a Japanese indigo dress

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 I’ve made another Yoshimi dress  🙂
Pattern: Vogue 2900.  This pattern will always be in my head the
vogue2900“Yoshimi dress” since her versions are all very inspiring to me, and as well, the lovely Yoshimi herself personally recommended it for me, so there you go.
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Fabric; linen, which I bought as plain white from Potters Textiles and then dyed real indigo, by which I mean using a real live, actual Japanese indigo plant-based dye pot!  Yup, how awesome is that? I feel so very fortunate to have been given the chance to use Japanese indigo dye, since it’s quite a rare beast in WA.  Growing the plant itself is very difficult here, and yes, I have tried and experienced a personal fail myself in that area… *represses sob*
Anyway, a few months ago, Nicki got together a group of us Perth girlies to go on a fun day out… and what constitutes a fun day out for the likes of us self-dressmakers more that a sartorially related, hands-on, “doing” thing!  And what’s more hands-on than dyeing your own fabric in a real indigo dye vat?!  This dye-vat is the work of the ultra talented and creative Trudi Pollard of Pollard Design Studio.  Visiting Trudi’s studio in Bedfordale and viewing her many amazing creations is quite the inspiring and very humbling experience.  Some of her exquisite textile art can be viewed at the studio’s site here.
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 I pre-washed my linen twice before the day but was hoping/aiming for just a touch-but-not-too-much blotchiness/unevenness; that lovely natural patina, you know.  It worked out just spot-on how I wanted!
Construction notes: the seam lines in this pattern are lovely and interesting to my eyes and I wanted to highlight them somehow… the first time I made it up I made black cotton edging strips and this time I wanted to do something a bit different, to differentiate it from that dress in my wardrobe.  Now, what does one think of when you think of indigo cotton? well for me Levi jeans are pretty high on the list.  And Levi jeans have that very distinctive double orange topstitching allover, so I went with that as inspiration.  It’s a lot more visually subtle than the black edging, but it’s there, and I really like it!
I had a look online to learn more about the origin of that orange topstitching, and interestingly enough, the reason for it was to go with the copper rivets that were used to strengthen jeans!  Hmmm no copper rivets on my dress, whoops.  Oh well!
I took great care to make sure those diagonal seam lines ended on the exact point and also put in a few little orange bar tacks on other random sewing junctions, for fun.  I know, you can barely see them on the far-away pictures, but up close and personal I think they add a bit of interest to the dress.
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The invisible zip saga… to sum it up, there was not a colour match even halfway acceptable!  I chose a light blue and after inserting, just very carefully touched up the more visible bits of the zip tape with a felt-tip pen.  This may or may not wash out over time, in which case I can always just touch it up again.
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Then the pale blue zip pull was still too glaringly pale for my liking too; so I painted it coppery-orange with nail varnish, custom mixed using a few different colours from the small army of nail varnish bottles that live in my bathroom drawer.  I knew all those funny colours would come in handy again some day!
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Insides; all raw edges were overlocked with white thread, and I used white thread in the bobbin too, for continuity.  I know; it’s not like anyone will ever see inside the dress, but to have it all looking cohesive is still a very satisfying sight to me.
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So, that’s it, done and dusted!  Now to continue with the small mountain of Christmas-related tasks I’ve lined up for myself and been busily and secretively working away on like a squirrel.  I feel like I’ve been racing around like a crazy scatterbrained whirlwind lately.  Crisis point not yet reached, but getting there…
Later dudes!
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Details:
Dress; Vogue 2900, in indigo dyed linen, with orange top-stitching
Sandals; from the oppie, yonks ago
Sunnies; ma RayBan wayfarers
 in twirlerrific actionDSC_2672
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41 Thoughts on “a Japanese indigo dress

  1. Vicki on 18/12/2015 at 10:55 am said:

    What a lovely dress. And memories sewn in too!

  2. This is a perfect, timeless pattern for this special fabric. I love everything about it and it is very you. I’m sure you’ll wear this for many years to come and remember the fun you had dyeing and making it. The new blog is looking great too.

  3. The orange stitching is such a nice touch. And on denim-colored linen to boot!

  4. Another beautiful dress.

  5. A lovely dress with terrific details. Indigo dyeing sounds fun.

    • Carolyn on 20/12/2015 at 3:11 pm said:

      thank you Anne! yes it is a lot of fun, I only wish either it was an easier plant to grow here, or there were more opportunities to do it 🙂

  6. A lovely indigo dress. You did a beautiful job as always.

  7. This really is a lovely classic style dress. I have admired Yoshimi’s versions as well. I really like the nod to denim jeans with your topstitching.

