Tag Archives: Burdastyle Magazine 05-2010-111

jingle bells

Yes, my new shirtdress literally does have bells on it.  The gold buttons are mini jingle bells, the type you put on cutesie wootsie Christmas decorations.  Whimsical and impractical although many of my sewing/knitting choices may be though, jingle-bells are just kinda… hmmm well the jury’s still out.  See, I just had my heart absolutely set on small rounded gold buttons and this was pretty much it.  I love the festivity of them and am clearly all set up to do Christmas Day with fabulous, jingly panache, but have fears that the relentlessly cheerful chirpy tingalingalinging will become a tad annoying in the interim, and not just to me but to the long-suffering souls who move in and about in my everyday orbit.  So I have not at this stage ruled out carefully injecting a blob of superglue into the opening of each jingle bell, to anchor the ringer thingie to the inside and restore peace and tranquility unto the world.
Glue is on standby and at the ready…

but pretty, non?

Fabric: a very fine coral floral silk georgette from Fabulous Fabric, the very last on the roll.  I bought it using a voucher given to me for my birthday by my dear friends; whom I’ve been meeting every week since our children were in the early school years…  They know my strange predilection for self-dressmaking so very well!  I also bought some ivory crepe; with which I made the slip to go under this dress, and which I also used for the button placket, the cuffs and the collar stand.  Jingle bells were also from Fabulous Fabrics.

I’m so relieved I had the foresight to make a separate slip to wear under this sheer dress, rather than an attached lining… why? because when I go to hang the clothes on the clothesline I’ve found this to happen…

Hmmm, see; the slip, being sleeveless, does not ride up when you lift your arms up over your head, of course.  Just yet another reason to keep a healthy collection of nice slips and petticoats handy in the lingerie drawer.  I have about four hardworking slips currently in rotation and just lately I’m seriously considering increasing the population, particularly since some of the oldies are getting… well, old.  Maybe even double that number wouldn’t be too many.  Slips, seems such a quaint and old-fashioned thing, yeah? the kind of ladylike frippery my grandmother loved and would buy for my birthdays etc and that seemed unnecessary and even rather fuddyduddy-ish to my much younger, more foolish self.  Now I am wearing them.  Am I getting old?  Hmmm, no need to answer that!

arms in regular position, all is well

Pattern: Burda 05/2010;111, a shirtdress pattern I’ve used twice before, a plaid shirtdress and a lace version; with sleeves adapted from another Burda pattern, 05-2010-101.  I’ve used this same sleeve pattern also twice before on different, other Burda patterns; my black Pirate shirt and my pale blue silk shirt.  This is that same sleeve but cut shorter and with a shorter cuff to compensate for being a shorter sleeve.
I chose to leave off the pockets, and the collar and just have the collar stand, I felt this lends a slightly more feminine look to a shirt, goes better with all that girly pink floral explosion that’s already going on in there.

Construction notes: I went with all French seams throughout of course, silk georgette kinda demands those sorts of standards! being sheer and all high quality and all.  Only the armscye seams I overlocked the raw edges to finish.  In a shirting cotton or linen I would flat fell the armscye seam like so, but silk georgette just does not lend itself to that level of tailoring.
Collar, button placket and cuff facing were hand fell-stitched to secure them; I wished for no top-stitching to sully that clean-finished, pristine crepe!  In my opinion, topstitching makes a shirt look a lot more casual and maybe a little masculine? whereas absence of top-stitching keeps a thing looking polished and, somehow feminine.  I know, that’s kinda irrational and I cannot logically explain why I have that masculine/feminine impressions of topstitching, but there it is.
The hem is hand-rolled and stitched, and I did the same technique as I did for my slip, with stay-stitching.  I hemmed this before I hemmed the matching slip, to get the right length for both, but it’s taken me this long to finish all the other little details and get out and take photographs of it.
And I also wanted to wait for its first outing to be a day on which I would be meeting all my friends to show it to them, and simultaneously an appropriately weather-ed day, nice enough to wear it! it’s taken a while for those two things to coincide.  Today was that day! hurrah!

Details:
Dress; Burda 05-2010-111, Burda 05-2010-101 sleeves, floral silk georgette with ivory crepe detailing, my original review of this pattern here
Slip (under); the Ruby slip, pattern by pattern scissors cloth, ivory crepe, details here

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Virgo

… the
sign of the maiden.

I have made a maidenly new dress  🙂
This delicate feathery ivory lace fabric was a very long term resident in my stash.  It’s a tricky customer; sooo cobwebby and so sparse that it has absolutely no structure or form whatsoever and it both stretches and collapses upon itself.  For years I’ve wondered what on earth I could do with it.  Finally I just decided a simple dress would do, and then tried to work out how its wayward flightiness could be tethered into some sort of “dress” arrangement.
Essentially it’s a shirt-dress.   The backbone of the dress is the collar, the shoulder and armscye seams, and the front button and arm bands: these are the only stable elements in the dress; and the lace fabric just hangs loosely from those structural components.  

