Tag Archives: Butterick 4657

Red Emperor, or Catch of the Day

The theme for this year’s Amanda Young Foundation Ball was “Nautical, but Nice”  
(If you have time, click on the link and view the information video on meningococcal disease.  Having this knowledge could save a life…)
As usual I had about a zillion ideas for a dress.  Was so so sorely tempted to make a completely brand new gown.  In fact originally I had every intention of making a whole new ballgown for this event.  This was a very enticing thought, there’s nothing I like more than delving into the glamour of the eveningwear section of the fabric store…  but I confess not an very eco friendly option really (sigh)  After much enjoyable fantasising about such nautical fabulousness as mermaid-like dresses or dresses looking like a breaking ocean wave (I had visions of a turquoise sheath, with a frothy white lower skirt section to represent the surf), eventually I directed my thoughts to my collection of evening gowns already sitting in my wardrobe, and working with something I already had.  Last year’s gown had possibilities; this is what it looked like last year…
I decided to re-work this gown and be a Red Emperor, as in, the fish…hehe.  In the end, of course, the gown was almost completely re-constructed and is pretty much a new dress.  
I removed the red velvet bodice and silk midriff section, and made a new red silk skirt to go over the old lining/petticoat with its attached grand silk flounce around the bottom.  Then re-attached the midriff and bodice.  I thought this would be OK, but unfortunately the red velvet just looked wrong on top of the dress, otherwise composed entirely of red silk. So I unpicked that off of the midriff section and away from the zip, un-picked and kept the red velvet ribbon shoulder straps to re-use, and made a new bodice, out of the pieces of red silk left over from cutting out the new skirt.  
All the un-picking and re-sewing together of seams took ages, about five days.  All the skirt sections are hand-hemmed, and I estimated there is between five and six metres of hem altogether in this dress.  (Later edit; I just measured, 8.5m!)  Luckily, I already done the lower skirt and petticoat last year….!
The new parts are: the wrap-over upper skirt and the bodice.  The old, re-used parts of the dress are: the lining/petticoat with the lower silk flounce, the midriff section, the velvet ribbon shoulder straps, and the invisible zip.  Yes, I re-used the ZIP!  I think I’m most proud of that part of the whole she-bang, silly as it sounds. 
If you look really closely enough, under a strong light, you can see that the lower flounce and the midriff section are a different shade of red than the upper skirt and the bodice…  from floor up the fabrics sections are old, new, old, new but meh.  I think they are close enough to be good enough.  Also the different shades are divided up over the dress, so it still looks OK.
So when I had finally finished, I had a kinda new red dress that I am completely thrilled with, even more than last year’s version I think!
But even though it was “red” and sort of “royal”, fitting in with my plan to be a Red Emperor, it didn’t scream “nautical” by any stretch of the imagination.  So I gathered a few fishy accessories; the fishing net to be my stole, and I also bought a few lures and a bit of fishing cord from the fishing store to make some jewellery.
So sufficiently nautical, yes?
And when I came out to show the children my costume and asked them what they thought I was, Sam immediately said, “the catch of the day?”  
And I wondered if that was a better title than my Red Emperor idea…

Details:
Dress; based on Butterick 4657, petticoat and lower skirt of my own design.  Originally looked like this, and my other dress using this same pattern here
Gloves; Vogue 7949, red jersey knit, my review of this pattern here
Stole; fishing net
Jewellery; made by me from fishing lures…
Shoes; Raymond Castle.  These are my oldest shoes, I’ve had them since I was about 19…! 😀

a side view…

a back view…
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Rosetta ball gown, yet another picture…

I found this picture, a partial view of the back of the dress.  Thanks Lily for pointing that out!  And I thought I’d covered all angles…  Now I’m back in the laundry sewing room working on my stash.  Top secret project in the pipeline…
We had a wonderful time at the ball.  I’m a little sad it’s a whole year until the next one.
Details:
the same as in the post below…
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“Rosetta” ball gown

I’m going to take time to mention the cause that we are supporting tonight as it is such an important one; the Amanda Young Foundation.  This non-profit foundation is dedicated to raising awareness of meningococcal disease, to raising funds to research for a vaccine, and to educating people to recognise the symptoms and to be aware of the need for the immediate medical attention that it requires.  If you don’t know much about meningococcal disease then please take a few minutes to view the Amanda Young Foundation site.  Informing yourself as to the nature of this terribly swift and deadly disease could save the life of someone you know.