  8. The dye day sounds like a lot of fun! And the jeans topstitching is the perfect touch.

  9. So beautiful. You found the perfect match for this linen, I am sure Yoshimi will be proud!

  10. Lovely, and loads of special Carolyn details. I’m sure it will be wonderful for your Aussie summer.

  11. Very nice indeed. Love the top stitching.

  12. Ooh and nice new blog look! Tres chic!

  13. Beautiful dress and the top stitching is the perfect detail.

  14. So beautiful. I used this pattern too.
    Susan

  15. What a wonderful dress to make with your precious indigo dyed fabric. I love those details, they do make all the difference.

  16. What a great idea for zipper coverage. I like your dress too. Jo x

  17. Another wonderful version of this dress! But what an amazing adventure with a group of like minded women – getting the chance to die your own fabric – how awesome was that!

  18. You always do such interesting things! I would love to have someone organising me a hand dying day 😀 I’m not so keen about organising it myself I must admit, but if you’ll show more of those beautifully hand dyed garments I think I’ll just have to it! 😉 The dress turned out beautiful and I love how much attention to detail you paid.

  19. I’m awed by all the work that you put into this dress and it’s so beautiful – simple yet intricate like the Japanese culture. The skirt has such a nice swing. I love how even the white interlock looks inside. So couture!

  20. Your dress looks lovely! I’m so impressed with the way you customise every detail, from dyeing your fabric (something I’d love to try myself) to painting your zip pull. It makes your finished garments really special!

  21. Kathrin on 19/12/2015 at 5:57 am said:

    I just love this dress with the orange seams on it. If it was in my wardrobe it would be worn a tonne. I guess it probably will be worn just as much in yours, too. The pattern is a real classic – too bad it’s not for sale anymore 😉 The new blog reflects your style well.

  22. Philippa on 19/12/2015 at 6:24 am said:

    Indigo dying, what fun! I love your attention to detail, you have made a lovely dress I am sure will get a lot of wear.

  23. Beautifully elegant as ever.

  24. Beautiful dress Carolyn, and I love the orange topstitching, and those beautiful even bar tacks!

  25. Your dress looks absolutely wonderful – all the details! I’ve had this pattern sitting in a drawer for (um) years. For some reason it gets bypassed, but with the inspiration of your efforts, perhaps I’ll actually pull it out come warmer weather.

  26. this is one of my favorite items you have ever made. love the jeans/denim details and the color is fantastic. I bought this pattern when it was new and each time I have seen Yoshimi’s versions I think about making it. so now I have found my sewing new year’s resolution. And I can only hope it as nice as your version.

  27. Your indigo dress is lovely, I love all the Details with Hand dyeing, top stitching, bar tacks and zip colouring. You surely had a wonderful day together dyeing your fabric with real WA indigo. 🙂

  28. Lovely! I just love linen right now and dyeing it yourself is so special. Great solution for the zip!

  29. Cool dress. Nice touch with the orange stitching. It’s funny how nice it is to have the insides of a garment look pretty – when I take the time I never regret it!

  30. Ah! this is the reveal I was waiting for! Apologies for my mumblings about ‘green’ – must have been a senior moment thinking of your last post. This is really lovely, and so beautifully done as always.

  31. What a lovely dress! The jeans topstitching details are just perfect, as is the orange zipper pull. I never thought to investigate the reason for the color of denim topstitching thread–how interesting!

  32. Ooom …I’ve loving this dress. Impeccable workmanship and design aesthetic as always.

  33. Very lovely! How cool that you have a place you can go to dye things.

  34. That dress is a really nice shape. I do love pockets. Fantastic job with the topstitching too.

  35. Terrific fabric choice Carolyn, you’ve cooked up a storm in blue. I too love a bartack, its the details isn’t it?! I understand this pattern has a lowered waist, but I wonder how it would look if the waistline band were raised about 2-3cm? More conventionally flattering or proportionately boring??

    • Carolyn on 24/12/2015 at 11:10 am said:

      Thank you Lesley! I think the waistband of this particular design would be very difficult to re-situate; the design has four bodice seam-lines that go down to meet up in a perfect point at the top of the waistband, which would be put out of whack with an altered waistband, also the skirt with pockets starts immediately below the waistband, and as they are now, are the ideal height for you to put your hands in… if the waistband was moved higher I think you’d have to rethink the skirt/pockets design, as well as the bodice!

  36. Love it, the lines of the dress, the way you have dyed the fabric and the topstitching, just love orange.

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