I’m scratching a long-standing itch by making something from this 1986 Issey Miyake pattern; Vogue 1693 … see, I’ve used it once before, when it very first came out! to make a skirt and the top for myself. I wore that outfit to a number of 21st birthday parties with my then brand new fiancé, now my husband 🙂 There’s probably a picture lobbing around somewhere of me wearing it, just don’t know where! perhaps in a few of our old schoolmates’ dusty old photo albums shoved in the back of a cupboard somewhere. My first skirt and top from this pattern was in a sateen with a rather psychedelic splotchy print of bright yellow, purple, a bit of bright orange and I think, splashes of black thrown in there. I remember being extremely proud of it, haha! I used to wear it with hydrangea purple court shoes, or pumps. We used to call them court shoes back then.
So, I think maybe it’s ok for me to claim this as a vintage pattern! and item number three going towards fulfilling my vintage pattern pledge… to make five items from my vintage patterns.
Fabric; a loose woven, slubby wool blend from Tessuti’s, Melbourne bought during a holiday over there with my Mum and Cassie. A bit rough in feel, but in a beautiful, high quality way, if that makes any sense at all; quite thick, probably too thick for the design in retrospect and it was a little difficult to make it work with the pattern, Almost cried a few times when I thought I’d ruined it, but managed to wrangle it into submission eventually. Major relief when it all worked out. I used the hammer a few times to flatten some of the more bulky layers down thinner, so they would fit under my sewing machine foot.
Perfectly matching buttons from Calico and Ivy.
Technical notes; all seams flat felled as per the pattern.
To avoid bulk in the waistband, the inside edge was cut along the selvedge, and this is not folded inside the waistband but left out inside the skirt and topstitched down from the right side, stitching in-the-ditch. I also cut the overlay against the selvedge and left the selvedge edge out along the edge of the turned in facing. Same reason as the waistband treatment; to reduce the bulk of having a raw edge turned under.
Also HongKong bounds edges for an inside side edge and the hem, again to avoid as much unnecessary bulk as possible. For this, I used a beige/light honey coloured poplin voile to make bias binding. I bought about 2m of this a few years ago and have almost used all of it in HongKong binding for various things… need to get some more, asap!
Happiness scale; 9/10 at having another of these skirts, since the pattern is a sentimental favourite of all time for me. It lost a point due to my struggles with the fabric, but if I had to do it all over again I would probably still want the skirt in this same fabric. Feels great on, and like skirt and pattern were meant for each other, like star crossed lovers or something like that, go figure. Next time I will choose something with a little less bulk though.
Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1693, slubby mustard wool blend
Tshirt; self-drafted, white/grey stripe cotton jersey, details here
Shoes; Diavolina, from Zomp shoes
Lovely. I like the match of the stripes with the mustard too. I love Issey Miyake designs even though I can't wear a lot of them. I have this from 1986 too although from memory, my friend made it and gave it to me but I didn't make it in the end.
Perfectly classic – Love Miyake's designs.
I love Japanese style, having made several Japanese style garments myself. This skirt is so stylish and a great design, it looks expensive and unique. Brilliant!
Gorgeous skirt and amazing details.
You look so elegant in it, the skirt hangs beautifully, the time spent with the hammer was so worthwhile and I love the idea of revisiting a design. How do you find it without a lining?
Thank you Kerry! I don't often line spring/summer skirts actually, since I don't plan to be wearing tights with it; so I think it'll be fine. The loose weave means it will still let a breeze through as our weather warms up too, yay!
I absolutely love this skirt on you, wish I was 6" taller I'd be copying. The fabric is perfect as well as the colour, a real winner.
Another fabulous style on you! Lovely fabric too, very elegant.
thank you so much Dilliander! yes, his designs are wonderful, quite timeless and ageless I think 🙂
I love that skirt! In that fabric it doesn't look at all 1980's, in fact, very current. I am loving this colour at the moment but sadly it is one I struggle to wear.
This is gorgeous, I love the design and the shape really suits you. It actually looks really contemporary despite being a 'vintage' pattern!
Very beautiful! I'm so pleased that you could finish the skirt after struggling with the bulk. I see everything is smooth on the skirt in the end and it really suits you perfectly.
I hadn't previously thought of the hammer as a necessary tool in my sewing armory, but it makes sense. Beautiful work.
thanks Bronwyn! I don't use it very often but it comes in handy every now and then. 🙂
Well the finished result doesn't look bulky at all! Great job, and how nice to see a design from (our) schooldays look so current today!