Now for the debut of my “Rosetta” dress, name thought up by my son…  
(Sorry for multiple photos, but I’m trying to show all angles)

Details:
Dress; mostly my own design with some elements of Butterick 4657 and Simplicity 9775, red velvet, red shot silk taffeta and ivory/black printed polyester
Earrings; Sophie Kyron
Shoes; Nina, from David Jones

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Anatomy of a ball dress, pt 4

Husband sadly working all this long weekend so I’m planning to get a lot done on my ball-gown.  Following is today’s effort…
Cut out the skirt pieces, sewed side seams, inserted the zip into the centre back.  This sounds simple, but this is the point at which I thought I would break down and cry.  Here’s what happened.  In good seamstress fashion I put a brand spanking new needle into my sewing machine before sewing this fabric.  The side seams and zip went in beautifully.  Then, without even thinking, I put the seams through the overlocker to finish the edges.  Hadn’t changed the overlocker needles!  Doh!  Now there are tiny thread-pull marks along the seams, that weren’t there before, thanks to the obviously blunt needles in the overlocker.  It was a real oh-no! moment.  There may or may not have been some bad language.  Note to self; overlocker needles are needles too, you know.  They’re not going to change themselves.  I’m reassuring myself that probably no one at the ball but me will notice as the pulls are thankfully really tiny, but still… they didn’t even have to be there.  Disappointed!

With right sides together sewed the skirt and its lining together around the bottom edge.  This was done after much experimenting with different hemming techniques on scraps.  I trialled rolled hemming (machine) and rolled hemming (overlocker) on the separate skirt and lining, then overlocker rolled hem on the two fabrics together.  Neither was satisfactory.  So I went with this method, which I think looks smooth and clean.

Trimmed the top to waist level and basted skirts closed.

Adjusted the corset top to the size I want it.  Now, of course I originally used a version of Simplicity 9775 to help me cut this, although this is really a junior pattern and I still had to resize and reshape it to me, an adult woman size.  And now its been altered and butchered even further.  My point is this; can I really say this corset has been made using this pattern any more?  The pattern pieces actually now bear no relation to any of the pattern pieces in the envelope.  I often face this dilemma when citing pattern numbers in this blog, as my final garment is rarely exactly made up to the pattern, which I consider a starting point only.  Anyone wishing to create something similar to my garments is going to have to bear this in mind when buying these patterns I’ve referenced.  This is why I add the disclaimer, “own design” in the details of an outfit.  Just saying.

Getting back to events; corset boning.  Everyone knows to snip the edges of their boning into nicely rounded curves, right?  To avoid nasty scratching from one’s own ball gown during your evening, this is a must do…  Incidentally, this plastic boning is the only type I’ve ever seen, although I’ve now heard of steel boning I’ve never seen it anywhere.  I think that’s because of living in sleepy lil’ ol’ Perth… 

The next step will be to drape some fashion fabric attractively and chic-ly across the bodice, and I’m hoping to achieve some sort of wow factor here.  This may or may not be my final outcome.  Stay tuned to find out…

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Anatomy of a ball dress, pt 3

OK.  This may not look like a lot of progress has been made, but it’s taken time nonetheless.
Firstly, the shot silk taffeta petticoat has been hemmed, by hand…

And the lining of the petticoat has been hemmed, by machine…

Then, since blogging about sewing machines and stuff recently I made time today to service my sewing machine …. (no picture, boring technical stuff)
Have cut out the lining of the overskirt, fitted it to myself, basted together…

And made two lining versions of the corset top, using Simplicity 9775, also fitted to me.

Doesn’t look very exciting I admit, but once I start adding the fashion fabric to the lining it will start to look like it’s on the home stretch.

