Tag Archives: Pattern Magic

Little charcoal skirt

Today is the most miserable of days Perth has to offer; we’ve had tons of rain in the last 24 hours and it’s windy and stormy to boot.  Good news for the farmers, though, this rain has finally broken another very long dry spell that has my friend J worrying over their crops…
On the plus side, today I am having my hair cut; one of my favourite self-indulgences where I get coiffured and pampered and swan out of the salon looking smart, sleek and suitable for public viewing once more… and tomorrow my sister-in-law is taking me to my first Burdastyle Club meeting!  I’m a bit excited, but also nervous about meeting new people and don’t really know what to take…  Maybe it would be safe to just take some fabric and a pattern for cutting out for this time.
Oh, what am I wearing, well after finishing this top from Pattern Magic I had a bit more of the charcoal stretch jersey left over and made this very simple basic little skirt to go with it.  It is the simplest of skirts; no darts or zips and a waistband of 3cm wide black elastic sewn around the top to hold it up, then hand-hemmed.  I think probably too simple to even bother putting up on Burdastyle…
In this outfit and with these lovely textured charcoal tights I feel appropriately sombre, rumply and skewiff, much like the stormy swirling storm clouds up above me in the sky… 

Details:
Top; made by me, drafted from Pattern Magic by Nakamichi Tomoko, charcoal stretch jersey knit
Skirt; my own design, charcoal stretch jersey knit
Tights; Spencer Lacy
Boots; Mina Martini, from Marie Claire

pinterestmail

Pattern Magic; page 50

I skipped ahead a few patterns to get to this jumper because I totally wanted to wear it this winter!!
This is of course drafted from Pattern Magic. by Nakamichi Tomoko.
This is an amazing top pattern for two reasons; firstly it is cut completely in one piece, and secondly the pattern is drawn all wonky and skewiff, which creates this amazingly interesting twist in the body of the top when you are wearing it.  I love it!
I made two versions of this top, the first is pictured on Bessie below, made out of quite thin mauve-y grey jersey.  This was made up exactly to the pattern and while I don’t have big arms by any means these sleeves are skin-tight on me.  This isn’t going to stop me from wearing it as the weather warms up around here, but just a warning note to others wanting to make up this top…
The second version, that I am wearing today, is out of a lovely thick warm charcoal marle knit.  I widened the sleeves by about 1.5cm and they are much more comfortable…  Because the fabric is a little thicker the twists don’t show up as dramatically on the body of the top, but with the weather as cold as it is in Perth right now that extra fabric thickness is very welcome!  I think it might have been about 3C this morning when I was taking these photos here, brrrr!

Details:
Top; from Pattern Magic, by Nakamichi Tomoko, charcoal knit
Jeans; Soon
Boots; Mina Martini, from Marie Claire shoes

pinterestmail

Pattern Magic; page 11

The latest in the Pattern Magic toiles; this one is on page 11.  There is a minuscule chance I will wear this toile.   Maybe it is a bit young for me; much as I detest that phrase “age appropriate dressing” that is so stifling to feminine flair and creativity in apparel.  I can’t bear that women should be forced into a pigeon-hole by their age group… however that being said I’m not sure this top would do for me.  Perhaps I should re-phrase that; not too “young” for me, but too … flirty and girly.  Too cute.  I’m too tall for cute.  As it happens my daughter has already asked if she can have it, so it will not go wasted…
I’m just loving the challenge of Pattern Magic, by Nakamichi Tomoko.  However I’ve realised, through a few recent remarks and conversations with others, that it is a book for advanced seamstresses.  A beginner would struggle.   Even more so if you have no Japanese…
Up until now I’ve gone steadily through the book in order but for my next project I’ve decided to skip ahead a few as there is a top that I really want for my winter wardrobe… soon!

