Tag Archives: Burdastyle Magazine 06-2011-120

Grey stripes

I’ve made a new dress for autumn! (sneaky peeked in my Fashionary here)  More accurately, I made this about a month ago and have been awaiting a day I can actually wear it without unladylike perspiration marring the photograph. (ew)
It is a Metalicus sort of a dress.  
Oh, OK; it is pretty much an almost exact copy of one from their summer range.  (pictured at right)
Well, I saw, and I was helpless to resist.  I just had to have.  (shrug)
I used a cotton knit jersey with a charcoal and black stripe from Fabulous Fabrics, and drafted my own pattern with the help of a tank top.  The skirt is just a slightly shaped to-the-waist and then flared A-line design.  I bought 2m of 150cm width fabric, but found that 1.2m was plenty to cut out this dress shape using the layout pictured below.    

Don’t worry, the leftover 80cm has been put to good use already, undergoing a rapid transformation into a three-quarter sleeved, scoop-necked Tshirt.  This using my now go-to Tshirt pattern, the one formerly known as Burdastyle 06/2011, 120 (altered completely until beyond recognition, but still one must give credit, non?)

I edged the neckline and armhole/sleeve edges of both the dress and the Tshirt with a folded band, the type that you see on just about all Metalicus pieces,which is why I have it stuck in my head as The Metalicus Finish, lol.

Please note; the Absolute Perfection in Stripe-Matching.  I pinned the junction of each and every stripe to achieve this.  No, I am not exaggerating.

The red pen below is pointing to a bodice side seam.  Can you even see it? (said with an unseemly lack of humility)  
This is the kind of thing not noticeable to a, er, normal person (read: someone who does not sew), but is the ultimate in self-satisfaction for those of us who have ever sewn stripes together.  Stretchy jersey stripes, I might add.  (insert deep and disgracefully un-humble sigh)

The lower hem is overlocked, folded under once, and finished with a straight stitch.  I hemmed my dress exactly the right length to work perfectly over one of my favourite actual Metalicus pieces, this frill-edged white petticoat.

Details:
Dress; self-drafted, from charcoal and black striped cotton jersey
petticoat; Metalicus
Sandals; Misano, from Marie-Claire shoes

Now OK; do I feel bad about outright copying a dress like this?  I do, a bit.  You see while I like to make my own clothes nowadays, I have a lot of respect for Metalicus.  I used to buy their clothes.  And actually I will own up now that in a small transgression of my pledge I did indeed buy a few pairs of Metalicus winter tights at their New Year’s sale,  eep!  But they were such fantabulous colours!! (the colours made me do it, your Honour…) and anyhow, tights can be classed as underwear, right??
I am OK with supporting Metalicus, since it is an Australian company, with the clothing traditionally made here in Australia.  I am of course a big supporter of ethical fashion which includes buying locally made stuff wherever possible.  So I wish to see Metalicus successfully continuing on this path and not succumb to the evil lure of the profits that come with overseas manufacturing.
It was during this visit to Metalicus I noticed that a few “made in China” pieces were making an insidious and very unwelcome appearance in the range.  I did feel sad about this and wondered briefly (and probably foolishly) if my boycotting of RTW had contributed in even some minuscule part.  And copying a dress from the store, even just one, for me, is also part and parcel of taking away business from what is a legitimate Australian business.  So I did feel a bit guilty.  But if Metalicus is going to go to the dark side and send  their manufacturing overseas, taking away Australian jobs, then while I am very sad about that it does at least make it a heck of a lot easier for me to stay away from RTW.
btw I did check my tights before I bought them, and they are indeedy of the Made in Australia variety.
So I’m resting easy on that purchase.
Sort of.

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Some basics…

Nothing in this post is write-home-about exciting, but I have been laying down some handy layering basics for the cooler days that will be coming up …. sometime? …  ðŸ™‚  I’m thinking ahead, to autumn.  Planning, you know.  Being organised   hehehe 🙂

Remember this dress?  I put it on recently and my husband announced kindly but firmly that he thought it was weird.  His words sounded its death knell.  I have put this on once or twice since I made it and each time felt sorta… well yes, now you mention it, weird is exactly the right word.  I finally acknowledged that the fabric was wrong for the design, too thick and heavy and with too much body to drape gracefully enough.
My bad.  I now know that with a lot of the Pattern Magic 3 designs you do need reeeeally drape-y fabric (hmmm, I think I’ve said that before; once or twice, or ten times…) On the plus side I still like the bodice part of the dress and I had also used the leftovers of the same fabric to make a successful little T-shirt sooooo;
bit of butchery re-fashioning later…

and now we have…
I added waist bands and armbands.

and…

and…

not from the dress, but squeezed from the fabric leftovers …

T-shirt 1: I added waist bands and armbands to the bodice of the dress.
T-shirt 2: dyed with 1/4 tsp iDye in Crimson.  I’m very happy with this Tshirt, both its shape and the lovely cranberry colour.
T-shirt 3: dyed along with the “bat” Tshirt in iDye in Brown, then in the leftovers of the iDye Crimson dye-bath of T-shirt 2.  I love the tawny port colour it turned out, but there’s something “funny” about the proportions.  I wish now I had scooped the neckline a little more than I did.  Maybe this will just be an “underneath cardis and jumpers” kind of a Tshirt…
Tshirt 4: the first T-shirt made from the leftovers after the dress, using the same fabric and the same pattern as these other T-shirts, and it hasn’t been shown it here before….  It has a banded neckline and sleeve bands, and a turned up, hand-stitched hem.

