Tag Archives: Collars

Blue-grey hoodie

I have made a hoodie; this one for Sam.  
Sam is my quiet one; he never asks for anything, on the contrary he will firmly and testily deny that he ever needs new clothes or any new belongings at all.  But one of the fabrics in my stash was this beautifully soft jersey; a very fine quality knit in a shade of cool grey/blue that I think really is perfect for Sam’s fair colouring.  So I set about making him something new anyway.
The fabric is part of a fabulous stash I bought at the Morrison remnants sale.  This particular “remnant” was about 5-6m and cost $15.  I know, right?!  That Morrison yearly sale is well worth checking out!!

For a pattern, I used the same old hoodie of Craig’s that I used to draft his new hoodie, altered slightly to custom fit Sam.  Namely, I narrowed the body and shoulders, and raised the height of the hood.  The hood on the original Tshirt is a bit short, not really sized to be actually worn comfortably over a man’s head.  However I know Sam probably will want to wear it up every once in a while, so made it a touch taller than the original.
kbenco and Rachel both expressed an interest in seeing more specifics of that interesting combined collar/hoodie, thank you for the request, ladies!  So I took a few snaps to illustrate how it all goes together…

The hood is composed of two shapes; a hood piece cut less wide than normal, and a U-shaped collar piece, slightly wider at the bottom of the U than at the edges, that forms a combined hood edging and collar.

Sew the two hood pieces right sides together just like normal.

 Sew the two short ends of the U-shape together, right sides together, on each piece.

Lay these two pieces together, right sides together, and sew together around the entire inner shorter edge of the curve.  Turn out and press.  One layer is the outer collar; the other the facing.

Measure and mark for the holes for the drawstring in the collar; mine are situated 1cm below the lowest point of the inner curve, and 12cm apart.

You can make life easy for yourself and hammer in some eyelets, but if you are me and like to make challenges for yourself where none need exist; embroider some nice little eyelets using embroidery thread…
Only in the outer collar layer of course!  snip a tiny X for the drawstring hole.  Leave the inner (facing) layer un-snipped!!
With a double strand of embroidery thread, sew a running stitch circle around the snipped X

Back where you started, commence embroidering tight blanket stitches, situated hard up against each other, around the hole.  When completed, run the thread around underneath the stitching at the back to finish off.

From now on treat both collar layers as one; lay the right side of the collar piece against the right side of the hoodie piece, lining up the top centre seams and ensuring the hood edges join at equidistant points from the centre front of the collar piece.  Stitch together, and press.
Again treating both collar layers as one; lay the completed hood right sides together against the neckline of the top, ensuring centre fronts align and the hood seam is in the exact centre back.  Stitch together and press.

The drawstring is simply a 1m long, skinny strip of the fabric, with the long raw ends folded in on themselves, and topstitched down from the centre out to each end with a wide zig-zag stitch.  The original had fancy cover-stitching to finish it off, not having a cover-stitch machine this is my best it’ll-do.  And a perfectly fine and dandy option too, in my opinion!  Thread it through the collar and up around the hood edging with a safety pin, and tie each end off with a little knot to stop it slipping back through the hole.

The hoodie has a kangaroo pocket and a wide self-band at the lower edge.  The sleeves are hemmed using a twin needle.

Once it was finished and Sam put it on; he quietly, briefly, but spontaneously, mentioned that he liked it.  I count that as a fairly enthusiastic expression of approval of the new hoodie.

pinterestmail

Smoky scraps, and a collar

This little top made out of the scraps from Craig’s new shirt is one of my New Things; mental run-through of them yesterday and I realised this was totally appropriate for hot weather, plus went well with this little skirt that itself is the result of scraps…  Actually (lightbulb moment), my entire outfit here is made from the leftover scraps from shirts I have made for Craig…  the skirt out of the leftovers from this shirt and this shirt
Hmmm
I’m going to be giving myself a complex…  with all the talk of feminism floating about; what would a feminist make of the fact that I am clothing myself from my husband’s scraps?!?

