Tag Archives: Vogue 1105

To dryclean or not to dryclean, that is the question

On the weekend I wore this to a wedding reception…
(sorry, didn’t get a picture with my hair up and my make-up all done, this is the old photo from when I blogged about it previously and I did look more glamourous on the night!)
and my husband and I danced up a storm on the dance-floor afterwards.  When I got home I laid the dress aside in the laundry, thinking without thinking (if that makes any sense at all) I would drop it in at the dry-cleaners the next day.
But then I recalled a conversation I had a few months ago with a friend who, along with her husband, used to run a dry-cleaning business.  She was telling me how dry-cleaners charged a fortune for evening dresses because of the difficulty involved and the high risk of ruining them, how the chemical process was actually damaging to delicates such as silk and actually shortened their life, and how you are far better off washing them yourselves at home.   Hmmm.  Food for thought.
After all, garments have survived for centuries without dry-cleaning, the magnificent silken and bejewelled gowns of Elizabethan times were, yes, tended and handwashed without the use of chemicals, just good old-fashioned soap, water, air-drying and a hot iron…  That’s when they were washed at all, possibly once or twice in their lifetime! or so I’ve read!  Even so… centuries later why have we complicated our laundering process, and is it really necessary?
The cleaning instructions provided with most clothing, and how manufacturers often put “Dry Clean Only” on their care labels, are (I think) a kind of fall-back, fail-safe, laundry-guide-for-dummies, kind of attitude.  Some labels are quite mystifying.  I have a skirt, bought in quite an expensive boutique many years ago, which has on its label, hilariously, “Do Not Wash” and “Not Suitable for Dry Cleaning”!  What the…..?!  (For interest, I have always just tossed it in the washing machine on a cold cycle, with no dire outcomes)
So, I looked at my evening dress, and decided to wash it myself.  This was easy; light swirling in a laundry bucket, thorough rinsing, blah blah, hung out to dry on its hanger with pegs on the straps so I wouldn’t come out later and see it adorning a neighbour’s tree… The difficult part, obviously, was going to be in the ironing of it.  I didn’t include a picture of it before ironing, you’re just going to have to take my work for it that it was veeeeery crinkled….  I consider myself a reasonable iron-ess (whatever), but this dress has a multitude of  swirly bits, and an awkward gathered/folded bodice on a formfitting underlining…tricky stuff in the ironing department.  However, I recently bought a ham from Spotlight for the purpose of making my life much easier in shirtmaking for my husband.  And should come in handy pressing my own jackets and my trenchcoat (if it ever cools down enough for me to wear it); the pressing of the sleeves once set in is always a hideous challenge when you’re working with a standard garden variety ironing board…  On a side note I just love its cheery tartan cover!

Although it took some time I was pretty happy at how easy it was to iron the bodice of this dress using my new ham, I simply couldn’t have done it without it.
And after, good as new, and ready for that next glamourous soiree…

Would I hesitate to wash garments myself next time?  No!!
What do others do with their evening wear?

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This summer’s cocktail dress

Finally decided to post a picture of my new cocktail dress made quite recently.
I love this pattern from Anna Sui for Vogue; I think the ruffles at the back are gorgeous and so feminine.  Sometimes the back of an outfit can be a letdown from the excitement of the front, but this dress is not of that category, in my humble opinion (IMHO, finally worked out this previously baffling acronym the other day!)
I chose this pattern partly because I loved it, also because I wanted the challenge that the pattern cover promised.  I used silk crepe de chine; why oh why do I continue to torture myself with this crazy, slippery, flighty fabric with its willful, wayward mind all of its own?!  Don’t answer that.  Of course I know that it is the challenge that draws me; also silk is truly the king of evening fabrics for both looks and the luxurious feel of it, peerless IMHO (ok, I’ll stop that now).  And actually I’m overdramatising the difficulty factor as usual, I had only a few torturous moments; all to do with the set-in godet in the skirt front.  This whimsical designer touch had to be unpicked and redone once because the fabric kept developing strange inexplicable bumps, probably due to the bias seaming.  Eventually I went with carefully hand basting the seams, and topstitching at a snail’s pace to achieve a smooth enough finish for my satisfaction… Very challenging but not hair-pullingly so.  I am pretty darn proud of the final look.
I also included a photo of my usual method of cutting silk fabric pieces… I cut out the paper pieces, then use my rotary cutter on the fabric.  I hold down the fabric flat with the big see-through ruler seen in the picture (it probably has some proper name).  I use this method because it avoids pins in the fabric, the fabric is held down flat and undisturbed by pin/scissor pulling and tugging which may cause shifting and bunching, and the rotary cutter gives a nice clean cut edge.  I carefully add pattern markings after cutting.  I’d be interested in how other seamstresses handle the slipperiness of silk.
For the shoulder straps I used a chocolate brown sequinned ribbon, and all the edgestitching and topstitching was done in a deep chocolate brown.  I love this contrast, and how it goes with my Icelandic shoes!

Other details:
Dress; Vogue 1105, cream silk crepe de chine
Shoes; KronKron of Iceland, bought online
Stole; d/lux, from Calico and Ivy
Bag; Accessorize, gift from my children
Necklace; gift from my husband

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