Tag Archives: Sienna

water

One of my favourite things about the me-made months are the photo theme days.  Today’s theme is Water! aaaand I suspect I’m totally failing in creativity here and displaying nought but amazing predictability, but I can think of no better excuse for me to take Sienna to Dog Beach, which is only, like, her very favourite place in the whole wide world.  I know, shouldn’t need an excuse, right?  But sometimes, we do.
In other news, today I am being interviewed over at Seamstress Erin, on, what else? but our shared love of style and sewing.
Thank you Erin!  🙂

min 13C, max 24C, sunny

Details:
Top; Vogue 1247, orange cotton, details and my review of this pattern here
Capris; Vogue 1115, sand stretch sateen, details and my review of this pattern here
Thongs; Havaianas

My family is sorta? keeping up in the me-made fashion stakes, Craig is wearing this shirt again today.  I’m thinking my “keep quiet and let it organically happen” approach is not going to lead to much variety in this side of things.
(Burda 7767, shirting cotton, details here)

Speaking of water, and the ocean, and freaky things; oh sorry, we weren’t?  Oh well, we are now… check out this deep deep sea creature
How freaky?!

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Mayday

So, I said I wasn’t going to post a photo here every day during me-made May, since I’ve had comments on my blog about how boring it is, apparently.  Sorry.  But today is the very first day and I’m kinda pumped about joining in, so… yeah.  Here we are!  Wearing shades of beige, ivory, grey, just like those beautiful clouds above.
This is a different piccie from the one I posted on the mmm13 Flickr group, because after I uploaded that one I noticed it was actually a pretty lousy picture; one I had taken on a terrible setting apparently … doh!  I’m still learning!  Aperture too wide!  So I checked through the rejects for this one, which is not so good of my outfit I think but is a better shot, clarity-wise.
It is cloudy, which makes the photo-taking part of my brain leap for joy, the light being so much more amenable to photos; and it is so beautiful and fresh and cool at last.  I’m excited about trawling through my me-mades for outfits for this month.  I’m excited about the possibilities for layering.

min 14C; max 26C; cloudy

Details:
Tshirt; self-drafted, and never blogged before because it was a bit boring, but it was made using the leftovers from these leggings
Wrap; wrap “f” from shape shape by Natsuno Hiraiwa, cream knit dip-dyed in blue dye; more details here and my review of this book here
Skirt; Vogue 1247, of a piece of curtaining fabric; more details here and my review of this pattern here
Shoes; Betts&Betts; I’ve had these for many years

Last year, I also included when my family happened to be wearing something I had made on any given day too; so I thought I would do that again.  An old photo, but this morning my husband left for work wearing this me-made shirt:

Craig’s shirt; Burda 7767, shirting cotton, more details here and my review of this pattern here

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Taurus

 
I have made a new leather jacket.  Well…  it’s “pleather” really.  A faux leather jacket; or maybe we can call it a fleather jacket… ha!   I’m going to go with that.  I’m pretty happy with how it turned out!  I’ve been thinking wistfully about a leather jacket for years, and I was super impressed with kbenco‘s gorgeous leather jacket.  So, while I was staying at my parents’ place over Easter I noticed this pattern, designed for leather in one of Mum’s old Burda style magazines. I found this very nice chocolate brown and black-splodged PU laminate in Fabulous Fabrics; the texture is very realistic, semi-matte and soft and very faintly “crazed” like very well-loved, well-worn old leather.  I bought up and got cracking.
The jacket is pattern number 113 from Burda style magazine, 08/2010.  I made no modifications, excepting multiple teeny modifications to get a good fit.  There were plenty of these, but I’m only listing them in my review below if you feel like plodding through the nitty gritty, since reading about personal fitting modifications is the most boring thing on the planet.  The only one really worth mentioning is that the sleeve cap to this pattern is rather high and leather is not a fabric that lends itself well to easing.  So I shaved off quite some height off the top of the sleeve cap, just over 1cm tapering off to the gathering start and end points.

I’m not completely sure about that slit at the lower edge of the centre back seam.  I don’t really see the point of it.  I’m giving it a fair go though.  It’s on trial.  I might decide to sew it up sometime down the track…
The jacket is fully lined with chocolate brown polyacetate lining fabric.  

