One of my wardrobe renovations performed lately was to shorten this skirt by a good several inches; a super quickie reno, but one that nevertheless completely transformed this skirt for me from something that almost caused me to shudder whenever I happened to catch sight of myself in a shop window reflection, to something that I have been wearing with a lot more pleasure and more confidence in how it fits nicely in with my style now. Although I made it to wear this winter, it didn’t really “go” stylistically with any of the tops and cardigans, heck not even any of the shoes and boots that are the mainstays of my current winter wardrobe. When I trialled pinning it up a few inches; hey presto, problem instantly solved.
I do have this theory that when it comes to skirts we all have a personal Ideal Hem Length; that is good for YOU, and it could be a bad idea to mess around with it too much. For me, I think I prefer winter skirts to be EITHER about 10cm (4″) above the knee, OR quite long at midi-length, like roughly 20cm (8″) above the ankle. These are lengths that just look better with all my tops, all my shoes and that suit my personal style. Obviously I reserve the right to change my mind about that one, at any moment, according to any and all fleeting fashion whims.
Good thing I can sew for myself, hmmm? 😉
I had already finished the lower raw edge with violet bias binding, so to unpick and re-stitch it up a coupla inches higher was an ultra quick renovation… and the extra length is still there, should my wardrobe tastes migrate to embrace the aesthetics of different hem length.
now that’s a nice deep hem!
And now to another topic, slightly related…
Kathleen wrote a comment bringing up the topic of skirts; specifically, to line or not to line? That is the question! which I thought worthy of further exposition.
In the photo above I am actually wearing a full slip underneath my outfit, not that you can see it, which is the point really!
I line the majority of my skirts but not all of them, and it is always something to consider, how do you choose which gets lined and which does not?
I’m sure we’re all familiar with the horrible experience of your unlined skirt slowly and inexorably riding up your stockinged legs, as if driven by some strange evil impulse of its own… which is why a lining is a good idea. But for many of us in hot climates a lining can be a pesky thing that clings hideously to your sweaty legs for most of the year. So what do you do if you want a bit more versatility, for your skirts to see more active duty, to be an all-seasons item as it were?
The answer is of course, a separate slip or petticoat.
I chose to make this skirt without a lining because I wanted it to be transitional thing, to wear on both winter-y days and warmer bare-legged days too. And on cold days when tights are on, as above, I have a few slips, or petticoats that I can wear underneath, that do the same duty as a lining. In the outfit above, I am wearing a pale blue silk petticoat, chosen because the colour went with the rest of my outfit, not that you are supposed to see it! but still, just in case 🙂 I like my colours to “go”. So when re-hemming the skirt I was careful to hem it to a length that I could still wear my petticoats underneath it.
It’s always really good to have several petticoats or slips on hand from which to choose. I have eight full slips or petticoats in total, half of which could pass as little summer dresses if worn with extras: this pale blue one, a pale pink one, a beige one (easily my most useful one), a cream broderie anglaise one and a black one, shown long here but I have since re-hemmed it quite a bit shorter, and also three long and full-skirted ones, in yellow, pink and a white Metalicus one. I don’t have any half-slips… but then until I started listing them for this post I didn’t realise just how many petticoats I actually had and maybe I have an abundance already!
So, in summary: To Line, or to Slip? that is the (paraphrased) question…
Later edit: for those looking for a pattern; the lovely and clever Sherry of pattern scissors cloth (I miss her!) designed and uploaded the Ruby slip, a pattern for a simple bias cut slip with the option for a lace bodice, and also generously provided extensive and super helpful instructions. Available for free download here
Details:
Shoes, Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes
I know exactly what you mean about lengths of skirts. I have just had this dilemna with a dress, I hoping that when I shorten it to the right length for me it will be transformed. For me a hemline is just slightly below or on the knee. But its amazing the difference a few inches, be it higher or lower can make on your outfit.
