Tag Archives: Evening Wear

Red Emperor, or Catch of the Day

The theme for this year’s Amanda Young Foundation Ball was “Nautical, but Nice”  
(If you have time, click on the link and view the information video on meningococcal disease.  Having this knowledge could save a life…)
As usual I had about a zillion ideas for a dress.  Was so so sorely tempted to make a completely brand new gown.  In fact originally I had every intention of making a whole new ballgown for this event.  This was a very enticing thought, there’s nothing I like more than delving into the glamour of the eveningwear section of the fabric store…  but I confess not an very eco friendly option really (sigh)  After much enjoyable fantasising about such nautical fabulousness as mermaid-like dresses or dresses looking like a breaking ocean wave (I had visions of a turquoise sheath, with a frothy white lower skirt section to represent the surf), eventually I directed my thoughts to my collection of evening gowns already sitting in my wardrobe, and working with something I already had.  Last year’s gown had possibilities; this is what it looked like last year…
I decided to re-work this gown and be a Red Emperor, as in, the fish…hehe.  In the end, of course, the gown was almost completely re-constructed and is pretty much a new dress.  
I removed the red velvet bodice and silk midriff section, and made a new red silk skirt to go over the old lining/petticoat with its attached grand silk flounce around the bottom.  Then re-attached the midriff and bodice.  I thought this would be OK, but unfortunately the red velvet just looked wrong on top of the dress, otherwise composed entirely of red silk. So I unpicked that off of the midriff section and away from the zip, un-picked and kept the red velvet ribbon shoulder straps to re-use, and made a new bodice, out of the pieces of red silk left over from cutting out the new skirt.  
All the un-picking and re-sewing together of seams took ages, about five days.  All the skirt sections are hand-hemmed, and I estimated there is between five and six metres of hem altogether in this dress.  (Later edit; I just measured, 8.5m!)  Luckily, I already done the lower skirt and petticoat last year….!
The new parts are: the wrap-over upper skirt and the bodice.  The old, re-used parts of the dress are: the lining/petticoat with the lower silk flounce, the midriff section, the velvet ribbon shoulder straps, and the invisible zip.  Yes, I re-used the ZIP!  I think I’m most proud of that part of the whole she-bang, silly as it sounds. 
If you look really closely enough, under a strong light, you can see that the lower flounce and the midriff section are a different shade of red than the upper skirt and the bodice…  from floor up the fabrics sections are old, new, old, new but meh.  I think they are close enough to be good enough.  Also the different shades are divided up over the dress, so it still looks OK.
So when I had finally finished, I had a kinda new red dress that I am completely thrilled with, even more than last year’s version I think!
But even though it was “red” and sort of “royal”, fitting in with my plan to be a Red Emperor, it didn’t scream “nautical” by any stretch of the imagination.  So I gathered a few fishy accessories; the fishing net to be my stole, and I also bought a few lures and a bit of fishing cord from the fishing store to make some jewellery.
So sufficiently nautical, yes?
And when I came out to show the children my costume and asked them what they thought I was, Sam immediately said, “the catch of the day?”  
And I wondered if that was a better title than my Red Emperor idea…

Details:
Dress; based on Butterick 4657, petticoat and lower skirt of my own design.  Originally looked like this, and my other dress using this same pattern here
Gloves; Vogue 7949, red jersey knit, my review of this pattern here
Stole; fishing net
Jewellery; made by me from fishing lures…
Shoes; Raymond Castle.  These are my oldest shoes, I’ve had them since I was about 19…! 😀

a side view…

a back view…
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Grecian ball dress