I also made this using the last leftovers of bright cobalt blue fabric (same as the “bat” shirt) and it went into the iDye Crimson dye-bath simultaneously with the cranberry T-shirt 2 above.  I love the deep royal purple colour that it is now; will layer well with the jewel tones of the other T-shirts for some groovy colourful winter layering, when the time comes  ðŸ™‚   The texture of that cheap n’ cheerful fabric has to be one of my favourite knits ever.  I just wish it had come in ivory, rather than that intense blue colour.  Just think of the dyeing possibilities.  They would have been infinite  ðŸ˜€

Apart from the first Tshirt pictured, which is the original bodice of the dress on p18 of Pattern Magic 3 by Tomoko Nakamichi, the others are made up using the pattern formerly known as Burdastyle 06/2011, 120 first written about here.  In order to get a nice fit that pattern has been shaved and sliced and diced and completely and utterly altered until each and every seam-line is different from the original.  As well, I don’t use the neckline facing pieces at all.  As for the zip?? well forgetaboutit ….So I guess it can’t lay claim to being Burdastyle 06/2011, 120 anymore.
But my carved-up version is a great fitting T-shirt pattern now…  ðŸ˜€  Yay for that!

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Having a cuppa…

Self-stitched September, Day 21
Today’s mini photo challenge, to be eating/drinking.
I whipped up a new Tshirt yesterday.
Hehe, “whipped-up”, a phrase that is music to the seamster’s ears, no?  Don’t you just love the very thought of it; whipping something up.  Especially since I am normally not much of a whipper-upper, but more of an agoniser-over-the-smallest-detail-er… well whipping something up is nice thing to do once in a while.
As whipping-up implies, my Tshirt is devoid of exciting or innovative dressmaking features.  It’s just an ordinary white Tshirt and is not exciting at all.  But I decided to be kinda official about it this time… usually I lay down one of my existing Tshirts and trace around it but I’ve decided that I should do something about getting a proper pattern that is reproducable over and over.  In the 06/2011 Burdastyle magazine I noticed this Tshirt pattern 120 immediately and thought I would give it a whirl.  So traced out my size based on my measurements, cut it out, machine basted and tried it on (normal modus operandi for trying out a new pattern)  Was a bit surprised to find out I swam in it!  Look at the photograph; the model is hardly swimmming in her Tshirt now, is she?  In fact it looks like a remarkably well-fitting garment, so what is going on here?  Here below are my pattern pieces; the black lines are the stipulated stitching lines and the red lines are my adjusted stitching lines in order for me to get a garment that looks like the one in the picture.  Only the shoulder seams remain unaltered…  ridiculous, no?  

I also noticed that the pattern calls for an invisible zip closure in a centre back seam and for front and back neck facings. Personally I think that is overkill for a Tshirt.  Invisible zips?  Facings?  I think not.  Instead I opted to cut the back in one piece on a centre fold and cut bands to finish the sleeve and neck-hole edges.  This is a very nice finish I learnt it by studying some of my Metalicus tops to see how they finish some of their knit edges, so I think of it in my head as “the Metalicus finish”.  I think it is a beautifully clean and easy finish.  It uses the self-fabric so blends in nicely with the garment and doesn’t require you to find matching ribbing or to own an expensive coverstitch machine.  You just cut a band to fit (or a little bit smaller), sew it into a ring and fold in half along its length, then serge the raw edges together with the raw sleeve and neckline edges in one seam, like so.  I like this finish for a Tshirt.  For the lower hem I just overlocked the raw edge, pressed under by about 4cm and hand slipstitched into place.  This is a flatter and smoother finish than the Metalicus band method, so works well for the lower hem where I wanted less bulk.
I also altered the neckline of the pattern, cutting a deeper and wider curve, and lengthened the sleeves to elbow length.  Hehe, I guess it is not even the same top now, is it?  
So, since I haven’t really used the pattern as intended I won’t write a pattern review, but will save that for a time when I actually check out the pattern properly!

Details:
Tshirt; kinda my own design, using Burdastyle 06/2011, 120 as a starting point, white knit stuff
Dress; the gathered hole dress drafted from Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi, grey wool mix, details here
Leggings; my own design, beige knit stuff, details here, and my tutorial for making your own custom fit leggings pattern here
Hand warmers; knitted by me using Morris 4 ply wool in Imperial Blue, details and my pattern here
Boots; Andrea and Joen from Uggies in Dunsborough (now Eco boutique)

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