As sneaky-peeked previously; my shearling jacket, and ma
n, I’m so happy with it!! It turned out just exactly how I hoped, and was the most wonderfully cuddliest, comfiest thing to have with me in our recent visit to Japan; I loved bundling up in it each day in Tokyo and used it as a snuggly rug while on the plane… without a doubt the warmest coat I’ve ever made formyself, evah. Like wrapping myself in a fluffy blanket, and I was perfectly snug enough even in the subzero temperatures of Hokkaido.
Obviously, and with my usual attention to weather appropriate sewing ahem, I chose to get started on this super fluffy thing during the most heinously hot heat wave… 42C anyone? phew, try-ons were hideous. Seriously I question my sanity sometimes. Well, lots of times actually 😉 Anyway it was all worth it in the end, since I’m quite chuffed with how it turned out.
What is it about making jackets that is so enormously satisfying and fulfilling? I don’t know exactly why, but I always find jackets, and dresses too, to a slightly lesser extent; to be the projects that give me the biggest of happy warm fuzzy buzzes… 🙂
wrt this one; well I’ve wanted to make a shearling jacket for oh, about ten years now. Ever since the first time I clapped eyes upon one belonging to our friend S; a colleague of my husband’s who is always super suave and cool and has a slightly alternative, very hip and happening taste in clothing. He owns a beautifully thick, oversized shearling jacket that he’s had for years and years and trots it out every winter once or twice. Every single time I see it I’m struck all over again by how awesome it is and have harboured a secret desire for one of my own…
I bought the faux shearling from Spotlight and the burnished, dull metal buttons from Fabulous Fabrics. The pattern is loosely based upon McCalls 5276, a pattern I’ve had for years but only muslined once and not got any further… oops! I pretty much chose the pattern just for the collar alone, since I wanted that big oversized 70’s lapel collar on my jacket, but not much else.
My alterations included;
Body and sleeves slimmed down and lengthened somewhat.
Welt pockets added as described here,
Belt and belt loops added.
I also fine-tuned the front edge and collar to have it so I could happily wear it in a variety of ways… a) open, cardigan style b) buttoned up halfway with the lapels flared, c) buttoned up to the neck with the collar laid down in a peter pan style, and finally d) with the collar turned up and buttoned up right to the very top in a funnel-neck style. Also, having the belt tightened or hanging loose adds to the wearing options too.
Because I was using a shearling obviously I left off all facings and all edges are left raw. When working out how to seam the pieces together, I checked out a pattern for a shearling jacket from one of my Burda magazines… which mentioned overlapping some edges to be joined and top-stitching the overlaps to minimise bulk. So; I overlapped the shoulder seams in this way, and also the collar-to-neckline seam. The other seams; namely the sleeve, side and armscye seams are sewn right sides together in the conventional way.
Even though I used the McCalls collar, I still cut it a bit bigger on the edges – just in case!!- never forget the golden rule of sewing… you can always cut away but you can’t add it back… EVER!!! And then trimmed it here and there to allow it to sit how I wanted it to look, to fit how I was imagining my collar. I’m particularly pleased with how the collar looks when buttoned up to the neck like this..
I made the sleeves extra long, so I could turn them up and have a woolly “cuff” on the sleeve ends, and also made wrist strips. These are sewn to the sleeve, then wrapped around and buttoned to themselves. The seam allowance of the cuffs are topstitched down for a neat look when they are turned back, and then I stitched-in-the-ditch of the sleeve seam down to the sleeve so the cuffs stay folded up permanently.
Welt pockets: my tutorial for how to do the welt pockets is here
Buttonholes: I’ve written a separate post detailing how I did the buttonholes here, so as not to clog up this post more than it is already! aaaaaagh! picture overload!!
In summary; I thoroughly enjoyed having and wearing my cosy new jacket in the subzero temperatures of Japan, and now we’re back home…. and it’s 35C… lol! so it’s off to the back of the wardrobe with this fluffy hulk of a thing. See you again next winter, you snuggly bundle of cosiness!
Details:
Jacket; my own design based loosely upon McCalls 5276, faux shearling
Top; the twist top from Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi, in ivory ponte, and in charcoal ponte
Jeans; Burda 7863 modified to be flares, in ivory cotton denim, and made as regular bootcut in black cotton corduroy
Gloves; hand knit by me in 4ply charcoal merino, details here
Socks; hand knit by me in Noro 4ply, details here
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes
This is just gorgeous and from Spotlight, now I am in serious envy and wondering if I should be silly enough to make one up for my trip to Canada. Thankfully typing this has made me come to my senses.
This jacket is all sorts of fabulous. I want one too!
Ooh, it is so fabulous! I really love the collar – your tweaking was well worth it – and the details at the cuffs. So lovely!
Well, its official… we all want one! You make such inspiring garments and this one is absolutely gorgeous in every way.
aw, thank you so much DIlliander!
