I’ve made a new dress! a dress comprised of panels and bands. This is Vogue 1316 and I made it using three pairs of old corduroy jeans, ivory, chocolate and a faded black; plus a piece of new black corduroy, itself a leftover from my black corduroy flares-now-bootlegs. Ha! hanging on to those old jeans and leftover scraps payed off… eventually. It can be seen by the mangled leg of the jeans on the left that these have been partially harvested previously, when I made the Black parliament…
I managed to get the pieces for the dress, following the grain AND the nap (no small feat) from these jeans, with only a few piecings necessary. The original hem has been retained and incorporated into the lower hem of the skirt in each of the ivory and chocolate brown lower skirt panels. The widest panels I cut from the leftover piece of black corduroy, because that piece was the widest… the bonus is that this is the hip area and the darkest fabric situated here gives a slimming effect.
The lower band of the dress is a very wiiide piece, and since jeans legs are not wide, this required joining three pieces together. But hey, I don’t think the joins scream “hey lookee here, seam!” very much, so I think I get away with it.
Also the lower front is cut over the side seam from a jeans leg, with the old side seam in the new centre front.
So, it can be seen above that my dress has luvverly deep pockets. The pattern does not provide for pockets. When I first saw the picture on the pattern envelope I thought that it did. That side band curving down from the waist and around to the back was situated in perfect hip pocket position, so it was a reasonable assumption to make. Perusal of the fine print revealed that I was sadly mistaken. Early elation (and it has pockets!) turned to disappointment (oh it doesn’t have pockets), turned to a dawning realisation (hey, it could so easily have pockets) turned to a firm resolve put those missing pockets back into the design where they were so inexplicably lacking (dammit, that dress really should have pockets!)
Adding them was not very difficult. I cut the skirt pieces to be bigger, grading from my usual waist size out to between one and two sizes bigger than my usual choice at the hips to accommodate having hands in the pockets. Then drew a rough, my-hand shaped piece onto paper, added this to the inner edge of pattern piece 13, the middle side front, and cut this composite new piece from the fashion fabric for the pocket. I cut the hand-piece from woven cotton for the pocket lining. I interfaced the corresponding section of the full-sized fashion fabric side band piece with iron-on interfacing, as this was to be the pocket opening and so needed stabilising, and joined all the pieces in the normal pocket way, the pocket lining to side band with a narrow seam allowance so the fashion fabric continues over and into the pocket within the fold. Additionally the pocket opening is under-stitched, to prevent the lining from rolling out.
I am unreservedly thrilled with how the pockets turned out, they really are in the perfect position, and I cannot understand why they were not there in the first place. Vogue would do well to include pockets, or at least the possibility of pockets, in all their casual designs imo , since they are clearly high on the list of Most Desirable Features in a Design, wouldn’t you agree? It’s certainly something I always look for in a casual pattern, or at the very least, the potential for finagling pockets if at all possible. I reckon this dress is only, like, a hundred times better for having pockets? Rough guesstimate, there.
The dress is fully lined; and even in a casual, toss-it-on-for-whatever, day dress like this I prefer the clean and streamlined minimalism of an invisible zip, so used one.
The fit… there were minor issues. For a “fitted” pattern I reckon it runs quite big and boxy throughout. But this was easily fixed, mostly through that handy back/side section seam, pictured below.
I am super happy with the dress, it was an enjoyable puzzle to put together and is very comfy and easy to wear. I love washed and worn corduroy, such a beautifully soft and warm texture in a winter dress. And it always makes me feel good to re-use old textiles constructively like this. 🙂
Details:
Dress; Vogue 1316, fashioned from 3 old pairs of cotton corduroy jeans plus another piece of cotton corduroy in another colour.
Tights; self-drafted, black merino, details here and my tutorial for drafting your own custom-fit tights pattern here
Boots; Andrea and Joen, bought from the now re-branded Uggies in Dunsborough
and merely because I find these pretty amusing… the Vogue pose
Description:
lined dress has several shaping bands and multiple panels, a central back zip
and walking vent
Sizing:
4-12. I cut my usual size 10 in the bodice tapering out to between a 12-14 at
the hips. This hip is larger than
my usual size, but I wanted to incorporate pockets into the design, which
requires a bit more room in the skirt.