It has a hidden button placket for two hidden buttons, and two large, lined, flapped patch pockets at the hips, which are unfortunately not situated very conveniently for actually putting your hands in (sad face)  But you can still put things in them, and they do look pretty cool.  I like leather jackets to have lots of things and detailing and stuff on the outside.  In my opinion details really up the cool quotient on a casual jacket and lend it a young, urban aesthetic.

The jacket also has one small welted pocket on the upper left.  My fabric tended to “bounce” out of a fold, so I edge-stitched the welt, as well as the collar and front opening edges, to give them a flat sharp edge.  
The pattern called for the pocket bag under the welt to be inserted in line with and perpendicular to the pocket, which would have meant it would sit stuck out at a slight angle.  Whaaaa?  So I changed it so it hangs down vertically from the welt.  It’s hidden in between the lining and the jacket, so you can’t actually see the pocket bag at all, but I just didn’t like the idea of it sitting out all skewiff, defying gravity like that; it seemed an oddly imperfect and unbalanced way of doing the pocket, and it would have flopped in on itself a bit.  I think Burda probably did it this way to make the pattern piece and the instructions easier; but I just had to alter it to have a straight-hanging pocket.
Apparently the sleeves are 7cm longer than normal so that the wearer can roll or fold them back.  Well, I love this longer length.  This is great for winter.  I always get really cold wrists in winter, and so I won’t be rolling or folding them up at all!

Details:
Jacket; Burda style magazine 08/2010, 113, pleather
Skirt; Vogue 8363 with modifications, rusty red wool/silk mix, details and my review of this pattern here
Tshirt; self-drafted, white cotton, details here
Boots; Enrico Antinori

By the way, I often state that whatever I am wearing in my picture is what I am wearing that day, that I keep it real and never ever “dress up” just for the camera.  Well obviously, everyone in Perth will know straight away that it is a bit too warm for a winter-y get-up like this today! so in this case I am “dressing up”  (blush)  Sorry, but I just couldn’t wait for winter to show off my new jacket!

Pattern
Description:

Fitted
jacket with a short V-neckline, narrow standing collar, single welted breast pocket and two flapped patch
pockets.  Long two piece sleeves,
front has two darts for shaping, the back features a short lower hem vent and
the front closes by partially hidden button placket
Pattern
Sizing:
Petite/half
sizes 17-21; I made the size 19
Did
it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished
sewing it?
Yes.
Were
the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What
did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Well; I think the styling is great; a mixture of classic blazer and motorcycle jacket with a neat and nifty, waist-defining shape, and cute detailing.  I really like the pockets and I think they look really great in leather.  The sleeves are 7cm longer than normal.  I love this, they will keep my wrists nice and warm this winter.
I’m not completely sold on that centre back slit at the hem.  I don’t really see the point of it.  This may or may not get sewn up in the future, if it lets too much cold air in.
Fabric
Used:
Faux
leather, with polyacetate lining fabric for the lining
Pattern
alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn’t make any design changes, but I made tonnes of small modifications for fit.  Considering leather is not a fabric that eases at all, I think the sleeve cap is drafted too high and would have been too difficult to ease into the armhole.  I shaved off about 1cm in height off the top, and also took about 1cm off the edge of each shoulder seam, the latter a fit modification.  I took in all the seam allowances at the waist to bring the jacket in to hug my waist; the shaping as it was a tad boxy for what I wanted.  The faux leather fabric I used didn’t take creases at all, so I edge-stitched all around the front edges of the jacket and collar, as well as the fold of the welt, to give a nice sharp edge.
Would
you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Maybe….
so many patterns, so little time! 
But yes, of course I recommend this classic yet cool pattern to others.
Conclusion:
Well
I now have a cool new (f)leather jacket. 
I’m totally happy with it.  ‘Nuff
said  🙂

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Navy bloo-p

Hello  🙂
So, it turns out that navy blue is just as difficult to photograph as black… oh well!
I have made a skirt.   This used to be a pair of extra-huge, navy blue, corduroy jeans, that I bought from the op shop yonks and yonks ago for a fancy dress party.  They’ve been sitting in my refashioning pile, awaiting a new life.  The fabric is perfectly good but they haven’t been worn ever since the aforementioned fancy dress party, because they did not fit anyone in my family.

