shirt Archives - Page 3 of 3 - Handmade by Carolyn

Khaki military shirt; 6 different ways

23/10/2012 7:29 am \ 27 Comments \ Carolyn

Oooh, it’s been a while since I did one of these posts… which is silly since I do get a big kick out of these myself. Playing in one’s wardrobe, the bestest play a grown-up girl can have, no?
Sometimes I like to play with new garments, to see how they are going to work out with things I already have; sometimes with an old garment to revisit it, and see how it’s holding up.
This shirt falls into the latter category. I made it using a men’s shirt pattern Burda 7767, of deep olive linen and with carved brass buttons, and first posted it here. I really loved the slouchy easy vibe of the military trend and added lots of little details like arrow-head tabs, flaps and pin-tucked pockets to make my shirt look as much like an army shirt as possible. Is the military trend on the way out? Oh well. I still absolutely love my shirt. It helps that casual and grunge-y is my all-time thang, and that khaki is one of my best colours :))
This is such an easy garment to have and to wear. It is linen, and I don’t even iron it. Ever. Yes I’m serious!! It’s supposed to look crinkly!
I’ve worn it several times here on my blog already, and for today tried to mix it up in a few new ways…. and yes, the fact that I have worn it loads of different ways already and can easily come up with a whole host of completely new ensembles incorporating this shirt… oh, did somebody say “way too many clothes”…? 😉
Ahem, without further ado.
Below left; the casualness of the design combined with the airiness of linen makes the shirt a perfect pairing for shorts on a hot summer’s day. At right; I really love the look of a slouchy man-style shirt blousing out over the top of a high-waisted pencil skirt. I wore this outfit last week sometime. Hmmm, looking at this I’ve realised it is pretty rare for me to actually show any of my handbags in my photos, would you prefer to see the whole ensemble including the handbag in future daily outfit photos? Please let me know….

Below at left: yes it does go nicely with my new capris as well… this is another outfit I wore last week. I adore this safari colour mix of khaki, beige and black too. At right; worn as a “jacket” to grunge down a slightly dressy, more winter-y ensemble. I wore this exact outfit once or twice over the winter just gone.

Below left; it looks a touch smarter when belted, over a little skirt and with my slouchy boots. Seriously, the colour khaki goes with all the colours in my wardrobe… I had trouble picking out just one of my skirts for this look. Middle; another winter-y but casual ensemble, with jeans and boots. I really did enjoy wearing the shirt as a sorta jacket like this during the cooler months. Truth be told; being linen it didn’t add much warmth but I just liked the look of it! At right; a sludgy and neutral foil to bright bright bright blue. Incidentally, this last outfit is the one I am wearing today…

I’m sure you can count, and have probably noticed that there are seven different ways here, not six. Sorry, I just got carried away and then I couldn’t narrow it down!! So yah, seriously. I sure hope the military trend sticks around for just a bit longer!

Posted in: fashion, Uncategorized \ Tagged: 6 different ways, Burda 7767, shirt

Of the palest blue

21/10/2012 11:00 pm \ 44 Comments \ Carolyn

I still have one or two really lovely pieces of fabric given to me for pressies last Christmas, as well as from my birthday last year (blush) Beautiful fabrics that I have been too chicken to take the scissors to. I know, ridiculous, right?!
Including a length of luscious powder-blue silk from Fabulous Fabrics, given to me by Cassie.
This is a pure silk, but an unusual silk like none I have ever come across before. The texture is very slightly rough and “grab-y”, almost suede-like; but somehow it still manages to be ripply and totally divinely soft against the skin.
No kidding, it’s like wearing a pale blue whisper.
I’ve given staaaacks of thought as to what to make with it… and eveeeeentually made a decision. Hey, I’m a Libra yo.
I really love my billowy black shirt, made last year. It is so easy to wear and I feel so so good in it. I feel like it is really flattering. I love the shawl collar, the elegantly draped and gathered sleeves. It is close to being perfect, and I wanted to make another one sorta similar, with a few modifications.

