Tag Archives: My Views

Thoughts on hem lengths; linings and slips

18/09/2013 6:54 am \ 28 Comments \
One of my wardrobe renovations performed lately was to shorten this skirt by a good several inches; a super quickie reno, but one that nevertheless completely transformed this skirt for me from something that almost caused me to shudder whenever I happened to catch sight of myself in a shop window reflection, to something that I have been wearing with a lot more pleasure and more confidence in how it fits nicely in with my style now.  Although I made it to wear this winter, it didn’t really “go” stylistically with any of the tops and cardigans, heck not even any of the shoes and boots that are the mainstays of my current winter wardrobe.  When I trialled pinning it up a few inches; hey presto, problem instantly solved.
I do have this theory that when it comes to skirts we all have a personal Ideal Hem Length; that is good for YOU, and it could be a bad idea to mess around with it too much.  For me, I think I prefer winter skirts to be EITHER about 10cm (4″) above the knee, OR quite long at midi-length, like roughly 20cm (8″) above the ankle.  These are lengths that just look better with all my tops, all my shoes and that suit my personal style.  Obviously I reserve the right to change my mind about that one, at any moment, according to any and all fleeting fashion whims.
Good thing I can sew for myself, hmmm?  😉

I had already finished the lower raw edge with violet bias binding, so to unpick and re-stitch it up a coupla inches higher was an ultra quick renovation…  and the extra length is still there, should my wardrobe tastes migrate to embrace the aesthetics of different hem length.

now that’s a nice deep hem!

And now to another topic, slightly related…

Kathleen wrote a comment bringing up the topic of skirts; specifically, to line or not to line? That is the question! which I thought worthy of further exposition.

In the photo above I am actually wearing a full slip underneath my outfit, not that you can see it, which is the point really!

I line the majority of my skirts but not all of them, and it is always something to consider, how do you choose which gets lined and which does not?
I’m sure we’re all familiar with the horrible experience of your unlined skirt slowly and inexorably riding up your stockinged legs, as if driven by some strange evil impulse of its own… which is why a lining is a good idea.  But for many of us in hot climates a lining can be a pesky thing that clings hideously to your sweaty legs for most of the year.  So what do you do if you want a bit more versatility, for your skirts to see more active duty, to be an all-seasons item as it were?

The answer is of course, a separate slip or petticoat.

I chose to make this skirt without a lining because I wanted it to be transitional thing, to wear on both winter-y days and warmer bare-legged days too.  And on cold days when tights are on, as above, I have a few slips, or petticoats that I can wear underneath, that do the same duty as a lining.  In the outfit above, I am wearing a pale blue silk petticoat, chosen because the colour went with the rest of my outfit, not that you are supposed to see it! but still, just in case  🙂 I like my colours to “go”.  So when re-hemming the skirt I was careful to hem it to a length that I could still wear my petticoats underneath it.

It’s always really good to have several petticoats or slips on hand from which to choose.  I have eight full slips or petticoats in total, half of which could pass as little summer dresses if worn with extras: this pale blue one, a pale pink one, a beige one (easily my most useful one), a cream broderie anglaise one and a black one, shown long here but I have since re-hemmed it quite a bit shorter, and also three long and full-skirted ones, in yellow, pink and a white Metalicus one.  I don’t have any half-slips… but then until I started listing them for this post I didn’t realise just how many petticoats I actually had and maybe I have an abundance already!
So, in summary: To Line, or to Slip? that is the (paraphrased) question…

Later edit: for those looking for a pattern; the lovely and clever Sherry of pattern scissors cloth (I miss her!) designed and uploaded the Ruby slip, a pattern for a simple bias cut slip with the option for a lace bodice, and also generously provided extensive and super helpful instructions.  Available for free download here  

