Monthly Archives: April 2018

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soap!!

So, I actually bought a book called how to make your own soap about a year ago, took it home all full of enthusiasm, only to fizzle out once I realised that a lot of the recipes were full of rather hard-to-locate ingredients *sad trombone*  I did enjoy looking at the pretty pictures though and dreaming a bit, not much else, kept on buying soap from the supermarket, blah blah blah…  Fast forward to a few days ago, and I saw on ig a simply beautiful picture of castile soap Marilla had just made, and she mentioned how simple it was, only olive oil, water and sodium hydroxide!  well that, I could manage!!  I was inspired!  Enthusiasm reignited!  Immediately dove straight in; googled the youtube video she recommended, picked up the NaOH next time I went out.  NaOH, aka caustic soda, aka lye, can be found in Bunnings in the heavy duty cleaner section.

Watching that youtube video, of course there were links to about a million other, soap-making videos, so I watched another, and another, fell down a bit of a rabbit-hole… who knew there were so many soap-making you-tubers???  Several of them prone to snarking on each other in the comments section, haha… but that’s another story!  I did a bit of googling, and found some more simple recipes that also called for ingredients I could easily buy.  By the way, I’m linking to the videos and recipes that gave me the proportions but I’m writing my own recipes here too… why? Several reasons: it’s a little annoying to have to sit through a whole video just to catch that moment when they mention the ingredients and quantities they’re using; secondly because I had to convert everything to metric, which is actually a pain in the neck and I don’t want to have to do it again the next time I want to make soap; and thirdly; I’ve altered some of the quantities to better fit in with a. the quantities of things I can buy here and b. for next time what I think is going to make a decent and manageable quantity of soap.

I made three types of soaps, pictured above from left:  Castile, or pure olive oil soap, pure coconut soap, and buttermilk soap.  I bought all the ingredients from the supermarket apart from the NaOH, which I got from Bunnings.  It was lots of fun making soap… and far easier than I thought!  🙂

Since I’m writing recipes here :  a few very important safety notes on working with NaOH, or caustic soda… long term readers may know that I’m an analytical chemist, and I spent years working with chemicals day in day out, and when you do that you can get a little lackadaisical with the handling of very dangerous chemicals.  But never ever with stuff like NaOH! it is a very strong alkali; highly corrosive and potentially explosive if not handled correctly around, say, water, which you are doing when you’re making soap.  So!

WHEN HANDLING NaOH, ALWAYS WEAR RUBBER GLOVES, PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR AND CLOTHING THAT COMPLETELY COVERS YOUR ARMS.

  • Never let it get into contact with your skin.  When mixing into water, work outside as much as possible so as to avoid inhaling the fumes.  Never under any circumstances put your face over or near the container you are mixing it in.
  • Ensure you are not going to be disturbed for the time you are working with it. Keep all pets and children well away.
  • If you must take your lye solution inside, keep all windows open and work underneath a range hood with the fan on full blast.
  • In the case of spills, clean up with copious amounts of water… i.e. a garden hose if outside.  If you do happen to splash some on your skin, IMMEDIATELY put the affected area underneath a tap, and flush with water running fully over the area for several minutes at least.  If you can see a visible burn or the area continues to sting and burn after copious flushing then seek medical attention immediately.  NaOH is not to be trifled with!

 

Making your lye solution; FOR ALL RECIPES:  When mixing NaOH into water, put the full volume of your cool or cold water into a clean, thick sided, glass container that has no cracks, and can hold at least twice the volume of the water you are working with.  Add the NaOH to the water, a little at a time, stirring with a metal spoon.  You can stir with a wooden spoon, but you may find the solution gets a little  discoloured with tannins from the wood.  NEVER add water to NaOH, ALWAYS ADD NaOH TO WATER.  This is because as NaOH dissolves in water it generates heat and fumes, and is potentially explosive.  If you have trouble remembering which is the correct way to mix the two: when I was at school we learnt this little ditty… and the exact same principle applies to working with a strong alkali like NaOH.

(Picture of a gravestone)

“May her rest be long and placid,
she added water to the acid;
The other girl did as she ought-er,
and added acid to the water”

Substitute alkali for acid, it’s the same situbar.  After the solution mixes clear, it will be quite hot.  Do not seal the container.  Supervise it until it cools before using.