Beautiful, fabric and pattern work wonderfully together, even if it did need beating into submission!
loving it!
thank you Hami! 🙂
It's very elegant! I like this skirt even more because of your story, which brings more charm and meaning to this garment.
Love the belt detail. Your 21 year old self was so avante gard!
Do you have images of the first pieces you made from this divine pattern?!
I LOVE how it turned out, and with the simple striped T, the skirt is the star of the show. Great job!
Kelley~
Letters Unfolded
Thank you Kelley! if I ever do find pictures of my first go, I will definitely put them here! I was pretty proud of that ensemble 🙂
The hammer is a tip i will remember! This looks so stylish, and is a great colour on you.
I wouldn't have chosen that from the pattern illustration but it is gorgeous. Enjoy it, and I hope you make more happy memories wearing it.
Love it! Decades ago, my late mother made the complete ensemble from this pattern for me when I was in Junior high! Can you imagine that? Everyone else wearing early eighties outfits and me sauntering down the hall in that? It was made very similar to the pattern cover, in a pale tan color with a barkcloth-like texture. I still have it even though I outgrew it more than 20 years ago, I'm definitely not 115 lbs anymore! Thanks for reminding me!
wow, that's awesome! You would have been the coolest kid in school! Do you have any pictures?
Looks lovely on you Carolyn……your height and slender figure just lend itself to looking good in this style.
thank you so much Rianna! 🙂
What a beauty! I really love the color! And the cut! And both go so well together! I'm glad you didn't give up on this project 🙂
You are so elegant in this skirt, it has a modern touch though being a vintage pattern. Such a lovely story of the pattern. The skirt is beautifully made, as always! 🙂
Perfection! I have a soft spot for anything Vogue Designer 80's….but, especially Perry Ellis. Like Perry, Issey did voluminous brilliantly. As much as I love them, I'm quite short and have to be careful about the silhouette on me. You, on the other hand, look absolutely stunning! Well done!
What a neat design! Looks great in this fabric, even if it was a bit of a hassle.
Right on trend for now, very inspiring. Can I ask how tall you are? There may be a chance I can pull this off too!
thank you, Martha! I believe that everyone would look good in Issey Miyake! his designs are sort of arty, but have stood the test of time. I am 5'8"
It's beautiful Carolyn, and gotta love anything where you get to use a hammer!
I would love to see one of those old photos of your first version!! This one is beautiful.
thanks Liza Jane! if I ever find any of those photos I'll be sure to share!
So elegant!
its gorgeous. love the description of the original outfit…………..remember those court shoes so well and mine ended up being little steel point heels as the plastic bit would wear off
That's a beautiful pattern and the colour works really well. Not how I remember looking in 1986! *shudders*
Gorgeous! His designs are so timeless due to their uniqueness and this one is wonderful on you. Love it!
Such a stunning skirt. It suits you so perfectly.
Absolutely gorgeous! I'd have not suspected it was from the 80s, it looks so modern.
What a beautiful skirt! I love that it's timeless and classic but also has those all-important unusual details.
Yes, I have a hammer too. I thought it was a code word for some presser foot or some sewing thingy. No, a real hammer! This skirt is beautiful. I especially love that hip-slung button.
What a lovely outfit Carolyn, so elegant, and beautifully made. You look pretty good in all the things you make.
Oh I love this! I bought this pattern in the 80s and still have it! Hope you don't mind if I revisit it.
Beautiful!! And all the better that it's a beloved pattern. That wrap is such a nice detail!
What a beautiful skirt! It's really unusual design – the sort of thing I'm pushing myself towards making. You don't see many like this off the peg in the shops. I'm now furiously trying to hunt the pattern down so I can try it out for myself. Great make 🙂 x
I'm always amazed how just a few changes can take a pattern from dated to amazing. Fantastic looking skirt and it looks great on you.
What a cool skirt! I love the way it wraps around and buttons up. I love making things with those quirky little design differences. So much fun to wear and so unique too!
Oh! I wish I had been as clever as you to hang onto the old patterns. They are so classically styled. Just beautiful.
Congratulations on the fabric wrangling – the skirt looks absolutely beautiful. It's a brilliant, comfortable pattern – I made a couple in the old days in medium weight cottons. My favourite was above knee length and worked just as well as the longer version.
Another great pattern for you! I love the fabric which doesn't look very bulky in the finished skirt. A vintage pattern that looks modern – fabulous 🙂