When I laid my pieces out on the fabric and realised I was going to end up with an unacceptably large piece of leftover fabric… aaagh! More scissor-phobia and had to immediately pack it all up for a bit more thought. And finally came up with a plan; yes, I still wanted my shirt, but I thought I might be able to squeeze a little petticoat from the leftovers… and I did! Just!!! And I have absolutely NO leftovers! Whooeee!
I had to cut the two back bodice pieces of the petticoat on the cross, and piece together one of the shoulder straps, but whoa! Self high-five! The high that comes with achieving zero waste in a project is pretty darn extra euphoric, yes? No??
Hmmm.
Maybe I need to get out more 😀

The nitty-gritty:
For my shirt/tunic: I used the same basic shirt pattern as for my billow-y black shirt, with some minor fitting modifications too; the bodice is based on Burdastyle 10/2010, shirt 102 (my review of this pattern is here), the shawl collar is adapted from Burda 8218, and the sleeves were partially based on those of my black blouse for which I used Burdastyle 5/2010 dress 101. But I have to confess I didn’t use the pattern piece this time but drew a different one. The sleeves have a shallower sleeve cap, are shorter, slightly more slim-line and not quite as bell-shaped; as the sleeves on my billow-y black shirt.

Another modification was to make it a tunic top rather than a shirt, with the front cut in one piece and with a half opening.

below; insides-ies…

The beautiful pearlescent marquise-diamond shaped buttons were a gift from the lovely ElleC, thank you ElleC! Snipping these buttons off of their card was another little hurdle that made me hesitate for a day or two, gathering strength; but eventually I forced myself to acknowledge that my new silk tunic was deserving of the very best buttons too 🙂 Initially I sewed them on vertically but they popped open like nobodies’ business, so I re-sewed them on the horizontal which helps them stay buttoned up.

For my petticoat: I used Burda 8071, a terrific basic pattern I have used ten times before; for ten different dresses and petticoats. This is the eleventh! To see a gallery of my previous versions of this pattern, go here 🙂 The bodice is lined with ivory silk charmeuse, leftover fabric from this top.

All the seams in both garments are French seams and all other raw edges are finished with HongKong seaming, in a lightweight ice-blue cotton leftover from this shirt. The one exception to this is the armscye seams in the tunic; I initially finished them with HongKong seaming but decided they were too bulky and made a bit of a hideously unacceptable lumpy-bump on my shoulder :(( so I unpicked it all, trimmed the heck out of them and finished them on the overlocker instead.

Sometimes, one’s quest for perfect inner appearances must be ditched in favour of perfect outer appearances after all… hehe.

Details:

Tunic; my own design, adapted from several patterns, powder blue silk

Petticoat; Burda 8071, powder blue silk and lined with ivory silk charmeuse

Belt; of emu leather, from luxe boutique (sadly no longer open)

Sandals; Pedro Miralles, from Soletta shoes

Just some housekeeping: I have no idea why, but I have been unable to comment on WordPress blogs lately. I type in a comment but it totally disappears… what is with that? So, to my WordPress blogging friends, sorry! I am reading, and trying to comment 🙁
LATER EDIT;
this blouse has received a dye bath and now looks like this:

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: Burda 8071, Burda 8218, Burdastyle magazine 10-2010-102, daily outfit, own design, petticoat, shirt

Billowy white shirt

17/02/2012 6:55 am \ 35 Comments \ Carolyn

I’ve made a shirt… and the twist is that this was until recently a pair of trousers. Yes really!
Before; as wide-legged trousers. They were very low-rise in the style of about five years ago. I could literally pull these trousers on and off without undoing the zip. The last time I wore them was about two years ago (in this top right outfit) and even then I had the zip un-zipped and the sides lapped over and hoinked together with a big safety pin so they wouldn’t fall down.

However the linen was such beautiful quality! and I did not want to let it go to waste…
so I did not. 🙂
I have been toying with a particular concept for a shirt-from-pants for a while in my head. I’ve had a very firm picture of how it was going to go together. Naturally my nebulous “idea” didn’t work out quite the way I had planned and I realised at some point that I needed more fabric, and in very different shapes, to what I actually had. I had to pin, stitch, unpick, re-pin, re-stitch, re-unpick over several times before I dared to actually cut into any of the leg pieces… and there was a lot of this before I ended up with a design I was happy with. No, I don’t do muslins very often. I consider them a waste of fabric.
The construction… well, don’t ask me to go into great detail… it was quite complex. The long extended front bands, starting at the shoulders and extending down the fronts, and continuing around to meet at the centre lower back are from my original shirt plan, the one I had to abandon. I liked how they looked, hanging in space like that, so I left them there. To cover the join at the back, which by necessity in the design finished inside out with the seam showing, I made a little decorative button tab.