I don't know why but I tend to line dresses but not skirts. Having said that, my recent pinafore was only bust lined, I have a little slippy nylon slip that goes under everything; skirts, net petticoat on my evening dress and under knitted tunics when I wear them with leggings or jeans. I guess the jury is still out! Jo x
Gosh I do totally agree that getting length right is crucial to whether you wear a skirt/dress or not. Being short I find that too much fabric swamps me and if my skirts are too long I can look dumpy, or as though I am a child wearing adults clothes! I find a few inches above or on the knee gives me a bit more leg visually, but I do sometimes get tired of the same sillhoutte (even if it is the best one for me). I notice your float-ier items are a bit longer so I suppose ideal length also depends on style.
I think my perfect skirt length is variable, but there are some definite no-goes. 😀 My winter skirt length is actually pretty short, anything between just above the knees and just about decently covering my behind. Summer skirts must be longer, though, since they don't get worn with tights! And anything that's longer than just below the knee makes me look seriously stumpy, so that's a no go…
I tend to line the skirts that I would mostly wear during fall/winter months, because when wearing them with full slips, I've noticed that they tend to slide around. Very inconvenient, that. Maybe wearing a half-slip would work better? When it's really cold, I wear even my lined dresses with a full slip, to add some extra warmth. 😀
I struggle with this very topic. I am the queen of having a skirt ride up my leggings or stockings and not notice until someone points it out. 🙁 I think some petticoats/slips are in order! Do you recommend silk as you've made them? Or do you have other preferences/tips for fabric choices?
I have a theory that vintage clothing was lined less often than modern clothing, partially for ease of cleaning and partially for reasons of thrift. It is certainly easier to launder a full slip than a lined dress. And quality lining can often be just as expensive as the fashion fabric, so it seems very sensible to me to have one good slip as opposed to lining every piece. Of course some pieces need to be lined for one reason or another, but I don't think an item must be lined to qualify as a high quality piece.
This made me chuckle. I used to have soooo many slips, full and half. Because I was a working girl and always work stockings, even here in Florida. And because I grew up with them! Just as I grew up with a complete wardrobe of gloves – all lengths and occasions. Now I only have mittens and leather gloves, and no slips or stockings 🙂 Your point about tights is well-taken, however. Fabric does crawl up tights!
I love the short skirt look on you, you wear it well. And have actually inspired me to 'up' my walking shorts recently! I don't know why I hemmed them so long in the first place, but I just re-hemmed 3 pairs!
I tend to line all the skirts, and dresses but actually I think petticoats are a much better idea for some of them. I really need to make some, now!
i haven't owned a slip since i was a kid, and hated wearing one for some reason–i'd always try to go without! with my sewing, i tended to line everything. but over the last year i've tried to line only when absolutely necessary and lately i've been wanting some slips to further reduce the need to line things. lining can double the cost of a new make, so going with a slip would definitely be more frugal.
skirt length… yes i definitely have a couple ideal lengths! it has to be just above my knee or 3-4" above, or full length. anything else looks out of proportion on me!
I sometimes line and other times don't. My usual length for a skirt is a couple inches above the knee. One project on the list for this winter is to make some slips, I have half slips but no full ones.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on linings and slips! As a new-garment-sewist-for-myself I wonder what to do with each skirt I make as sometimes I just simply do not feel like lining each and every one of them. Not having a sister to talk to about such subjects, I appreciate your insights. 🙂
I don't own any full slips, but I have several half slips in different lengths, most of which are beige and all are slinky fabrics. They do a great job of keeping skirts from sticking to legs or disguising underwear lines. I am not particular about how the slip itself looks, though — I have been known to hack the hem of a slip off to make it short enough for a particular skirt or dress. It's not aesthetically pleasing, but it still works;)
Same hemming job here in Oregon the last few days!
Thanks for picking up my question on slips versus lining. While I have a few RTW and one me made half slips stuffed in a drawer, I think the full slip is the way to go. I shy away from my skirts in cooler weather because I hate all that stuff around my waist: leggings or tights, skirt, slip… I know I won't make slips as gorgeous as yours, but I'm on the lookout now for an easy full slip pattern so I can enjoy my skirts year round!