I made this ball dress in 2004, for a conference function we were attending in the Louvre in Paris, where I couldn’t look underdressed. It was an important event in our calendar and I needed to dress to impress.  Thankfully I think I looked suitably presentable.  I remember being super happy with my dress and the very glamorous Parisian evening.  The dress is still in my wardrobe, so I must still feel good about it!
Since then I have worn this dress to three other balls and about three or four other things, so it is my most worn formal dress.  At the time of its construction, Grecian goddess-y looks were quite fashionable so I was inspired by that trend.  But as it turns out this is quite a classical design that I really do love, so I’m sure I will wear it again in the future too.  On one occasion I made an appropriately styled headpiece and handtorch from cardboard, aluminium foil and gold cellophane and went to a costume ball as the Statue of Liberty, and had my picture snapped for the newspaper as a result.  My picture in the paper is not a common occurrence!  At the mo’ I can’t find a picture of that outfit, but if I do I’ll put it up here…
I made it using Vogue 2480, out of silk satin in two shades, that has additionally a (synthetic?) thread running through it to make it subtly sparkly.  The two colours are oyster white for the underdress, and a coolly subdued sage green for the top part of the dress.  I love the draped design at the left hip, as well the long skirt has a beautifully shaped little train at the back that I think is very flattering.  The only slightly strange thing about the pattern is that as the draping is all on the left side of the dress, the invisible zip closure is on the right side.
So, obviously this is not a daily outfit post, but I had my hair done the other day and I’m not one to let a good hair day go to waste.  I haven’t shown this dress here yet, and I decided the day of a professional ‘do is a good day to do this dress justice.  Plus I’m anticipating Me-Made-March ’11 coming up and a daily outfit post for a whole month… (oh dear) and I don’t want to risk boredom by OD-ing on the daily outfit post thing.  You’ll get enough of that soon enough.  I’m just worried that if the weather doesn’t co-operate (by that I mean cool down just a tad) I will definitely be the most boring participant in this challenge because the same few little sundresses are just going to appear day after day.  I would really like to avoid that scenario.  Let’s face it, the same outfit over and over is… totally not exciting.  

Details:
Dress; Vogue 2480, oyster white and sage green silk satin
Shoes, Nina, from David Jones

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Takes the Bronze

My new cocktail dress…
I’m kind of in love with it.  Wish I could be wearing it all day, if that was in all way appropriate (might attract a few sideways glances in the supermarket, for one)  And as for my work in the office… well the pussycats might appreciate that I went to the effort.  Oh, hey you look great, but really, you shouldn’t have.  Not for us.  Just going to be vying for prime position on your lap as usual, is all…
I did meet some gals for morning tea this morning, but as I was easily the most dressed up (in exactly this outfit, my new favourite since I finished it, and have worn it three times in the last three weeks now) then the new cocktail dress would have been a tad overkill.  Sadly.
The flavour of this design is kinda eighties, I reckon.  The silhouette is reminiscent of the costumes we were treated to on Dynasty; the exaggerated shoulders (and how cool are they?!!!!) the peplum.  The mid-knee length.  The clever designer of this pattern however has taken the essence of that genre and given it a modern little twist.  The asymmetry of the collar treatment.  The jagged uneven teeth on that peplum.  I think that’s why I was drawn to this new design.  Classic shape but with an edgy funky strangeness about it.  A slightly off, not very faithful interpretation of a shape now considered way old hat.

Details:
Dress; Vogue 1155, “antique” silk taffeta
Shoes; Misano, from Labels
Bag; gift from my husband, early on in our marriage

Pattern Description
Semi-fitted, lined, above mid-knee length, fully interfaced dress has princess seams, midriff, peplums, two piece short sleeves, wrap front with buttons, hook and eye closures
Pattern sizing
6-12.  I cut size 10
Did it look like the drawing/illustration on the patten envelope after you had finished sewing it?
yes, except I had added 7.5 cm to the overall length, and ended up overlapping the fronts a bit more to get better coverage
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were clear.  Bear in mind this is an Advanced/Plus Difficile pattern.  There is a rather bewildering instruction in one part; steps 28-31 would have you sew the midriff section to the bodice, then sew the midriff facing at the ends of the midriff only, turn right side out and handsew the top level of the facing on the inside.  (??)  A far better method to complete this part is the traditional way, ie, right sides of the midriff and midriff facing together encasing the bodice, the sew the three layers together in one clean seam.  This is how I did it.
What did you particularly like/dislike about this pattern?
I love the design, and how it looks.  Totally love those sharp out-there shoulders.  It has pockets!  How many evening dresses have pockets? precious few and there should be more…
The shape is a little boxy for my tastes and not as fitted as I would have liked, so I made a few fitting alterations to get a bit more shape into it.  I  also didn’t like how the entire dress was to be interfaced.  Iron on interfacing has it’s rightful place, but for an entire dress?  I don’t think so…
Fabric used:
Silk taffeta, or silk dupion
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The instruction to apply fusible interfacing to every piece gave me pause.  Eventually, because I was using very stiff fabric which has a lot of its own body already, I decided to just interface the facings, as traditionally.  I also interfaced the sleeve cap pleats once sewn in place, as these need to be quite stiff to look good.
I added 7.5cm to all skirt and skirt facing pieces, as I thought the dress looked very short on the pattern photograph.
Step 28-31, sewed the midriff facing and midriff to the bodice in one clean seam, rather than in the piecemeal method outlined in the instructions.
I have a narrow torso, and removed about 3cm width here overall,  graduated around each of the midriff sections. When it came to sewing on the buttons and hook and eye closures it was still a little loose about the midriff and the skirt gaped a little more than was comfortable for me, so I also overlapped the front pieces a little more (another 3cm) than indicated in the instructions.  Overlapping the fronts a bit more gave a better fit for me and made me feel better covered up.
Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?
I might sew it again.  I wouldn’t mind a black version now!  I would recommend this pattern to advanced seamstresses who like garments with an edgy look, as well as a sewing challenge.
Conclusion:
Well, I adore my dress!  Although I reckon this could be categorised as much a coat as a dress.  The construction is just like a lined coat.  And the closure, very coat-like too.  But I feel very modern and sharp in this and am excited about wearing it to special occasions!