pinterestmail

Pattern Magic; project 4

It might seem as though I’ve forgotten about my pledge to work my way through the very excellent book Pattern Magic by Nakamichi Tomoko but I haven’t.  It’s just that other sewing projects (such as ballgowns) have intervened and new wardrobe requirements have surfaced as the weather has got colder.  Lately a few naughty new additions to the fabric stash has meant the door to my laundry cupboard no longer closes without Bessie standing outside, her firm butt and her steel foot preventing an absolute avalanche of fabric…  so it was time for me to self-discipline and get back to the to-do list!  And I had purchased this fabric ages ago from the cheapie table at my favourite fabric store and it was just sitting there, waiting to be made up into something… anything…
Anyhoo, here is my latest effort.  I hadn’t got very far into drafting this particular pattern before I realised I was totally going to wear it.  Not only was the colour of this fabric close enough to the air force blue I am currently craving for my winter wardrobe, but I think the dress design is so delightfully different from your run-of-the-mill shift dress without being so odd as to attract sideways glances in the supermarket.  I think an avant-garde pattern made up with a very plain utilitarian fabric such as this sober blue crepe is a happy partnership that works pretty well, if I say so myself!
I started with the bodice drafted at the first stage of the book.  Next step to take a few body measurements enabling you to extend the bodice to get a simple undarted front and back of a shift dress, you then cut out a circle on the side seam and slash the pattern in a sunburst from this circle and fan out the resulting triangular pieces; this is how you achieve the gathered hole at the side seam… hard to explain, but the excellent diagrams in “Pattern Magic” illustrate how to draft the pattern very clearly. 
And here is the dress…  Different, no?  I think my husband was anticipating a bit of flesh exposure happening with this dress, but nooo! … 😉  Plus it’s now definitely too chilly in Perth even for teens to be in their midriff tops!… (Chilly being a relative term here in Perth!)
I just love Japanese sewing books for this reason, their illustrations are so excellent as to make understanding the language not so necessary that you can’t follow the instructions.  I’ve recently acquired through a loan from a friend another superb Japanese pattern book that I plan to work through straight after this one.  Being totally and completely in Japanese though, including the title and cover page, I am unable to supply the name of my borrowed book until further internet research has been carried out…
Details:
Dress; from Pattern Magic, by Nakamichi Tomoko
Top underneath; Metalicus
Boots; Mina Martini, from Marie Claire
pinterestmail

Pattern Magic; toile 3, “detsubori” no shatsu

The latest toile from this excellent book.  I think this is a fantastic book if you are a reasonably advanced seamstress who wishes to learn something about pattern manipulation and drafting.  I’ve never done this sort of thing before and I’m finding it challenging and good practice for any pattern alteration and/or drafting I may want to try in the future.  I have no idea what “detsubori” or “no shatsu” mean.  If anyone out there has any Japanese and can enlighten me …? 
For this one Bessie is obliging by being my model for today.  This blouse is a very clever design in how it incorporated the bust dart in to the sculptural er, “things” out the front making them even more, er, sticky-outy…  it’s probably a little eccentric for me, I guess the plus side of these is at least you have a place to tuck a hankie if you need one?  Yeah.  No other plusses occurring to me.
I didn’t do a very good job of inserting the sleeves, but, meh…  This one is going to remain for now just a toile.  Maybe someday when I am far more adventurous than I am now then this made up in a stiff crisp white linen may make a wonderfully avant-garde evening shirt … someday.

pinterestmail

Pattern Magic; toile 2, detsubori top

Actually that should read toile 2, and er, 3 as well, as I had a hiccup in the making of this one and had to start over.
Thanks to the wonderful and inspirational Karin of ancien-nouveau who was so incredibly helpful to me with Japanese terms  I managed to decipher that the name of this project is (I think) detsubori.  My (uneducated) guess is that this translates to perhaps “sail-collar” or some such, as that is how it looks.  I drew out the first version of the pattern and made up a toile out of some very cheap and nasty fabric bought for toile-making purposes.  In the making of this toile I initially sewed all  the back darts inside out, so they had to be unpicked and re-done; beginner’s mistake and I don’t think of myself as a beginner any more and was pretty cross with myself, grr….  Kept on with the toile and put it together properly this time…. For some reason known only to me-in-the-past, I finished this toile off with sew-on snap tape and finished the sleeve holes with bias binding, haven’t a clue why as the fabric didn’t suit the blouse and really is a bit nasty….  Sometimes when I get into sewing mode I’m like a robot and later on even I’m like “what was I thinking?…”and was pretty much finished…

