Tag Archives: Vogue 1170

my blue corduroy skirt

ok sure, I’ve made a few blue skirts before, and I’ve made a few corduroy skirts before, and I’ve even made a few blue corduroy skirts before too… And now I’m welcoming a new one to my wardrobe!  The best thing about this one?  a totally awesome new pocket!!  It’s almost more like a little bag than a pocket, and I could not love that idea more!

Cassie bought this very thin, lightweight, blue cotton corduroy from Tessuti fabrics for me, on my behalf, when she went over to Melbourne on a holiday with her now husband D… it’s quite lovely and it’s languished in my stash for way too long!  I made it one of my “use 12” for this year as a way of forcing myself to finally make something with it.  It’s crazy, but I often struggle with using my favourite fabrics, preferring somehow to make things with fabric I don’t like very much.  It’s like I’m afraid of ruining my favourites… yes I’m trying to get over this…

The pattern is Vogue 1170 a pattern I’ve used several times before, and the ultra cool hip holster pocket is from the Anzu cargo skirt pattern by Waffle Patterns.  I really love this pattern and basically bought it as soon as it was released!  I would really like to make cargo skirt as per the pattern sometime, when I have the appropriate fabric.  Mmm hmmm; as silly as this sounds, because I still feel like I have masses of fabric, I don’t actually have any appropriate fabric in my stash.  AMAZING!!  I’m really trying to use only stash fabric for the time being, as much as possible.  Hey, if I change my mind about this restriction, then I change my mind.

I added a lining, using my own personal skirt block… and some pretty aquamarine teal polyacetate fabric that was already in my stash too.  The only thing I had to buy was the zip!

This is the latest thing in my proposed “use 12” for this year…

If you’d like to check out a quick and fun video of the making of this skirt, then please consider having a squizz at my video on my youtube channel… I even worked out how to add music this time, yay!

I’m wearing it here with two of my recently made merino Nettie tees, my self-drafted tights, and boots bought with a birthday voucher given to me by my friends.

https://youtu.be/YzN8_s3kbC4

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rows of little white cottages

I’ve made another skirt and top set for Cassie  :

  

Patterns; the Tshirt is the Named patterns Inari tee, and the skirt is Vogue 1170.  I’ve made several of these skirts now, and quite a few are now owned by Cassie.  The only alteration I made was to lengthen it by about 5cm, and leave off the pockets.  Oh, I also made a few fitting alterations… even though I’ve made the pattern several times and I really like it; however the fit is actually not very good.  Fortunately though it’s an easy fix, taking in each of the side/back seams… my alterations to the skirt seams are pictured with my original review of the pattern here, and basically I have to make very similar alterations for Cassie

Fabrics; both from Spotlight..  I spotted this cute cotton jersey with its wonky rows of houses during Christmas shopping, and while I’d already bought her Christmas fabrics I just couldn’t resist! Cheerful, cherry red background, and those cute little white cottages with pink and teal rooves! And by the way, what’s with me and pink and teal this year??  I’ve made four things so far this year and they have all been deep blue and/or pink.  Weird!  Anyway, the print is cute and young and fun and just right for her colouring, all round just perfect … and I knew she has lots of skirts and jeans that would be perfect with it…
Then I vaguely thought maybe a navy  blue skirt would make it a nicely complete set, and she desperately needs skirts for work too … and lo and behold what should be lounging languidly about in the very next aisle but this teal blue suedette, which is a PERFECT colour match for the rooves.  BAM!  DECISION MADE.  Lugged them both to the counter without a second thought, brought them home, tossed into the washing machine.

About this time, I saw that happylat had also made a Tshirt from this very same fabric. What can I say, but great minds think alike!

I lined the waistband with some of the house fabric… not because I had run out of suedette or anything, but I just thought it was cute and I wanted to tie the two pieces together!

this is on grain, I promise!! the print is just naturally, and charmingly wonky

The suedette “looks” nice and perfectly suede-y, but it frays like billy-o.  I finished all the raw edges on the overlocker, and the lower hem with a bias cut binding cut from a scrap of purple/blue micro fibre.  tutorial for this bias finish is here

The Tshirt is made up just like the pattern, except for the neckline… I’m lazy with my Inari necklines and have pretty much finished them all off like this!  Just overlocked the raw edge, turned it under and topstitched from the right side.  Since it’s quite a wide neckline and doesn’t stretch out when you put the Tshirt on and take it off, the stitches won’t snap and this kind of finish works perfectly well.

