTW before and I like how it isn't as bulky as piping. Now I need to try it.
Thank you Carolyn, those instructions are crystal clear! I appreciate the time it took for you to take the pictures, and put this post together. I'm looking forward to trying this technique soon, but I foresee a few practice strips to make sure I can get everything consistently even. š
One question – at the end you say to press the seam allowance away from the inset strip side. Do you ever go back and use the serger along that entire seam allowance to get rid of some of the extra fabric? Or does doing that increase bulk because of the added threads from serging it OR do you need that seam allowance there to keep the seam balanced?
Oh, and yes, I think it looks easier than piping. Piping and I have not always got along well…. LOL!
Ok, at risk of being a comment hog – did you do anything special along the hem, or just a usual bias binding application? I say usual, but your usual looks quite lovely. On the dress referred to, the close ups of the areas at the top of the zipper and also the neckline "V" are precise and admirable. Thank you again for sharing with your readers.
Thank you so much for showing the interest Angela! I really appreciate it š
I overlocked all the raw edges of my pieces before anything else because it was a real "fray-er", but I didn't re-overlock any seams after stitching. I did trim some away of the black strips inside some of the more bulky joins, like where 3 or 4 pieces were coming together into a point on the bodice, and the side edges; and in some cases gently pounded some of the particularly bulky SA layers, underneath an old towel with a hammer, to flatten them.
And yes, the SA of the pocket edges, armhole edges and neckline were trimmed back to the stitching line and encased with the same black bias strips as a binding. I should have noted that in my initial post, thank you for reminding me to point that out š
What a great idea! This is a perfect alternative to piping in many projects. Thank you for the tutorial!
Great pictures. I'm dying to try it!
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing š
Thank you!!!
Thanks for sharing Carolyn as I had been mentally trying to figure out how you had done if. Amazing dress btw!
Thank you so much! I really, really wanted to ask you how you did this! It is so lovely. I have never seen this technique before and I am learning so much from you!
Thanks for posting the details. I'd not seen this technique before and I like the effect on your dress. Rather like modern stained glass.
Thank you for sharing, Carolyn. I am going to pin it and I'd love to try this tutorial one day š
A lovely detail and thank you for posting and another Pin for my techniques board. You need to do the same "seam selection" for a denim jacket to make sure your flat felled seams have a consistent look!
That's a great idea. Much easier than adding piping… I think my stitching wouldn't be accurate enough for piping but this I could so. Thanks.
I adore piping, but this looks so amazing, I want to try it instead.
What a terrific job, and beautiful dress! Utterly striking and clean patterned fabric.
(I am quite surprised I haven't heard of this technique before, so great in it's simplicity! Will definitely use)
– Also seeing Yoshimi's lovely bias cut, white denim dress; this pattern is clearly a must have, thank you both!
Detail reg. the visible white seam on top of the waist-band/-piece; Sure, no miss of yours, but probably necessary to strengthen this vertical seam, due to the weight of the skirt, right?
Thanks for the tutorial! I was wondering how you did that on the beautiful dress in your last post!
Great detail to add to a garment. Thanks for the tutorial!
Thank you so much for sharing this technique!
Thanks for the tutorial. It is very clear and helpful.
This is a fantastic technique and gives a beautiful finish. I'm mentally going through my patterns wondering where I can use it! Great tutorial.
Aaaaah thanks for this. I was just about ready to start sewing a pair of board shorts for my son. The fabric is multi-coloured and the style lines would have been lost, so I had already bought a length of silver piping to insert between all the seams. But I did have the thought of the hassle of sewing with piping. Your flat version is a brilliant idea.
The nice thing about this use of binding as decoration means that you can use on-the-grain strips for straight edges. Also, use a slightly wider binding, sew it into the seam and sew the pieces together wrong-sides together; trim the seam allowances, fold the binding over the raw edges of the seams and stitch it down — decoration and seam finish in one! (Although I would not attempt this on such a precisely puzzled garment as your beautiful Swedish dress, it is a good durable seam finish for simpler garments.)
Binding has so many great uses! I like the whole "framing" idea, this would be a really fun way to upgrade a classic silhouette dress and make it more interesting.
Pingback: Marimekko dress - Handmade by Carolyn
Found it! Thanks for the tutorial Carolyn. Now to put it into practice….{{{me clapping gleefully}}}
Iām confused from the start. Are you pinning the bias tape to right side or wrong side of the fabric?