I’ve made a new dress for Cassie! does’t she look swish and smart and ultra-glam? Well, I reckon so 🙂
Pattern; the Martha dress, from Tilly and the Buttons. I was recently contacted by Joanne from Tilly and the Buttons and asked if I would review the pattern, and I was like, an excuse to sew? hells yeah!! I thought the dress would look really nice on Cassie. And it does!
Fabric; a medium/heavyweight jacquard, quite lustrous and with a rich subtle sheen to it; in a weave of pewter grey/ navy blue/ mauve threads. It makes me think of moonlight reflections upon water. Although when I asked the family for naming suggestions, Cassie suggested corroded steel, and Craig suggested concrete cancer. Oh nice. Very poetic; yeah thanks, family!
Origins; well a week or so ago; I went down to my parents’ place ostensibly to help Mum to clean out a room of “stuff”. Obviously that meant that I came home with a large chunk of that stuff. To be added to my own ever-growing pile of stuff that itself needs a good going-through. *sigh* So I have a few more bins of fabric at my disposal *double sigh* More fabric! oh woe is me 😉 Anyway, this particular piece caught my eye as being a great candidate for the dress. It’s stiff enough to cope with all the shaped seaming going on in the bodice of this design, and also gives a beautiful twirly flare to that full skirt.
in full twirl mode!
I didn’t have much of it, plus it had that directional, woven-in pattern, so I cut out the skirt pieces on the grain rather than on the bias as recommended in the pattern. I think it’s absolutely fine on the grain. And even with the more economical layout, I just barely had enough fabric to cut out the pieces. I have the merest scant handful of scrappiest scraps left… I reeeeeeeally wanted the knee-length skirt rather than the mini, so I was so pleased that I could squeak those out!
Sizing; Cassie’s measurements correspond to a 2, so I cut out the 3 and custom fit to her through all those bodice seams. The bodice ended up pretty close to a 2 after all, apart from the lower back princess seams, which got taken in a good deal more, so the waist is more like a 1. The skirt pieces were tapered out along the side and princess seams to the 3 at the hemline; so the skirt is a tad more “flared out” than the pattern stipulates. Hey, the more flare the better, right?
I was a little wary of the Mandarin collar; I just knew it wouldn’t go with Cassie’s style, so left that off. My first plans for the neckline were to eventually cut away the shoulder/top edge to be a more boat neckline sort of a shape, which is a universally flattering neckline in anything, in my opinion… but during bodice fitting it was still as is, no cutting, and Cassie got to a point where she hated the highness of the neckline and pretty much threatened that she would not wear it. Aiyiyiyiyi! I promised her that she would love it by the time I had finished, but even I myself, by that time, was starting to think a high neck, even in a lovely boat line; would still not really work for this particle print …. the print was too busy? neck-to-knee it would all be a bit overwhelming? whatever the reason I could sense disaster looming on the horizon.
Anyway I had a brainwave… I suddenly thought of putting in that long front slit. I did it without consulting her, and just messaged her a picture of it while she was at work, and she immediately texted back enthusiastic approval. Phew!!! Saved!
I’d cut neckline facings from grey cotton leftovers, drew on a centrally placed line for the slit and stitched the facings on, carefully skimming around that line. I then cut the slit, under stitched all around the neckline including the slit edges, and turned the facing inside. On the outside it is stitched down by “stitching in the ditch” invisibly along the shoulder seams and also along those princess seams. Seen in the picture as a navy blue line of stitching each side of the facing there, since I couldn’t be bothered changing the navy blue in the bobbin for pale grey, hehehe.
What other mods… oh I also added inseam side pockets… well of course! I’m sorry to bang on about pockets all the time like I do; but pockets, if at all possible, are just a must-have in my opinion! I cut these from more scraps of grey cotton.
OK, so that’s that! Cassie absolutely loves it, and I do too. I even think it has Veronika Maine or Cue vibes to it; which is a very good thing. These are two of my favourite Australian clothing labels, and if I was to ever decide to buy clothes ever again I would be popping in there like a shot. Heck, sometimes still I do, just to get inspiration!
I’ve even done a “proper” pattern review, below. How long has it been since I got all official like that? ages, that’s what!
Pattern Description: the Martha dress is fitted with bust darts and gentle princess seam panels at the bodice, flowing into a bias-cut panelled skirt. It features a contemporary Mandarin collar and closes with an visible zip at the back. Choose from short sleeves or three quarter bell sleeves, with knee length or mini hemline.
Pattern Sizing; 1-8. This is a new-to-me pattern company, with new-to-me sizing, and so I like to size up for the first thing, just in case! My daughter’s measurements correspond to the size 2 so I cut out a 3 and then custom-fitted to her through the side seams and those handily situated princess seams. It ended up being whittled back down to the expected size 2.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it? in essence I think it does, although I made a few design alterations and my fabric choice is very different from the recommended so there’s that too. Actually, I think my heavier weight fabric makes the biggest difference.