The lower hem is finished with my twin needle.  Lisa asked about channelling with a twin needle.. all I can say is that I’ve never had channelling and what’s more I have no idea how I’ve avoided it so far either!!  Only thing I can think of: I always finish the raw edge on my overlocker, then topstitch with the twin needle, and that’s it!  Maybe the overlocked edge stabilises the fabric and that’s what stops a channel forming?  That’s the only reason I can think of anyway.  🙂
red threads on top, white in the bobbin; white overlocker thread

So! New outfit for her.  I think it makes a really cute ensemble and will get lots of wear, both together, and also separately a lot too, probably.  See, in my experience deep blue skirts are just about the most useful things a girl can have in the wardrobe… and she practically squealed when I brought out the Tshirt! so I knew that was a winner too.  Truly, she’s happy, therefore I am too  🙂

Later edit; at the time of making, she was pretty adamant that she didn’t want it lined so it would be cooler to wear in summer… however! the suedette is a little clingy! so, to give her the option, at least, I quickly ran up a simple little half-slip for her to wear underneath.  Vogue 1247 with the pieces spliced to simplify it as much as possible, navy blue, polyacetate lining fabric. .  A skinny 1cm finished width, uninterfaced waistband, a finished slit at CB and no zip, and with one small snap for closure.  Easy peasy!

  

Details:

Top, Inari tee by Named patterns, cotton jersey
Skirt; Vogue 1170, lengthened, suedette
Petticoat; Vogue 1247, pattern pieces spliced, navy blue polyacetate lining fabric
Shoes; Melissa

   

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“Baseball” skirt and tee

This is just a bit of silliness really; remember I said I had some idiotic plans for my leftover off-white leatherette? well I just hopped straight into it.  This is a new skirt, leatherette with red stitching to delineate the seam lines, baseball-like.  Yeah I know, kinda weird; and I’m still wondering if I ruined the skirt with that stitching! but it’s just a bit of fun really.  I figure if I absolutely hate it down the track I can always pull out the baseball stitching  🙂

I used this picture to help me

The pattern is Vogue 1170; my fourth iteration of this pattern.  I chose it because it had lots of seam lines! and I lengthened it as much as I possibly could given my small piece of leatherette.  Actually, this is a good skirt for a smallish odds and ends of fabric; surprisingly good considering its flippiness.  It’s only the two large front-and-back pieces that take up the most fabric; the smaller pieces can be cut out of edges and corners and other off-cuts.  I left off the pockets and fully lined the skirt with cream polyacetate lining fabric; and I cut the waistband a lot narrower and on a curve to follow the curve of the skirt top.  This resulted in a much better fitting waistband than the original straight one, imo.  Also, I’ve learnt my lesson from my previous leatherette skirt where I found the leatherette waist facing kinda icky worn against the skin; and cut the waistband facing in white linen.  Much nicer!

The stitching is in red silk thread, which I’ve had for years… er, 21 *blush* but who’s counting!  😀 a leftover from knotting Tim’s quilt; and a small portion in matching red topstitching thread, which I ended up having to buy new (grrr!) when I didn’t have just quite enough of the silk.  Don’t you hate that!!
I did the stitching in two passes, first time you do alternate halves of the “wings”, and the second pass you finish off the other side of each one.

And because a baseball skirt needs a baseball tee, I made one; just because  🙂   I used two old Tshirts from my refashioning bag.

OK, I thought that this is what a baseball tee looks like; but imagine my disappointment when I googled images of baseball players to see that they actually don’t wear this sort of two-coloured raglan-sleeved tee at all! but instead have a big baggy short-sleeved top, sometimes with a close-fitting long-sleeve top underneath.  NO raglans to be seen.  Confused!   So; why is a tee like this known as a baseball Tshirt, when actually it is not?!  I would love to be enlightened.  Anyhoo; I made it from from my own custom pattern, using an old raglan sleeve tee to help get me started and then fiddling and fine-tuning to fit me.  The embroidered motif on the front of the blue Tshirt, I positioned on the back of the new Tshirt.  It was either that or cut it in half, and even though my new tee is a cobble-together job, doesn’t mean it has to look like one!

