Tag Archives: Vogue 1087

The Woman in Red

As soon as I read about the Red Dress contest over at Pattern Review I decided I wanted to enter.  I do so love red dresses, so I have no good explanation for why I did not have one already.  Oh, just remembered I do have a red ball gown, oh yeah.  But I’m talking about a dress that I can actually wear.  You know what I mean…  
When I was a teenager at school a teacher once opined that red was “my colour” and that little factoid has stuck in my head ever since.  But I do find red a quite challenging colour to mix into the wardrobe (I have a short list of stupid rules about the colour red and what other colours it can and can’t be worn with; that I won’t bore you with just now)  So I just have a few select red pieces.  A dress not being amongst said pieces, so it was time to remedy that! 
This beautiful scarlet rayon jersey has been sitting in my stash since my last birthday, when a group of my friends very thoughtfully gave me a Fabulous Fabrics voucher for a birthday present.  I know, I have the most amazing and fantastic friends, right?!  They know me so well!  I used my birthday voucher for this fabric, along with some other fabric that is still in the stash.
Vogue 1087 is a simply gorgeous dress pattern, and I was cross with myself that I had used such el cheapo fabric for my first version, that did not go the distance.  I’ve been really wanting to make the pattern up again sometime…  The same old problem about finding the right fabric and the right time, yeah.  Well I had found some great fabric.  The contest finally sparked that “right time” for my red dress to take shape.
I made a few changes to the pattern this time; which I have outlined in my new review below if you are interested…
And just saying girls; want your husband to really sit up and pay attention when you walk in the room?  Make yourself a dress like this one….  Word.  My husband absolutely looooves my new dress!

Details:
Dress; Vogue 1087, red rayon jersey
Sandals; akiel, from the op shop

below: no zip, and naturally one can still slip it on perfectly easily…  my advice? save yourself the trouble 🙂

Pattern Description:
Fitted dress, below mid-knee, has pleated and tucked front forming wrap effect. Front extends to back at sides, back has zipper and hemline vent. No side seams.
Pattern Sizing:
12-18.  I made mine to be a size 12 at the hips and re-graded the bodice to be a size 10.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
This is the second time I have made up this pattern.  The first time I made it up I wrote about steps 12-13 being tricky to work out and I ended up with the wrong side lapping over at the front and had to unpick and fix it up… well, after studying the instructions I am confident that they are wrong here.  If you follow the instructions to the letter as many other reviewers did then you WILL end up with the wrong side lapping over, and it is not your mistake.  To get the fronts lapping over the way they are on the line drawing you have to lay the OTHER side over first in step 12.  The simplest visual way to describe the correct way would be like a mirror image of how they have drawn each the two diagrams here, if you like.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I just love this pattern; the fronts folding across each other and wrapping around the body to make a gently draped X along with that curved triangle seam on the front skirt; these shapes combined together are very flattering to a woman’s curves.  The pattern pieces are very unusually shaped and the complexity of the construction makes the dress a nice challenge.
Fabric Used:
Rayon jersey
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
My first version of this dress, a size 12, was too loose and floppy for my liking in the bodice, and frequently fell off my shoulders.  So I re-graded the pattern to be a size 10 at the top and graded out to the size 12 around the hips.  I felt like this was quite a dressmaking achievement for me, since it is a complex pattern rated Advanced with unusually shaped pattern pieces, and I did not have a size 10 printed on my version and had to grade it myself by eye.  I’m pretty relieved how well-fitted it worked out!
Just like I mentioned in my first review; I see absolutely zero need for a zip in a stretch knit dress… really!? why is it even there in the pattern?!  So I cut my bodice and back neck facing on a centre fold and so eliminated both the zip and the whole seam.
According to the pattern, the darts on the back of the skirt are supposed to be facing out (sewn wrong sides together). I don’t think so. Mine are on the inside of the skirt, where they should be.
I altered the final stitching of the front pieces to the bodice piece, to sit in a position that I preferred. My neckline is more “wrap” than “squared” as a result.
A bit of experimenting revealed that any sort of edge finish was going to show through on that figure hugging skirt; so I left the edges of the seam allowances here raw; for a smooth look on the outside.  All the seams were sewn on my machine but all the bodice edges, the armhole edges and lower hems are invisibly hand-sewn.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is already my second version of this pattern, so definitely!
Conclusion:
I just love this pattern, and this dress, and my husband really loves it too  😉

This is my entry into the Red Dress contest

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Domestic diva XI

Hehe, realised that my most loathed domestic duty has not yet been immortalised here; the dreaded office work… (groan)
I used to be an analytical chemist (yes, with a degree n’ all…) and so led a reasonably interesting life with every day different from the next in terms of the samples I was required to analyse and for what.  I used my brain; that long neglected part of the body that begs for me to find something new for it to do… poor thing…  Nowadays I run our office mostly from home, and while it is necessary work and somebody has to do it, it is … just not my forte.  Said lamely…
Once, early in this career sea change, I had finished our tax after dogged hours pouring over paperwork, and had proudly mentioned it to my friend D, a proper accountant.  She replied with touching faith in my abilities “Well, that wouldn’t have taken you very long, surely?”    Er, hehe.  Give me a lab with an HPLC and a sample of pesticide with the order to develop a procedure for the identification of, and then determine the purity level thereof, thankyou…
And yes; I often do dress up like this for work, even if I don’t have to run out on an office-related errand.  I feel more professional, and Pavlovian-ly think it makes me more efficient.  Said hopefully…

