Tag Archives: Vogue 1316

a bit green about the gills

I made a green dress… this is a dress that I’ve been meaning to make for ages! and have been quietly gathering suitable green fabrics as I see or unearth them.  It’s actually been a very long term work in progress! since I identified what I thought could be the first suitable fabric about four years ago.  I know, right?!

You can actually see it right here; it’s the leftovers from this little bag that I made for Mum, for her birthday back in 2018… this is what I think of as the “jade” green colour centre front of the skirt part… it was harvested from a pair of silk trousers that Mum had let go years ago.  The “yellow” green raw silk was from the remnant bin at Fabulous Fabrics; as was also the “grey” green silk suiting remnant… although they were trophies from separate hunting trips… and the darkest forest green cotton corduroy was leftover from these paper-bag waist trousers, and originally from Minerva.

So obviously I love this pattern a lot, it’s the sixth time I’ve made it up!  Here’s a little collage of all the V1316’s I’ve made… from left to right, top to bottom they are:

1; made from four pairs of old corduroy trousers; black, brown, grey and cream…I describe how I add pockets to the design in this post too.

2; made from blue corduroy, that I pre-overdyed with different dyes to be four different shades of blue… this one is probably my own personal favourite…

3; made from four different colours of cotton corduroy.  I later overdyed the whole dress crimson for a more cohesive look

4; made using old denim jeans.  This was the first one I did not line, and it is perfectly fine of course!  This one is probably an equal favourite for me too!  🙂

5; made using yellow cotton canvas, leftover from the covers I made for Clara’s dog beds.  The seams are defined with blue bias cut cotton.  This seems to be everyone else’s favourite over on instagram!

6; my new one!

I’m extremely happy with my newest one! and I made a few slight mods, has well as the usual addition of pockets!  Of course!  I simply CANNOT live without pockets nowadays, sorry.  I know this is a very well-worn lament that perhaps should go without mentioning yet again, and yet this is a sewing blog and so I guess it really needs to be mentioned.  Sorry.

I lined the dress fully with light jade green lining fabric, and instead of using the same lining fabric to cut the shoulder pieces, like the pattern suggests and which I have obeyed for versions 1,2 and 3 in the past; I cut them from the dark green cotton corduroy,  I also cut an extra centre front bodice piece and stitched it to the neckline of the dress lining… these help to keep the lining “invisible” because I’ve always found in the past that the lining has a tendency to peep out on this dress, no matter how carefully you understitch the armhole and neckline edges.  This is such a simple fix and I’m glad it finally occurred to me!

Still pretty chuffed with these circa 2022 labels!  The challenge with each garment is to find a good spot to put it!

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the dog bed dress

Hmmm, a totally unromantic, slightly ridiculous and definitely a whaaaat?! title for a dress but to my mind it was just the obvious choice! See, when we knew Clara was coming along I looked out Sienna’s old dog mattresses (yes, doing this did evoke lots of feels) so as to re-cover them for the new arrival… I had a teeny bit of green upholstery fabric left from a previous re-upholstering job, enough for the smallest mattress, but needed some more for the other two, much bigger mattresses.  So off I hopped to Spotlight and bought some lovely bright yellow cotton canvas… our current lounge room colour scheme is all wood, white, neutrals and with spots of yellow and obviously the most important thing about dog beds is that they co-ordinate nicely with not just your dog but the decor too…  😉

After I’d finished, there were a few bits and bobs leftover, too much to throw away and to my delight I discovered the pieces for Vogue 1316 fitted on them, just.  No further incentive required, but off I went, snip snip…

from left: future dress, scraps… and maybe, shoes…?

This interpretation of the pattern; a one colour dress with contrasting strips to highlight the seaming of the design has always been one I had in mind to make some day… only I’d originally pictured white corduroy and with black inset strips to highlight.  But yellow/navy is fine with me.  The inset strips are actually navy blue, the leftovers from the voile binding I dyed especially to make my recent Sydney jacket.  So, it’s pretty much a free dress, something from nothing… the only thing I bought was the zip.  Waste not want not!