Wonderful jacket. I agree, making jackets and coats is such fun, all those little details and so on. So – does this mean you have to go to Japan every year?!
I love all the raw edges, stunning.
Fabulous coat – and just love it worn with winter whites.
This is the perfect coat for such low temperatures! So cozy and stylish. Your seams at the collar and shoulders are interesting, for the pockets and button holes you have chosen the optimal solution and I love particularly how you executed the various options for collar and button placement. So many styling possibilities! AND, you are looking fabulous in your snuggly coat! 🙂
It looks amazing, so classy and so snuggly at the same time! Dang it, that’s another thing to add to the huge list of things I want to make some day!
It is so strange seeing you in snowy weather! The jacket is great and then I turned my attention to your trousers because I use that pattern for jeans and wondered why mine don’t have that lovely boot cut on the bottom until I read your mods list at the end. I am defo going to do that next time.
Happy Holidays. Jo x
Gorgeous jacket, and you look as stylish as ever – even in snow.
Hi Carolyn
Fabulous jacket!
We are going to Hokkaido next winter.have you any tips on good warm things to make/take? And did you find any fabric stores there?
thanks Sarah! I’m planning a post showing my “travel wardrobe” very soon 🙂
I didn’t go shopping for fabric in Hokkaido, but visited several fantastic shops in Tokyo; Nippori is the textile district with loads of really great stores, and I found a few elsewhere too. I’m going to do a post only fabric shopping in Tokyo soon too!
beautiful coat. You would love living (well, part-time) in cold Canada. You are right about making coats and jackets, there is a lot of “bang for the buck” – that is a saying in our outerwear classes here. It is tremendously satisfying to make something stylish and so practical at the same time.
And your work on this is just wonderful.
What a jacket! I absolutely love everything about it! The look the fit, the details and your photos! Thank you for sharing your awesomeness and it was such a pleasure to read about the making of this coat and I totally get why you are so pleased with this make! 🙂
This is so beautiful! I made a faux shearling cape, and know I can make a button closure instead of the hook that keeps getting caught. thank you so very much!
Thank you, and you are very welcome! I’m so glad you liked the button tutorial 🙂
A gorgeous jacket. Snuggly, yet smart and stylish. A great make for the winter – enjoy wearing it!
so fantastic, I love the classic shearling look and perfect for a ski holiday. and all your details such as the buttonholes and the overlapping seams. I have (slightly embarrassed to say) 2 shearling jackets, bought in Italy as I couldn’t resist, so real leather. I always feel a bit funny wearing them around but when it turns cold they are perfect. And you are so right they do double as blanket/cushions on an airplane. Also, I am so with you on the joy of jacket-making.
That’s looks warm and snuggly enough for our Canadian winters! Love it totally – the style, the material, the fit. Gorgeous! I laughed reading how trying it on in 42 degrees was a nightmare. I could relate to that too! 🙂 Congratulations…if you were so inclined you could make and sell these without a problem.
Beautiful & it looks amazing in the snow. Shame that it will be in the closet for some time before getting worn again! I’m off to Iceland in March & very tempted to sew a cosy coat, but not sure I’ll get chance.
This jacket is fantastic. Beautiful – love it!
I’ve fondled this shearling a few times in Spotlight but always resisted; I’m glad you didn’t. This is amazing and you look fabulous!
Beautiful jacket and photography. How was the skiing?
thanks BMGM! The skiing in Mt Niseko, is absolutely fantastic, with beautiful powdery snow. We stayed in Hirafu, our third time staying at the same place. It’s lovely; getting a bit busy and popular now but still quite charming, and an absolutely brilliant ski destination.., with loads of slopes and options 🙂
Functional AND beautiful!
Just awesome! Definitely get the feeling of accomplishment with such an epic project like this!
Bullseye. Wow. The winter white top and jeans make it look like Ralph Lauren. Once again I marvel at how something can look unremarkable on a dummy, sparkles on the live model. Congratulations on your wonderful trip to Japan.
By the way, I think the deep wrap across neckline and collar is the key here. You can snug it around your neck up to the ears and cinch the waist for warmth when it’s super cold…then, open to drape from your shoulders when you’re inside. Gorgeous.
thank you Sankati! Yes, I am very happy with how the collar turned out, and its versatility 🙂
Absolutely fabulous!!! Well worth all the discomfort of sewing in the heat. Such a shame you will have to put it away and wait for winter before wearing it again.
Your gorgeous jacket is ‘wow’ on so many points! True love! Found it interesting how you began with the pattern for the collar and modified it, on so many levels, for the perfect jacket for you. 🙂
Pingback: Japan; a travel wardrobe - Handmade by Carolyn
Pingback: sheeplefeet - Handmade by Carolyn
Pingback: 2016; a retrospective - Handmade by Carolyn