The white lace is from Fabulous Fabrics years ago, and for the bands and collar I used a perfectly colour-matched
ivory swiss dotted cotton voile with sparsely scattered fluffy dots, bought at Potters Textiles
last year.  The buttons… ah, the
buttons!  They are lovely, antique
mother-of-pearl beauties that were given to me by ElleC… thank you so much
ElleC!  I used two of these buttons
previously in this blouse and now this new dress uses the remainder… and, yes! It
was really really hard to cut them
off their little card, but I decided that they are too lovely to sit in a
button tin forever and they deserve to be seen!  I think the marquise shape of the buttons is a purr-fect match for that same-shaped motif in the lace  🙂

I had
finagled the number of buttonholes to use every single last one of the buttons
so I was pretty darn devastated when the shank of one broke as I was stitching
it on… noooooo! And a snowflake’s chance in hell of ever finding another one!
So it was oh-so carefully super-glued together before stitching on, however I was still worried about it so
I’ve super-glued it and its
buttonhole together and to the dress. 
Now the left sleeve can never
be unbuttoned and I expect I will be obsessively checking to see that that
button is still in place forever and ever after.  (sigh)

 I stabilized the shoulder seams with a
strip of the same ivory cotton, and the armscyes and side seams are encased with Seams Great, a gift from velosewer;  thanks Maria!  the Seams Great is a sheer and flimsy creamy-coloured tape and is virtually invisible from the right side of the garment.  

inside view

I experimented with a few different finishes for the lower edge of
the dress and all my results were just too hideous for words so the lower
hem is simply cut straight and left unfinished.  This does leave quite a nice ethereal lightness and floatiness to the
lower hem, and fortunately the fabric will not fray.

The pattern is Burdastyle magazine 05/2010 dress 111, which I have used once before to make a completely different style of dress!  Technically, this new version of this pattern has a few slight variations: the front bands are
narrowed to a finished width of 2.5cm; which is visually more in keeping with
the delicacy of the lace fabric. the sleeves are shortened and I sewed a very
narrow band as a one piece sleeve-band placket, pictured below. 
The front bodice was rotated to eliminate the bust dart because the fabric is so delicate sewing darts would have been difficult and they would have looked weird too.  I cut the
sides to be a straight and wide A-line from underarm to the lower hem.

Details:
Dress;
Burdastyle magazine 05/2010, 111 modified, ivory lace and ivory cotton, my review of this pattern here
Petticoat;
Burda 8071, powder blue silk, details here
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Clad in plaid

I deemed today cool enough to wear one of ma newbies; a plaid shirtdress made using pattern no. 111 from Burdastyle magazine 05/2010.  Naturally with a one or two little adaptions…
The brushed cotton is stash fabric I’ve had for yonks, and have finally got around to using… actually initially intended for a shirt for one of the boys but I decided to be selfish and waylaid it for my own devious purposes instead, mwahaha.  The reason for my lack of motherly thoughtfulness; when I was out shopping the other week I tried on a delightful little plaid shirtdress in Country Road and fell in love with the style.  Had to have one.  Just had to.  So searched through my pattern collection until I found this suitable candidate and added to it some features that were absent from the pattern but are nice finishing touches for a classic shirtdress.  
My alterations to the pattern were namely, the addition of buttoned arrowhead tabs to the shoulders and also inside the sleeves so the sleeves can be rolled up and buttoned to elbow length (probably the way I will wear it most of the time!), the addition of inseam side pockets (well, really, why are these not in the pattern anyway, hmmm? tut tut, just no excuse, imo), and hemming the lower edge in a nice classic shirt curve.  Plus, instead of the straight up and down side seams of the original, mine is shaped slightly to give it some vague hint of a waist.  
Also I left off the belt carriers, which in the magazine photograph (below right) show the belt to be at a supremely unflattering spot just above the hips, and just underneath the tummy.  Err, no…  And incidentally this is right where one would want one’s pockets to go anyway.  If I am going to wear a belt with this dress, it will be up around the waist where it should be.  I love Burdastyle magazine, but just occasionally their styling options leave a bit to be desired…
Oh, and please note, it may not be obvious from the photo but my plaids front and back match up perfectly!  Plaids not matching up is one of those little things that I find pretty irritating if I see it… (yah, neurotic, I know)
Below is the review I submitted to Pattern Review, if you’re interested.

Details:
Dress; Burdastyle magazine 05-2010-111 with minor alterations, brushed cotton
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes
Sunnies; RayBan

Pattern Description:
Slightly flared shirt-waister with long front polo fastening and flapped breast pockets
Pattern Sizing:
38-46,  I sewed a size 38.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Pretty much.  I added some bits and made a few variations.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the basic pattern.  It was a bit too basic for what I had in mind, so I added a few details.
Fabric Used:
brushed cotton
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added buttoned arrowhead tabs to the shoulders (purely decorative) and also to inside the sleeves so the sleeves can be rolled up to elbow length and buttoned in place.
I added inseam side pockets.
On my version the straight up-and-down side seams are slightly shaped to give some vague hint of a waist.
I omitted the belt carriers because I saw no need for them, also to put the inseam pockets at this level of the dress.  If I wear a belt with this I will have it around the waist.
I put only one button and buttonhole on each of the breast pocket flaps, because I thought the two buttons per flap looked a little fiddly and would be annoying to open and close.
The lower edge I hemmed in a nice curved classic shirt curve.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
If I needed another shirtdress I probably would use this pattern.  And I would definitely recommend it to others as a good basic pattern.
Conclusion:
Great pattern, very easy to make, and I love it!  I wasn’t initially excited by the picture in the magazine of this dress, well to be brutally honest my first impression was that it looked awful, and outdated.  I think the belt was the problem.  But with the little added extras, lifted from RTW mens’ shirts and ladies shirtdresses I’ve seen around, I’m now super happy with how it turned out.

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