Details:
Top; Vogue 1115, blue denim details and my review of this pattern here
Skirt; Vogue 8363 heavily modified, green cotton corduroy, more details here and my review of this pattern here
Petticoat; Burda 8071, pale blue silk, details here
Tights; self-drafted, blue denim-look jersey, details here
Shoes, Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes
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Burda 7834, a pattern review

09/02/2011 6:03 am \ 17 Comments \

I’ve made another little top using Burda 7834.  It is such a quick and easy little pattern, I can see myself using it a few more times, in spite of the fact I will have to re-grade it each time I use it, as Cassie cut it out to a smaller size than I use…  well, it is her pattern so I suppose that is OK…!
This top is using up some scraps; the silver-grey portion is the last leftovers from this skirt, and the contrasting stripe detail was juuuust squeezed out from the the remaining fabric from this shirt.  Oooh, I just feel so undeservedly virtuous and pat-myself-on-the-back-ish when I use up some leftovers…!  like I’ve been a really good greenie and I’m doing just a tiny weensie little bit to Do My Bit in the planetary scheme of things.  As well as satiating my inner scrooge, by getting a free top from otherwise rubbish-y little scraps!
The funny thing about this top along with its apricot mate, that I made the previous weekend, is that although they are entirely different colours, I used exactly the same topstitching thread, and the same colour zip for both tops; pale grey.  How’s that for weird?  Assessing the zips available, this colour was the logical choice in each case…  which goes to show… something, I don’t know what.  Probably nothing.  Except that colour matching follows no hard and fast rules and can be a purely subjective exercise.
So, on to the review…

Pattern Description
Loose-fitting, short kimono sleeved, V-neck top with a central back zip, and separate pieces for arm bands, neckline band and under-bust band
Pattern Sizing
6-16, European 32-42; I made a size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes
What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern?
I like that it is a very quick and easy pattern, and makes up a cute little top.
I was only a little unhappy that (when the instructions are followed) it is not finished to super high standards on the inside.  For example, the side seam allowances end up visible on the underarm sleeve edge, whilst I would prefer for them to be encased within the two layers of the sleeve band.  Also, the neckline band at the back has to be folded back over the zip tape and doesn’t enclose it within the two layers, which would be a preferable and neater finish.    However if you don’t mind a bit of extra fiddling you can adjust these features to be more well finished off on the inside.  If you are just after a quick and easy little top and aren’t really worried much about perfect insides, then the method given is just fine.
Just an extra thought; doing up the central back zip might be awkward for some who are no longer super agile.
Fabric used:
I’ve made this up once in crushed silk and once in a synthetic stuff with contrasting cotton mix bands, but I think any crisp light blouse fabrics would be perfect.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
None.
Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend this to others?
Definitely I will sew this again, and I do recommend it to others.
Conclusion:
A nice and simple little top, both in looks and construction.  A useful casual wardrobe-builder to have in your collection.

btw, I just have to say something here, my own opinion… occasionally I come across a review in Pattern Review where under “were the instructions easy to follow?” a reviewer writes something like “didn’t even look at the instructions, lol!” or something equally breezy and dismissive.  In such cases I have to confess I usually read no further as (imo) this is not a review but a seamstress being a bit of a show-off, like the instructions are beneath his/her notice.  If you are not going to even read the pattern instructions, let alone assess them, then your “review” is worth nothing.  There are going to be some beginner seamstress’ out there who will want to know if the instructions have any difficult or unusual techniques, or nasty surprises, etc., before they fork out the money to buy the pattern.   I always thought this was the purpose of Pattern Review, but I get the feeling a few see it as a forum to showcase their creations, nothing wrong with that per se, but we have BurdaStyle for that purpose.  If the instructions are basic and easy to follow, then just say so without the condescending attitude.  Just saying…

Details:
Top; Burda 7834, silver grey crepe-y stuff with striped cotton mix contrasting bands
Shorts; Burda 7723, white linen
Thongs; Mountain Design
Sunnies; RayBan

