Tag Archives: Sleeve

millennial holiday

I made a new dress for myself.. using this super cute cotton … it’s called Millennial Holiday, which I have to confess gave me a real laugh!  But isn’t it beautiful.. those happy, sunny and joyful colours, gorgeous girls wandering about under palm trees in their trend-tastic outfits, walking their dogs, drinks in hand… such a fun and happy print!

It’s another Nerida Hansen fabric – and yes, I’ve been extremely naughty adding new fabrics to my stash whilst not having “consumed” the promised 30m from my stash yet.  I just don’t feel like getting upset with myself over it though.

 

The pattern is also another Nerida Hansen one; the Half Sleeve Dress… by the way, the links above lead to the products but they are not affiliate links and I am not getting paid for these posts.  I wish! haha.

I did a slight modification that I that I thought gave it a nice little extra visual interest… the sleeve hem is finished with a facing; I cut 4 of these and made a “cuff” for each sleeve instead of putting the facing invisibly inside.  The cuff has the seam inside between the sleeve and the cuff, and I hand stitched the cuff to the sleeve in a few spots to secure it in place.  I love how this looks!

I used my circa 2022 on the sleeve this time, because it seemed like a better spot than the back of the neck I’d used for my previous 2022 makes.  I felt like it would be a bit invisible in that location, in this print.

I’m very happy with this super sweet and cheerful dress!  As well as the fact that the colours are absolutely gorgeous, the girls make me smile, and the shape and style is so perfectly suited to my current beach/dogwalking lifestyle.  What more could one hope for in a dress  🙂

I’ve got several things to blog here, immediately, because I’ve been shamefully neglectful of my poor little blog.  Life has just got so busy lately, I know I know…  I hate excuses too; however, the thing is I’m babysitting my two beautiful grandchildren (separately) on two, sometimes three days a week, while Cassie and Kelly work; which is absolutely lovely although also quite tiring.  But I want to catch up  here too… time to embark upon a blogging onslaught.  You have been warned!

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Lucy Heartfilia

Cassie Lucy

Who is this??  I barely recognise my daughter in her fabulous cosplay outfit!  For ComicCon this year, Cassie decided she wanted to go as Lucy Heartfilia, from Fairy Tail; the anime/manga conceived by Hiro Mashima.  And she has been busy busy busy, working solidly on her costume… isn’t it gorgeous?!!  I think she looks absolutely amazing!

Lucy Heartfilia from Fairy Tail; artwork and character by Hiro Mashima

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And yes, Cassie’s costume is all made by herself, with just a few pattern adjustment and sewing suggestions by me.

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Patterns; adapted Burda 8175 for the skirt, and adapted Burda 8548 for the vest.  The corset top and the sleeves are self-drafted.  Actually, the “corset” top is more like an abbreviated bodice than a corset; with princess seams and unseen skinny gold shoulder straps, that are hidden underneath her vest, and closure is at the centre back by white hook and eye tape.  The sleeves are two pieced and double layered, with the white layer longer so it comes out at the bottom, and with elastic in a channel at the top so they stay up on her arms.  The long gold straps on the sleeves are purely decorative.  You want to see what the pattern piece for the sleeves looks like? No? well I shall show you anyway  😉

sleeve

You cut two of each per sleeve, so the bottom flared bit of the sleeve is almost a full circle.  A circle skirt for your arms! haha  And yes, she hemmed the lot too, I think she stayed up until the wee small hours doing that job!   The white and blue layers are joined together at the top with a casing for elastic, so they stay up on her arms.  The gold straps were sewn on afterwards, they’re pretty much decorative.  But don’t they look great!

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Fabric; quilting cotton from Spotlight.  Mainly chosen for the just-right colours, of course!

I’m so proud of her, because the whole costume is properly and beautifully made, and she did not take the easy way out in any part.

DSC_2658The dark navy blue, pleated skirt has an invisible zip closure and an interfaced facing.  I suggested she make it a little longer, so she could at least wear it as a normal skirt too; but no; the costume had to be as faithfully executed as possible!

Those keys are an integral part of Lucy’s costume, and a part of her character’s story.  Cassie was so thrilled when she spotted the key set in a store; and pounced… perfect for her costume!!  Belt; surreptitiously extracted from her brother’s wardrobe mwahaha.

The camisole/corset top was self-drafted to fit her perfectly, and it fits like a glove! and then she drew the lines for the blue heart and gold edging on her muslin and cut it up to get the individual pieces.  Meaning; they are not just appliquéd on but are all separate joined pieces; and the top is completely lined in white cotton.

Cassie as LucyShe used a blouse pattern for the vest, mainly because the collar was right for the costume; it had no collar stand and was the right shape and lay in the right spot.  The front and back pieces were easily modified to be a vest shape, and she individually drew out the gold edging pieces to fit, and with self-fabric facing throughout.

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Really, I am so proud that she put so much care, thought and diligence into making it and finishing it all off perfectly and beautifully.

Cassie as Lucy 3This is a character driven pose; it means “I’m watching and I’ve got your back”… and that symbol on her hand is also a key component to her character too.  I freehand drew it on for her this morning, because you know; right handed, and it had to be on her right hand! It’s in pink ballpoint pen.  I can’t wait to hear how her day was…. I’m sure she will be one of the best dressed at the convention!!  As we drove in to drop her off, we saw stormtroopers and a Joker strolling down the esplanade on their way to the convention, laugh!  It’s fantastic how everyone who goes makes a real effort to dress up in amazing costumes and really look the part… oooo I so wish I could be there to see all the costumes!!

Cassie as Lucy 2

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simple buttoned cuff

This is an understated little feature to jazz up the end of a plain sleeve.  It’s mainly decorative rather than useful, but I think it does look kinda cute  🙂
To add this, you will need to cut your sleeves tapered out a little wider at the  lower hem end to allow for the overlap.  Doesn’t need to be much, about 1.5cm (5/8″) at each side should be sufficient.
Cut a matching facing for each sleeve, with an allowance for the slit facing situated in the centre.  Mine is 6cm (2 3/8″) deep for a finished depth of 5cm (2″) , and the slit facing is 7cm (2 3/4″) wide and 13cm  (5″) long for a finished slit length of 9cm (3 1/2″).

Interface, finish the outer edge, stitch the short sleeve seam together.

Pin to sleeve edge, right sides together, aligning the seams.
Mark the line of the slit on the wrong side of the facing and pin along its length.

Turn the sleeve so the facing is inside the tube of the sleeve and stitch.  btw, always, but always! stitch in the inside of a tube or closed “circle” of any kind, sleeve, leg, armscye, whatever…  otherwise you are bound to soon be spending quality time with your unpicker when you find you’ve inadvertently caught the opposite side in there somewhere.   Yeah, we’ve all been there, right?!

Cut up the middle of the slit stitching, snipping into the corners at the top in a little V shaped snip.

Turn out and understitch the sides of the slip and the sleeve hem as far as possible.  
To help keep the facing tucked up inside the sleeve and not fall out, invisibly slip stitch the outer edge of the facing to the sleeve.  Only scant, widely spaced stitches are really necessary here.

And; buttonhole, button and done!

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