Tag Archives: Vogue 1170

A Genuine Leather (ette) skirt

I’ve made another winter skirt.  From the tanned hide of that elusive and rare wild beast; the leatherette.  Classy, non?
Hehe, so I’ve made bags and tablecloths using PVC before, pretty simple beginner’s type stuff; but this is the first wearable garment I’ve attempted from this sort of stuff.  Phwoar!  A first! (self high five)
I spotted this fab leatherette at Fabulous Fabrics, and practically pounced on it.  The colour is a pretty awesome colour for winter, no?  Sorta grey, sorta brown.  Very moi.  There was also a marvellous dirty pumpkin colour, which was pretty divine.  That one was darn tempting as well.  I’ll be honest with you, I dithered.  But eventually I had to choose a colour, just one colour, although it was like having to choose between two of my children.
Oh, it also came in black, but that caused no dithering on my part.  I was dither-less in the face of black.
I used the skirt pattern from Vogue 1170.  I have made the top from this pattern already, reviewed here, but this is the first time I have made the skirt.
I bound all the raw edges with HongKong binding, as stipulated, and although I did buy lining fabric I opted not to use it.  The built-in body and stiffness inherent in this type of coated fabric along with the frictionless texture of the backing stuff means that sticking to tights is not going to be a problem here.  The leatherette is surprisingly soft and pliable to wear, although I can tell it is going to take some getting used to.  I feel almost Barbarella in this.  Modern.  A bit suave and sophisticated; a little bit “cool”.  Very unlike me  ðŸ™‚
above right; those funny fat seam allowances in the small of the back? That, my friends, is my sway back adjustment  ðŸ™‚

The pattern stipulates a hemline facing, which I did, but it was utterly disastrous in this fabric.  With the facing in place the hemline went from previously smooth and free flowing to stiff and awkward and pokey-outy  horrible.  Finally I decided that the best finish was to have the curved edge trimmed as smoothly as I was capable of, and left raw and un-hemmed.  Which is what I did after unpicking the hem stitching, and the under-stitching, and I even rescued the HongKong seaming off the facing also to use for a future project  (waste not want not, and all that….)  That was a whole heap of painstaking unpicking, I tell you.
What else… oh, I made the pockets deeper.  The pocket was pieced for reduced bulk., so that the pocket facings on the outer edges of the pocket are leatherette and lightweight polycotton forms the bulk of the pocket piece.  This polycotton was harvested from one of my old Pattern Magic muslins and was also used for the HongKong seaming.  Unfortunately the placement of the pockets is right on the hipbone, which means that one cannot really use them for anything bulkier than a tissue or a credit card anyway.  Just saying.  But at least the pockets are there!
Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1170, “leatherette”
Shirt; my own design, using several patterns, of black cotton mix, details here
Shoes; Perrini (I’ve had these for donkey’s years)
Pattern Description:
Flared skirt has front and back seam details, back invisible zip closing and wide waistband
Pattern Sizing:
4-10.  I made mine a straight size 10.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Well, mine resembles the line drawing on the envelope.  The photo on the envelope is completely featureless.  Black… really??  You can’t make out any details on the skirt at all!
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Pretty, flirty and feminine, resembling a straight A-line from the front view, and then frilly and twirly from the back view.  The angular seaming between the skirt and the front yoke is a nice feature.  I also like that lovely wide high waistband, and the instruction to bind all the internal raw edges with HongKong seaming is a nice finishing touch.  I really like to see patterns encouraging people to extend themselves to use high quality internal finishes like this.
A small gripe, the pockets are situated right high on the hip, so they not really very useful.  Also, in my opinion, the more “twirly” a short skirt is the more difficult it can be to wear.  I added 10cm in length to the lower edge of my lower skirt pieces.
Fabric Used:
PU laminate or “leatherette”, lightweight polycotton for the HongKong seaming
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
 I thought it looked quite short on the envelope photograph so I lengthened the skirt by 10cm.  This meant the skirt facing pieces were completely different to the pattern piece; but that was no biggie, I just used my new longer skirt pieces themselves to cut the facings.  However, I ended up not using them because this method of hemming turned out to be disastrously bulky with my PU.  I went with a clean-cut raw edge.
I made my pocket pieces longer for a deeper pocket, and pieced them to be PU for the facings on the edges, and lightweight polycotton for the central main part of the pocket piece; for lesser bulk.
I removed width in the back/side back seams for a sway back adjustment.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I would sew it up again … and already have!  ðŸ˜‰   And yes!
Conclusion:
A very nice skirt pattern, with interesting seaming and a pretty yet modern silhouette.  However I do think the skirt length as it is in the pattern presents an unbalanced and slightly unflattering silhouette, and adding just 10cm to the length substantially improved the proportions of the skirt.  I think it is visually important that the lower flounce at the back of the skirt be at least as long as the fitted yoke sections above it.  Shorter; the effect is slightly “top heavy”.
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A pretty silk blouse