The shirt has two fronts, and the back has a two pieced yoke extending into the sleeve backs, and two lower backs joined centrally.
The back of the shirt has four corners of fabric joining together at a centre point. I pressed the vertical seam allowances of the upper and lower backs to either side to reduce bulk in the long horizontal back seam joining them. This is double top-stitched down. Actually this shirt contains an eclectic mix of sometimes double top-stitching, sometimes single top-stitching and sometimes no top-stitching. I applied these at whim. It seems to work well with the casual and slightly avant-garde Japanese style of the shirt.
My favourite design detail is the sleeves and their closure. The front sleeve is shorter, and almost a square. The back yoke/sleeve piece has a distinct curve-and-flare in it, tapering off to one side, this was part of the original shape of the leg back pieces, and after lots of pinning the sleeve seams and trying-on multiple times I situated part of the existing curve to fall at the natural outer elbow. It looks very strange when the sleeve is laid flat, but the flare and curve actually accommodates the curve of the elbow very well. It took a bit of experimenting, but I’m so happy with how this bit turned out! It was a very serendipitous discovery!

Both points of the longer back yoke/sleeve piece have a buttonhole, and they both button down over a single button on the centre of the sleeve front hem. To enable the button to cope with this amount of fabric, I sewed it to have quite a high and a very well reinforced shank.

So I’m super happy with how my shirt turned out! There was almost zero leftovers, just a few shavings, the zip and the facings, and a few other miscellaneous small bits. The 6 buttons were leftovers from this shirt. Beautiful buttons, their only downside is that they are not for individual purchase, but only available on cards of nine. Luckily I have a lot of use for little white buttons 🙂
And I still have my original shirt idea in my head for another time…

Details:
Shirt; my own design, re-fashioned from a pair of wide-legged trousers, fine white linen
Shorts; Burda 7723, hot pink linen, details here, and to see these in 6 different ways go here. My review of this pattern here

Later edit: the shirt has had a mini-revamp and it now looks like this:

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: daily outfit, own design, shirt, Sienna, Wardrobe Refashion

A double-sleeved shirt

04/01/2012 3:39 am \ 18 Comments \ Carolyn

Remember I said I had made 6 shirts over the past month and a half? well here ’tis t’ sixth!
This blue shirt was was intended for one of my boys and was pretty much finished, but I was getting more and more disillusioned with it and realising that they would probably not find it in the least bit cool. The colour and the fabric are too flat, the style is too old, and the whole deal is not hip at all… :(( so I set it aside and made other plans for their pressies…
Then I recalled an editorial picture I had seen and loved, of a Celine shirt from pre-fall 2011; which appeared in that picture to have double sleeves. A long sleeve of a different colour peeping out from underneath a prim high-collared short sleeve shirt… I had loved this look and mentally filed it away for future use. Now whammo realised that I had the perfect candidate all ready and waiting!!
So, I went online to find a picture from the original release of the collection (below) and saw straightaway that the sleeve that inspired me is not in fact a double sleeve, but appears to be a single and pieced sleeve with a seam at the midpoint… but by this time I was in love with my falsely inspired idea of the double sleeve and so this was what I set out to do…
I have had this long sleeve, white linen men’s shirt (below) sitting in my refashion pile for… ahem, mumble years. Er, hazarding a guess at five? … cough cough. It doesn’t fit anyone in my mob, but is still pretty well-made and the linen is a lovely fine quality. I took the scissors to it and liberated its sleeves (the rest of the shirt will be put to good use, don’t worry…)

source

Taking the blue shirt; well I had to cut off my perfect flat felled sleeves and flat felled side seams (a wrench!) and resize the shirt to me, since all my boys are a lot bigger than me. I’m afraid I just didn’t have the heart to go through re-flat-felling these seams again either, since I was getting severely “shirted-out” by the time I had got to this one; number six. I was kind of like, oh yeah, whatever, run ’em through the overlocker (brrrrrrrrr! and 10 seconds later) yup, that’ll do.
I didn’t unpick the pockets either, and just left them completely in situ. This is why they appear quite big on my little chest and are disappearing into my armpits. Hey, I can live with that. The white linen sleeves were also quite massive on me so needed resizing as well… this turned out to be more challenging that it sounds, since the sleeve seam was a French seam and double top-stitched down in place. Tricky! I got there in the end, but the insides are not gorgeous… basically I ended up just overlocking the raw edges of my new seam and double top-stitching this down from the outside to match up with the remainder of the original seam as it goes down in the cuff. The cuff and the placket both are perfectly double top-stitched, and I wanted to keep all that intact and mimic this finish as much as I could. I think the seam matched up pretty good, yes? Can you see where the old topstitching ends and the new begins?