Details:
Top; adaption of top “a”, Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, leftover shot cotton
Skirt; my own design, leftover linen scraps, inspired by a Celine skirt, details here
Sandals; Micam by Joanne Mercer, Hobbs shoes

Sewing details; should you be interested…
I had only the tiniest amount of fabric, so took out the pattern for top “a” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like (Natsuno Hiraiwa) which uses very little fabric.  

A little experimenting with the top I’ve already made from this pattern gave the gratifying knowledge I could get it on without having to undo the buttons; fabulous, as there wasn’t really enough fabric for the button band.  There definitely wasn’t enough fabric for those long shoulder ties, but there was just enough that I thought I could get a little straight foldover collar out of that strip that was left…
This is so easy, here’s a short how-to…
Simply measure around the entire neckline (not just half of the front, as I’ve misleadingly pictured here), remembering to allow for that seam allowance by measuring 1cm in from the edge.  Cut a strip of fabric to this width, plus seam allowance (I had just enough from that top little bit of fabric, yay!)

Sew the short edges of the band together to form a loop.

Attach right sides together to the neckline…

and fold over to the inside, slip-stitch in place, then topstitch on the outside for a nice neat finished appearance.

The inside seams are all French seams.

The armholes were finished with self bias binding.  Luckily you only need a miniature amount of fabric to make your own bias binding, so it’s usually pretty easy as well as cheaper, and it looks nice, to make it out of your leftover scraps to finish your garment.

pinterestmail

A collar tute

As part of my autumn sewing plan I’m making a mustard top, and actually remembered to take a few pictures during the construction process…  My mum has a Threads magazine-produced video of Louise Cutting demonstrating all these wonderful sewing tips and she showed a great way of cutting out and constructing collars that eliminates some seams, thus some of the bulk inside the collar.  The extra fabric of seam allowances in collars can sometimes spoil the whole look of your lovely flat crisp sharp edged collar you had envisioned, and I thought I’d give this method a whirl.
Here goes.
Firstly, you get your collar piece and make a new collar piece like so;

trace your collar piece with the centre marked (at right above), then flip over the pattern piece and re-lay the same piece, overlapping at the SEAM ALLOWANCE line (1.5cm in from the cutting edge)  If this isn’t marked on your pattern piece, you can mark it on yourself for accuracy (I haven’t because I’m slack).  Then trace around this piece again in its new position, and at the 2nd centre (at top left in the photo above) ADD A NEW SEAM ALLOWANCE, seen at the very top.  This whole final thing is your new collar piece.  The final centre of this new collar pattern piece is where it was in its original position when you first laid the pattern piece down, on the paper edge at far right in the photo above (I’ve marked it in the photo but it may be difficult to see my scribblings…)  Cut out your new collar piece, placing the centre on the fold.

You will end up with a collar piece that has one portion on the grain (the first one traced, your upper collar) and one portion on the bias (the second one traced, your under collar)  Now, with right sides together, sew the seam allowance of your 2nd (under collar) centre, you know, the one you added a seam allowance to when tracing the pattern.  In the photo above the unpicker/pointer is pointing to this seam.  
Now open out this seam and press, then with right sides together sew the outer collar edge seam.  In the photo below the under collar is facing up and my unpicker/pointer thingy is pointing to this new seam.

Now clip and grade your seams as per usual, turn and press, blah blah.  In the next photo I’ve added the collar stand.  Not quite sure why I’ve included this photo as it doesn’t really add anything, but seemed a natural progression in photo taking at the time…

And in this next photo is the finished collar on its stand.  Already you can see the points of the collar are nice and crisp, in spite of the fact that this collar has quite an acute angle which would normally be a challenge to get a nice sharp point on the end.  This is because of the elimination of one of the seams at this point.

And here is the collar finished and attached with its stand to the shirt (although sans sleeves at this point…)

One of the downsides to this method I reckon is the extra fabric requirement as its an awkward pattern piece to work with, but if you’re clever you can sort your pattern pieces around it to get the best layout using minimal fabric.
My final verdict?  This method works well for just a simple collar on a top that hasn’t been “tailored” as such, and expects the upper and lower collars to be cut from the same pattern piece…  Will I use it again?  If I can be bothered with the extra cutting out of a new pattern piece, and if a crisp sharp collar is a priority, then yes.

pinterestmail
Switch to mobile version
↓