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On ankle-strap shoes

11/12/2010 3:02 am \ 10 Comments \

Shoes with ankle straps are tricky.  I have this firm belief that they shorten and stumpify (I didn’t make up that word but isn’t it just perfect?!) women’s legs. Now shortening and stumpifying might be desirable to the rare woman with very long and skinny legs, and such woman may may experience an inexplicable wish to sabotage this wonderful feature of her body… but I think it’s safe to say for most of us we have the opposite intentions.  
So with this in mind I avoid ankle strap shoes like the plague.
I think they can ONLY be successful in very few cases; listed as follows:
1. You are the above mentioned lucky willow who wants her legs to appear shorter and … er,  stumpier…
2. You are wearing an above-knee garment.  No exceptions.  A skirt or dress hitting at or just below the knee, combined with a strap wrapped around the ankle; well that short section of calf in between hem and strap is not going to be flattered by being visually sliced off at it’s slimmest points ie, the ankle and the point just below the knee.  Oh OK, well it’s occurred to me there is an exception to this one; as follows:
3. You are wearing a floor scraping number, and so your ankles are hidden from sight underneath, in which case go for the ankle straps with a clear conscience.  No one can see the fashion crime occurring visually underneath your fabulous maxi-dress.  Relax and enjoy your cocktail.
Now this pair of shoes is the closest I have to ankle-strap shoes, and I did weight this fact up before deciding to purchase, and I ended up (obviously) going for them because the ankle strap was firstly, low enough that it sits over the foot, really more of a shoelace-y effect rather than an ankle strap, and secondly, the strap is really really skinny.  But possibly my ankle-strap phobia is the reason I don’t wear these shoes more often…
But my dress hits just above knee.  So I think it’s OK.  Hopefully the fashion police won’t come a-knocking…

Details:
Dress; NewLook 6699 with modifications, various printed cottons
Scarf; black net, refashioned from an old skirt lining
Shoes; Jocomomola

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Further from yesterday

28/11/2010 3:58 am \ 4 Comments \

Thankyou so much for your thoughts yesterday … and many of your comments resonated quite clearly with me and my own thinking on this subject; I also read a little bit more on Natalie’s findings and summary of her yearlong challenge here.  The bit about recognising the work of experts in their field (ie. shoemakers) and not trying to metaphorically reinvent the wheel, spoke to me.  I also had been feeling, like a lot of post-modernists, that I should be doing more for myself and making as much as I could… relying less on store-bought.  This is rooted in good intentions, but has limitations.  I can’t see myself attempting to make my own shoes or sunglasses, for example.  Is this a cop-out?  Well, no, because although I like to set myself challenges and rise to them, I do understand the findings of the makeshift project that some components of a project can be just so much wasted time for an amateur and that unnecessary self-imposed hardship could be viewed as just plain silly.  And just to clarify: I don’t view Natalie’s challenge as at all silly, on the contrary; I have enormous admiration for her achievement…
On the subject of challenges, well I have already committed myself to not buy any new clothing for myself, and I feel quite comfortable with that one, and actually not particularly challenged by this rule at all.  Thus my need to search for a new challenge?
I also feel that making new garments for myself, like basics such as Tshirts… when I have perfectly good ones already sitting in my drawers, is counterproductive.  So perhaps I’m just not ready for this particular challenge.  The notion of not allowing myself to wear certain items of clothing in my possession just because they happen to have been bought in a store, is not practical, and really doesn’t prove anything to anyone.
But I will continue to make my own clothes, and as the old store-boughts get to the stage of being consigned to the rag-bag, maybe I will be ready to do this challenge for myself.

But not the shoes!!