I wanted the sleeves to be fully separate from each other as the white sleeve emerged from out of the blue sleeve, which was a bit of a puzzle to mesh together… I ended up deciding to sew the blue sleevecap in flat, sew up and finish the sleeve and side seams of the shirt; and then after this set in the white linen sleeve. This meant the white sleeves could only be machine stitched in so far.

I completed the set-in by hand.

Last step; to topstitch the allowances of both sleeves together down to the shirt body…

Just to show the garment full-length… (might not wear it this way much)

Luckily I hadn’t yet done the buttonholes on the shirt and so could put them on the “female” side of the shirt. I love these gorgeous wooden buttons from Fabulous Fabrics, the same ones that Sam chose for his shirt here.

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767 modified, of shot cotton in Sky and with long white sleeves from an old shirt
Skirt; Vogue 8363 modified, of burnt orange raw silk, details here, my review of this pattern here, and see this skirt styled in 6 different ways here
Shoes; Bensimon, from seed

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: Burda 7767, daily outfit, shirt, tutorial, Wardrobe Refashion

Ivory blouse

04/08/2011 3:10 am \ 24 Comments \ Carolyn

I finished a new blouse.
This is a project that took me far longer than it should have, actually. Been working on it for a few weeks! and that is not like me… I had it nearly finished, and then toddled off to get buttons. Got completely distracted by a sale on at Spotlight and the dye selection and, you guessed it, came home with a heap of new dyes and some other odds and sods, as you do, but no buttons… then it was a while before I could get back to the fabric store, blah blah blah. Then I went off it for a bit, thinking it was awfully boring and uninspiring, and it came thisclose to getting dip-dyed on the weekend, but then I came to my senses. I think I will be glad I kept it snowy white. Everyone could use an ivory shirt in their collection, right? And now my husband’s white linen shirt will finally be safe from my clutches…
The fabric is a light slightly fluffy brushed cotton, and I used pattern 102 from Burdastyle magazine 10/2010. I have used this pattern partially before to make my black blouse, so I know it to be quite nice; billowy but still slightly mannish. I do like that in a ladies’ shirt.
Because the fabric is slightly sheer I finished all the seams with French seaming, except for the armholes which were just overlocked. I curved the top edge of the sleeve cuff and put on two buttons and buttonholes, one perpendicular to the other for a little touch of something interesting. I did this because the sleeve cuff dimensions provided by the pattern are overly generous and I found them to be too long. So rather than clipping them off to the right length I just kept them long and put in this double offset buttonhole feature for fun.

Details:
Blouse; Burdastyle magazine 10/2010, 102, ivory brushed cotton
Jeans; Burda 7863, khaki stretch gabardine, details here
Boots; Andrea and Joen, from Uggies in Dunsborough

Pattern Description:
Loose-fitting button-up blouse with two piece sleeves, cuffs, collar stand and collar
Pattern Sizing:
36-44, I made a straight 38
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
I left off the breast pockets, but otherwise yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
If you have made up a tailored shirt before, then yes. For a beginner I would recommend getting a pattern with step by step illustrations, like one of the big 4 for example, for a first go at a tailored shirt.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the big blouse-y shape of this blouse! If I was making it up again, I don’t know if I would bother with the two piece sleeves but instead go with a one piece sleeve with a slit and a separate placket piece for the vent, a procedure I am more familiar with. And these sleeves are so loose-fitting that it doesn’t seem worth the effort of that little bit of shaping you get with having the two pieces.
Fabric Used:
lightweight, slightly fluffy, brushed cotton blend
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I left off the breast pockets.
The method for putting together the front facing and collar stand was inefficient in my opinion, so I did it instead by turning the facing to the outside around the collar stand and sewing it in one seam, then turning the facing to the inside. This not only means less fiddling about with slipstitching the collar stand seam allowance under, but also means the collar stand seam allowances are down inside the facing and not up inside the collar stand itself, meaning less bulk. The usual issue of all those bulky seam allowances inside the collar stand are a slight pet peeve of mine, and I thought having a front self facing that branches up into the shoulder seam is a great solution to this small problem…
I also altered the button placement.
The pattern stipulates one yoke piece; I cut two and enclosed the seam allowances of the back piece and shoulder edges of the front pieces between the two yoke pieces. A double thickness yoke is more stable too.
The cuff dimensions are generous and I found them to be too long; but I kept the extra length, curved off the top edge and just had two buttonholes and two buttons, for an interesting little feature.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Probably I will sew this again sometime, and yes, I do recommend this to others!
Conclusion:
Nicely blouse-y and feminine, but still with a slightly tailored and mannish air about it, so I am pretty happy with the look of this lovely and flattering pattern. I think I will get a tonne of wear out of this!