My new skirt is based upon a firm favourite skirt pattern, Vogue 1247.  I unpicked and re-used the sturdy silver jeans zip from the old jeans in the centre back, as well I took off and re-sized the waistband with its attached belt loops, and managed to retain the silver jeans button and its corresponding buttonhole, both in situ from the original jeans.
The pockets are lined with blue-and-white stripe fabric, leftover from Sam’s Christmas shirt.

Due to the fabric limitations, I had to cut the skirt to have a centre front seam, as well as the standard centre back seam.

Now you might be thinking; if the jeans were so big to start with, how could you possibly have “fabric limitations” in making a rather small skirt out of them?  Well, when it comes to re-fashioning a new garment from an old, even if your old garment has plenty of fabric it still can be quite a trick to get even a smaller new garment out of it.  This can be due to several factors, such as awkwardly placed seams, or if your fabric has a nap.  In the case of this old jeans to new skirt refashion, there were both of these factors to contend with.  Even though I was starting with satisfactorily extra-big trousers, they were cut in an old-fashioned, late 80’s, early 90’s style, with wide hips tapering down into narrower ankles.  This is the exact opposite of what I wanted in my little skirt; which is narrowest at the waist and gets wider going down to the lower hem; plus there was the nap of the corduroy which you always want to be running down the garment, never ever up the garment.  Plus there were big slanted hip pockets in the jeans, getting in the way of cutting anything out from the top of the jeans.  Plus, a lot of the old bar-stitching was done with an incredibly strong thread, almost like fair dinkum fishing wire or something, making unpicking a sheer joy.  That was heavy sarcasm just there, by the way.  So in the end, it took quite some careful measuring and giving and taking a few centimetres here and a few centimetres there from different pieces, to get out the pieces I wanted.  This is a lengthy justification for why my skirt has a centre front seam, as well as a centre back seam.  So not ideal, I know, but it was the only way the skirt could be!

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247 modified, refashioned from a pair of old navy blue jeans/trousers… my review of this pattern here
Top; the hoodie from Pattern Magic 3, blue knit, details here
Thongs; Havaianas

D’ya want to hear/see something funny?  This will give everyone a laugh…. I actually made this skirt back in January of this year, specifically for my high school reunion! and wore it, and photographed it on that day for the blog, but I never put the photo up here…  I decided I just looked silly.  Now I’ve decided that it’s not toooo bad, so here it is!  I made the skirt because I got this whacky idea in my head to kinda reproduce my old school uniform for the reunion.  I found my old school tie, which is tiny! and wore it.  The other pieces are from my regular handmade wardrobe, but it was such a hot night that I left that blazer in the car…
Yes, it was silly… but it was fun!
So, this outfit below is a pretty close representation of what I used to wear to school, every day  😀

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247, as above
Top; the bamboo shoot top from Pattern Magic, white linen, details here
Tie; my old school tie
Blazer; Simplicity 4698, navy blue silk, seen first here, and also worn in 6 different ways here
Sandals; Vincenza, from Soletta shoes

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Blue-bell sleeves

Hello  🙂
I’ve made a new top.  Actually I made this a little while ago, and I’ve suddenly came to the glorious realisation that hey! the autumnal weather is here and it’s actually beautiful enough to wear it.  I love this time of the year!
This is made using Vogue 1115 with the body lengthened by about 2.5cm, and used a piece of thin blue woven cotton denim-y stuff.  I chose to use the fabric wrong side out, since I preferred the muted, slightly undefined, yellow-y tone of the blue of the wrong side.  The right side is a stronger blue, which I didn’t think did wonders for my complexion.
I’ve written a pattern review below for anyone interested, but there really is one important thing to know about this pattern, it is rated Advanced/Plus Difficile, and yes, that is a well deserved rating.  The undersleeve/side piece when joined together is pretty tricky to insert neatly; and sewing down the seam allowances of said sleeve gusset with a double row of topstitching? … seriously tricky.