So, ta da! what more is there to say?

The fabric is super fray-tastic, so my first step was to overlock every single edge.  The method I used for the inset strips is the exact same method I used for my Swedish dress, … my tutorial for this is here.  The very high contrast between the yellow and the navy meant even the slightest bit of “off” sewing was immediately very very obvious, so I was super precise and accurate in my sewing here.  That’s OK, because I really do love precision work in sewing  🙂

my tip for lining up seams perfectly: only stitch a few cm, and check to see everything is as it should be before stitching the remainder of the seam on either side

pocketses!

I also adapted the pattern so I could have my pockets inside that curved front seam; an adaption I’ve made every single time I’ve made the pattern… if you want to see how I did that, the pictures of the pattern pieces are here.  I did take a little extra finagling to do the pockets with the inset strip, which along that front edge is of course a binding, and not an inset strip, so it’s a slightly different method… to see how I did that, see my tutorial here.  Different dress, but it’s essentially the same technique!

For the neckline, the lower hem and the sleeve edges, I trimmed away the seam allowance and simply bound the edges with the same bias binding.  Simple dimple!

My dog bed dress is unlined… I didn’t think there was any need for it with the nice sturdy canvas fabric.  My previous denim-jeans, version of the pattern is unlined too, and I think that’s fine for a more summer-y, casual style of dress.  Lining is not much fun when the weather is warm.

Haha, it’s funny; this kind of project, with tacky, unprecious fabric, that I just kind of get this idea in my mind and I jut wanna go for it! often turns out to be my favourite kind of project.  I sure enjoyed making this one, and I know I’m going to love wearing it too.

Below is how I wore it for its maiden voyage… Craig forced my hand into revealing it early when he chose it for the last day of my “their choice” challenge.  I’m like, but I haven’t blogged it yet!!  … usually I like to take some “nice” photos, you know… well serves me right for being lazy.  I like my navy cardigan with it but don’t think I would ordinarily choose these sandals to go with it  😉

My previous four versions of this great pattern are here, here, here and here

Details:

Dress; Vogue 1316, cotton canvas, voile strips to highlight seamlines
Tights; made by me, details here, and my tutorial for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here
Boots; nylon, from Zomp shoes
Cardigan (above); knitted by me, the Miette, details here
Sandals (above): akiel, bought from an op shop a gazillion yonks ago

extra pictures just because Clara’s looking adora-bubs

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jean genie

jean genieI’ve made a new dress using a bunch of my kids’ old jeans that I have vogue1316been saving for this very purpose…  and please note; yes, I am wearing denim shoes that I also made from old jeans, hehehe.  Just adding to the overall,terribly cohesive, jeans, jeans, jeans and yet more jeans look that I’ve got going on here.   Jeans from head to toe!! even though I’m not actually wearing any jeans, haha.  Long term readers may remember these shoes from when I made them a couple of years ago…  I’ve worn them a lot actually.  They seem to go with everything!
The Refashioners’ challenge this year was to make a garment using old jeans … which is fabulous timing for me! one of my imagined versions for this pattern has always been a jeans refashion and so the challenge just roused me from merely daydreaming about it and into action.  I’m a happy little refashioner from way back.. anyone remember Wardrobe Refashion? aaaah, I was a pretty active participant and was a little sad when it all wound down.  But still keeping up with that lifelong pledge!

Pattern; Vogue 1316.  this is the fourth version of the pattern I have made and actually the second I’ve made from old jeans, come to think of it!  My first version was made using four pairs of different coloured corduroy jeans.  See also my second, blue version, and my third, autumn version.  I still have several more plans for this pattern… but maybe I should wait before bringing any more to fruition; I now have three pairs currently rotating in my wardrobe, and a fourth might be just stretching credibility… just a bit!  It’s quite an eye-catching and distinctive design, over all.  This new one is pretty summer-y though, and I probably won’t be wearing it until things warm up around here a bit.

