When stitching an invisible zip into a delicate fabric, it’s a good idea to stabilise the fabric at the stitching line somehow, give it some oomph to help guard against ripping. Generally, patterns recommend using commercially purchased bias binding or tape, which is sewn to the seam allowance to double the thickness of fabric at that point. Me being kinda stinge-y I mean thrifty, ahem! I usually snip a strip of the selvedge off to use.
Why? several reasons…
The selvedge of any fabric, even delicates, is usually surprisingly strong and quite stable compared to the body of the same fabric.
Particularly with sheer fabrics; the selvedge, being exactly the same colour of course, will blend in perfectly and won’t show through to the right side of a sheer fabric at all. This is a big plus if your fabric is an unusual colour.
Also, you are making good use of the scraps that you would probably toss out anyway, which is more economical than not, yes??
Just stitch it down to the wrong side of the garment, as close to or just within the seam allowance. If your fabric is super delicate you could fold it over, or use a couple of strips layered together, giving you triple thickness fabric at this point…
Sew in the zip as normal…
Don’t worry about those fluffy messy looking edges, because once the lining has been stitched to the zip tape you can’t even see those scrappy edge bits anyway.
Great tip. I tend to sew with more forgiving fabric at the moment, but I'll try to remember this one. It makes a lot of sense. Thank you.
Awesome tip!Using the selvedge is a great idea. Thanks.
Great tip 🙂
Thanks for sharing this good tip. I will try it 🙂
Great idea!!!
What a brilliant idea! You never cease to amaze. 🙂
Thanks for this.
I shall have to remember that next time Im working with delicate fabrics.
Great tip – thanks for sharing. I was just using one of your tips yesterday.
Selvidge is great for so much – I use it inside pockets instead of twill tape.
I have a little zip lock bag that has my selvedges in. I use them for shoulder stabilisation as well.
Oh, this is a fabulous idea – totally copying it!
I am racking my brain trying to remember where I read this, years ago. Somebody's class, or Threads, or such. Love it to the point where I harvested the selvage from some silk organza to face a seam in a blouse, and never used the yardage of the silk organza. I bet I still have it somewhere. Raveling badly, I'm sure.
Thank you, this is a terrific idea. I have three pieces of gifted silk in my stash and have been too cowardly to make anything with them. Using the selvedge is such a great tip. BTW your fabric is lovely!
That is a useful tip! It seems the simple tips should be obvious, but are not (at least to me!). I admire your skills and always look forward to your next post.
Thanks for this helpful tip, Carolyn. I wish I'd read this and taken it to heart before my recent adventure with twill tape; using the selvedge might have been a good alternative.
I love this. I try to use the selvages from interfacing, but I occasionally need something lighter and better color coordinated, like a selvage.
Dang! This is one of those, "why didn't I think of this?" Things. I have been stabilizing pockets like this. The same treatment for zippers…You are a freaking genius!
Thank you for sharing this wonderful tip!
Great tip – thanks
It def makes a difference doing this. In the past I have used very soft interfacing (sew in) and also strips of silk organza selvedge, or sometimes not even the selvedge but just cut some long strips. Really helps zip insertion!
Ahhh, very smart!! I may have to do this for the Belladone dress I am starting to sew as I selected a rather delicate silver silk fabric. Thanks!
Thanks for this tip! I see I need to start saving my selvages:)
mmm, good! I have a dress that has been on my pile a long time (well, it isn't a dress yet, just fabric and a pattern!) and I knew the zipper would be an issue. Thanks for this tip!
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