In my opinion the pattern runs a little big, since I had to take in the
bodice quite a bit, and might go down to a size 8 in the bodice next
time.
it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished
sewing it?
the instructions easy to follow?
did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
attracted to the complex banding and panels design, lending themselves to
pattern through the use of tonal solid colours.
disappointed that it did not have pockets, considering that the side
band is perfectly positioned to have a pocket tucked under it. But I knew the
design would be very easy to adapt so that I could have my beloved
pockets. And it was, and so I have them 🙂
lining is not done in the best way, in my opinion. I don’t really love lining being sewed straight to the shell
of the dress like this. It is
under-stitched to help keep it all inside; but if I was going to make this
again I would instead make self-fabric facings for the neckline and underarm
and attach these to accordingly modified lining pieces.
For the lining, the pattern stipulates 1.8m. In my size, I found 1m is sufficient.
Used:
alterations or any design changes you made:
determined to incorporate pockets into the dress, so modified pattern piece 13
to be a pocket piece, and also drafted another piece to be a partial facing for
piece 12 with an integrated pocket lining. To accommodate hands-in-pockets wearing
ease, I drafted the skirt pieces to taper from my usual size 10 at the waist, out
to between 12-14 at the hips.
raised the height of the centre front by about 1cm, and am glad I did. Next time I might raise it even higher!
19-23: I prefer an invisible zip in my dresses, and I always install an
invisible zip before stitching the remainder of the seam below. I reckon this gives you a much better
and smoother finish.
me generally, so I pre-emptively shaved about 1cm width off the bust curve of both pattern pieces 3. Even so, at Step 24: sewing the back to side section seam; I found the fit still quite boxy and not
close-fitting enough for my tastes around the waist, so took out several inches in
width from the underbust and waist, graduating out again to the bust and hips.
Ultimately these alterations left me with a distinctly more A-line skirt than the pattern intended, and I am happy with that.
you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
gosh, I always say yes I will sew it again, and then I’m immediately distracted
by new patterns like a toddler with a shiny new toy! But I certainly would not rule out sewing this one again. This one is just going to be casual, everyday, winter’s dress. I’ve been thinking about the idea of using several bright clear colours demarcated by black bands, like a licorice
allsort. Wouldn’t that look cool?
yes 🙂
really love how it turned out! The interesting and unusual seaming pits the chosen colours against each other to dramatic effect. I can picture a multitude of
possibilities for colour-blocking here.
I am especially pleased with how my pocket alteration turned out, to be honest I
probably would not enjoy wearing a dress without pockets so much as one with,
so to be able to incorporate them so easily into the design was a very happy
bonus.
any fitting modifications I would not describe this as a fitted dress. I had to take
my usual size in quite a bit.
However it is quite easy to do a lot of final fitting through the back
to side section seams.
….photo-bomb!…
Love, love, love this! And the pockets make it perfect.
Oooooohhh I love it so much! I love refashioned projects and this dress looks fabulous!
So fantastic – I'd love to know if you sketched it out first to figure out which colours would go where? Or did you simply use the colours that you could, given the raw materials?
I hope someone in Vogue towers is currently slapping their forehead realising their missed pocket opportunity – that pocket placement is genius!
thank you Ms McCall! no sketches but I gave it plenty of thought and checked out which different pattern pieces could be cut from the available fabric before committing myself to any actual cutting. I really wanted the ivory for the banding and CB piece so was glad I could get these pieces all out 🙂
WOOOOOOOOOW!!! I am in love!!!!!! I think im going to have to make this! (This may be the first pattern purchase in YEARS!)
Ohhh I had this pattern and gave it away. I wish I hadn't now. What a great dress. I am always impressed by a quality upcycle.
It is lovely, and fits your well. I love that you refashioned old jeans!
What a fab dress! I love your outfits and this one is probably my favourite! I love the fact you used old jeans and the way you have put the colours together is genius. I'll have to get this pattern and make a summer brights version. Thanks for sharing.
What a striking dress – I can't believe you harvested the fabrics from clothing. Not really a pocket person myself, but I impressed with your front view – would never have guessed there were pockets there.
Love your dress and the fact that it is made with reused fabric makes it even more special. Lovely.
Very cool version of this dress
This is so clever and it looks fantastic! I can imagine the cord is lovely and cosy for the winter. I'm kind of regretting giving all my old jeans to the charity shop now!
Wauw, amazing dress. It looks really comfortable and warm, but really stylish at the same time!