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: Burdastyle magazine 10-2010-102, pattern review, shirt, top

Pattern Magic 2; the Vanishing Scarf

11/06/2011 6:48 am \ 32 Comments \ Carolyn

I’ve made my first project from Pattern Magic 2, by Tomoko Nakamichi; the vanishing scarf top. Looking through this wonderful book I really couldn’t decide which project to make first. I’m not just saying that. I really couldn’t decide; so I got Craig to choose one for me. He chose this one. Obviously, hehe. If you’re interested, the dressmaking details are below…

Details:

Shirt; drafted from Pattern Magic 2 by Tomoko Nakamichi, of polyester stuff I dyed myself with iDye for synthetics in Brown, done here

Skirt; Vogue 7303, lined, in bottle green cotton velveteen, details here

Tights; Metalicus

Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

scarf “under” at left, and “over” at right

The patterns in Pattern Magic 2 really are concepts, rather than lead-you-by-the-nose patterns, meaning there are no specific directions for finishing off these garments, or even how to make them so one can even wear them. These sorts of details are up to the seamstress/seamster; this is why I really feel these books are aimed at the advanced seamstress. Or seamster; whatever. You guys know that when I use the term “seamstress” I referring to all of us peops, male or female, handy with a needle, right? I just use that term because I would never apply the term “sewer” to myself; eeewwwww! and “dressmaker”, while very gender acceptable, implies that one is only making dresses. So I kind of like “seamstress”, when applied to myself. But I digress…
This shirt as presented in the book had a few clues as to how the designer intended for the garment to be finished, including a central back zip, to be opening from the lower hem, up; and for a narrow front edge band to finish off those top front edges. Both of which I incorporated, but I would do it differently next time around.
For a start, I would recommend drafting a wide front edge facing which folds around the front edge including the neckline opening and enclosing the collar seam allowances, and attaching at the shoulder seam. I think this would make for a cleaner finishing look. See in the collar close-up below how you can see the inside edge of that narrow right front edge band? I don’t really like seeing that, and wish it was wider, and therefore invisible from view. I would have done this if I had more fabric to play with… but with the scarf in place it isn’t really too obvious when you are wearing it.
Plus, if I was making this again, I wouldn’t have the central back zip, as funky a feature as this is. Instead I would have the shirt open at the front and incorporate a hidden button band for closure at the front. These are just my personal preferences for finishing off this shirt, and not a criticism of the design at all, which I love. I looove how the vanishing scarf looks; how it is part of the shirt at the front and worn tucked around one’s neck to disappear back into the shirt. LOVE it!

I used the fabric that was an unloved remnant from my friend C, that used to be pale pistachio green and which I dyed using iDye for Synthetics in Brown, here. My fabric was limited, so I used strips of bias-cut black cotton for an interfaced lower edge facing. It is understitched and invisibly slip-stitched to the garment.
Because my shirt is unlined, and because I sometimes find the bottom edges of invisible zips to be quite irritating when against the skin, I hand-sewed on a little square of lining fabric to cover up the lower (upper?) edge of the teeth.

I also added sleeves to my design; well with a scarf as part of the shirt I figured it to be more of a winter-y garment, therefore sleeves would be more the go than a sleeveless thing. My sleeves are quite plain, and for a little military/trench coat touch I added tabs with large tortoise-shell buttons. Well, tortoiseshell; they’re actually plastic, but I’m using the term “tortoise-shell” as a description of their colour. I do not advocate depriving a tortoise of its shell in order to provide me with a button, no sirreee.
So, waddya think?

oh oh oh, you may be thinking I’ve forgotten about my son’s birthday sewing, but I haven’t! It was actually finished, and wrapped up and presented to him. Then I thought of a few little improvements, which are now in the works. So when I’ve finished finished, I’ll get him to model it in its really finished state for this ol’ blog here.