With the neckline binding; I cut strips from the sleeves of the cream tee and joined them to get one long enough to do the neckline.  And this time I cut the strips with a bias joining edge: you can just barely make out the join in this picture.  This gave such a vastly superior finish to my usual method of joining on a straight seam!  and I can’t believe it has taken me sooooo long to work out this might be a better thing to do.  Up until now I’ve used a straight joining seam, and the bulkiness of all the layers in that bit make for a slightly bubbly and bumpy bit at that spot on the neckline.  So I hide this by positioning it at the back of the neck somewhere; but if the seam is on the diagonal, like here, then there is less bulk and very little bump issues.  Don’t know why it’s taken this long for the lightbulb to go off, but better late than never  🙂

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1170 with minor modifications, off-white leatherette with red decorative top-stitching; my review of this pattern here and my tips for working with leatherette here
Tshirt; self-drafted, made from two old Tshirts
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes

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I dye…

…  literally.  I’m dyeing heaps of stuff lately.
My ultramarine corduroy skirt.  I was bored with it, and didn’t wear it at all during me-made May even though it was season appropriate.  That is A Sign.  I dunno, I’d gone off the colour; the brightness of it felt a bit passe, a bit garish, not serious enough for winter.
So…. to the dye pot!   Plunging your clothes into a pot of dye feels so adventurous, and a little bit dangerous.  Like a thrilling, reckless and risky thing to do.  Yeah?  Man, I need to get out more.
This was dyed with iDye in Chestnut.
It did come out a lot less brown than I thought it would.  I thought, bright blue mixed with orange-y brown would maybe beget a chocolate-y offspring, or a deeper version of the corduroy in my hoodie jacket I am wearing above.  The new colour reads like deep dark petrol, a dirty midnight blue and I like it all over again now.  I’m super happy with the nuovo neutral-ness of it.  Feels like an actual new skirt, yay.

Then I turned to my ombre-d red velveteen skirt.  I did this only last week, but when I compared it to my original version, I realised that my re-ombre-ing efforts had been pretty darn pathetic.  So I re-ombred the re-ombred skirt in iDye in Brown.  So now it has been re-re-ombred.  Ha!
And my sludgy little skirt had lost some of its sludge, so it got a fresh dunking and a soaking in the leftovers.
Re-sludge-ing, accomplished.

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1170, blue corduroy dyed chestnut, original details here and my review of this pattern here
Top (under); the loose drape top from drape drape, white cotton, details here
Hoodie; self-drafted, made from a pair of old corduroy jeans and long sleeved Tshirt, details here
Tights; self-drafted, black merino wool fabric, details here
Boots; nylon, from Zomp shoes

Red skirt; Vogue 1247, red cotton velveteen ombre dyed brown at the top, details here

Brown skirt; Vogue 1247, purple denim dyed brown, details and my review of this pattern here.

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Leatherette A-line skirt; 6 different ways


I don’t wear this faux leather skirt nearly enough, given that it is actually a pretty cool skirt.  I think maybe that is the problem…  maybe it is too cool for me!  I’m not really used to wearing much leather or faux leather, except in shoe, boot or bag form.  But, using my imagination I can discern that the weather seems to be making a very veeery gradual descent into overall cooler temperatures, so I’m thinking about those parts of my wardrobe again.  And about giving all those little sundresses a break.  I think this skirt deserves to make a few more appearances and get worn, dammit.
I made it using Vogue 1170, and it first appeared along with my review of the pattern, here.

Below left; worn with a matching, wool and faux leather military style jacket with knitted sleeves.  Haha, of course this skirt and jacket wasn’t ever intended to become a matching set, just that I had some of the leatherette leftover, enough to squeeze out some of the pattern pieces of the jacket.  Bonus outcome, a sorta suit!  Random observation, I am fair dinkum sweltering in this photo here! so this will be a very good ensemble for winter; some day when I get the fashion urge to channel Star Trek or something.
Below right; peeping out from one of my most recent creations, the bell sleeved denim top.  I have to admit; this is my favourite of the bunch.  I’m kinda head over heels in love with it.  I like the contrast of the unpretentious honesty of blue cotton denim against more sophisticated smooth and glossy leather; and the casual, easy-fitting and very un-body-con vibe of the shapes here reminds me of those lovely Japanese pattern book looks.