Wow, amazing! I adore you.
…now I want to make this dress, too.
Absolutely gorgeous – I want to rush out and get that pattern now! As per usual, your detail and awesomeness shines again!
Clever recycle and fabulous dress. You look amazing.
The dres. has such special features to it and you added pockets too. Brilliant.
Great colours too. Yay to upcycling.
You are amazing ! I just love how you recycled all those jeans to make a very unique dress. Thanks for sharing the process.
Wow, it's just lovely. The side view is so interesting and flattering. I think you should be on the Vogue design and advisory panel!
I really love your interpetation if the pattern, the pockets are really a must. The favric choices are really bold as well. Love it 🙂
I am impressed by the stylish use of color combination. It is so much better than the original. The way you used white strips is fabulous. If I lived anywhere near you, you'd have to lock it in a safe 😉
It's fantastic how you make such a complex project look effortless. Those pockets are just too clever.
Ah…if you tie your hair up in a bun you could be the next Vogue model!
what a fantastic dress that is.. love the way you used different colors! i wish i have the patience to make a dress that has so many different pattern pieces – it's like a puzzle 🙂
Carolyn this is amazing! When I saw the trousers I couldn't believe they had become such a gorgeous dress, and the pocket alteration does make a big change 🙂
Best. Photobomb. Ever.
This is seriously impressive, Carolyn! And I agree- how coudl this pattern not have pockets drafted into it? It deserve pockets, darn it!
Wow! I like your version even better than the pattern!! It's stunning. That pattern is now going on my wish list and I'll be digging thru my clothing discard pile. What an inspiration.
I love this dress and the fact that you made it out of several pairs of old trousers is amazing. I'm so glad you added pockets, because you're right, this dress was crying out for pockets.
this is amazing, what you create is just inspiring. Thank you for sharing your gift so liberally with us 🙂
I do really love the photo blog as well.
Totally in awe here. And so pleased to see Sienna, she has been missing in action recently!
Absolutely brilliant and I love the fact that it is totally recycled. I have a dress cut out for the lovely weather but it is too hot to stay in and sew – I want to wear it not make it! Jo x
awesome recycling! it's kinda like my most favourite ever 60's suede skirt..it just gets better with age and wearing in!
great photos as well Carolyn!
Now that's what I call a jigsaw puzzle! Its amazing! and such a cool way to reuse old clothes. Not sure I would have the patience, but it is very inspiring as ever.
Divine! What a pretty dress! The use of old corduroy pants to make this dress was brilliant! I also thought this dress had pockets, so I'm glad you added them, they look perfect.
PS: Love the picture of you and Sienna.
I love your dress, what a creation you have made. Amazing job.
I love it! Such a great way to recycle old clothes. I'm not sure I would have thought of using old trousers. The pockets are a genius addition.
Congratulations! What a fabulous dress you have created – and that from old jeans! I am in absolute awe. You set an impossible standard, which is impossible to achieve for someone like me – but you are an absolute inspiration and ….. One day I am going to try something daring – just like you! Ha ha I wish!
Refashioning at its best to say the least!
What an impressive project on many levels – love the complexity, fabric and fit on you. This is super.
Yes, those pockets made the dress perfect. A beautiful and impressive dress. Your skill is amazing!
I am really enjoying your sense of humour, it's coming out more and more lately in your blog posts!
Such a neat dress and I love the vogue pose!
(Sorry also for the biscuit/cookie kerfuffle).
What an achievement! The dress is 100 times better for having pockets, yes, and another 100 times better for the use of recycled materials and another bunch of times better for the inclusion of the white in the color scheme. Yet again you've amazed us.
Amazing, just love it. It looks great on you
You are Superwoman. Or Supreme Commander Servalan. Seriously, it's an amazing dress and an impressive transformation from old trousers.
This is amazing! I would lovw to use old jeans for a dress hut have no idlea how to find the grain without it being 'off the roll brand new fabric 🙁 boo
Agree with Megan, Vogue really need to employ you. Great dress and an amazing refashion of your old cords and jeans. I can imagine it was quite the puzzle! I think your scientific calculation of about 100 times better, is probably right, if not marginally underestimated. Pockets are the key and I am always wanting pockets in clothes that I've made but don't have them. A licorice all sort dress? What could be better!
Clever use of the old jeans, love the result. Well done!