jeansMaterials;  obviously, all blue denim jeans.  I used three pairs of children’s jeans, one pair of child’s long shorts and one pair of adult jeans.  The adult jeans turned out to be necessary when I realised  that the full-length panels at the back would look pretty terrible if pieced at the waist; it’s a very much piecemeal kind of a design anyway, and to have that nice long smooth length of fabric at the back is just a nice visual anchor in amongst all that busy patchworking, in my opinion.  I decided it would be best to retain it; fortunately I had one pair of Craig’s old jeans in my refashioning bag and could cut the long back pieces from those.

jean genie 3topstitching My vision for this dress has always been to have lots of the existing jeans’ details retained in it, like the pockets with their decorative top-stitching, the coin pockets and belt loops and so forth; HOWEVER when it came down to it I retained very little of all that!  The design was just so…  busy; I ended up removing a lot of the little details I was going to put in.  There’s still plenty of the jeans bits and pieces left in, I reckon just the right amount to keep that definite “jeans flavour” to it.  There are a few original topstitched seams here and there, and the portion of a pocket left on the bodice.  I also added tonnes of new topstitching in terracotta upholstery thread, in fact every seam is topstitched down in some cases doubly so.

jean genie bodicesbaSomething I’ve managed to forget to blog about each time I’ve written about this dress… like all Vogue patterns, for a fitted design it’s a little blouse-y in the boob-al region for my figure; however the princess seamed bodice makes this a very easy fix.  I simply pin and stitch to shave a bit off the inner curve of the central bodice piece (above), and this solves the problem for me.  A very very easy small bust adjustment, and one I usually end up using for pretty much every fitted Vogue bodice with princess-seaming.  I don’t have the same issues with Burda, but always with Vogue.  I guess their “blocks” are a little different.

ventzip

The back vent (above) is topstitched in navy blue thread, rather than the terracotta.  Trust me, it just looked better this way.  I also used an navy blue invisible zip  This was the only new thing I bought for the dress!  The pockets (below) are lined with scraps of pretty floral voile… this was leftover from a dress that Cassie made for herself.  We bought the fabric together in Tokyo during our very first visit there in 2011, when we met Yoshimi and Novita for a fabric shopping day out,  Aaaah, yet more happy memories!

pocket liningOne pair of jeans, the very pale blue pair, was practically threadbare in places, but I still really wanted to have that pale blue as part of the lovely indigo-y mix…  these pieces I reinforced with lightweight iron-on interfacing to the back to stabilise and strengthen these areas (below).  Don’t want my new dress ripping in its first wear now, do I?!

skirt interfacing
For the bottom hem, I kept the original jeans’ hems in every piece (below).  This took a little bit of careful pattern placement, but I’m so happy with how it looks!  Yes, it’s a bit torn and worn in places, but that’s the honest history of the fabrics, right there.  The dress is a refashion, and proud of it.  The other little bit of history that I love about it is that you can just make out faint pink stains on one of the denims… this was a pair of jeans that Tim wore while painting once, and those paint stains never did come out despite many washes!  They are still there, and I LOVE them.  Oh, I’m a sentimental old thing, and happily so, too  🙂

hem

Details:

Dress; Vogue 1316, made from old jeans, see my original review of this pattern here
Shoes; made by me from old jeans and hand-carved wooden bases, details here

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a toasty autumn-y dress

autumny dress front

vogue1316I’ve made another dress.  Just right now, I’m fully into dress/skirt wearing, tending to pluck them from the wardrobe with barely scant regard to the several nice pairs of jeans in there.  I dunno why, since it’s winter, and you’d think I would want to be wearing jeans, but that’s just the way it is.  Of course I reserve the right to become a jeans fanatic again without notice, anytime down the track.
I have a perfectly good reason for a new winter dress… I’m meeting with a bunch of sewing ladies this Friday and you know what that means…. YES!  must sew something new to wear.  Can’t just wear any old thing, hmmmm?  Aaah, the pressure!  Sewing meet ups nearly always require new clothing, yes?  No worries, I’m totally on to it.  Note to self; need lots more sewing meet ups  #kidding  #kindof