Were the instructions easy to follow? very easy! The pattern envelope says it’s suitable for “Improvers” which I thought was cute! I’ve been sewing for a long long (long) time, but I’m sure I still have room for improvement 😉
What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern? I think the pattern is absolutely fine… though I did make several modifications to fit personal taste. I particularly like the swingy, flared gored skirt, it sits out beautifully in the stiffer full-bodied fabric and twirls gorgeously. Not that Cassie does a heap of twirling! but still 🙂 I wasn’t so sure about the Mandarin collar, and neither was Cassie so I finagled something else instead, but that’s purely a matter of taste and not a fault of the pattern. I can see the mandarin collar is perfectly well-drafted and I would consider using it in a different design, like, say, with a sheath dress.
Fabric used; a medium/heavyweight, semi-glossy jacquard that has some body but is still reasonably flow-y The pattern recommends lightweight fabrics like crepe de chine and lawn, but I really think all those fitting seams in the bodice and the 6-gored skirt could really benefit from a thicker weightier fabric
Pattern alterations of any design changes you made; I left off the sleeves completely; instead I scooped out the armscye by a bit and finished the edges with grey cotton bias-binding, under-stitched, turned inside and hand-stitched invisibly in place.
My fabric has a directional, woven-in design; so to save the visual integrity of that, I cut out the skirt pieces on the grain rather than on the bias as recommended in the pattern. I think this is a perfectly doable option for this design. Plus, you will save fabric!
I also left off the mandarin collar…the neckline I cut a little lower both front and back and finished with a facing, cut from the same grey cotton. The centre front of the neckline has a long, faced slit.
I also added in-seam side pockets.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably will sew it again one day, using some of the other sleeve/length variations. It’s a nice, simple and classic design, which with the right fabric could be put to use as anything from a work-dress suitable for the office to a party dress.
Conclusion: A successful outcome! After some tense earlier moments during the fitting before I’d sewn in the bodice slit yet and she declared that she wasn’t going to wear it, my daughter was thrilled with it in the end and is planning to wear it to work as well as to dressier, evening-out events! An honour, if not a relief for the maker (me) indeed 🙂
Disclaimer; this pattern was given to me by Tilly and the Buttons for my honest review. All opinions are most definitely my own. There are no affiliate links on my blog and never will be; I am in it because I love sewing 🙂
This is lovely, and yes very Cue. I’m afraid I think I like it because of the neckline changes from the original design. I think the original neckline looks a bit high and constricting with those close princess seams. Your alterations are great. And nice score from your mums place!
I agree with fabrictragic. The neckline & fabric choice make the dress – it looks fabulous. You should have been employed to do the styling for the pattern!
I absolutely love the fabric and the finished dress. I didn’t like the collar on the original pattern- it looked like it would get very bulky where the seams meet. I wish they had reached out to someone with similar sewing skills to yours, when they were making their samples. Cassie is very lucky to have you!
aw, thank you Chris. I think I’m the lucky one, to have Cassie!
What a fresh look! Isn’t it amazing to take a piece of fabric given to you from someone else’s stash and create something you love this much? I think the fact that you were able to make the changes that you made is a testament to the versatility of this pattern. It would make a nice staple.
I agree that your changes made the dress! Such a pretty fabric from your mother’s stash! Isn’t it good to shift fabrics fom one stash to another to finally become such a lovely dress. Cassie looks stunning.
It’s beautifully done Carolyn, like all your work, and Cassie looks fantastic in it. I can’t help feeling though, that with the modifications you have made an entirely different dress!
thank you Philippa!
I just adore the neckline you created! So modern and fresh. Great fabric choice too. Love it!
I was surprised when you stated that you used the Martha dress from TATB! I wasn’t impressed with it when it came out but the changes you made made the pattern look way better! Your creativity is amazing! The dress looks absolutely gorgeous!
What a great take on this pattern! I really like that neckline alteration. If I were to make the Martha, I’d probably go with that, too (now that you’ve given me the idea ;-)). The neckline on the Martha is very high — a bit too high for me. The slit makes it a bit more, um, breathable, but it’s still modest and minimalist.
Oh, and the fabric’s so cool. Lucky you!
Oh woe is you, more fabric! I had to laugh at that!
Love this dress and the changes you made. How lucky Cassie is to get a custom fitted dress!
That is a a beautiful but very wearable dress. The Martha pattern hasn’t done it for me – strange long sleeves and mandarin collar – I am just too darn short for all that detail. Jo x
http://frame.bloglovin.com/?post=4836337221&blog=11256395
Just saw these sandal thingy’s with a tutorial and thought of you. Jo x
thank you for the link Jo! I had a look and yes, quite interesting… I’m a bit amazed at someone buying a brand new pair of shoes just to pull them apart to make different ones! and also; I wondered about those bulky knots underneath the thongs, that would not be comfortable; and thirdly; how did they protect the fabric underneath from wear and tear on the road? One thing I’ve learnt about making my own is that shoes have to be extremely TOUGH to stand up to the knocks we deal out to them!