Having said all that, I hope I haven’t unnecessarily scared anyone off! as long as one is careful, knows what is going on with it and has a healthy respect for the dangers, and follows all the above simple and common sense safety rules, you should be fine.  On with the soap-making!

Each recipe should make 18 bars of soap approximately the size pictured, give or take a little

 

Castile, or pure olive oil soap… (rating 4/10)

Based on this recipe

1kg olive oil… I used an extra virgin olive oil… do not know if this makes any difference
280mL water
130g NaOH

See the above safety note for handling and mixing lye.  Outside, carefully add NaOH to the water, a little at a time and stirring.  Let it sit for a few minutes, uncovered and under constant supervision, until jar feels lukewarm and no longer hot, and fumes are no longer visibly emanating from the surface before mixing it into the oil.

Pour NaOH solution all at once into the oil, and commence mixing with the stick mixer not running.  After a few minutes of this, turn the stick mixer on and keep mixing for about 10 minutes or until the mixture becomes visibly “gelatinous” in appearance.

this was my first effort, and got me hooked, it was so easy and quick!  My olive oil was quite a strong green colour, and the mixture looked pretty swampy while I was mixing it, so I was pleasantly surprised at how the colour mellowed and softened into this beautifully soft and creamy, greeny-yellow.  MUCH nicer!!  We have an olive tree, so I snipped a few leaves to decorate my soap bars.

 

My second effort was this rather dreamy Coconut Soap ( 7/10)

based on this recipe

900mL coconut oil
340mL water
125g NaOH

See the above safety note for handling and mixing NaOH.  Leave the solid coconut oil out in the sun, or even sitting in your car or something until it’s completely liquified.  Procedure is otherwise exactly the same as for the castile soap, above.

So, I’ve had a large jar of coconut oil sitting in my pantry for the last ten years or so; we’d bought it for Cassie to make a “beachy waves” hair product that required about 1 tablespoon of the stuff.  The hair product was horrible, made your hair revoltingly greasy, and so the jar has sat untouched in our pantry ever since.  Well guess what?!  *throws a party* finally found a use for it!!!!

Note: I found this mixture gelled more quickly by comparison to the previous mixture, and was a noticeably more solid gel too.   LOVE the heavenly pure white colour… like meringue! and I sprinkled some shredded coconut flakes over the top, just for decoration.  Afterwards I thought I should have stirred some coconut through the mixture before pouring into moulds, it might make a nice exfoliant in the soap.  Next time maybe!

Buttermilk soap  (9/10!)

based on this recipe, though I didn’t watch the video… I’d watched enough videos by this time that I was like… got it!!

240mL buttermilk
800mL regular olive oil.. this one was a much paler yellow in colour, not as green as the variety I used for my castile soap
145g coconut oil
125g NaOH

Pour the buttermilk into ice-cube moulds and freeze.  Once frozen, tip into a glass jar with a capacity of at least 500mL.  Add the NaOH –see the above safety notes – and stir until dissolved.  As the two mix, the heat given off will cause the buttermilk to melt quite quickly.  I guess this is why you freeze it in the first place, so the heat of this reaction doesn’t burn the milk, or cause it to curdle.

In a large separate bowl, mix the oils, and add the buttermilk/NaOH mixture, and proceed just as previously described.

Compare the mixture’s rather strong yellow colour above with the much paler colour it takes on as it sets and dries, below.

Note: I found this mixture took quite a lot longer to reach the “jelly” stage than the previous two recipes.

So that’s it!  For moulding the soaps, I used a silicon, 6 capacity muffin tin and a 20cm x 20cm metal cake tin lined fully with baking paper, and let them sit for 24 hours before removing from moulds and cutting.

the buttermilk mix…

The muffin “tins” were great because the soaps just popped out ready formed and don’t need any further shaping… but I like the more conventionally shaped bars I cut from the slabs of soap too. The soaps need to cure for at least 6 weeks in a non-airtight container before using; I used old cardboard cereal boxes and have stored them up high on my overhead kitchen cabinets so they’re out of the way.

buttermilk soaps

I can hardly wait until they’re ready!  My pouring skills drastically improved with each batch, so my castile soap bars started out a bit messy with blobs of soap slopped up on the sides, a little rough and ready, the coconut soap is still kinda choppy but more attractively so, and my buttermilk soap bars are smooth and silky things of beauty to my eyes!  I’m reeeeally looking forward to when they’ve all finished curing so we can try them out.  According to my reading, if you start using them too early before they’re fully cured, homemade soaps will wash away faster and be used up too quickly, which would be a waste… we don’t want that!

the whole lot…I’m roughly estimating that this might be… maybe, a year’s? supply?  though I’ve never really kept tabs on “how much” soap we use so that’s a pretty wild guess and I’ll have to wait and see.,.

