Och aye! I’ve made this big, swirly tartan dress, and I absolutely LOVE it! I know it
‘s kinda crazy and huge-skirted and possibly a bit over the top, but you know what? it’s also extremely comfortable and cosy, and so swirly and swishy. The instant I finished it and put it on I immediately felt simultaneously relaxed, like I had put on a warm comfy dressing gown or something; but also a bit chic as well. The big feminine skirt with a nipped-in waist does that, but I really like how the volume below is balanced out by the mannish style shirt top with cargo pockets and flaps, and a notched collar.
Hehe, actually while I was making it I did worry a little bit that it was going to look exactly like a dressing gown! but once I put it on I was instead happily reminded of 80’s Ralph Lauren, and even Spandau Ballet. Remember To Cut a Long Story Short? big big fan here. HUGE fan. I still know all the words off by heart; and that film clip transports me right back into breathless, happy teenagehood all over again, and wearing this dress totally reminds me of that clip and that joyful time in my life; the over-the-top, big, blowsy, romantic 80’s era. So I”m very happy. And, can I say? there’s something about a big wide dramatic skirt that really brings out the poses in a person. Not to mention twirling… put a big skirt on a girl and just watch; you just can’t help it but break out into a coupla twirls.
#awkward!! Yes, well; obviously most of us don’t actually twirl very often. Twirling is something of a fashion blogger contrivance… although if I do want to get in a bit of highland flinging I am all set. 😉
More realistically, it still looks pretty awesome when you’re striding briskly along the street too, and this? I do a LOT.
When making this I had an image in my head of an actual dress like this from an 80’s or maybe 90’s editorial, I swear it was a Ralph Lauren… so of course I wasted many hours searching and searching and searching to link to it, and do you think I can find a picture anywhere of that maybe-Ralph Lauren dress??? NO. The closest thing I could find is this maxi-dress, which isn’t it.
Anyway: Fabric; soft, cotton flannelette, tartan shirting from Spotlight. The same stuff I used to line my Tosti jacket, in a different colourway. One side is slightly fluffy, the other side is smooth and flat. I put the fluffy side inside. This is the opposite of how I used it for my Tosti jacket, which has the fluffy side out! Or… since it’s the lining, is the fluffy side therefore in? hmmm, that’s a puzzle! Navy blue buttons from Fabulous Fabrics.
Pattern: Mum had given me some of her old patterns, including this great Vogue 1147 shirtdress with multiple variations, from 1993. I thought it perfect for that vision of the big skirted, maybe-Ralph Lauren, maybe-not dress in my head. It’s not in my size, but the three nested sizes made it fairly easy to downsize a bit. I made view B, at far left.
The skirt pieces, bodice pockets and flaps are all cut on the bias; bodice and sleeves on the grain. As much as possible, I matched the tartan. #madpatternmatcher This was easy in the bodice and sleeves, and the pockets which please note, are exact mirror images… however! That skirt.…! I love how the centre seams in the skirt have a nice, fairly even row of white diamonds and am fairly happy with how the lines join up at the side seams… this took some careful pinning and only a wee bit of fudging… 😉 Those side edges did not have the same profiles and combine that with an asymmetric tartan…! *hair-pulling stuff* Anyway, the matching turned out pretty good, spot on where it counts, and so is reasonably satisfying 🙂
I cut the sleeves long, then stitched an ultra-wide wide hem. This is then turned up once in a wide cuff, and secured with invisible hand stitching 1cm inside the fold. I did it this way because the underside of the fabric is different from the right side, quite fluffy! and I wanted the smooth side to be on the outside of the turned-up cuffs.
Because the skirt is on the bias, I let it hang up for a week to let the bias drop a bit, and it did! by quite a lot in some places. The hem is hand stitched.
I also made a sort of belt… this helps to pull the waist in. I only made this actually because of my year of totally handmade, meaning I can’t grab one of my nice leather ready-to-wear belts, and I really think the design NEEDS a belt. But now I’ve made it I LOVE how it blends invisibly into the dress so perfectly! It’s basically just an interfaced waistband, with an inside button and two buttonholes. One buttonhole is for the start of the evening, before dinner. The outer one is for when you decide you do want to have dessert after all. Comfort dressing, at its finest!
Details:
Dress; Vogue 1147 from 1993, tartan flannelette shirting
Tights; my own pattern black stretch, details here and my tutorial for making your own custom fit tights pattern is here
Shoes; made by me, details here
I was actually excited when the weather started cooling down here and I got to wear my long plaid circle skirt again! So much fun! (I am never happy about it getting cold, FYI) this reminds me of an 80s evening-dress type pattern I have, the envelope pic is made up in red plaid and it’s glorious. my fabric store is getting great plaids in this fall…
I was thrilled when I saw your dress and I immediately though of a Pinterest image I have, possibly the Ralph Lauren dress ? https://fr.pinterest.com/pin/546061523545367630/
I hope it works, I don’t know very well how to link to it.
I can relate to this twirling thing. In the early 90s I took some flamenco lessons and “la vuelta” was my favorite part, in this me made skirt. I still have it…
And now, I’m going to read the second part of your post 😀
thank you Sizun! I’ve seen that dress on Pinterest too, it’s lovely but not The One. There’s no mistaking those huge 80’s skirts! so distinctive 🙂
in love with this dress! i was dreaming of dress looking exactly like this one! beautiful! gotta sew myself something similar
thats fantastic, I adore plaid…… your 80s references reminded me of a pair of plaid trousers I made ….. from plaid taffeta…… (I did not know what ‘suitable’ fabric meant). Fantastic movement in it. love it!