Details:
Skirt; my own design, based upon a basic three (six?) gore pattern Butterick 3134, printed polyester chiffon
Top; Tbox
Hat; Country Road
Tongs (flipflops); Mountain Designs
Sunnies; RayBan

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Thoughts on the “vintage” trend

20/11/2010 4:35 am \ 11 Comments \

A friend passed on to me tickets to a Vintage Market on this weekend, promising “Vintage and Retro Men’s and Women’s Clothing and Accessories”, and sorry, but I can’t help but feel a bit yawn-y about the whole thing.  And hate to sound cynical, but the current fad for “vintage” is just becoming a tad too commercial for my liking.  I’ve even heard stories of ladies who have been op-shopping like mad for this event, scooping up masses of clothing and up-marking it to put in their own “vintage” stalls in the market… well count me out.  
I’ve got nothing against op-shopping, per se.  Well, I have done it myself once in a while…  Op-shopping (if done when you can afford not to, I mean) is of course partly a political statement of one’s non-dependence on commercial and new products, and how better to make that first-impression “I rebel against the system” message than in your clothing?  As well as satisfying one’s artistic desire to dress uniquely, not to mention saving a few dollars at the same time; so it’s not surprising this is a long-term favourite occupation of real bohemian souls… 
But is one being truly thrifty or merely conformist when following the “vintage” trend?  Or worse, opportunist, as in the case of the Market sharks vendors.
So I think I’ll just be occupying myself with sewing and gardening this weekend.  Plus I’ve already got my own “vintage” (hahaha) treasures; this dress is very Jackie O, don’t you think?  I picked it up when she had her White House garage sale… of course I’m joking, I made this myself about five years ago, and no pseudo-retro or “vintage” pattern was used either, just an ordinary one.  Sorry to disappoint.  I’m merely wearing it to stay cool.
Funny thing when I was putting this on this morning; I put it over my head just as usual then struggled a little to pull it down, and I couldn’t understand why it felt tighter than usual.  Then went to pull up the zip.  The zip was already up.  Lol!

Details:
Dress; Burda 8511 slightly modified to fit, printed synthetic stuff (thus the “indestructible” dress)
Sandals; Franco Burrone, from MarieClaire shoes

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Style Statements…

26/08/2010 8:58 am \ 12 Comments \

Personal style blogs, anyone?  Personally, I adore personal style blogs.
I just love to look at clothing choices, how people interpret and use fashion, and am fascinated by the ability of clothes to express one’s personality somehow.  People-watching is such a fun and interesting thing to do, because you can really tell such a lot about someone, simply by the clothes they have chosen to wear…
Lately I’ve been toying with the idea of composing a personal style sentence for myself, just for fun.  I do think I’ve got a distinct style, and this blog is partly to help me determine what it is (you’d think at my age I’d know by now, yeah)  A personal style sentence would help me make choices in clothing, and everything else, that I won’t regret later, both in shopping for ready-made as well as in my sewing endeavours.
I’ve already had some debate with Mum and Cassie, about each of our own style sentences, but none of us are satisfied with what we’ve come up with.  I thought mine could include the word “sporty” but Cassie disagreed strongly.  It’s because she associates the word “sporty” with tracksuits, which I NEVER (ever ever) wear… but I am outdoors a lot and am reasonably active in my life so I think “sporty” could be in there somewhere.  “Polished sporty”?  Hmmm.  Have to give it more thought… but so far I’ve come up with some adjectives to play with: natural, simple, sporty-but-not-of-the-tracksuit-variety (outdoors-y?)…
I once read about a two-woman company, Carrie & Danielle, who assess people’s lifestyles and come up with a two word Style Statement to describe them.  Just two!  As an example; Modern Luminous.  The first word describes your core; the second word is your creative edge.  It’s a kind of style sound-bite, or mantra that is designed to streamline your consumption choices.  (Oh, and it’s nice to know it’s all positive; no one is classified as Grumpy Stress-bunny, or Whiny Neurotic…phew) While a small cynical side of me rolls my eyes at the narcissistic desire to categorise oneself, the other side of me is attracted to just that.  So part of me is “how silly” and the other part of me would just  love to know what my two words are…!
Afterthought: this was my ensemble for today’s agenda of dog-walking and bike-riding, followed by grocery-shopping and a smidge of office work.  It was good to be out and about on such a glorious day.  (and looking forward to the final of the Ben Cousins‘ documentary tonight…)

