Tag Archives: Burda 07/2018 118

a Minä Perhonen dress and some new clogs

hello!  I’ve made a whole new outfit recently… it’s not so often that I can present a new, head-to-toe handmade outfit like this!  

I bought this Minä Perhonen hessian on a previous trip to Tokyo, and after a suitable period of stash marination picked out Burda dress pattern, Burda 07/2018; 118.  One I’ve used before, a true goodie based on its very tiny fabric requirements.  btw, did you know that this very Finnish name actually belongs to a Japanese label?  I didn’t; but I’d done some investigations prior to our trip and discovered this surprising fact.  Of course then I had to visit the eponymous store and spent an agonising 30-60 minutes trying to choose just one of the beautiful fabrics.  Difficult, indeed.

I settled on this cotton hessian with a multi coloured print of overlapping ovals.  I loved this combination of colours; violet, duck-egg blue, teal blue, navy blue, lemon yellow and apricot.  I thought it fitted in very nicely with my personal colour palette of true- to deep autumn.

Because of the wide weave and slightly rough texture I opted to line it, the first time I have done so for this pattern although the design is supposed to be lined.  And now I have done so I can reliably report that the lining instructions are pretty sparse, bordering on unhelpful.  They start out with one or two seams and then suddenly say something like “add lining”… ok maybe I’m exaggerating, but not by much!  I ended up stitching the bulk of it in by hand. Of course this results in a very neat and tidy finish.  I cut it it purposely to be a little generous, so I’m not concerned that those hand stitches are going to come under strain.

I cut the facings from a greige medium-weight linen from the stash.  I used a different griege lightweight cotton from stash to bind the hem raw edge before stitching it by hand.  The pale pink lining fabric was also in the stash, so my only required purchase was a new, “natural” 60cm invisible zip.  I’m loving shopping the stash as much as I can!  Gradually chipping away at it, honestly when I do get down to zero I’m going to throw a party!

I made a size larger than my usual for some reason.  Not sure why I did this now because it’s a tad too boxy.  Also, while the print is absolutely gorgeous, the hand of the fabric is both quite heavy and drape-y, a combination that I don’t really love all that much.  Definitely not going to stop me from wearing it though!

Here I am wearing it for its maiden voyage, during me-made May.

Aaaand, I made a new pair of shoes! and fortuitously they go beautifully with my new dress.  This style of shoe should look pretty familiar to anyone who regularly reads my blog, since I once again used a kit from leather needle thread.  This particular woven, three-colour style is a new one though.  I had lots of fun making these, as usual!

I have a kinda embarrassing confession though… it was in making these ones that I finally realised that I’d mistakenly been putting in the buckle upside down for some of my previous clogs, whoopsies.  They are the correctly way up here, and for my most recent black ones too.  My mustard clogs and teal clogs were upside down… fortunately it was actually pretty easy to unpick the pieces and reinsert the buckle in the right way around.  I’m such a dolt, because I’d always felt they looked a little funny… well it all makes perfect sense now and the clogs look so much better!

at left, incorrect… at right, correct!

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Christmas dress! hot choccy treats and some cute little kiddie things

I’ve made some new things…

… including a new Christmas Day dress for myself… the latest subtraction from ye good old stash.  So this new dress was made with a piece of lovely border print stuff bought in the closing days of 2019,  New York when I went there with Yoshimi… I’m pretty sure it was from Metro Textiles?

I thought I’d make a simple, very plain shift dress and turned to a rather lovely little shift dress pattern I’ve made previously, Burda 07/2018; 118, which is exactly that, but with pockets!  Win!

As usual I hadn’t really bought enough fabric and cutting out the pieces was a tight squeeze!  I had to cut out those awkwardly shaped facing pieces from a different fabric.  I used a pale latte coloured, stiff cotton for this.

Fortunately I also had a zip of the appropriate length in my stash too, although it’s a less than ideal bright white instead of ivory; it’s a little more noticeable that in appears in this picture.

This picture is really just to show the selvedge being used for the centre back seam; I often do this if the selvedge is lying nice and flat, and it does save that little bit extra if fabric is short.

If I’m totally honest with myself I’m not 100% happy with how the print matched up along this back seam but again, I didn’t have enough fabric to do anything about this so c’est la vie.

wearing it here with my crocheted hat…

This really is such a lovely print! and I’m absolutely thrilled it has now become a cute little summer dress that I felt comfortable and very happy in, all day long.  I didn’t get any photos from Christmas Day because I was just rushed off my feet all day, but I wore it again today and took these pics. 🙂

Next up! for Christmas gifts, something I always like to do is to make some little edible treat for the whole family.  This year I thought I’d make hot chocolate bombs…  however, a lot of the recipes I found online were in the form of perfectly spherical, beautifully shiny chocolate shells that you fill with cocoa powder and maybe sugar and/or marshmallows… well such chocolatey artistry was completely beyond my skills!  I decided instead to just make hot chocolate “bricks” 😉

These little morsels might not be things of beauty but they do comprise everything that one needs for a mug of yummy hot chocolate.  My recipe:

Hot Chocolate Bricks

each brick contains:

  • 45g dark cooking chocolate
  • 1 heaped tsp cocoa powder
  • ¼ tsp sugar
  • 4 mini marshmallows

I used double the above mixture, which was an easy quantity to handle, to make two at a time.  Simply melt the chocolate in the microwave then quickly and thoroughly stir through the cocoa powder and sugar.  The mixture should be sticking together into a self-contained blob, picking up all the mixture off the sides of the bowl as you mix and leaving almost no residue.  If it wasn’t, I would add a little more cocoa powder until it did stick together.  Divide between two mini patty pans and gently push the marshmallows on top… this means people can remove them before melting the brick and pop them on top of their hot chocolate just before serving.

