Tag Archives: Vogue 1247

Red velveteen skirt; 6 different ways

 

A big
fashion trend around about these parts currently is the red jeans trend.
It is HUGE-o-rama!  I do like it too..  however since my
husband bought a pair of bright red jeans for himself while in Milan and my daughter
has since bought a pair for herself too; so now I cannot possibly
follow along literally myself without us running the risk of
bobbing about the house looking like a little flock of Santa’s
helpers… but luckily I already have my ombre-dyed red velveteen skirt in the wardrobe; mwahaha.   Trend box ticked!  Well sorta.  It is to my
satisfaction, anyway.
In
Milan I noticed the most successful red jeans combos were with a very neutral,
or at least a very conservative top; the better to tone down the woa!-ness of
those eye-catching legs and avoid clown territory, and I think mixing and
matching an in-your-face colour or print skirt follows the same principles.  I tend to pair the red skirt with very
bland or classic garments, or just very occasionally with a colourful top if
I’m in that sort of mood.
Below:
at left; a classic boat-neck navy and white striped Tshirt is without a doubt
the most popular pairing with red jeans I have seen here in Perth.  That combo is sooooo hot right
now.  Rather French I think with little white
sand shoes, and fortunately I happen to have red leggings too… At right;
a men’s styled denim shirt is another perennial classic, which works well with the red skirt peeping out under, and smartened up with chunky high-heeled caramel wedges.
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Below:
at left; a flash of crimson from under a long-line cardigan adds a spot
of cheer to an all-charcoal winter-y outfit, and at right; on a day when one is
feeling particularly bubbly, a bright tunic top and ballet flats matches the strength of primary colour in the skirt
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Below: at
left; the freshness of white, the rumpled crispness of linen and unusual
styling of this shirt is a total counterpoint to the rich colour, plush velveteen
texture and very simple silhouette of the skirt.  I really love all the contrasts in this outfit here… and at
right; I hope you’re not bored with this orange top, since I do tend to wear it a lot!!  I guess maybe it deserves its own 6-way post one of these days… except it’s been seen a tonne of times already, maybe I’ve run out of fresh combos!  Obviously it is another very versatile player in my wardrobe!
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Traditionally I’ve considered red to be a primadonna colour that is quite difficult to mix and match, but I have enjoyed playing with this little red skirt.  Which way would you be wearing it?

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Pomegranate

Don’t worry if you don’t “get” the title of this post; that’s an in-house joke…  😉
I have made another birthday shirt, this one for Mum.
The pattern is Vogue 1247.  Yup.  This is the seventh butterfly to emerge from this particular pattern and wing gracefully away from my sewing machine.  Yowzer.  This could be a record, even for Miss Repetitive (ie. me)….
Man.  I need to traverse fresh paddocks.
But in the meantime, Mum had mentioned she really like this top, so …  🙂
Mum tried on the two versions of this top I had made for myself and decided she liked the fit so I just made the same size and lengthened it by about 2.5cm at her request.
The fabric is is Rowan’s shot cotton in Granite, with a pink warp and a periwinkle blue weft.

All the seams are French seams, and I did the lower hem differently this time… the way it is explained in the pattern is just slightly on the unnecessarily-difficult side in my opinion, when it needn’t be.  Instead of the stay-stiching and the trimming, I just folded a narrow hem under twice, pressed, pinned and stitched.  So much more simple, and yes, it was a heck of a lot easier to turn under too!
Mum made her own white trousers, and her scarf is Metalicus.

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Keeping the lace pure and undarted in a fitted skirt

My lace design has regular repeating rows of curlicues, scrolls and flower motifs that I felt would have been spoiled by waist shaping darts; also the lace fabric is quite thick and darts would not have sat nice and flat on the inside.  Plus, they would have been visible through the wide holes in the lace.  
SO, I aimed to eliminate the darts from my skirt and maintain the integrity of the rows of repeating motifs in the design.

Thank you so much to Robyn and Sharon who asked  🙂
And I should mention straight off that I learnt this process from using Tomoko Nakamichi’s Pattern Magic books of course…the point of which is to learn how to manipulate a sloper and fabrics in order to achieve a desired effect.  I probably say that each and every time I mention the books, so please forgive me for repeating myself.  I guess I just love this sort of thing since I am a bonafide maths and fashion and sewing nerd; three, not-irreconcilable passions that are wrapped up together and catered to in one neat package.  Working through the exercises has taught me loads about pattern manipulation.
Anyhow, without further ado…

I chose the skirt pattern Vogue 1247 as a starting point because:
a.  I have used it a few times already and am happy with the fit.
b.  It has only one shaping dart on each side of the front and the back, and obviously one dart is way easier to eliminate than two.
c.  It has a high straight waistband that I could transform into a yoke fairly easily.  A waistband or yoke was an essential component to stabilise the lace at the top of the skirt.
d.  It is a reasonably straight little skirt, enabling me to easily match up the lace motifs down each side seam as well.

I am showing the process using the front pattern piece only… exactly the same process applies to the back piece.
I usually use old newspaper to make up my pattern modifications, but just in honour of taking photos today I have used some nice plain brown paper instead.  Yah I know, so classy  😉

Draw the pattern piece with the dart marked.

Mark a horizontal line from the point of the dart extending out to the side edge.

Cut along the outside edge of the dart.

Cut along the horizontal line from the side edge to the point of the dart.

Rotate the top side edge into the centre to close the dart, and tape it closed.

Just to visually simplify the next step I’ve traced off a new paper piece from this new, dartless skirt front piece….