Most of the topstitching I used a deeper blue thread which was painstakingly colour matched to the blue in the fabric weave.  Haha, kidding; actually it is just leftover thread that I already had in my stash  🙂 the fact that it matched is fortuitous!  I used a lighter shade of blue for the bar tacks.

Installing that invisible zip, another seriously tricky procedure.. since I prefer to insert the zip before sewing up the seam below it; and since the seam allowance has to be finished with a double row of top-stitching to stylistically match all the other seams on the garment; this is an area that needed a bit of nutting out.  I’m pretty pleased with the nice even finish I got in the end  🙂

Look at those blissfully deep, welted inner pockets (satisfied sigh)  I made them a smidge deeper and bigger, and the edges are finished with HongKong seaming.

The graceful curve of those pieces in the back is so elegant and stylish.  I just love the seaming lines here!  I also like how the slit at the lower back stylistically matches the slit at the upper front neckline.  imo, it’s the little details like this that set the designer patterns apart from the others.

Those wide bell sleeves… I wasn’t absolutely certain that I would adore these, but they’ve grown on me.  They are certainly comfortable and feel nice to wear, no constrictions whatsoever! and I think they look quite designer-y and interesting.  I worried that the size of them would make them annoying, that they would get in the way of my daily activities, but I’ve worn my new top all day and barely noticed the sleeves.  No worries there!


Details:
Top; Vogue 1115, blue cotton denim
Skirt; based on Vogue 1247, refashioned from another skirt, originally Vogue 8561, details here
Sandals; c/o Misano

Pattern
Description:
Loose-fitting,
hip length, pull-over top has wide funnel neckline with slit, front and back
armhole gusset seaming, bell sleeves, welt pockets, back  inset, slit, side back zip and flat
fell seams.
Pattern
Sizing:
American
sizes 6-12; I cut the size 10
Did
it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished
sewing it?
Yes.
Were
the instructions easy to follow?
In my
opinion the instructions are straightforward but this pattern is rated
Advanced/Plus Difficile for a reason!
What
did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Well
I do so love a sewing challenge, and there are a few in this pattern… this is
not a top that can be whipped up in one day, no sirreee!  I dug down deep into my reserves of
patience and only allowed myself to work on the tricky bits when I was feeling
fresh and not tired!  For example:
stitching those double rows of topstitching to the undersleeve and side / front
and back seams was tricky, and also attaching
the neckline facing neatly to the top curved edges of the zip tape quite
tricky.
Fortunately,
I really love the final product!
Fabric
Used:
Lightweight cotton
denim
Pattern
alterations or any design changes you made:
I
lengthened the body pieces by 2.5cm at the hem, and cut the pockets to be 1.5cm
deeper…
Step
16, I chose to reinforce underneath the single layer of fabric with a small
bias cut square of interfaced cloth before stitching the bar-tacks.
Step
35; I prefer to insert the invisible zip before
sewing together the seam underneath, I think you can get a much neater finish
Step
49; I think it is supposed to read “with right sides together” but in any case
I didn’t stitch the welt together like this, just folded it wrong sides
together and continued with step 51 with the edges raw and unstitched, and then
in step 56, slipped them between the pocket and triangular ends, stitching them
in place in the pocket seam, a more elegant and less bulky way of finishing the
welt considering the raw edges are bound with HongKong seaming in step 57.
I didn’t do the following, but if I was
making this again I would…!
Step
3 and step 20 have you slash the underarm/sleeve between stay-stitching… I
recommend instead that you leave the actual slashing until just before step 45, when you pin
and attach the undersleeve and side. 
There’s no need to make the cuts so early, and if your fabric is subject
to fraying then I think it’s best to leave it until the last minute,
particularly since you are cutting so close to the stay-stitching and into the
armhole corner.
Would
you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I do
recommend this pattern to the advanced seamster, and I think I will sew this one up again.  And,
ahem, I can get the top on and off without having to even use that
difficult-to-insert zip as long as I don’t mind my hair getting a bit
messy.  Which I don’t.  So, maybe I have a tiny head but
looking at the pattern envelope I think the model probably could do the
same.  The next time I might not
even bother with that zip. 
Conclusion:
I’m very happy with my new top, and I think it is a great
designer take on comfortable and
chic.  I was a bit worried about
those wide bell-sleeves before I started, that they would get in the way of daily activities, and/or look awkward and
stand out stiffly in a difficult-to-wear way but I needn’t have been; the sleeves feel great and look quite cool, and are very comfy in this loose floppy fabric.