Each brick is designed to go in 100-150mL milk, depending on how strong you like it.  If you like it super rich then you can substitute a little cream for a portion of milk!  because they’re quite rock solid little things they actually need a LOT of stirring and occasional re-heating to mix in thoroughly enough.  But they are delicious!  I used one of the earlier, not-so-pretty ones to check out that they worked ok…

btw I also made a little instruction slip to put in with each pack, explaining the how-to stuff.  Actually, I can’t believe I didn’t take a picture of the final packages, obviously I got a bit stressed for time towards the end there!(Later edit: Mum took a picture of hers for me…  :). )

However, to describe; throughout the year I’d saved up those little plastic punnets mini tomatoes are sold in… I peeled off the labels and managed to squeeze 7 chocolate bricks in each punnet.  I popped the instructions in as well and finished off with tying up the punnets with coloured ribbons.

Finally, and possibly my very last makes for the year? there are just three days to go, so maybe!  I made three little garments, for my three little grandsons.  Two raglan sleeve T-shirts in different sizes and a little onesie for the newest and littlest, all self-drafted.  Each using a mix of white and vaguely Christmassy red plaid cotton jersey, although I didn’t actually make them for Christmas!  I bought the red plaid cotton jersey from (I think?) the Fabric Store in Melbourne during a past trip over there… it’s quite thin and was actually not much fun to sew with.   Doing the twin needle hems on the T-shirt sleeves was a hideous experience, each one unpicked and re-done multiple times each.  I don’t really know what the issue was but it only occurred on this particular fabric, not the white cotton body hems.

The white jersey was from old stash.  I think they turned out pretty cute, and if I get a picture of the little guys wearing their new things I will upload it here!

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Cassie’s gum leaves

I’m so happy with this new dress!  The fabric is actually very special… Cassie gave it to me last year, the print is one of a suite of designs she created for her wedding stationery and other wedding paraphernalia…  she has the designs up in her Spoonflower shop, and she gave some fabric of a different design to Mum (her Granny, obviously)

My piece is cotton denim; Cassie thought I could make a skirt from it, and yes I could have done that, but the piece was big enough that there would have been lots of leftovers.  So I wondered if I might be able to get a little dress out of it.  And I did!  Just!

It always feels like such a hugely satisfying achievement when I lay the pattern pieces down on a piece of fabric and they only just barely fit, so you have basically no leftovers at all.  Honestly, one of THE MOST satisfying things about making a thing, when you can manage it!

of course I had to keep this little piece of the selvedge and stitch it inside!!

This pattern is Burda style, 07/2018; 118; one I’ve made before here.  This is another great little pattern from Burda, they have long dry spells with boring patterns, but you get such a lot of good ones in there too so I always find it worth perusing the magazine when I see it.  Both of my versions of the dress do not have a lining.

I even made a little video of the making of it, just for fun; for myYouTube channel… the link is here if you’d like to watch it  🙂

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10PmRka94GU

 

 

We even had a beautiful day of 25C last week, so I got to wear it for …   this picture is seated for “fashion-on-the-sofa Friday”

This is the 8th thing in my “use 12” challenge…  I’m really so please with how it’s all coming together  🙂

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crimson rosellas

{Sooo, what’s going on?  It’s actually been well over a month since I made this dress, took these pictures and half wrote this whole post too so maybe I should say something about my absence.  Later.

Meanwhile, over to 6-weeks-ago me …}

This fabric is so cute!  I absolutely love it! well I love the pattern too of course, but I’m going to start with the fabric… I bought it at Spotlight last year, it’s a Jocelyn Proust design.  Actually, Spotlight is on a roll with great Jocelyn Proust designs at the moment… there are lots of absolutely gorgeous ones and it’s nearly impossible to choose just one.  Fortunately when I got this one it was the first one I’d seen, as well as the only one in the store at the time, so I was just like WOW! I love this!  *grab*  *buy*  A coupla weeks later and there were now lots of really beautiful Jocelyn Proust designs in the store from which to choose… but I think I still would have chosen this one!

It’s cotton drill; such practical stuff, and nice to both sew and wear, and I absolutely couldn’t resist the colours … I love navy blue and raspberry pink together.  Also; crimson rosellas.  Any Aussie-specific print is going to catch my eye in the shops and I think this one is really cute.