autumny dress pocket

The pattern is Vogue 1316, a favourite which I have made twice before, each time with the addition of deep pockets (above) hidden under that long diagonal front curved band. (see my advice for adding pockets to the design illustrated here).  I seem to be in the habit of making a new one every year! but that’s not totally a surprise since I’ve unequivocally loved the design from the very first version.  I also seem to be in the habit of always making it in corduroy! which is kinda funny since I actually have plans for several different experiments using this pattern, none of which involve corduroy at all.  I should get onto those, tout de suite.  Maybe I should realise another one, and there’ll be two new Vogue 1316’s this year? Oh, I think so; yes, I do think so…

autumny dress back

This one is all wide-wale cotton corduroy from Spotlight, with an invisible zip from Spotlight, and the dress is fully lined in burgundy polyacetate lining fabric found in my stash, originally from Fabulous Fabrics.

autumny dress liningWell, for now I’m just going to enjoy mixing and matching this new one into the current wardrobe repertoire.  The warm toasty colours are going to go with lots of things I currently have, I think.

the colours in sunlight

colours
Ok, seeya!  soon I’m off to meet sewing ladies!  and to look at fabric!  and wool!  and eat yummy stuff!  #it’satoughlifecloseup

Wooot

Details:

Dress; Vogue 1316, cotton corduroy, my review of this pattern here
Tights; self-drafted, black stretch stuff, details here and my tutorial for making your own custom fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, details here

autumny dress side

LATER EDIT: 3 years later and the dress got a facelift! a rejuvenating dunk into a crimson dye bath…  I’d been feeling like that apricot in particular was a bit in-your-face in a colour-clashing sort of a way and a crimson dye-bath has united the colours so they meld in together so much more nicely now.  Feels like a new dress!

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blue ray

Winter is officially over here, so right on target I’ve finished a wintery little dress.  🙂 
I spent some quality time with my dyepot, dyeing bright blue corduroy in four different moody blues for the colour blocking.    This is my second version of Vogue 1316; I’ve dreamed up several different plans for this great pattern which I want to explore, including this one…  
One of the things about a colourblock design is that I think it’s more effective if the fabrics are all the same type and weight etc.  As well as the colours blending in and going together nicely somehow.  And it’s hard enough to find great fabric that you love, in great colours that you love too, let alone a single fabric in four great colours that you love, and that go together harmoniously.  Impossible!  So I made my own nicely co-ordinating set of coloured corduroys  🙂
My originally bright blue cotton corduroy is from Spotlight.
I divided the pattern pieces up into their colour batches and laid them out on my fabric, leaving a good margin around each piece to allow for a little error, just in case, then cut the colour batches apart for dyeing.  Before dyeing them I overlocked all raw edges to decrease the risk of distorting or stretching out the pieces during the dyeing process.  

I labelled each piece and was super careful to keep each label with its piece throughout the process and not get them mixed up!
my tutorial for basic dyeing here

I used iDye in various strengths of Black, Crimson and Chestnut; to get, from left:
-deep inky navy, from a biggish dose of Black, 
-royal purple; from a medium biggish dose of Crimson
-deep teal/aqua; from a medium dose of Chestnut, 
and finally the rightmost batch was soaked overnight in the leftover bath of Chestnut just to take the edge off that brightness, tone it down and dirty it up a bit.  The piece on the right is a small scrap of the original colour saved for comparison.

I took my own advice and put in pockets that sit underneath those long curved hip bands again, as described here.  Yes Vogue, I improved your pattern.

The dress is fully lined with navy blue polyacetate and I used a long, navy blue invisible zip.  As previously, I re-shaped the dress to be a little less boxy and bit more hourglass-y by re-fitting through those long back seams that run almost the full length of the dress.  A useful feature!

I’m so happy with this dress! it’s funny; I’m rarely 100% happy with things I’ve made but this project is pretty close to being completely satisfactory for me.   I’ve made another highly satisfying thing recently too, which I am yet to photograph and blog about.  The weather needs to warm up a touch first, but I’m so excited about that one too! I have to say, making two things in a row that I’m super happy with, in quick succession, has put me on SUCH a high. Honestly, I wish I could bottle this feeling.