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Below left; with a plain white Tshirt and black snakeskin cardigan; hmm another of the faux leather components of my collection!  This might even be an office appropriate outfit; not that my office requires one.  I have a friend who does the very same job I do, and we often joke about our “work wardrobe”, haha.  Which generally features shorts and thongs, or a dressing gown and slippers, depending on the season, and a dog under the desk at your feet.  I would need an outfit that fitted smartly into a real office for about 2% of my actual working week, tops.  But I would wear this for such occasions.
Below right; the colours blend in nicely, and the vertical lines of the folds in the skirt are nicely visual juxtaposition against the random diagonal folds of this painted silk, Issey Miyake top.  I was pretty pleased to discover this skirt and top look great together.
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Below left; I like unexpected things and what could be more unexpected than a leather petticoat?  Skirts underneath a dress or dresses over a skirt, take your pick; is a terrific combination for a cooler day.  I’m wearing here my trusty eggplant dress; add a big drapey berry coloured scarf over the top, and I think this is a nicely layered autumnal ensemble.  Below right, maybe a bit smarter or more preppy whatever that means; I’m wearing a little triple-collared shirt with a net cardigan over, all in visually peaceful gentle shades of grey, coffee and white.  I’ve always loved these subtle pale neutrals here.  When I started my blog my aim was to branch out and incorporate new and more interesting colours into my wardrobe.  So I do enjoy flirtatious adventures with real colours sometimes, but only tempered with plenty of safe retreats to my ol’ pale and drab faithfuls.  I think I enjoy colours like a holiday, playing with them for a few exciting funfilled days at a time, and getting back to my neutrals is like coming back home into your own comfy familiar space again.
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Hmmm.  Waxing lyrical about colours as a metaphor for life again, for heaven’s sake.  Somebody stop me.  Anyhoo, whatever; I think I’ve ignited a fresh love for my comfortably, blessedly colourless faux leather skirt.  Now I just need the weather to co-operate so I can wear it!
Oh, what am I wearing today?? today I am wearing the eggplant dress just above, but sans the extras.  Like I said, it still feels like summer here, no joke.
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Cut me a little Black

In my recent, gloriously ruthless, spring clean-out of my wardrobe, I culled an evening gown, originally made using Burda 8046 and first posted here.  I’ve worn it about seven times in total; none in the past three years; and have now decided it is too young for me.  Cassie didn’t want it either… so rather than toss it the Salvo’s way where someone might snap it up only to butcher it for something else, I decided I wanted to have that wicked pleasure for myself… mwahaha   🙂
The fabric of the lower skirt section is an almost translucent, lightweight, black silk taffeta, and it has a combined lining/crinoline of soft black tulle.  And please don’t worry about that beautiful heavily sequinned and beaded fabric on the bodice section, it will not be wasted and will be put to good use, I absolutely promise!

I was pretty pleased to get the skirt pieces of Vogue 1170 from the lower skirt section, and I also fashioned a new attached crinoline from the old one too.  This has a lot of extra gathering in the very back region, creating a really frothy bit to help that flounce flounce.  Hopefully in a feminine and attractive way  🙂

I even re-used the zip! hehe, of course it was too long but I left it long.  It is no bother; sandwiched unobtrusively between the skirt and those tulle gathers it cannot be seen or felt!
I eliminated the centre front seam and cut the skirt front/back section as one big massive piece.  I was able to do this by incorporating part of the ballgown side seams, and at the centre front and halfway around towards the back some of the original hem has also been left intact.   Instead of cutting a hemline facing as stipulated in the pattern, I hand-stitched a narrow hem to mimic the remains of the original on my ballgown.  My skirt is about 10cm longer than the pattern.

I also cut the centre back and side back pieces to incorporate my slight sway back alterations to the pattern, illustrated in my first version of this pattern here.
The waistband has a central vertical joining seam, and is about half the width, necessary adaptions due to the lack of fabric.  I think I do actually prefer it this narrower width too!