I read that olive oil soaps apparently don’t give as much lather as other oil soaps, again we shall wait and see!

When I’ve tested them all out I’ll come back here and write an update!  Stay tuned!

Update:  so I’ve rated the soaps up there…. clearly my favourite is the Buttermilk soap, with a rating of 9/10… I love this soap! silky smooth and beautiful to use, and a lovely very soft, unobnoxious fragrance.

The Coconut soap I’m giving a good solid 7/10; although it  has quite a hard texture I don’t mind this too much in a soap, but I am deducting a few points just for that. It has a nice, very subtle fragrance, and coconut is one of my favourite fragrances.

The Castile, or pure Olive Soap is sadly my least favourite of the bunch, it turned sloppy in the soap dish quite quickly and actually dissolved very quickly too.  I’m not ruling out that I made some boo-boo while making it, it was my first go at soap-making after all! but all the same, I think I just prefer the others…   4/10

The other soaps I’ve made, Macadamia  (7/10) and Avocado (5/10) are blogged here.

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metallic silk damask skirt


With less than 24 hours remaining until Tim and Kelly’s engagement party, I suddenly realised I really wanted to wear my new skirt.  Only problem was, the new skirt was at that moment a flat, albeit lovely, piece of fabric with as yet unrealised dreams and mere aspirations to being a skirt.  A potential skirt!

The fabric is really beautiful…  Cassie and I had seen it in Fabulous Fabrics and mutually admired it… then she secretly took it up to the counter and bought a length of it for me for Christmas.  Aah, my daughter is the most thoughtful sneaky fabric buyer, ever!  I couldn’t have chosen better myself  🙂 It’s a metallic silk damask; in the loveliest sunset-over-the-ocean shades of coral pink, gold, metallic gold, navy blue and charcoal, and I absolutely love the slight wonkiness of the stripes! although it did make stripe matching a tiny bit of a challenge.  I managed it, but!

I used an old favourite Vogue 8363, modified quite a lot as usual   This is a hall-of-fame pattern for me, despite the fact that I’m pretty sure I’ve ever made anything faithfully to the pattern, ever! but I’m totally ok with that.  It’s got great bones and that’s enough.

My nearly-always modification is to cut one of the fronts of the pocketed view on the fold, and the back piece with an added seam allowance to the centre back so as to incorporate a zip, and insert the waistband so as to have corresponding closure at the centre back.  Also, the shape is ever so slightly pegged, which I did not want for this skirt; so I cut the side seams to be straight below the hips.

Some other mods; well, I point them all out in my video below, but it is a non-speaking video, pretty boring maybe, sorry, because I’m just so awful at speaking, every time I started I’m immediately tongue tied… so I just didn’t.  Maybe I’ll get better at this and next time actually speak.  However, for those who like The Deets, they are, in the order shown:

  1. I wanted for the skirt front to be unimpeded by the visual distraction of a dart, but at least one dart and/or pleat is actually necessary in this design for a good fit and so you can shove your hands down deep into those pockets without distorting the shape of the skirt…  I moved the dart right over to adjacent to the pocket opening.  Actually, I fiddled with darts and pleats SO MANY times over, this final arrangement was probably  attempt number six, at least, but fortunately I am satisfied with this arrangement, at last!  Pleats looked absolutely dreadful… “boinging” out over my tummy in a most unflattering way, but the single discreetly placed dart looks nice. It gives a nice flat front to the skirt, visually almost dart-less, while allowing the room for your hands when shoved in the pockets.  Oh, please notice the perfect print placement on the pockets, as well as all the other seams too.
  2. I kept the double darts on the skirt backs, and put my deep forest green invisible zip in the centre back opening.  The skirt closes at the waistband with a bar hook and eye.
  3. I added a navy blue polyacetate lining, cut using another old favourite Vogue 1247, and folding the darts in pleats rather than sewing them down.  Zip and lining were both from my stash.  I attached the lining to the zip tape by hand, and staystitched and cut the lining in a square “box” at the lower end… I’ve written before how I’ve found this has practically eliminated the lining ripping at the lower edge of the zip, something that used to happen a lot with my skirts until I figured out why.
  4. The silk damask frays with all the speed of a raging bushfire, so first thing after cutting I hastily finished all the raw cut edges on my overlocker, using navy blue overlocking thread.  I didn’t have enough of the silk to cut the pockets in one piece and still have the print matching at the waist, where the print shows in the pocket opening, so I pieced the pockets to have a self-fabric facing, and the rest is in the lining fabric.