Detail:
Dress; Vogue 1087, navy blue striped jersey knit, for my review of this pattern see here
Jacket; Simplicity 4698, navy blue raw silk (really should do a review of this wonderful pattern too…)
Shoes; Sandler, op shop

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“Jailbreak” dress

Remember this fabric and pattern?
Well I made it up over the weekend and submitted a review of the pattern to Pattern Review.  I’m still getting the hang of that site.  The other day I realised (lightbulb going off!) that the C beside your review meant there were Comments!!  Also finally worked out how to link to my photos to get a bigger photo displayed, a lot of my comments were complaining, and rightly,  that only the thumbnail photo wasn’t enough…!  I think I might sign up for a bit longer; at first I just signed up for the free month trial and am debating whether or not to continue with a paid membership…
Anyhoo, here is my review of Vogue 1087.  I know this dress seems a bit out of context for Australia, it being winter and all, and I still have some winter sewing to complete before I can get onto spring wardrobe planning.  But I just went ahead on a whim…

Details:
Dress, Vogue 1087, cotton jersey knit
Shoes; Sandler, from the Salvos op shop




Pattern Description:
Fitted dress, below mid-knee, has pleated and tucked front forming wrap effect. Front extends to back at sides, back has zipper and hemline vent. No side seams.
Pattern Sizing:
12-18
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Steps 12-14 were a little tricky to work out. I’m not sure how it happened, but I had the wrong front lapping over after this stage, so I had to go back and unpick and fix this up.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I didn’t like that it would be very difficult to adjust to custom sizing.
Fabric Used:
thin stretch jersey knit
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
According to the pattern, the darts on the back of the skirt are supposed to be facing out (sewn wrong sides together). I don’t think so. Mine are on the inside of the skirt, where they should be. And I inserted thin strips of bias-cut woven cotton under the zip tape to stabilise it.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I would sew this again. It’s a beautiful dress.
Conclusion:
One thing I can’t understand about this pattern, and didn’t even before I started, is WHY DO YOU NEED A ZIP IN A STRETCH FABRIC DRESS? However I went ahead and inserted an invisible zipper as instructed. And now the dress is finished I can still slip this thing over my head no worries, with no need for a zip. Next time, I’m leaving the zip out…!
As I had chosen a striped fabric the biggest difficulty I had in making this dress up was matching the stripes up in inserting the zip, in stretch fabric no less. And when you factor in the joining of four pieces (L & R bodice and L & R skirt) all on your zip, matching the stripes becomes even more tricky. The instructions did say not suitable for striped fabric, so perhaps it’s my fault. But I really like the final look of the dress in stripes! And I got them matching perfectly, so it worked out.
Step 23, the pattern instructions say to finish the neck edge, you will also have to finish the armhole edge here, although it doesn’t say so…
Next time I make this, I will also either interface the back neck facing, or cut the pieces from a woven non-stretch fabric. This would give a better finished look.

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Unexpected inner workings…

Most of the time I make predictable choices in lining by carefully matching my lining fabric to the outer layer to get as close a match as possible, but every so often I go for something completely different.  A little burst or jolt of surprising colour just to give a little zing of unexpected pleasure when I catch sight of it, and what are our clothes if not to give us pleasure as well as the necessary warmth and modesty requirements?
Even on my wedding dress I chose a soft rose pink lining to go under the ivory silk taffeta of my dress, because I wanted to project a sort of rosy pink glow on my wedding day… I know it is kind of funny, we were quite young when we married and features such as a pretty pink glow rated highly on my scale of ideal looks.  Wouldn’t be a look today’s bride would go for I think, my friend E and I the other day were discussing how sophisticated bridal fashions are now compared with the “princess” look most of my generation sported back then.  My wedding dress was heavily influenced by Princess Diana’s, who was the absolute epitome of chicness and coolness when I was a teenager….  sigh, lapsing into nostalgia somewhat here…
Back to the subject I went through my wardrobe and selected some samples of contrasting linings/facings I’ve utilised recently:
You’ve probably never seen the purple underskirt to this floral number before;

I used some leftovers of this floral fabric to edge the seams of my burnt orange skirt; (I’ve already shown this picture recently, but it fitted in with my theme for today so sorry to rehash this one…)

This pale blue/silver lining adds a cool futuristic metallic touch to this black lace gothic inspired skirt;

I saw a divine vintage black velvet evening coat in Melbourne with an unexpected and stunning primrose yellow satin lining which I have regretted ever since not buying; I have since bought some fabric and am still working on the perfect evening coat shape;

For the record I DIDN’T make this corduroy coat, but its quirky lining always brings a smile to my face;

And this vintage fur coat which I was so lucky to have been given recently (please don’t be cross PETA supporters, this coat is old, probably older than anybody reading this blog) has a gorgeous warm tangerine lining;

My snakeskin print outfit?  Finished and ready to show to you soon, and here is a preview…. A lining for a satin skirt is essential if you don’t want it clinging to your legs closer than leggings, I chose a jungly shade of rich green for the lining;

Confession: I had vowed recently not to buy any more fabric until I’d finished my stash.  Well, I’ve been a bad girl.  To paraphrase Beyonce (to Lady GaGa) I’ve been a very very bad bad girl…  I read a review by Erica B on how very difficult this Vogue 1087 dress was to make.  Then I read in Australian Stitches how Cate can Reyk found the same to be an extreme challenge.  Well, I didn’t need any further encouragement.  I just love a challenge.  I’m pretty competitive that way.  So this is now been added to my to-do list….

Keep you posted!

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