See, you are in shoemaker mode and I just saw pretty sandals!!! x
What a lovely dress! I really hate a high neckline too – makes me feel choked. Your solution works so well with the style of the dress so great save!
Great job on the neckline. To be honest the high neckline kept me from wanting to make this pattern. I’m still not into it. But if your neckline version was included I would definitely think about it. The pattern you created I think works great for bold prints and special fabrics like the one you chose for Cassie. It is beautiful by the way! And the dress fits Cassie perfectly! I Think you’ve done a great job, again!
Caroline I always love your posts! This one was a joy to read. I love that you used a heavier fabric than what was recommended in the pattern – it does give the skirt part more solidity while carrying a swing at the same time. Looks just beautiful! I’m sure Cassie will get loads of wear out of it.
thank you Kathleen! She’s worn it a couple of times already, so it’s being appreciated, at least! I really do think the thicker fabric works really well for this style 🙂
So pretty Carolyn. That fabric is gorgeous!
Gorgeous dress and it looks perfect on Cassie.
Lovely, Carolyn. And I think the fabric is really interesting! Cassie does look so pretty, a real knockout.
Waw, it looks so perfect! I would definitely buy this in store. So smart of you to start with a size 3 and downsize based on her measurements, the fit is perfect and probably way better than it would have been if you had just taken the original pattern pieces!
that fabric is gorgeous, love the shape and the neckline – its so perfect. great find on the fabric and great cut
Absolutely stunning dress! It looks perfect on Cassie, so beautiful and flattering. You made all the right mods to the pattern, what a great use of your mom’s stash!
Beautiful dress! It suits your daughter beautifully. I love the dress details, especially the front slit 🙂
Looks beautiful. I think the slit neckline goes better with the full skirt than the mandarin collar does.
so nice dress for a very nice girl ! even if ne neck line is not perfect . It’s le beauty of the home made !
thank you Liochka! 🙂
Cassie looks lovely in this dress and I love the restyling you did! Interesting approach cutting a size bigger and taking it in to fit, how ho you normally manage the lower neckline & armholes? I am guessing you get into the seam allowances. Anyway it works, you got a beautiful fit there! … I struggled a bit with that bodice.
ps now I totally need to put pockets on mine too 🙂
Thanks Sasha! I didn’t worry about the slightly lower neckline and armholes since I was leaving off the collar and sleeves. And also, I ended up scooping a little extra from out of these areas as well, anyway; because they were too high and tight for Cassie’s tastes as they were! Have you made one too? I’m looking forward to seeing it! 🙂
I had to click over to the pattern link back and forth to believe I was seeing the same dress?! The sleevelessness and slit…. well, of course the twirliness, can’t leave that out….. make this dress a super dress and Cassie looks beautiful as always. Always interested to hear how you customize a pattern to fit the wearer and the wearer’s personality. 🙂
I’m with Lisa, I’d never have guessed this was made from the pictured pattern. You kicked it up two gears! Your choices worked really well. This is a great example of how a grittier color/print can be enough to transform the mood of a pattern, from girly-tea-party-vibe into urban sophistication.
You’ve made some terrific flirty, clever, on-trend clothes for Cassie before; now this grey knee length dress will come in handy when grown-up credibility is required. Youthful, but in a dignified and creative way. What fun it must be to suit up this young woman for her exciting young adult life.
thanks Sankati! and yes it is fun making clothes for her! I really enjoy it 🙂 We like lots of the same things, but she has opinions and I will usually consult with her on a thing, especially if it’s a bit out-there. She’s worn this several times already, which really makes me happy!
Love all the mods you’ve made to this pattern. Cassie’s dress is quite ‘Cue’.
Glory be, another stunner! I agree, I can definitely see this dress in Veronika Maine.
I so agree with all the previous posts. When I received the detail of the Martha dress it just didn’t do anything for me. Choked collar…..sleeves….BUT I cannot believe this is the same dress. It is so gorgeous. Having thought I would never make this dress, having seen your beautiful interpretation, I cannot wait to get the fabric to make it. As with a previous poster, I think Tilly should employ your fabulous takes on her patterns!!! My slight concern is that I won’t be able to adapt the pattern as cleverly as you have so as to achieve the same fabulous result!! Cannot praise you enough for your gorgeous interpretation!
Gorgeous dress and I can’t imagine finding such a beautiful piece of cloth amongst my Mother’s things.
So beautiful, I love the original pattern but your adaptations are just lovely.
I think adding pockets is the best thing about making your own dresses and skirts, I miss them so much in store made stuff, i’ve even undone a seam and added a pocket or two in the past.
Such a pretty dress. I love the feminine style with the quite masculine looking fabric. Concrete and steel were good descriptions.
Really beautiful!
Cassie is looking fabulous! You chose a very cool fabric for her!