Oh, the party? did I hear you ask? thank you for asking!  Yes, so Tim and Kelly are engaged and we hosted a party for them last night.  I cannot take any credit for a great evening though, since it turns out that Kelly is a Party Organiser Extraordinaire, and we had the most beautifully styled and decorated party I think this house has ever seen! and Kelly made the most spectacular cake imaginable.  And look at this!

This has 150 balloons in it…!  and is the brainchild of Kelly, and the combined handiwork of Kelly, Cassie, their friend Georgia and myself.  We had great fun, and I feel so lucky that I’m the one who gets to enjoy it in my house!!

I’ve shared the below picture on instagram back in February, but have just realised I haven’t put it here yet, this was The Moment!  it’s been such an exciting time for our family and we are sooooo thrilled for our darling Tim to have such a lovely lady as Kelly in his life.  No doubt I will be sharing lots of wedding attire spam both here as well as on IG pretty soon…. fair warning!

I was pretty confident I’d have time to get a nice picture of my new skirt, and whole outfit at the party last night … BWAHAHAHAHAHAAAAA! oh dear, *wipes tears of mirth from eyes*  obviously when one is hosting a party you’re flat chat … we took precisely zero photos during the party!  Kelly has already contacted me, asking if I took any, so we’re planning a little post-photoshoot of the two of them with the still beautiful balloon arch.  But I’m totally happy, still on a successful party high; we had an absolutely fantastic time, and I’ve spent most of today cleaning the house and it is delightfully spick and span again.  SO I’m even more happy!  Craig wore this shirt, Cassie wore this dress.  And this is what I wore!

    

Outfit details:

Skirt; Vogue 8363, heavily modified, silk damask, Vogue 1247 for the lining
Shirt; Burda 7767, white linen… originally made for Craig, it still lives on his side of the wardrobe but I tend to be the one wearing it nowadays!  details here
Shoes; Zomp, from Zomp boutique

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10×10 challenge, autumn

Sooo, I took part in the 10×10 challenge again!  #gluttonforpunishment  No really, I actually do enjoy doing this a lot, even if I get a little bit tired of my chosen pieces by the end of it.  I like the capsule aspect of it, and let’s face it; a wardrobe challenge is always gonna suck me right into its gaping maw.  Really, it’s just a fun little diversion in the scheme of things.  The fact that this one’s only ten days long makes it quite manageable and painless.  I mean, this is coming from someone who voluntarily subjects themselves to quite strict, year-long wardrobe challenges, so you know, we all set a different bar.

So, the scenario; you pick ten items of clothing, which you will wear over the next ten days.  You are allowed to freely add accessories like hats, scarves, gloves, bags, jewellery and tights, as needed.

My selection… two dresses, and three tops, three skirts, two pairs of shoes; a pretty easy-to-mix-up arrangement.  I made everything except for those blue thongs…

from L to R, all items are linked back to their original construction post; the number in brackets is the number of times each thing got worn during the challenge.

  1.  white linen Hunter tank, pattern by Jennifer Lauren Handmade … (2)
  2. navy chambray top, our own Perth blouse pattern … (4)
  3. apricot top, design variation on a pattern from She Wears the Pants … (2)
  4. black/white striped skirt, V1247 … (2)
  5. ivory skirt, V1247 … (2)
  6. red floral skirt, V2894 … (2)
  7. denim dress, V1316 … (2)
  8. pink/navy dress, V1351 … (2)
  9. my handmade clogs … (5)
  10. blue Roxy thongs …(5)

the outfits:

Thoughts?