OK (deep breath, confession time)…. er, I left off the pockets too.
:O  
Hehe; normally I am such a rabid pocket-lover I wouldn’t dream of leaving off something so inherently marvellous, buuut…  (here we go) I sorta had to mostly through lack of fabric, but also, while wearing my previous two versions of this skirt pattern (here and here) I have found that I pretty much never use the pockets.  They are situated very high, and have a very narrow opening that is almost impossible to widen without disrupting the structural integrity of the skirt/waistband junction.  Furthermore: they are actually kind of a nuisance.  Since they are true “bags” that just hang there with nothing to tether them, they have a tendency to bunch up a bit when you’re putting the skirt on; and need to be manually smoothed down flat to avoid obvious bulges on one’s hips.  When the skirt is lined like this one; that is even more annoying to sort out: since you have to either do it from inside the pockets themselves (see previous note about laughably small pocket openings) or lift up the skirt and pull them down straight from underneath.   In short: I have to concede that this particular design is better off without them!   Shock!
And please admire my rather fantabulous new shoes for summer too.  They are from Misano, like my ballet flats.  This warm rich shade of caramel leather is definitely my kind of shade, and will liven up and enrich all of my favoured neutrals.  I like that practical wedge heel too, safer and a lot easier to get about in than a stiletto.  I am really looking forward to wearing them and wearing them.  These are going to be long term players in my shoe collection!

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1170 with minor modifications, a refashion of an old ballgown; black silk taffeta with a black tulle crinoline, see my review of this pattern here
Shirt; my own design, of black polycotton, details here
Sandals; a gift from Misano

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Ultramarine corduroy skirt; 6 different ways

Y’know, sometimes you add something to your wardrobe purely on a crazy whim and you have a teeny niggling doubt about how well it is actually going to work?  This ultramarine corduroy skirt, made using Vogue 1170 and first posted here; is one of those things.  I grabbed the fabric without thinking about it very much during a mad Spotlight sale.. you know, one of those instinctive “ooh, pretty colour” moments when you are rushing past a table of fabrics on your way to the cutting counter and your brain is on autopilot, really focused on getting in the queue before it builds up too much.
I think one of the reasons I really like doing these 6 different ways posts for myself is because of that old old wardrobe rule of thumb taught to me when I was growing up… every new thing you add to your wardrobe must go with at least six other things.  I am a very whimsical seamster, but once I’ve got something I do still like to mix and match and make sure a thing has several good options to partner up with; not just one other thing.  One must be practical  (sigh)
Luckily bright blue has slotted in very well after all, and I’ve grown to love its punchy shock of colour against my traditional pale and/or sludgy neutrals!  I have worn each of these outfits over the past month or so, and taken each photo on the day that I wore it.  With the exception of the first very summery one; I just put that outfit in there to show a bit of seasonal variety so to speak.  The weather is still coldish here… well it is for me anyway.  I am such a wuss in that regard.  But things are warming up very nicely lately.  Spring is in the air!

Below: at left; the skirt worn with the pretty knotted blouse that is from that very same Vogue pattern.  They are designed to go together and I do think they look very nice together.  I like the textural clash of decadent glossy silk against the homely corduroy.  I will wear this outfit on a much warmer day  🙂  At right; the blue holds its own when worn as part of a trio of bright colours.  Colourblocking!  Still a trendy concept, yes?  According to the shop windows here-abouts it sure is anyway.  Brights are gonna be “in” for the down-under spring.

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Below: at left; these muddy mossy shades of green against bright bright blue felt “wrong” at first but then I really loved them and was pleased I had forced them together.  Such an unexpected combination, it worked beautifully!  I felt sorta “art student” or “urban hipster” in this ensemble.  I felt cool.  In my book that is a very good thing.  At right; on a colder rainy day I wore a warm and cosy, all-charcoal-grey outfit with just one slice of bright blue corduroy showing to add a peep of colour.

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Below: at left; playing it safe, letting the brilliant blue colour take centre stage and be the prima donna against neutrals of black and cream.  A nice outfit, I liked it.  It is plain, but then again maybe this is very me.  I am plain!  At right; worn along with all the other bright blue garments in my collection, and with just wine-red leggings to break up the colour scheme and add another shade to the mix.