Oh, the fashion parade last night?  With my usual lack of loquaciousness…. wow.  
No, just kidding, I was overwhelmed by the excitingness and interestingness of it all but I’ll try to remember enough to give a bit of an overview…  Of course now I feel like my wardrobe is oh-so boring and I now want to concentrate on making more interesting stuff to complement it…
I wish I could have taken pictures, but I’ve located some of the garments we saw last night on www.style.com
My favourite portion was the Comme des Garcons garments; all khaki and air force blue, and interesting shapes like… Hmm imagine a sort of de-structured, military nun, and you’re getting some idea.  Jackets like frankensteined trench coats, with mismatched fabric sleeves and random asymmetrical capelets,  BIG midcalf pleated skirts; I laughed with my friend R that my old school uniform skirt was a big pleated navy blue skirt just like the ones we saw and we teenage girls refused to wear it, but instead opted for the tight pencil skirt a la Grease.  Well, (shamefaced) it was the 80’s…  If only I’d known I would have hung on to my old school skirt, it would be tres chic for this season!!
There were also some interesting light grey wool dresses with overlays of apricot pink chiffon, like the lining was on the outside of the dress.  Formfitting, straight skirts below the knee; quite dreamy and pretty and so interesting (at right, Comme des Garcons, Fall 2009, from www.style.com).
There were also some “boyfriend” jackets in charcoal grey flannel that looked cosy and very wearable, slimline pants in khaki, air force blue and “greige”.  I secretly congratulated myself I already have some greige gabardine sitting in my stash that I’m planning some winter pants for…
For spring Isabel Marant offered some lovely formfitting short lacy dresses, with navy and white striped nipped-in blazers; a look I’m planning to file away for spring…
The Marc Jacobs look I liked the best was the trench coat (woah!! I’m halfway there) belted over tartan/check chiffon dresses; the dresses were a little froufrou for my taste but I liked the tartan idea…
The Alexander McQueen dresses were very lovely.  The parade I’d viewed on style.com had big stiffly structured dresses from vaguely skeletal aquatic reptilian printed fabrics that I thought were interesting but not particularly wearable; the versions that we saw last night used the same prints on soft jersey fabric, made up into very simply constructed short T-shirt dresses.  Really lovely; unfussy beach-chic and perfect for the Australian lifestyle.
I noticed a simply stunning necklace that I may have a go at a DIY at some stage; a multi-stranded pearl and diamante necklace with a BIG diamante pendant…
Some of the colour combinations I liked; obviously the khaki and air force blue was my favourite and one I’ll be using for sure, but this winter I also will be experimenting with hot pink paired with charcoal grey; and mustard yellow with charcoal and light grey; forest green and teal blue; and light grey paired with big gold jewellery…
Photos below, left from Marc Jacobs spring/summer 09, centre from Alexander McQueen spring/summer 10.  Imagine this McQueen print in a simple little T-shirt dress with cap sleeves, and that is what we saw…, and at right from Comme des Garcons fall 09, interesting details and mix of fabrics in this coat

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Anatomy of a ball dress, pt 2

I apologise for the lack of progress pictures on this dress.  Pretty much I’ve had heaps of work and errands to catch up on, and am restricted to sewing in a more limited amount of spare time than I’m used to.  I hope I get it finished!!  No, I’m kidding, this dress will get finished, even if the pictures become a bit sporadic over the next week…
Oh, and thankyou everyone who commented positively on my petticoat in its early stages!  It’s so nice to receive lovely supportive comments, I’m very grateful for each and every one of them, you are all wonderfully kind people… Thankyou all so much!
So last night I finished draping the flounce to my satisfaction, folded down 1cm under the top edge and sewed it onto the petticoat with a double line of stitching.

I then inserted the zip and finished the centre back seam.  Haven’t put in a hook and eye as yet, doh!!
(Apologies for the poor quality of the following pictures.  I took these this evening and it’s too dark for outside photos…)

I handfinished the lining inside the petticoat, yes, my now well-documented obsession with having a nice looking inside; here is a photo of the inside of the bodice

And the petticoat so far.  I have to model it myself from now on because as I’ve blogged about previously, as wonderful a model as Bessie is she is bigger than me and so once the zip has gone in I can no longer do it up on her… 

The next step will be to hand hem the petticoat, which I will do in front of the idiot box tonight… stay tuned…

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Anatomy of a ball dress, pt 1

I’ve made a start on my ball dress.  Although I was a bit late to get started on it I’m making up for lost time now.  Yesterday I did more sewing on my daughter’s dress than I did on my own!!  And I think I’m spending way too much time on the internet, particularly my new favourite site, Po___re, yes, you know the one.  It’s way too addictive, and I’m setting a new rule for myself that I will only go on once a week from now on.  I’ve got lots of other things I prefer to do with my time, and more constructive things too, sewing being one of them.  So back to this dress!
Typically for me, I launched straight into this project and neglected to take any photos at first…  For the red petticoat component I’m using a pattern that has worked successfully for me before; Butterick 4657, with a few modifications I’ll address here as I get to them.  
I started by constructing the “velvet bra” part of the bodice.  Immediately I ran into a few challenges.  Let me outline the challenges in this part of the exercise for you:
1. The outer shell of the upper bodice is of velvet
2.  I’m working with velvet here
3.  I’m lining the bodice with some leftover silk taffeta, which frays like nobody’s business
4.  I’m working with velvet
I’d forgotten what a pain in the derriere velvet is to work with.  I’ve made things from velvet before and its thick pile makes it “flatten” first one way and then another, and makes for a very difficult seaming process if you don’t pin and baste very carefully.  I also started out with a small boo-boo, I initially sewed an easing line between the small dots on one of the bodice side fronts, rather than the front as I should have and tried unsuccessfully to sew them together with the ease stitching on the wrong piece before realising my mistake…  this completely ruined these two pieces.  As anyone who has worked with velvet knows, you just cannot unpick stitching successfully with this stuff, the fabric is too fragile and the pile is marked forever once stitched on.   With velvet it’s essential to get your stitching right first time, or else prepare yourself to cut out some new pieces.  Luckily I had bought 30cm, leaving me enough leftover to cut out a new side front and front… just.  
I’m not making the sleeves of this pattern, but using some matching velvet ribbon for thin shoulder straps… so here is the upper bodice front constructed.  At right is the inside of the same, I’m lining with silk taffeta rather than lining fabric because I’ve got enough leftover from my planned skirt frill/flounce to cut out these pieces… and I believe in waste not,want not, even in fabric… notice the mad fraying going on at the bottom there?  sheesh..