Details:

Cardigan; refashioned by me from husband’s old jumper, which has already stretched and is overlapped decoratively and fastened with a pin to a new better fitting position
Top; Sexy Woman, found secondhand
Jeans; Soon
Pony necklace; souvenir from girls’ weekend away, some little shop in Melbourne
Boots; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

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On growing old gracefully

26/07/2010 7:02 am \ 3 Comments \

Today met my girlfriends for a get-together and debrief after the school holidays…

{You know how when something is troubling you, a good bit of advice is to write a long letter to yourself where you can purge all the negativity out of your system?  Then you are supposed to rip up same letter and toss it out?  Well I just did that with this blog post.  I had written a long rambling lot of introspective balderdash…. I knew it was kinda silly when I wrote it, and even my husband came home and advised me it was not worthy…  the long and short of this is that the “blah blah blah” that was here before is gone from this blog.  If you have already read the first draft of weirdness and scratched your head wondering where was the expected sewing, knitting and fashion, well I apologise sincerely.  Sometimes one needs to vent.  And vent I did.  Sorry!}

Man…  as an afterthought; what on earth am I wearing? back to business… today wearing the khaki and air-force blue colour combo I predicted would be my staple for this winter.  Well, the denim is close enough to the “dirty” blue I’m loving; and the texture and colour of my scarf works just perfectly right for what I wanted, considering I dressed without much thought this morning.  Some of my favourite ensembles have been the result of a rushed thoughtless random grabbing of separates…

Details:
Dress; Cue, found secondhand and refashioned here.
Jacket; Ezibuy
Scarf; knitted by me from various wools
Leggings; Metalicus
Boots; Andrea and Joen; from Uggies

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Design manifesto

11/02/2010 4:05 am \ 5 Comments \

I came across this on outsapop, and yeah, says it all really.
However, I’d just like to expound on my personal philosophy on the subtle differences between inspiration and copying, and a further explanation on my label “own design” that I use from time to time.
I am inspired all the time by so much around me, including the work of great and talented designers and am often moved to create something for myself based on someone else’s idea.  However, the end result is often, if not always, very different from my original source of inspiration, perhaps because of some design whim of my own, or a personal colour/length preference, or to fit a quirky design detail within the practical considerations of my life.  In this case I consider myself to be “inspired” by another’s work, rather than for me to be “copying” another’s work.  It’s very rare that I set out to reproduce a piece exactly, and I’ll always reference my inspirations! some small consideration to intellectual property!
I do use commercial patterns, for basic shaping and sizing, but a lot of the time will add my own twist to a pattern.  Altering a hemline, neckline or incorporating fitting features are just part and parcel of basic dressmaking variations; but anything more complicated than this and I will start to consider added features as my own design, and I’ll label it as such, even though I always display my original starter pattern for reference.
As for the self-imposed fear that the home seamstress often has of “ripping off” designer items….
Take a basic blazer.  Who invented the blazer?  Let’s even take it a step further and narrow it down to a military blazer.  It’s been around since Civil war era and I’m pretty sure no-one knows who actually invented the thing, but it definitely wasn’t Balmain and yet I see fashion editorials devoted to the horror of “Balmain copies”…. please, it’s a trend, not owned by anyone, and free for the home seamstress to play with as much as she/he fancies.
I say if you want to take a piece of cloth, make your own sharp shouldered jacket and put a few brass buttons and epaullettes on, then yay for you!  You made yourself a blazer!  You win!
On a related note, true story: a few years ago I made myself a ball dress that I spattered all over with fabric paint and told a friend that I got the idea from a Dolce and Gabbana gown.  He asked if I was worried about getting sued.  Seriously.
What are other’s opinions on this point?

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