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: daily outfit, MMJ11, Pattern Magic 2, shirt, Sienna

Billowy black shirt, with skulls

06/04/2011 5:04 am \ 32 Comments \ Carolyn

I’ve made a new shirt.
But I can’t do any reviews, because this shirt is based on not one pattern, not even two patterns, but three patterns. A conglomeration of patterns. The united states of patterns. You’ve heard of a meeting of the minds? This is a meeting of the patterns. A little bit, hopefully the best, taken out of each and the production of a mongrel, but better, (stronger, faster) shirt…
I knew in my head exactly what I wanted; I wanted a billowy pirate-y type shirt, inspired by the cute little skull buttons I bought in Japan. The buttons are miniature silver skulls, but each is wearing a tiny little silver crown, so the shirt had to be not just piratical, but kind of majestic at the same time to make it worthy of these completely wonderful buttons. Don’t you just love these buttons? You cannot get buttons like this here… I need to go to Japan more often.
The fabric is a thin self-patterned black cotton/synthetic mix that was one of my Christmas presents, bought by me, for my son to give to me for Christmas (hey, we’re practical when it comes to gift giving around here…)
I’m wearing it hanging out over my skirt here, to show it in its full length with the gently curved hemline on show, but most probably I will wear it tucked in a lot of the time too…
I put the technical details of making the shirt below, if anyone is interested.
Oh, the shoes. These are my highest heels, at 4 1/2″. They put me at over 6′. I adore these shoes, and decided I am going to wear them more often, just because. Of course I didn’t wear them to walk the dog. But I wore them to do my other daily and office activities. They are a lot more comfortable than they appear.

Details:
Shirt; Burdastyle 10-2010-102, collar from Burda 8218, sleeves from Burdastyle 05-2010-101, made of black self-patterned cotton mix with skull buttons bought in Japan
Skirt; Vogue 7303, olive corduroy, to see this skirt styled in 6 different way go here
Shoes; Kron by Kron Kron, bought online

The shirt; so it’s probably pretty complicated so you can skip this technical stuff unless you really want to reproduce this for yourself… like a lot of seamstresses I like to take a little bit from here and a little bit from there, and manipulate the patterns I have to get the look I want..
I saw this lovely graceful classic shirt pattern 102 in Burdastyle magazine 10/2010 (right, top) and liked its loosely elegant body with no body darts or shaping. But I wanted a shawl collar rather than the classic one in the pattern, thus the hunting down and finally locating Burda 8218, the only shawl collared shirt pattern available here in Perth, or so it seemed… and for the sleeves, I wanted something gathered and billowy, but three quarter length, so used the lower part of the bell-shaped gathered sleeve from the dress pattern 101 from Burdastyle 05/2010 (right, lower). To cut the sleeve cap to fit into the armscye of the shirt pattern, I laid down the sleeve pieces from the shirt pattern 102, to get the sleeve cap part of the sleeve right. It is a two piece sleeve, but I just laid them together with the stitching lines abutting. The other sleeve from the dress pattern 101 I laid down on top with the underarm points matching those of the shirt sleeve pattern, and just used this to cut out the arm part of the sleeve with the bellshaped hemline (see below), and I also used the sleeve cuff from the same dress pattern 101. Except when I had finished the shirt, the sleeves didn’t sit exactly how I envisioned, they sagged a bit low and I really wanted for them to look really billowy and like they were pushed up to the elbow permanently. So I added an in-sleeve tab on the sleeve seam which pulls the sleeves up to gather just that little more fully and gracefully at just below elbow length and sit up right where I want them. I only had five of the skull buttons so I had to use different buttons here, these are purply-grey natural shell buttons.
The shawl collar, well, obviously I used the collar pattern pieces from Burda 8218, and cut the shirt front facings, front neckline edge and back neckline edge to match those of this pattern, otherwise the collar wouldn’t have fitted… This only took a little bit of adjustment and it was not difficult at all to match the collar from one shirt pattern to the different body of the other shirt pattern.
Et voila.

(the sleeve at left; the two shirt sleeve pieces underneath were laid together along the stitching line to get the sleeve cap, at left, and the lower edge of the sleeve piece was cut off at the curved hemline of the piece on top)