This is how I’m modifying the upper back piece; because my gown has thin shoulder straps, I cut the piece off at the upper edge of the dart as shown here…  at left is the pattern piece and at right is the piece as I cut it, without the upper half.  Because I was cutting at this point I was able to fold the dart on the paper pattern piece to eliminate it before cutting the fabric piece…  If you have the opportunity to eliminate a pesky little seam like a dart when working with a bulky fabric like velvet its a good idea to do so!

Then I measured the ribbon straps to fit me (By the way, even though I’m not mentioning it I am constantly fitting these pieces to myself and making appropriate fitting adjustments at each stage here.  You’ll thank me for sparing you photos of any of this fitting; me in a semi-attired state? No.)  I would have dearly loved to have some of those strap length modifier thingies like you get on lingerie for the straps, but they didn’t come in a matching colour, which is the only way they would be acceptable to me on an evening gown.  I contemplated painting some with nail varnish for a few seconds… but decided that would be too tacky!

And completed the upper backs, and attached them to the upper fronts at the side seams…  (Small detail: its been pinned here with the wrong front lapping over, but I got it right when I sewed it, so no biggie!) 

I then attached the middle fronts and backs, and then the lining version of these on the inside (not shown)  Why am I lining the bodice of a petticoat?  I honestly don’t know.  Blame it on my obsession that the inside of my finished garment look as good as the outside…

Here are the petticoat skirts joined together…  The raw seam edges have been overlocked to finish.

And now I’ve attached the petticoat skirt to the middle bodice.  At this stage the zip has not been inserted and the skirt is left long, longer than it will eventually be.  The next stage will be to add the silk taffeta frill/flounce I’m planning to go on this skirt.  In my planned final version of the dress; the velvet upper bodice and the planned silk taffeta frill/flounce will be the only visible parts of the petticoat.  

Stay tuned, more on this project in a couple of days…

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Paint spattered ball gown

Since I mentioned my paint spattered ball gown yesterday, I thought I’d post pictures of it today, plus a picture of the dress that inspired me, to allay suspicions of “copying”.  (And just to clear up any misunderstandings, I am not a professional designer by any stretch of the imagination; I’m strictly an amateur who only sews for myself, and definitely not for money but for the love of it!)  And, new confession, I could have sworn my inspiration was a Dior gown, but I dug out my old Vogue magazine to check and it was actually a Dolce and Gabbana, so I’ll have to go back and correct yesterdays’ post…
So here is my gown….
There is a story behind the gown… the theme for the ball was “Happily Ever After”, so peoples’ costumes ran to fairy tales and nursery rhymes etc.  I wanted to do something a bit different as usual… In our marriage we have renovated several houses, and I have myself to date painted the interiors of a total of three houses now, top to bottom, so am pretty sick of house painting…  So for my “happily ever after” I’m dreaming of a world with the house finally painted and finished!!  What looks like a cigarette holder in my hand is actually a paint-brush, continuing the theme…
I used Butterick 4657, but altered the length to be a full length gown, and eliminated the sleeves and substituted the thinnest black satin ribbon straps I could find.  I laid out five metres of off-white satin on our lawn and literally spattered slightly thinned fabric paint (from Spotlight) directly onto the fabric and let it dry in the sun…then made the dress.  The separate petticoat is multi-layered black bridal tulle with triangular inserts sewn in around the bottom to get the puffiness required.
I hope I get another opportunity to wear this gown, it was a hit on the night and we laughed at my “happily ever after” as it was so relevant in our lives at the time…!

Details:
Gown; Butterick 4657 with minor variations, paint spattered satin
Petticoat; black bridal tulle, own design
Gloves; Dents, from David Jones
Shoes; Nina, from David Jones

Photos at left from Dolce and Gabbana, SpringRTW, 2008
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