The pattern is the cover dress of the Burda 07/2018 magazine, dress 118; I’d earmarked it as a must-make from the first flick-through of the magazine… then as soon as the crimson rosella fabric came into my life I was like bingo.  The design of the dress is quite interesting, with a sort of faux bib-front look to it, a raised faced section both front and back of the dress with set-in side panels that help form the pockets.  It’s hard to explain actually, but you can get an idea of how the front sits out over the side panels in the side view shot above.  The “sitting-out” bits have long, oddly shaped facings, that I managed to miraculously cut out from a fairly small piece of navy blue cotton drill, the final leftovers from these Issey Miyake pants from a few years ago.  I only had to piece together one little bit on both facings.  The pattern stipulates a lining, which I decided to leave off because I want to wear mine in the heat of summer… so I needed a way to finish off the armhole edges.  I drafted some facings by just splicing the side pieces together, tracing the raw edge, and cutting the subsequent facings to be the same width as the other facings, for a matching look inside.  All edges inside are finished on the overlocker, with matching bone-coloured thread, mostly because I couldn’t be bothered changing the overlocking thread to navy from the bone I used for the fabric itself! but in the end I really like the look of contrasting colour here.

The dress is drafted as a petite design, so I checked the burda size charts to see what changes I might need to make.  I decided to add in 2cm length to the bodice area of the dress on all pieces, did a quick pattern mockup and this was just the right amount, I think.  The pockets would have just been sitting that little bit too high on me, otherwise.  I love the pocket design on this dress too, but if I made it again I would make them just little bit deeper, maybe 2cm or so.  They are ok the way they are, but you know.  When it comes to pockets, size does matter!

The pocket linings are also cut from the same navy blue cotton drill.

I love the design; it is just slightly on the boxy side which I like for a summer dress.  You’re supposed to put in a whacking long invisible zip in the centre back seam, which I did, very obediently.  And then discovered, as you do; that I can actually slip the dress on over my head without having to undo the zip.  Of course!

Oh, and I ended up re-hemming the dress to be about an inch shorter.  That doesn’t sound very much, but I think it looks a lot better, even that small amount made a difference! From just verging on slightly frumpy to Jackie O chic in just an inch!

This is the fifth thing made  from my #makenine  that is really twelve, list of 12 designs and fabrics that I promised myself at the end of last year.  Hmmm, what should I make next?!

Details:

Dress; Burda 07/2018;118, cotton drill
White oxford shoes, made by me, details here
Black tights; made by me, details here
Black boots; made by me, details here

So… what’s been happening, indeed… well LOTS in the world obviously.  From the perspective of our family here, we lost an important, elderly family member at the beginning of June, and it’s been a very emotional and rather difficult time for us, separately and on top of everything else.  By “everything else” I mean the continuing and not inconsiderable anxieties of Covid-19, and the very important “black lives matter” movement – for which I am obviously pro – and just some other family stuff, so mmm.  It’s been a lot.  I don’t want to go on and on about it because this is my just-for-fun sewing blog and not a “let’s offload all one’s emotional baggage upon an innocent world” blog, and I prefer to dwell on the positive.

With regard to the BLM movement, so I’ve been buying fabric! supporting indigenous makers.  I’m just going to copy and paste here what I already wrote in instagram…

I’ve been thinking about the best way to show my support for blacklivesmatter and as a fervent sewing peep I think using more indigenous textiles is a good start… I was so excited to receive my first purchase the other day… this beautiful piece of fabric, “Tjilkamala Rockhole” designed by Alice Nampitjinpa… this talented lady recently won a collaboration with Gorman clothing with another piece of beautiful artwork so I’m extra excited my first purchase should be from such an amazing artist! …
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This piece was produced by @ikuntjiartists and purchased through @flyingfoxfabrics and I’m so grateful these cooperations exist to make indigenous work accessible and available to us…
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I am humbled and inspired by my country’s rich and ancient indigenous culture that has survived here for millenia … I wish to learn how to better honour and protect the Aboriginal people, as well as acting to create a kinder and more respectful future for everyone here in this beautiful country I am so grateful to call home … I’m looking forward to researching and buying more indigenous art fabric, and, if I’m allowed a rather shallow final note, cannot wait to sew something lovely to wear from it, too! #sewing

AND

I’m so thrilled this beautiful length of art fabric has arrived! This print is “Mandem” designed by Eva Nganjmirra and printed on linen by @injalakarts a wholly Aboriginal owned and governed community art centre in the Northern Territory… and from whom I purchased this piece. .
I can’t wait to trawl through my patterns and make something hopefully worthy enough to do justice to this beautiful work.
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#sewing

ALSO…  in the meantime, I also participated in me-made May last month, as usual.  I pledged to wear 100% me-made, including my shoes and underwear, because why not? I have plenty of me-made things to wear!  I was happy to achieve this, and to also mix and match my existing wardrobe so as to not repeat anything during the month either, apart from obviously black tights and a few of my shoes.  There was only one tiny fail at the end there, where I neglected to wear me-made shoes for the final two days of the month, because we’d gone down south and I just decided oh to heck with it.

Here are my outfits for the month.  Absolutely everything made by me, except for the boots on the last two days of the month  🙂

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