I love it and it must be so cozy to wear with the fuzzy side against your body! The two button holes on your belt is genius. ✨
Oh wow!! That is fantastic!!! Perfect for Autumn and winter with the toasty side against your skin! Love it xx
My goodness woman… you have excellent vision. I simply adore this dress on you & I hope you swish up a storm everytime you wear it.
I’d be a tart for tartan if it meant owning a dress like that! I love the Vivienne Westwood vibes.
What a dress! I love it!!
What a a gorgeous dress! That skirt is perfection.
Such a great dress – I can see you doing the highland fling in it!
Fantastic! You are making me crave swirly!
That is a wonderful dress. I can imagine it on the cover of a holiday edition of a magazine! You have a great design eye to think of taking that pattern and marrying it with that red plaid fabric which you used inside out!!! You did a great job of lining up the plaids in all of the important places, particularly for an asymmetrical plaid.
thank you so much Patrice! If we get a cool Christmas I am definitely planning to wear it! but where I live that’s very unlikely 😉
I know I had this pattern – I made the straight version from the centre. Your tartan swirly dress looks so brilliant I am probably going to turn the house inside out to try to find this again. Enjoy your dress. Fling and swirl at every opportunity
You could just replace your head with mine. This is so me perfect. Plaid is my favorite color!! Really. Have loved shirtwaists since forever. And how could anyone not twirl in this? And I’m glad you matched the plaids. Good job!!
This is so beautiful. I’m working on a shirt with plaid fabric and I totally didn’t match my lines. So I’m quite impressed with the way you matched yours – just beautiful work!
Lovely proportions on that. I never would have thought to use tartan fabric for that style but it really works!
You’re always so creatively inspirational Caroline! Love the belt idea and making this dress with a plaid – on the bias! – was sheer genius. The comfort, movement and bling is gorgeous!
thank you Kathleen 🙂
Beautiful work as always. Carolyn, can you give me some info on what interfacing you use for most projects? I have become unhappy lately with fusibles and am thinking of returning to old-fashioned non-fusible woven interfacings. Slightly more work, but long-term results. I would like to know what you use, because your collar and lapels are beautiful.
Bet you were thinking of Vogue 1722–I had that pattern, it’s a Ralph Lauren pattern from the mid-80s.
It wasn’t a pattern I was thinking of, it was a dress! Pretty similar in colour, tartan and style in my memory to the one I am wearing. Since I can’t find any pictures however I’m starting to wonder if I dreamt it 🙂
Stunning dress
It’s a lovely dress! Love the plaid that you used and you look fantastic in it. I think that pattern still resides in my pattern collection…now I have to look to see if I’ve gotten rid of it!
Oh, I love this red tartan dress! Please swirl a little bit in my place, too! I often haven’t got the right belt, I should remember your little belt with the before-after button holes!
Very Scottish and very jealous. I think it is fabulous I do not look great with a gathered skirt but a pleated one always looks so much more grown up and stylish. Jo x
the fabric is a little bit too much for me ! but I love the pattern af the dress !
I adore your tartan dress.
So swishy and wonderful matching! And great how it makes you so happy – that is just the best thing about sewing……. I thought with your mad shoemaking and leatherwork skillz you would have a rainbow of self made leather belts! I remember Jillian at Sew Unravelled made a wonderful single sized, single holed leather belt a year or two ago that I still covet!
Fantastic! Love it. Yes, the full skirt, the twirling – it just. can’t. be. helped. I understand very well. And the swish when you walk is absolutely regal. I also love your two-button dessert-or-no-dessert option with the belt. Heh. This will be a timeless classic for you I hope. I see the ’80s reference but it seems to go beyond that. Happy wearing!
Ooh – I can see why you love this dress – it is gorgeous! I wouldn’t have thought to combine this fabric and pattern but it is lovely and totally 80s Lauren.
Heck. Yes.
This is the perfect pattern/pattern match – big and flowy and tartan is perfection! Though I feel you need an wolfhound to follow you as you stride across some moors 😀
You look stunning in that dress. So beautiful.
Stunning. Love all the bias cuts and that cute belt. You’re absolutely right about the skirt/bodice balance. Just looks so chic! Stride on!
I can just imagine the softness against the skin. Like a big flanelette shirt, only bigger and better! No wonder you are so happy wearing it. I might need to go hunting for some flanelette 🙂
What a dress! I am a huge fan of tartan! and of flannel and I like wide skirts AND I have made a similar dress last winter. Well, similar.. it is green and it doesn’t have all those nice details and the pattern matching isn’t nearly as good and I think I now need another one! 🙂
Striking dress! I am in awe of your pattern matching. The skirt cut on the bias looks amazing.
What a lovely dress! I never expect much from those 80’s/90’s patterns but clearly I’m wrong.
And thank you for the timely reminder of tartan… I have a piece of real, Scottish wool tartan and some nice cotton flannel plaid waiting for me.
Fantastic – what an incredibly fun dress!
Oh this dress is glorious. Very editorial and very chic. And toasty warm for cooler days. Perfection
What a gloriously fun and fantastic dress! It must be such a joy to wear with style and comfort. And the two buttonholes idea is super clever! 🙂
Mmm, flannel dress. Sounds cozy. And great job on the plaid matching!
Gorgeous! Very smart with that two-button belt!
Wow your skirt is huge and the plaid looks amazing in your dress.
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Pretty classy tart! Wow is all I can say.
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