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Cut-out things

I made this little lace jacket/cardi/top thing many years ago, probably ten years ago! way before I started my blog, but even though it has appeared here a coupla times I’ve just realised it’s never been shown, as it were.  So here it is, up close and personal.
The design is my own, perhaps copied from something I saw in a magazine, I think.  It only took up a very small piece, about 50cm of embroidered cut-out linen from Fabulous Fabrics.  The sleeves are just little caps, extensions of the armholes.  All the raw edges are simply encased in self-made bias binding of white cotton, and at the waist is a drawstring in an inner casing, both also made from bias cut white cotton strips.  The neckline closes with a button and a little ribbon loop.  I used a tiny length of pale lavender satin ribbon for the loop because I didn’t have any white at the time, and it’s always bugged me that it’s not white.  Not so much that I’ve ever changed it, though!! so I guess it’s not that much of an annoyance to me, reeeally.  You can’t even see the ribbon when it’s buttoned up anyway  🙂
It’s still going strong, probably because it doesn’t get worn a whole bunch!  but I’ll never toss it out.  It’s nice to have as a hot weather “cardi”, for when I want to look smart.  And I’ve discovered it goes really nicely with these cut-out ballet flats… (woot)

Details:
Top; my own design, embroidered cut-out linen
Dress; Burda 8071, of pale blue silk, details here
Shoes; c/o Misano

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You can leave your hat on…

I’ve made a hat.
I used Vogue 8844, and the fabric is a soft ivory
corduroy, harvested from a pair of Cassie’s old worn-out jeans that has been
living in my good sammies pile for the past four or five years.   As evidenced by that half gone
leg there, these jeans were also the source of the White parliament, pictured here…
The hat is lined with blue and ivory striped stuff
leftover from Sam’s stripe-y shirt, and the inner seam finished with white grosgrain
ribbon.  

You know that very stiff, heavyweight,
iron-on interfacing? that is useful about once in a blue moon?  I’ve had a huge length sitting
untouched in my stash for many many years.  Well, I guess we must have had a blue moon since I managed
to use a bit in this project.  The
hat pieces are all interfaced with this stuff.

I felt pretty good about getting all of the hat
pieces cut out from the jeans. 
Most of the pattern pieces were too big to cut out in one piece, on the
grain and with the nap of the corduroy (they all are, btw… self pat on the
back)  So I had to do a bit of
piecing.  You can see some of the
seams in this picture, but I’m OK with those seams.  I feel too smugly virtuous about re-using old textiles to
feel bad about a few extra seams in a thing!  Eco-smugness; don’t you just hate that biz  😉
I
wondered about the sizes, which is partially
why I decided to use a re-cycled textile for my first time making this pattern…
not the main reason, I am firmly
committed to mindfully re-using old textiles when I can.  But anyway, about the sizing;
My
head measurement almost exactly corresponded to the S, so I made this
size.  And I couldn’t be more
thrilled with the fit, it cups my scone snugly and is neither tight nor
loose.  There was a brisk-ish breeze
on the beach the day I wore my hat for the first time and photographed it here,
and it stayed firmly and comfortably in place.  I never felt it was in danger of flying away!
The sizing
in this pattern works, y’all!!!