Kathleen
Back again… For those of us in the U.S. who may have trouble sourcing Carolyn's Burda 3071, I found a couple of KwikSews that might work for a full slip attempt: 3395 and 3294(flared skirt could be tamed!).
Thanks Kathleen! and also I should mention that Sherry of pattern scissors cloth designed and uploaded a really great free pattern; the Ruby slip. available here
http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com.au/2011/12/ruby-slip-free-pattern-and-sew-along.html
I forgot but I totally should have mentioned it … and will update my post with the link too 🙂
I tend to lean towards slips rather than lining each garment. It is just more economical and it is easier to clean. I don't mind hand-washing some slips but I tend to shy away from high-maintenance fashion fabric because I _know_ it will sit in the laundry room for weeks until I "find" the time to deal with it. If I ruin a slip- it is pretty easy and cheaper to replace. It is funny how much sewing is about learning more about your tastes and habits.
I usually line skirts unless they are lightweight cotton. We don't get so much really hot weather that lining causes a problem….
yes I think slips are the answer, has anyone tried to buy one lately? impossible to find a nice one. Now I line most winter things for "slippiness" over my tights and then summer stuff as needed. I should make a new one.
You are so right about skirt length. I thought I should avoid short skirts, having reached 'a certain age', but they suit me and my legs are about the best bit of me.So, short they are! Or very long.
I would have argued for linings rather than slips until recently but have started to prefer slips. However, lining does prevent you from going away and finding that you have forgotten the essential slip to go with an outfit. Ask me how I know…..
Great post as usual Carolyn. I am a big fan of the full slip, they are very useful for that little extra layer (either for warmth or modesty), smoothing out underwear lines and allowing your frock to drape nicely. But as Beth above says, it is impossible to find nice ones, RTW are mostly unattractive. I procured most of mine in op shops but have occasionally lucked on lovely ones in independent lingerie shops.
And skirt lengths, after years of hoping different, I have come to accept it is either about 4" above the knee (at the slimmest part of my thigh) or just below the knee at the slimmest part of my whole leg. Anything else makes me look try hard or dumpy. But how I would love to wear ballerina length…..
I've been thinking about making a full slip because my half slip, slip around a bit.
After looking at some of my earlier work dresses, the hems are a bit too low to be at all appealing. So glad you brought up the 'ideal hem' topic to consider Carolyn.
Hi Carolyn, I am just taking up a too long skirt as well – I won't wear it, but shortened I will – I just looked dowdy and none of my practical low shoes worked.
I loved your post on the pale blue slip, where I discovered you are an ISTJ. I had already worked that out – so it was great to find out I was correct. Me I'm an INTJ.
The curse of the lining! I have just bought by my first ever slip because I have neglected to line a few dresses. Curses!
Hah! The big question! Like you I sometimes line and sometimes don't line for the same reasons. I also own several slips both full and half and think every woman should own at least one of each 🙂
Ah… hemlines…
I think I've sewn and worn anything from mini (about 15-20 cm above the knee, but only with thick opaque tights) to floor length over the past ten years…
When I started pattern making, my 'standard length' was just above the knee but in the past year or two, hemlines have crept down under the influence of my love for 1950's fashion. I think most of the skirts I make now reach to between 5 and 10 cm below the knee.
And I completely agree with you: every woman has her ideal skirt length(s), the trick is to find it. And it may change over time, with changes to one's body and/or dress style.
As I'm getting older, my skirts are getting longer and longer. In my teens and early twenties I wore some really short skirts. I remember some of them being 40 cm long from the waist down. That's short! The length of the skirt also varies with my weight – the more weigh I am, the longer the skirt is. Recently I've realized a tea length skirt with high heels looks great on me (gotta slim down!).
Oh, and I have one more "rule": a longer skirt looks better with higher heels, while the short one looks great with flats.
I'm in the slip camp, for sure. We used to have to wear tight or stockings, full slip, a hat or head cover, & sometimes gloves with our church dresses. I still love the slip and pantyhose. You inspired me to use my 90's slip dress pattern as a slip, Carolyn!