Details:
Dress; Vogue 1316, blue corduroy dyed in 4 different shades using various iDye dyes, my review of this pattern here.
Tights; self-drafted, navy blue stretchy stuff, details here
Boots; Roberto del Carlo, from Zomp shoes

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the Panellist

I’ve made a new dress! a dress comprised of panels and bands.  This is Vogue 1316  and I made it using three pairs of old corduroy jeans, ivory, chocolate and a faded black; plus a piece of new black corduroy, itself a leftover from my black corduroy flares-now-bootlegs.  Ha! hanging on to those old jeans and leftover scraps payed off… eventually.  It can be seen by the mangled leg of the jeans on the left that these have been partially harvested previously, when I made the Black parliament…

I managed to get the pieces for the dress, following the grain AND the nap (no small feat) from these jeans, with only a few piecings necessary.  The original hem has been retained and incorporated into the lower hem of the skirt in each of the ivory and chocolate brown lower skirt panels.  The widest panels I cut from the leftover piece of black corduroy, because that piece was the widest… the bonus is that this is the hip area and the darkest fabric situated here gives a slimming effect.
The lower band of the dress is a very wiiide piece, and since jeans legs are not wide, this required joining three pieces together.  But hey, I don’t think the joins scream “hey lookee here, seam!” very much, so I think I get away with it.

Also the lower front is cut over the side seam from a jeans leg, with the old side seam in the new centre front.

So, it can be seen above that my dress has luvverly deep pockets.  The pattern does not provide for pockets.  When I first saw the picture on the pattern envelope I thought that it did.  That side band curving down from the waist and around to the back was situated in perfect hip pocket position, so it was a reasonable assumption to make.  Perusal of the fine print revealed that I was sadly mistaken.    Early elation (and it has pockets!) turned to disappointment (oh it doesn’t have pockets), turned to a dawning realisation (hey, it could so easily have pockets) turned to a firm resolve put those missing pockets back into the design where they were so inexplicably lacking (dammit, that dress really should have pockets!)

Adding them was not very difficult.  I cut the skirt pieces to be bigger, grading from my usual waist size out to between one and two sizes bigger than my usual choice at the hips to accommodate having hands in the pockets.  Then drew a rough, my-hand shaped piece onto paper, added this to the inner edge of pattern piece 13, the middle side front, and cut this composite new piece from the fashion fabric for the pocket.  I cut the hand-piece from woven cotton for the pocket lining.  I interfaced the corresponding section of the full-sized fashion fabric side band piece with iron-on interfacing, as this was to be the pocket opening and so needed stabilising, and joined all the pieces in the normal pocket way, the pocket lining to side band with a narrow seam allowance so the fashion fabric continues over and into the pocket within the fold.  Additionally the pocket opening is under-stitched, to prevent the lining from rolling out.  

I am unreservedly thrilled with how the pockets turned out, they really are in the perfect position, and I cannot understand why they were not there in the first place.  Vogue would do well to include pockets, or at least the possibility of pockets, in all their casual designs imo , since they are clearly high on the list of Most Desirable Features in a Design, wouldn’t you agree?  It’s certainly something I always look for in a casual pattern, or at the very least, the potential for finagling pockets if at all possible.  I reckon this dress is only, like, a hundred times better for having pockets?  Rough guesstimate, there.

The dress is fully lined; and even in a casual, toss-it-on-for-whatever, day dress like this I prefer the clean and streamlined minimalism of an invisible zip, so used one.
The fit… there were minor issues.  For a “fitted” pattern I reckon it runs quite big and boxy throughout.  But this was easily fixed, mostly through that handy back/side section seam, pictured below.
I am super happy with the dress, it was an enjoyable puzzle to put together and is very comfy and easy to wear.  I love washed and worn corduroy, such a beautifully soft and warm texture in a winter dress.  And it always makes me feel good to re-use old textiles constructively like this.  🙂

More inane drivel thoughts about this pattern can be found in my pattern review below if anyone is interested.