incidentally there is a just-there dog in the below picture  😉
Some advice for those wishing to re-purpose those
long skinny jeans leg pieces into a new sewing project requiring wider pieces?  I recommend doing all the piecing for
each component, using your pattern piece as a rough guide as to where and how
much to add on, and leaving at least
a few centimetres leeway around all the edges.  Stick religiously to cutting the joining edges and sewing
seams along the grainline of the fabric AND ensure fabric nap is consistent.   After sewing pieces together, lay the patchworked piece down flat
and only then accurately cut out the
pattern piece.  This way is much
easier than accurately cutting out little part-pieces and then trying to join
them together to fit the pattern piece. 
J
Details:
Hat; Vogue 8844, ivory corduroy
Top; the bamboo shoot top, Pattern Magic by Tomoko
Nakamichi, white linen, details here
Shorts; Burda 7723 slightly modified, embroidered
yellow cotton, details here
Pattern
Description:
Four
lined hats, each offered in XS, S, M and L.  A; contrast lining, D; contrast band and bow.
Pattern
Sizing:
XS 52cm
(20.5 in), S 55cm (21.5 in); M 57cm (22.5 in); L 60cm (23.5 in)  I made the S.
Did
it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished
sewing it?
Yes. I
made view C, leaving off the chin straps.
Were
the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What
did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It is
a nice stylish hat, easy to make.  The
slightly shaped top and crown lend a chic, vaguely Indiana Jones-ish air to the
hat.
Really,
there is absolutely nothing to dislike about this pattern; it’s a hat, and it
works!
Fabric
Used:
Cotton
corduroy
Pattern
alterations or any design changes you made:
None.  But if a wider brimmed hat was desired;
it would be a cinch to just add a few centimeters on to the outer edge of the
brim curve to achieve this.
Would
you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I
expect so, and yes  🙂
Conclusion:
This
is a great basic pattern which I think will be very useful. I made mine in
ivory corduroy for a summery-looking, wide-brimmed sunhat, but as illustrated
on the pattern envelope it would work equally well made up in tweed or a richly coloured
velvet or some other winter appropriate fabric to make a smart version for
winter.  
let’s play spot the dog again
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Blue denim dress; 6 different ways

I made this cotton denim/chambray dress using Vogue 1152 about two and a half years ago.  It first appeared on the blog, along with my review of this pattern here, and it has always been a favourite player in my wardrobe.  The fabric is hard-wearing and casually comfortable, crinkles naturally and charmingly.  Comfort dressing, yes!
It’s appeared here on the blog a whole tonne of times already, in daily outfit photos, in the me-made months.  In this year I’ve pledged to wear exclusively my own handmade clothes bar the shoes, these are some of the ways in which I can mix and match the dress.
Actually, up until now rtw tights or maybe gloves have slipped into the equation… but not this time!  Whoo hoo!  I have linked to the construction posts of everything else I am wearing here.

At left;  committing the double denim crime… I’m wearing the dress layered over with a chambray shirt made of the same fabric, my scrumply Pattern Magic charcoal grey, spiral leggings and ankle boots.  Below right; what’s this? double denim again!  Worn with my denim-look tights, green knitted hoodie and knotted blue scarf.  Incidentally, who ever said blue and green should never be seen?? I wear blue and green together all the time!

chambray1
Below left;  yes, well, I do love the layered look  🙂  Here, a longline lace skirt does petticoat duty underneath the skirt, and a classic navy blue silk blazer pulls it all together smartly.  Raspberry pink sandals add a touch of cheerful colour.
Below right; for a more casual ensemble, this little jean jacket hoodie gives a more laidback sporty vibe to the dress.  It might not have appeared on my blog every often, but this little jacket is a favourite of mine already!
Below left; I do like to wear dresses over jeans sometimes, how they become transformed into a tunic. The colour of these ivory flared jeans picks up and accentuates the four rows of ivory piping on the bodice of the dress.  Below right; blue-and-green together again!  The dress is actually quite low-cut, so if I am going out where actual people might see me I will often stop to grab a scarf to throw on over the decolletage.  Adds some interesting colour, and saves blushes!  In this case I’m wearing two scarves twisted togethchambray2er to get a bit more colour happening… turquoise silk chiffon, and cobalt blue knotted jersey scarves.  Green and cobalt ballet flats echo the same colours.
chambray3

These are just some of the different ways in which the dress can be mixed and matched to suit all the seasons.  Today I’m wearing the last aquatically-hued outfit, with the blue and green scarves and ballet flats, and I’m looking forward to wearing the others as the weather cools down more.  I’m rather chuffed that I could come up with all-rtw-free, workable outfits that I actually like!

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