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What am I wearing today? well, actually yesterday I wore the last all-ultramine-blue-with-the-red-leggings outfit, just above.  I meant to post this yesterday, but got distracted with writing my review for shape shape, hehe.  Today I am still wearing the skirt, but with something completely different!

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Ultramarine corduroy skirt

Remember in my review of the Vogue 1170 skirt I mentioned I had already made a second version?  Well I finally got my act together and took some photos…
This ultramarine cotton corduroy caught my eye; (hardly surprising really  😉 ) and I just grabbed the bolt on a whim during Spotlight’s 40% off sale.  I had a sudden urge to add a touch more blue to my life.  Part of my on-going campaign to maintain some colour in my wardrobe.  I cleaned out and re-assessed my wardrobe recently and realised I still didn’t have very many fun and colourful options there.  I also realised I didn’t have as many “bottoms” as I thought too, thus the appearance on my blog here of a little flock of new skirts recently.  
And, speaking of colour; just wait ’til you see my new jeans too… hola!!   I’m dying to show them off here … soon… 😉
I made my skirt with a few minor adjustments to the pattern; I added lining, using the spliced pieces of Vogue 1247 as my pattern.   (I bought the acetate lining from Fabulous Fabrics, since the lining fabrics in Spotlight are the most hideous on the face of this earth….)

I overlocked all the raw edges inside; didn’t go with the HongKong seaming this time because of the lining.  Plus it is just corduroy…
My pockets are approx 5cm deeper (each pocket piece cut approx 10cm longer).  I added 10cm in length to the lower skirt pieces, as I did on my first version.  Can you imagine how short this skirt would be without that extra length?  Yowza!!

As stipulated in the pattern, I hemmed the lower edge with a facing.  Since I had added 10cm in length to the skirt pieces, this made my facing pieces different from the pattern, but it was a simple process to use my new longer skirt pieces as the template for the facing.  I managed to cut the facing out of the leftovers from the shirt I made for Craig here; a perfect colour match! and just saying; it took some cutting and piecing magic to get those facing pieces cut out all along the correct grain from my scraps…!  I was chuffed that I got it out successfully!

The shaped facing method is a nice way to hem a long curved hemline; one that I have used a few times before off my own bat, but this is the first time I have seen for it to be a recommended method of hemming in a commercial pattern, with a pattern piece provided and all.  This is something I really like about the Vogue designer patterns; they often come with those nice little extra finishing touches to push you in the right direction; methods which are not the fast and simple methods that we have become accustomed to from modern commercial patterns.  Sometimes I wonder if the big pattern companies “dumb it down” for the home seamster; assuming he/she is not capable or willing to go the extra mile for those professional finishes, that interesting seaming, or an otherwise complex garment.  Vogue designer patterns are rarely guilty of flipping out quick, slap-it-together, do-it-the-easy-way patterns, and for that I loooove them!
(Please don’t think me elitist here; I like the quick-and-easy patterns for basics too; but it is nice to have the option, y’know?  )
And; of course this is not what I am actually wearing today, not the heels nor the gloves!, but I just wanted to have a bit of fun with my photos.  You just have to mentally add the red carpet, the velvet ropes, the minder and the little dog in a bag.  I briefly considered having an actual dog but the reality is that she is way too big and hairy for any of my bags…  😀

This is one of those times when taking one’s own photo turns out to be very useful… looking at this one above is when I noticed that that hem at the centre back seam inexplicably dipped in situ, something that was not apparent looking at it flat.  I’ve fixed this problem now, but didn’t bother with setting up for a new photo… 😀

The lovely stamped pewter buttons were kept from off an old shirt.

Conclusion; a casual version of this interesting skirt pattern, and a fun and colourful addition to my wardrobe!
LATER EDIT: got bored with the ultramarine colour and dyed it, this skirt now looks like this

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1170 with minor modifications, ultramarine cotton corduroy, my review of this pattern here
Top; top “a” from the Japanese pattern book Unique Clothes Any Way You Like by Natsuno Hiraiwa, white cotton, details here
Shoes; Raymond Castles, had for yonks, nearly 30 years
Gloves; Vogue 7949, red cotton jersey, details and my review of this pattern here

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