Wow, I'm really impressed!
WOW!!! You are one of my most inspiring sewist bloggers to follow and this is perfect!!!! Once again, amazing work – I can't wait to see what you make next! 😉
Aaahhh…..I love how you make the coolest things out of leftovers and used clothes (I'm also thinking of your Donna Karan dress made out of old T-shirts)!! It looks amazing. And thanks for all the construction details too.
What a stunning dress, and it looks very cozy and comfy! Its so great that you managed to puzzle it together using old jeans. Absolutely fantastic refashioning!
Absolutely LOVE this! You have outdone yourself (again 😉
Your refashions never cease to amaze me–they always look so high-fashion and like you were working with uncut yardage. Not "homemade" at all (as I refuse to use that other term that picks on my name that Project Runway made popular in the States!) You're definitely inspiring me to dig into my own refashion bin and see what I can come up with.
That's quite a feat to get all those pieces situated correctly! And plus it looks fab and unique!
Wow so great. Just have join the chorus and say so. Love the cord, the fact they are reused, that you managed to get all the pieces out and that it looks so cool ( as in trendy) and cosy at the same time. Very inspiring.
Absolutely gorgeous!!
You are my hero!
what a great idea to repurpose those old garments. it looks fantastic and I agree with you about the pockets. thanks for the extensive review. I think this pattern does look a bit boxy and I have taken it out of the envelope several times but just couldn't get moving on it. Love the "Vogue pose" photo 🙂
Amazing ! beautiful ! Il love it.
gosh running out of room for extra comments but here is mine for what its worth – fantastic use of old jeans and just love the dress
I have this pattern, still havent managed to find three fabrics the same weight, love your version especially those pockets, may have to raid amongst my old clothes.
Great! What a fantastic idea! Amazing!
Wow! Just WOW!
What a cool way to use up your old jeans! This is a spectacular dress.
LOL, any photobomb with Siena is welcome! She is beautiful! And, so is the dress by the way, you are quite the talented seamstress.
I'm always on the look out for 'patchwork' patterns like this because I have so many bits and pieces, but none of the ones I've seen so far come anywhere close to the sophistication of this pattern, which looks more 'city chic' than 'down home patchwork'. I almost said 'industrial chic' but I think maybe it's the colours you've chosen that give that very modern feel. The lines in that dress are really flattering as well, though you look good in a brown paper bag, I'm sure. As usual you've done a sterling job. There is a lady that blogs at http://projectminima.blogspot.co.uk/ who, so far as I can tell, is remaking all her old clothes into new. Her style is much different to yours, but you both share the habit of saving old clothes. I'm beginning to think I may have to save all mine, too, but first, more sewing practice…
This may be the best reuse/refashion I've seen so far. It looks gorgeous and comfortable, what a feat. Great job!
Fantastic refashion! Really wonderful! I will definitely try this pattern for myself.
I always love the photos with your dog – she's lovely.
Great dress! In fact, I think your choice of colours for the panels works better than Vogue's. And of course it needed pockets 😉
What a great way to use up those scraps of fabric in my stash! Beautiful job, looks stunning on you!
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This is a really great dress. It looks fantastic on and the clever use of scraps is inspiring! But the pockets are amazing… and you are right, lazy of vogue not to have them because that seaming was made for it.
Wow I am so impressed with this dress and even more so when I read that you had used fabric from old garments. You would really never have imagined that. It will be so soft and cosy for winter. I really, really like it. One day I hope my skills will be up to yours ! 🙂
Creative re-use of old garments always brings out your best Carolyn, and this dress is no exception. Superb interpretation and bonus points for the pockets.
I have loved many, many of your projects, but this one has reached a whole new level – wow.
The dress is just gorgeous, and that you used old corduroy jeans, added a pocket and managed to incorporate the original hem makes it ingenious.
But the main thing is just how great it looks!
well done!!
What an amazing dress. No one would guess this is made out of old jeans if you hadn't said. It's very interesting to look at.
That is such a cool dress! And being a fan of licorice allsorts, I'd love to see that version too. Go, Carolyn, Go!
Absolutely gorgeous dress and love the way you have used the old jeans and added the pockets, love it! Oh Sienna making sure you are okay 🙂
I *love* the way you've put these colors and fabrics together! Such a neat dress.
Beautiful and casual too! It looks very comfortable.