Later edit: You WILL need a petticoat or slip with this dress as it gapes considerably when you are seated.  I made one using Burda 8071 in silk satin of the same colour, sitting 2cm shorter than the dress.  It works beautifully.  To see the slip, go here.

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Black, gold and beaded cocktail/ball dress

This is not a new dress (although I have finished my new evening dress and will show it here soon!)  This is an old dress I made about  three years ago, out of lovely matte stiff silk taffeta for the overskirt, very fine black tulle for the underskirt; and the bodice is gold satin with a beautiful beaded, embroidered and sequinned black tulle fabric overlay.  There is black satin ribbon sewed as a decorative detail under the bodice and tied in a little bow, and I also added thin black satin ribbon shoulder straps.  The beaded fabric was very expensive, about $80/metre from memory, so I only bought about 40cm, just enough for the width of the bodice!  There were still some scraps, and the beaded tulle was decorated a little sparse IMO, so I cut out quite a few of the beaded/embroidered motifs from the leftovers and hand-sewed them onto the bodice after it was finished to fill in the gaps and make for a super-luxurious, fully sparkly bodice!    The pattern I used was Burda 8046.  I haven’t checked if this pattern is still available, but I’ll review it anyway…

Details:
Dress; Burda 8046, black silk taffeta, black tulle, gold satin, black beaded/embroidered and sequinned tulle
Sandals; Sachi, bought at some little boutique in Melbourne
Bag; gift from Craig, very early in our marriage

Pattern Description
Close-fitting strapless or halter neck dress with under-bust seam, and bolero jacket.  I made the strapless version of the dress
Pattern sizing
European 32-44 (US 6-18); I initially cut size 38 (12) but ended up adjusting the bodice to be quite a lot narrower.
Did it look like the drawing/photograph on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes, except that I added very thin ribbon shoulder straps to hold it up…!
Were the instruction easy to follow?
very easy
What did you particularly like or dislike about this pattern?
The pattern is fine.  It is very easy to sew up.  I chose it because the shape of the dress fitted the vision I had in my head for this particular dress.  I would have preferred a boned bodice with an internal foundation and waist stay and in retrospect should have constructed the bodice to allow for this…  However I am perfectly happy with the outcome
Fabric used:
Fine black tulle for the underskirt, black silk taffeta for the overskirt.  Gold satin for the bodice and a beaded/embroidered and sequinned black tulle for a bodice overlay.  6mm black satin ribbon sewed on as a decorative division between the bodice and the skirt.  3mm black satin ribbon shoulder straps
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added thin satin ribbon shoulder straps after fearing that bodice wasn’t going to stay up by itself….  They weren’t strictly necessary but I wouldn’t have felt comfortable without them…
Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?
I would definitely recommend this as a very easy strapless dress pattern.  Sews up very quickly.  With added straps, it is perfect.  Without straps… not so much
Conclusion:
I expect the halter neck version of this pattern is the perfect “very easy ball-gown” pattern, perfectly suited to a beginner project.  The strapless version is easy, but as the design is not fitted very firmly at the waist I can imagine one would be constantly hoinking it up without added shoulder straps…  although maybe a larger-busted woman wouldn’t have the same problem.  I do love my dress however and have worn it to at least four or five formal functions with great success.