I’ve made a blouse!  And it turned out raaather lovely, if I say so myself…  I used Vogue 1170, one of the patterns given to me by my children for a Christmas present.  I am super pleased with it! 
It is of very luxurious and quite expensive ivory silk charmeuse, with the exact same colour and the same classy, softly subtle sheen of a beautiful and perfect pearl.  It feels so luxe, and like the story of the magic cloak I immediately feel extra ladylike and elegant simply by the act of slipping it on!  
I felt uncharacteristically hesitant and nervous about cutting this out.  Mostly because, although I was excited about the idea of this blouse, and out of this completely divine fabric, I was still a weeny bit unsure that it would work out, and/or even suit me!  It is just such a very very feminine, pretty and super-sweet style, and I was worried that I could not carry this look off.  Trying it on during the making of it didn’t even assuage my fears.  I continued to be doubtful right up until the time I tried the finished thing on, finally.  And was relieved that I did actually still love it, even on me!  It is quite formal, I think; so I will be keeping it for smart and dressy occasions.  Although it does feel sooo nice against the skin, perhaps I should allow myself to wear it just whenever??  Hmmmm.   We shall just have to see about that one  ðŸ˜‰  anyway, tonight I wore it out for a special dinner at a swisho restaurant; and I felt perfectly chic.
This pattern stipulates a button band in the centre back, which I didn’t think is a particularly classy finish, especially for the quite formal blouse I envisioned.  So I sewed up most of the centre back seam, and inserted a short invisible zip at the top for closure, instead.  This does look quite good, but now I wish I had made a little faced slit instead and sewed on a few pearl buttons with skinny loops for closure.  I think now that would have looked much nicer!

Details:
Blouse; Vogue 1170, ivory silk charmeuse
Skirt; Vogue 8363 with modifications, of burnt orange raw silk, details here, my review of this pattern here, and see this skirt styled in 6 different ways here
Shoes; Sandler, I’ve had these for donkey’s years and they match the blouse perfectly….

Pattern Description:
Very loose-fitting top has front keyhole opening with knot, back yoke, back band extended sleeves tied into knots and back button opening.
Pattern Sizing:
4-10; I made the size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I thought it looked fantastic on the pattern cover, and I love the little knot and how the fabric falls in these beautifully draped folds across the front.  The little ties on the sleeves are really lovely.  The blouse is just so elegant and feminine.  A tad on the formal side for my everyday tastes, but a girl needs a few pretty dressed up tops too!
What don’t I like about this pattern… The instruction to hand gather the underarm seam seems like an uninspired finish, especially considering one has gone to the trouble to apply French seams throughout otherwise.  After hand-gathering mine I thought it looked shoddy.  I tried going over it with the machine but my fabric is very densely woven as well as slippery and the gathers are quite tight and I was terrified of ruining the (almost finished) top.  So I let it be, as partly a hand-gathered seam and partly machine-finished.  But I’m not completely happy with this bit.
I thought the back button band too casual a feature on what is quite a dressy little number, so I did something different on my version.
Fabric Used:
Silk charmeuse
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Instead of the button band down the centre back I substituted an invisible zip and sewed up the back seam.  But I wish now though I had left a short opening and used a couple of pearly buttons and skinny button loops for closure, I think that would have looked a lot nicer and neater.
I considered doing those narrow hems on the neckline and the sleeve ties as per the instructions.  Briefly.  But my fabric is exceedingly slippery dippery stuff; and so decided instead to use the rolled hem attachment on my overlocker for these edges.  This gives a much neater and more consistent finish for this fabric.  Trust me, I’m speaking from experience here…!
I finished the lower hem by hand.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Probably not, but one should never say never!  Maybe I will want another one of these one day, but will first have to think of some better way to finish off that underarm seam! 
I highly recommend this pattern for a very pretty and very feminine evening top.  It gets muchos compliments!
 Conclusion:

I’m very happy with my blouse now, but my fabric was very difficult to sew.  It didn’t want to be French seamed, and even less did it want to be narrow hemmed and then gathered and oversewn, as in the underarm bit.  Silk charmeuse is tricky at the best of times and in the simplest garments, and forcing it into curved French seams is not an easy ask.  But I am glad I persevered with this fabric, since I absolutely adore the pearlescent sheen of this luscious and luxurious fabric and it feels simply divine against the skin!!  And the end result is a very pretty and chic blouse, one that I will be very pleased to pluck out of the wardrobe for semi-formal events.

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