This is a really striking dress…and if you had not explained, I would never have guessed it started out as jeans! Good design to add the pockets.
It's a beautiful dress. Hard to believe it's a refashion.
I love your dress so much I don't mind being the 80th person to say so!
I loved this pattern when it was first released but I love your version even more. The pockets are genius. Even though I loved the pattern, I had pretty much decided against making it; now I'm excited about it again. Thanks for the inspiration!
thank you!
I love your dress. Beautiful piece of jigsaw-puzzling. I agree, pockets are essential!
Oh my goodness, what have you done!??? This is gorgeous!! Can't believe you made it out of 3 pairs of cords! So awesome. I now MUST get this pattern, I'm just in love with your dress. And, also love the photo bomber in your last photo. 🙂
What a great dress – I love the use (re-use) of the old fabrics!
Amazing, Stunning Project, CarolYn!
That is a FABULOUS dress – no-one would guess that it was made from jeans. I am regretting my 'chuck it out' mentality. You are an inspiration.
Utterly stunning and chic! I love your inventiveness and the re-use of fabric in the construction of such a wonderful garment.. You must be super happy with this dress. It is so flattering on you.
WOW!! This has to be in my top list of amazing refashion projects. I love corduroys and am now really, really sad that I gave away all my oldies. 🙁
Beautiful job with this dress, Carolyn!
This is just beautiful! I don't think I'll ever get rid of another pair of pants after seeing what I can do with them!
can not believe this is a refashion!!! WOW. it's stunning. you made the perfect choices in where to use each fabric… speechless!
The dress is beautiful and when I read that you used old corduroy pants for the fabric – well, wow. Love it!
Absolutely an amazing dress. I seem to remember that back in the "dinosaur age" most every Vogue pattern had pockets. I remember making evening gowns with pockets. Such a handy thing to have on just about any garment. You were so right to add these in.
Amazing dress! I can´t believe it…with 3 jeans! Very clever Carolyn!
Beautiful dress! What a wonderful refashion! You're amazing!
Certainly, these pants are the most productive things I've seen in a long time! You are great and absolutely brilliant! Love your sewing skills and love, love your creativity!! Wof!
Y'know, I was just looking at that pattern the other day – mind you I don't own it – and am delighted to see you make up such a wonderful version of it! And from jeans, of all the materials. Fantastic!
Gorgeous dress! I really like the flared hemline that resulted in cutting the bigger size. It really balances the dress out better then the original version. I am planning to make this in leather for fall, and really like the white you used for the bands.
It's stunning. I think the way you placed the lightest bands is what really makes it work. What a good idea to add pockets.
What an amazing dress, and so cool that you made it entirely out of trousers! It looks very flattering on you and I love that you added the missing pockets!
That's quite the refashion! Fabulous dress.
It is a beautiful dress, and you are so clever to make it out of old trousers. Who would think such an awesome outfit was once old trousers!!!!!
I want to buy this pattern because your version is just fabulous, actually better than the Vogue model, but then I don't want to buy the pattern to punish Vogue for not putting in pockets!
Oh I love a good refashion and this is certainly one of the best I've seen. Great job Carolyn you never disappoint.
Wow! I love everything about this dress – recycled, pocketed, lovely, corduroy. As always, thank you for taking the time to share it with us.
Your totally right, there should have been a pocket here to begin with. You should talk to Vogue. They clearly need a pocket czar, and I nominate you.
I am in awe of your skills! The dress is just gorgeous!
AAAAAAIIIIIIIIIEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Holy Crap Girl! This is incredible….awesome…fabulous….I also love absolutely everything about this dress.
Now I must buy this pattern and try this, but I think my corduroy pieces may be too small.
Between you and Yoshimi the Flying Squirrel – you ladies come up with the most gorgeous outfits!
I think this is a great inspiration for anyone trying to refashion clothes.. I guess the panelling allows for smaller cuts of fabric, so just perfect^
Amaaaaazing!! Love love love this so so so much!!! Can you tell I'm excited about this? The worn corduroy is a perfect complement to the dressiness of this pattern. I'm so inspired!
Amazing dress. i absolutely love it. And that it is made from old pants makes it even better.
Oh, I'm overwhelmed by all these lovely comments.. THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH! 🙂
I somehow missed seeing this when you first did it. Great work re-using old pants. Your dress looks great!
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