 

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Rosetta ball gown, yet another picture…

I found this picture, a partial view of the back of the dress.  Thanks Lily for pointing that out!  And I thought I’d covered all angles…  Now I’m back in the laundry sewing room working on my stash.  Top secret project in the pipeline…
We had a wonderful time at the ball.  I’m a little sad it’s a whole year until the next one.
Details:
the same as in the post below…
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“Rosetta” ball gown

I’m going to take time to mention the cause that we are supporting tonight as it is such an important one; the Amanda Young Foundation.  This non-profit foundation is dedicated to raising awareness of meningococcal disease, to raising funds to research for a vaccine, and to educating people to recognise the symptoms and to be aware of the need for the immediate medical attention that it requires.  If you don’t know much about meningococcal disease then please take a few minutes to view the Amanda Young Foundation site.  Informing yourself as to the nature of this terribly swift and deadly disease could save the life of someone you know.

Now for the debut of my “Rosetta” dress, name thought up by my son…  
(Sorry for multiple photos, but I’m trying to show all angles)

Details:
Dress; mostly my own design with some elements of Butterick 4657 and Simplicity 9775, red velvet, red shot silk taffeta and ivory/black printed polyester
Earrings; Sophie Kyron
Shoes; Nina, from David Jones

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Paint spattered ball gown

Since I mentioned my paint spattered ball gown yesterday, I thought I’d post pictures of it today, plus a picture of the dress that inspired me, to allay suspicions of “copying”.  (And just to clear up any misunderstandings, I am not a professional designer by any stretch of the imagination; I’m strictly an amateur who only sews for myself, and definitely not for money but for the love of it!)  And, new confession, I could have sworn my inspiration was a Dior gown, but I dug out my old Vogue magazine to check and it was actually a Dolce and Gabbana, so I’ll have to go back and correct yesterdays’ post…
So here is my gown….
There is a story behind the gown… the theme for the ball was “Happily Ever After”, so peoples’ costumes ran to fairy tales and nursery rhymes etc.  I wanted to do something a bit different as usual… In our marriage we have renovated several houses, and I have myself to date painted the interiors of a total of three houses now, top to bottom, so am pretty sick of house painting…  So for my “happily ever after” I’m dreaming of a world with the house finally painted and finished!!  What looks like a cigarette holder in my hand is actually a paint-brush, continuing the theme…
I used Butterick 4657, but altered the length to be a full length gown, and eliminated the sleeves and substituted the thinnest black satin ribbon straps I could find.  I laid out five metres of off-white satin on our lawn and literally spattered slightly thinned fabric paint (from Spotlight) directly onto the fabric and let it dry in the sun…then made the dress.  The separate petticoat is multi-layered black bridal tulle with triangular inserts sewn in around the bottom to get the puffiness required.
I hope I get another opportunity to wear this gown, it was a hit on the night and we laughed at my “happily ever after” as it was so relevant in our lives at the time…!

Details:
Gown; Butterick 4657 with minor variations, paint spattered satin
Petticoat; black bridal tulle, own design
Gloves; Dents, from David Jones
Shoes; Nina, from David Jones

Photos at left from Dolce and Gabbana, SpringRTW, 2008
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Birthday girl

Today is my daughter’s birthday…. Happy birthday, sweets!  So I really wanted to feature her for today’s post.  Luckily she hasn’t started uni yet and she agreed to pose for me. 
She’s wearing a dress I made about three years ago, inspired again by Vivienne Westwood; this time a cocktail dress featured in her Spring/Summer 2006 collection.  I found a 1m remnant of silk at my favourite fabric store and with a bit of design magic managed to get this dress out of it!  I remember telling a friend about my 1m dress during the making and she inquired whether it was going to be backless, or possibly even frontless! but I think it’s turned out a very demure dress!  I used every last scrap of fabric, and there wasn’t even enough to use for the backing of the belt, I had to use a bit of lining fabric for that purpose.  So I joke that this is my $10 cocktail dress, and with the amount of use that both my daughter and I have got out of it brings it down to less than a dollar per wear, so it’s been a goodie.  Another little fact that makes me laugh about this dress is that the shade card was still attached to the remnant when I bought it, which revealed it to be a colour named “swamp”  Takes away from the glamour quotient somewhat, no?!  Still brings a smile to my face now…
But I love this colour, so does my daughter and we both look good in the dress, she considerably more so being gorgeous and young…
Details:
Dress; own design, green (swamp!) silk
Shoes; from Hobbs
Photo from Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2006
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