… as promised, and thank you to everyone who showed an interest 🙂
And, just saying; I am a believer that there is no necessarily right or wrong way to do anything in sewing, but whatever works and is neat and tidy is pretty much going to be a “right” way, no matter how you got there! This is merely just showing a way that I chose to do it 🙂
Step 1; sew the zip into the open seam. Also, when inserting a zip into a very lightweight sheer fabric like this I always stabilise the seam with strips of the selvedge as described here, the ends of these can be seen at right protruding out either side from underneath the seam. I used the selvedge of the thicker lining fabric here.
On the inside, pinch the seam allowances together, aligning the raw edges, right sides together. Snip 6mm (2/8″) into the seam allowances, underneath the zip tape, about 1cm away from the stitching.
Turn raw edges to the outside, wrong sides together, align and pin. Stitch a narrow 6mm (2/8″) seam starting from the “snip” and continuing down to the bottom edge of the seam. Note, this seam is on the outside of the garment.
Press the stitching. Open the seam and press open.
Close it again and press closed.
Trim the seam allowance to half its width.
Open the newly skinny seam and press open.
Turn to the inside, folding as accurately as possible along the line of stitching with wrong sides together. Press the fold firmly in place.
Underneath the zip, pin the stabilising selvedge strips in place over the seam.
Baste a 6mm (2/8″) seam, commencing a few inches below the lower end of the zip and going up to as close to the zip stitching as possible. Turn it out and check for straightness and neatness.
Note; this is the most difficult part of the whole thing! below at right is pictured my first, not particularly straight, line of basting stitches 😛
If it isn’t neat, unpick and re-baste. When you’re satisfied with it, stitch over the basting stitches.
Stitch the remainder of the French seam, from the previous stitching down to the bottom edge of the seam in a 6mm (2/8″) seam allowance.
Press the French seam to one side, and catch the lower ends of the zip tape by hand to secure it.
And that’s it! I also lined this skirt, and in a sheer fabric like this it’s best to French seam the lining too. I trimmed the zip opening seam allowances of the lining skirt before turing under and hand-stitching them invisibly to the zip tape.
Thanks for taking the time to show this – I've done it before through trial and error as usually try to avoid it. But your explanation is very clear !
Thank you for this! It's something I've puzzled over a few times and have ended up abandoning the french seam, even though i wanted it in the garment.
Wonderful tutorial! You make it look so easy! This is somewhat off topic, but any suggestions or solutions for an invisible zipper that "bends inwards" at the top of an opening? I sewed a skirt recently and this happened (hadn't happened before) at the top of the waistband. Would love to hear your or anyone else's thoughts.
thank you Madalynne! I'm not sure I know without seeing it for myself; but does the seam curve in at the top? I've found invisible zips don't like a curved seam and may form a kind of hump on the curve. Those thick, closely spaced zip teeth prefer to sit nice and flat, in a straight seam. Or, if the fabric is either thin or stretchy it might need stabilising, with a strip of interfacing or selvedge. 🙂
Thank you Carolyn!
Thank you for the great tutorial!! I am marking this for later use 🙂
Wow, I bow to thee, topological goddess.
Carolyn, is that the regular presser foot on your machine or did you use a different foot?
Julie; it's just a regular all-purpose presser foot.
Thank you for a wonderfully easy to understand and precise tutorial on a very vexing problem.
You are such a brilliant sewist. I get anxious just looking at these instructions, envisioning broken fabrics and lives all over the place were I to attempt such a delicate procedure.
Me too! I get so anxious reading these instructions I want to abandon sewing altogether
Thanks Carolyn- one question, did you use a standard 5/8 seam allowance or do you give yourself a little more room with this technique? Cheers! 🙂
I just stick with cutting the usual 1.5cm or 5/8" seam allowance. And actually, as can be seen in one of my photos above, I go with the RH edge of my presser foot to gauge stitching the narrow seams. It is the perfect width, as well as being a very easy way to follow a nice even seam width.
Wow, serious props to you! I rarely use invisible zippers, but this is quite impressive!
Thank you for this tutorial! That is a something which I usually avoid because I am not too sure if I'm doing right. You do it beautifully.
Thank you so much, Now my seams can all be French Seamed, I couldn't work it out so thank you again.
As usual, you make everything so clear. What a wonderful way to do a french seam with an invisible zip. I'll have to remember your technique next time I need to do this.
Looks very similar to the technique I use, thank you for the reassurance 🙂
Thanks for this tutorial!
Neat! Thanks 🙂
I love concealed zippers but have not used a French seam with one yet. I will certainly try now you have shown how to do it so well. Thank you Carolyn!
Thanks for a great tutorial! I've done this many times, but not quite as neatly as you show here. I sewed the French seam first, stopping about 2 inches below the zipper opening, then inserted the invisible zipper as usual, and then was puzzled about how to neatly secure the transition zone. I did a bit of hand stitching, but there were still some raw edges hanging out. I'll have to try your method next time, thanks!
Great post Carolyn! I was quite chuffed to see that my method matches yours – I trust your expertise much more than my own!!
Ooo am going to use this. Trying to acquire as many new skills as possible.
Hi, Really great effort. Everyone must read this article. Thanks for sharing.
Great tutorial. Thank you Carolyn!
Thank you for this tutorial!
I love this thank you!!!!!
thank you for sharing this very helpful