Details:
Dress; Vogue 1316, fashioned from 3 old pairs of cotton corduroy jeans plus another piece of cotton corduroy in another colour.
Tights; self-drafted, black merino, details here and my tutorial for drafting your own custom-fit tights pattern here
Boots; Andrea and Joen, bought from the now re-branded Uggies in Dunsborough

and merely because I find these pretty amusing… the Vogue pose

Pattern
Description:
Fitted
lined dress has several shaping bands and multiple panels, a central back zip
and walking vent
Pattern
Sizing:
Size
4-12. I cut my usual size 10 in the bodice tapering out to between a 12-14 at
the hips.  This hip is larger than
my usual size, but I wanted to incorporate pockets into the design, which
requires a bit more room in the skirt. 
In my opinion the pattern runs a little big, since I had to take in the
bodice quite a bit, and might go down to a size 8 in the bodice next
time.
Did
it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished
sewing it?
Yes.
Were
the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What
did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I was
attracted to the complex banding and panels design, lending themselves to
pattern through the use of tonal solid colours.
I was
disappointed that it did not have pockets, considering that the side
band is perfectly positioned to have a pocket tucked under it. But I knew the
design would be very easy to adapt so that I could have my beloved
pockets.  And it was, and so I have them  🙂
The
lining is not done in the best way, in my opinion.  I don’t really love lining being sewed straight to the shell
of the dress like this.  It is
under-stitched to help keep it all inside; but if I was going to make this
again I would instead make self-fabric facings for the neckline and underarm
and attach these to accordingly modified lining pieces.
For the lining, the pattern stipulates 1.8m. In my size, I found 1m is sufficient.
Fabric
Used:
Cotton corduroy in four different colours 
Pattern
alterations or any design changes you made:
Pockets!  I was
determined to incorporate pockets into the dress, so modified pattern piece 13
to be a pocket piece, and also drafted another piece to be a partial facing for
piece 12 with an integrated pocket lining.  To accommodate hands-in-pockets wearing
ease, I drafted the skirt pieces to taper from my usual size 10 at the waist, out
to between 12-14 at the hips.
I
raised the height of the centre front by about 1cm, and am glad I did.  Next time I might raise it even higher!
Step
19-23: I prefer an invisible zip in my dresses, and I always install an
invisible zip before stitching the remainder of the seam below.  I reckon this gives you a much better
and smoother finish.
Sizing;  I find the bust of Vogue fitted patterns to be drafted too big for
me generally, so I pre-emptively shaved about 1cm width off the bust curve of both pattern pieces 3.  Even so, at Step 24: sewing the back to side section seam; I found the fit still quite boxy and not
close-fitting enough for my tastes around the waist, so took out several inches in
width from the underbust and waist, graduating out again to the bust and hips.
Ultimately these alterations left me with a distinctly more A-line skirt than the pattern intended, and I am happy with that.
Would
you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Oh my
gosh, I always say yes I will sew it again, and then I’m immediately distracted
by new patterns like a toddler with a shiny new toy!  But I certainly would not rule out sewing this one again.  This one is just going to be casual, everyday, winter’s dress.  I’ve been thinking about the idea of using several bright clear colours demarcated by black bands, like a licorice
allsort.  Wouldn’t that look cool? 
And
yes  🙂
Conclusion:
I
really love how it turned out! The interesting and unusual seaming pits the chosen colours against each other to dramatic effect.  I can picture a multitude of
possibilities for colour-blocking here. 
I am especially pleased with how my pocket alteration turned out, to be honest I
probably would not enjoy wearing a dress without pockets so much as one with,
so to be able to incorporate them so easily into the design was a very happy
bonus.
Without
any fitting modifications I would not describe this as a fitted dress.  I had to take
my usual size in quite a bit. 
However it is quite easy to do a lot of final fitting through the back
to side section seams.

….photo-bomb!…

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