It suddenly hit me like a thunderclap that this didn’t look much like the picture in the book.  Yeah, I’d made another boo-boo.  See the unpicker pointing to the bust dart in the photo?  Yeeeah..those bust darts aren’t supposed to be there.  At all.  The pattern is supposed to be drafted to eliminate this bust dart…  Oh…right, and this is not un-pickable…  (get out the paper and start drawing out the pattern again…)
Finished the second toile in like half the time of the first, so there had to be some advantages to all my blunders first time round.  Here is the second toile, note no bust darts… the sail is on the other side this time, well variety is the spice of life…

So I had some linen to make my husband another shirt and I managed to squeeze the pieces for the detsubori top out of the leftover fabric, except for the sleeves…  I made it into a little crossover top with a waist tie and a single button and little cap sleeves in a contrasting white, see the nautical colour scheme? that’s the influence of the “sail”.  I wonder if it translates to something completely different!!
In the front-view picture I’m holding up the sail as it has an annoying habit of going “flopsy” (that’s a highly technical sewing term, I’m sure advanced seamstresses would recognise).  It has been interfaced with quite stiff interfacing, but it still doesn’t stay up as smartly as the toile version.  Probably this is because linen is a much heavier and denser fabric that the light polycotton I used for the toile.  When I launder it I’m planning to give it a hefty spray of starch to keep it standing to attention.

 

pinterestmail

Pattern Magic, toile 1

Would you wear one of your toiles?
I only ask because of this: I had some unwashed calico to use for making toiles and experimenting on, and one day I was desperate to try out a pattern even though I hadn’t pre-washed the fabric yet.  So I used some in its unwashed state to trial a coat pattern.  The resulting toile was then stuffed in the fabric stash, why? because I’m a fabric hoarder and hardly ever throw fabric out.  When I was doing this latest toile I thought I might be able to re-use the calico from the coat-toile, so tossed it into the washing machine to pre-shrink… and then just slung it on Bessie awaiting further action.  
My daughter sees it.  She wants it.  She thinks it’s cool and looks expensive, like something one would find at more! (very expensive local boutique).  I look at it again and admit she’s right.  It does remind me of some extremely expensive garments I’ve seen on occasion in very exclusive boutiques, the sort that you wonder are a designer’s idea of a joke on the customer.  However the ?jacket? (if it’s worthy of that title!) does have a sort of post-grunge charm about it. I’m not sure I could get away with it, but I think my daughter could because she’s young and gorgeous.  Would you wear this garment?

Anyhow, on to the real point of this post, my first foray into Pattern Magic, the very exciting book by Nakamichi Tomoko.  Not having even the most basic understanding of Japanese (I know, I’m terribly ignorant) I think our first project is to make up a custom fit bodice pattern from a few basic torso measurements.  The accompanying diagram and two tables look terribly complicated, especially for a non-Japanese person, but I thoroughly enjoyed this process nonetheless.  I studied the pages for quite a while to work out the angles and precise meanings of the measurements marked, then finally taped together a few sheets of copy paper, got an accurate ruler and a protractor and got drawing and measuring.  This took me right back to my school days doing geometry and trigonometry (was called Maths III back then, but that’s ancient history…)  This was lots of fun.  I’m serious.  I’m a real geek at heart.
Finally ended up with this.

Cut it out, taped it up and made a few adjustments to get this bodice pattern, tailored to me:

And made up my bodice:
I enclosed the edges with scraps of bias binding because I wanted some bias-binding practice, then added some buttons and buttonholes at the back when I started to vaguely consider adding it to my wardrobe….  However its just a bodice, not a blouse, so I decided I would need a very high-waisted skirt to get away with this, so will probably not be wearing it and the buttons will go back into my button bag…

Funny story: when I was working on this, I had this conversation with my husband…
Me (studying my Pattern Magic book): “Do you think the library would have a Japanese dictionary?”
Him: “What?”
Me (still studying): “A Japanese dictionary.  If I could just work out what a few of these characters mean it would make this so much easier.”
Him: “What?”
Me (louder and a little impatient): “A JAPANESE DICTIONARY!”
Him: “Are you serious?”
I finally look up and see him smirking at me.  Realisation dawns.  We both start laughing, a lot.

pinterestmail
Switch to mobile version
↓