No stunning new insights I’m afraid.  I’d initially chosen my little hand-knitted teal Audrey-in-Unst cardigan, which I thought toned in quite nicely with all my other things, but the weather turned out to be so muggy and humid!  Rapidly realised that cardi was never going to get worn … a giant waste of valuable 10×10 real estate!  Moral of the story, check the weather forecast!  so I swapped it out for my loose and breezy red floral skirt.  Which was an absolute delight to wear.  Man, I love that thing.  A surprise hit was my navy blue Perth blouse.  I basically whipped that thing up just to test my pattern… and I’m enjoying it so much!  I did like it as soon as I’d made it but am only just starting to appreciate its versatility and how nice it is to wear.  My two favourite outfits for the challenge were the navy blouse with my red floral skirt, and the same blouse over my navy/pink dress… loved wearing both of those outfits and I just cannot choose between the two.

Though, of course I liked all my outfits… all these things are pieces that I love to wear, which is why I chose them, obviously.  One thing I’m getting from these 10×10 challenges is that I feel like I’m really making clothes and shoes for myself that I LOVE, that I’m comfortable in now, and my things GO together just how I like them to.  This is a very reassuring thing.

Will I be doing the next 10×10 challenge, which is officially the summer one, but for me will be a winter one? yes I think so.  I think the winter one is probably the most difficult one; I mean when the weather’s warm, it’s easy, because you can just throw on a frock and your shoes; two pieces and you’re good to go.  In winter, you really need the layers just for warmth.   I’m imagining piling on the same ten things day in day out.  Or maybe you can avoid that? be more creative, if you’re clever with the choices?  Hmmm, the challenge of it… I can feel myself getting excited for it already!

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skylines shirt for Craig

So, I’d bought 4m of the skylines fabric from tessuti’s… remember I mentioned my early plans were graaaaand? anyway my dress only took up about half, even with all the fabric-hogging pattern matching, so I had a nice chunk leftover.  Just enough for a shirt for Craig!

I used my current go-to mens’ shirt pattern, Burda 6874, with his usual fitting alterations.  Of course I still pattern matched all over the shop, but other than that the shirt is a pretty simple one, with very little in the way of fanciful details.  I only had enough fabric for a short-sleeved shirt but that’s ok.  It’s very summery fabric after all.

features:

  • a little button tab on the sleeve ends.  There is a real little buttonhole underneath the button, because I do not like fake details, however it’s not really ever meant to be undone
  • the bias cut thing underneath the side seams is part of the pattern…  I really love this very easy and simple little feature

  • bias cut front button band and pocket.  I spaced the buttonholes so they sit neatly and evenly in the ivory rectangle along the buttonband

 

breakfast burrito shirt!!

He seemed rather touched and pleased that I made a shirt for no reason in particular! I mean, not a birthday or Christmas.  This made me feel a little guilty… do I really make things for him that infrequently?

Food for thought.  Well, enough chit-chat… I’m off to make something NOT plaid now!

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Easter eggs

I made a batch of these yummy things a few years ago, following a recipe on The Londoner, and they were such a hit with my family and friends that I made them again for this year! except this time I adapted the recipe so as to:

a. neatly dovetail in with the quantities of ingredients that you can buy here in Aus,

b. up the citrus tang, to better suit our palate, and

c. give the ginormous quantities that my family can put away in a sitting… these are super yummy and a wee bit addictive!

Cheesecake Easter Eggs

3 x 250g cartons of hollow chocolate eggs, the ones that have 15 eggs in each carton

for the lemon-y “egg white” filling:

500g cream cheese
1 cup icing sugar
juice of 2 small lemons + 1 lime
300mL whipping cream

Beat the cream cheese and icing sugar together until soft and fluffy, add juice.  Whip cream separately until stiff, and fold into the cream cheese mixture.  Gently chip a little bit off the top of each chocolate easter egg and use a skinny teaspoon to spoon the filling into each egg,pushing it down so as to fill completely.  This quantity of filling should fill all 45 eggs nicely.  As you fill, sit each egg into an empty egg carton and put in the fridge to set.

for the passionfruit “egg yolk” filling:

170g can passionfruit pulp, or 5 passionfruit
1 tsp butter
1 tsp gelatine

Strain the passionfruit pulp into a ceramic bowl, put the dab of butter on top and sprinkle the gelatine over in a layer.  Heat in a microwave, 20 seconds at a time, stirring thoroughly after each zap, until the mixture is almost hot, and blended well.  Leave to cool slightly.

Take the chocolate eggs and scoop out a depression, dribble a little bit of passionfruit filling into each egg.  Put back into the fridge until set.

Eat!

Happy Easter everyone!

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