Now, my lace had straight, horizontal straight rows of motifs.. to indicate how this appears on my paper pattern piece I have marked some horizontal straight rows in red…. Now, see how the sides of the skirt curve up quite dramatically from the centre front?    The visual effect of the curving row of lace, even though it is apparent curving and not actual curving; is rather unflattering imo and would look messy and chaotic.  So, I wanted the top of the skirt to be cut in a straight horizontal line, to preserve the straight line of the lace design.

Cut off that top side curve.

The lower skirt piece remaining is your new skirt front piece.  The curved piece cut off the top is used to create the waistband/yoke section as below…

The waistband of Vogue 1247 is a straight waistband; trace a new waistband including seam allowances.  

Transfer the top side curve markings to it.. this will be the new curved side seam of the waistband/yoke.

Extend the curve up to the top of the desired yoke/waistband height; then freehand draw it a bit higher and then curve it down to join onto the waistband top, to square off that top corner.

This process results in a dartless skirt with a straight top edge that preserves the horizontal rows in the lace… and with a straight waistband shaped into the side edges.
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All laced up with nowhere to go

I’m joking… of course I’ve got lots of nice places to go  🙂
I’ve made a lace skirt.
My very luvverly, very perceptive friends again gave me a Fabulous Fabrics voucher for my birthday.  Ohhh, they know me so well  😀
I try to do justice to their annual awesomeness by adding something appropriately beautiful and worthy to my wardrobe… last year’s voucher became the red dress, my favourite cocktail number; and then the spiral leggings.  Ok, the leggings were not-so classic but nonetheless a very designer-y perennial and something I am still pretty pleased with.
Anyhoo, I’m returning to the classics with this year’s birthday voucher … ta da.
I used my voucher for this pale latte coloured, heavily configured lace and a length of caramel coloured silk charmeuse for the lining/underlining.  For the waistband I used a piece of grey/beige handkerchief linen leftover from a little something else I have made very recently; that has not appeared here on my blog yet … it’s kind of a secret for the moment.  To be appearing in due course  😉
The shapes of the pieces in this skirt are kind of based on those of a beautiful Chanel skirt I checked out while we were in Milan.  I saw a skirt of heavily configured lace like mine, fitted but with no waist shaping darts, all the shaping in the side seams so as to minimally disturb the lace design, and a shaped, narrow yoke/waistband.  I saw and I liked.  I took note.

I used Vogue 1247… !  yah, you’d never have guessed, right?  🙂  The pattern has been fairly drastically altered: with the pieces spliced together, minus the pockets and re-configured to eliminate the waist shaping darts.  The dart allowance has instead been removed from the side edges so as to not spoil the lace design; also the pattern normally features a high straight waistband, and I have lowered this a touch and shaped it into the waist also, so it is more like a narrow yoke than a waistband.  

This is a great solution to the dilemma of fitting a lace skirt with minimal marring of the lace design.
The top of the skirt sits lower, at my natural waist.  The centre back seam has the invisible zip closure, and is a straight seam with perfectly matched lace motifs.  I hand-basted the zip in place, and the seam before machine stitching, in order to match up the lace motifs as well as I could.

The silk charmeuse underlining/lining skirt has all French seams.  Instead of sewing the darts in place I folded the dart allowances into pleats which are just folded at the top and stitched in the seam allowance.  This is a better way of treating the darts in a skirt lining; less strain on the fabric.  This is another feature I’ve seen in high-end skirts.

I wore it for its maiden voyage here in a formal ensemble to go to a Christmas function; showing it off, tizzying it up y’know  😉   but I will also treat this as an everyday little thing, grunge-ing it down with casual loose tops.  I’m picturing it with my khaki army shirt, or my billow-y white shirt.  I’m very partial to that high/low look y’know.  Very me.  🙂
Toodles, friends!

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247 heavily modified, latte lace with caramel silk charmeuse lining and linen waistband, my review of this pattern here
Blouse; Vogue 1170, ivory silk charmeuse, details and my review of this pattern here
Shoes; Misano

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Blood Orange

Is it a given that all my Vogue
1247 tops will have citrus-y nomenclature enforced on them? 
First clementine, and then blood orange……. aaaaand theeeeeeen?
We shall see, we shall see about that….   ;D
Anyhoo, it was always a given that there will be more of these tops in my life.  Now the weather is warming up beeeayoutifully I dug the pattern out again…. there really should be some sort of award for best pattern of the year or something.  Oh, that’s right! there is and this pattern is!
Fancy that!
So, what you may not realise straight away, but
which I shall hasten to enlighten you asap, is that this is not just the same
pattern as my first clementine version, but actually the very same fabric too.  Yup, the very same!  Except that it has been dyed with iDye in Brown, … to imbue the original pinky-orange with the deep, rich, sophisticated mahogany that awaits one inside a blood orange.  The warp and the weft; originally a light pumpkin and a bright neon orange, picked up the brown dye to become nutmeg brown and burgundy respectively…
This same fabric also played a supporting role in
this post too, providing an appropriately, complex-ly colourful backdrop to some also dyed underthingies.
Now it has shed its one
dimensional role as just a prettily colourful piece of fabric folded in the stash,
and join instead the brave new 3D world of Things One Actually Puts On.
So, fronties; backies.  Because of a lack of fabric I cut the back pieces on a centre fold.
The pointies meet up just exactly as they should…
all French seams-ies…
Lingerie strappy thingies…. These were a gift from
the gorgeous Yoshimi.  Thank you
Yoshimi!
I didn’t realise at first, until I was filling in
the details bit I always put at the end of every post; that the skirt I am wearing
it with here is in with the same pattern as the top, and is also dyed with iDye in
Brown too.  Hmmm, predictable,
repetitive, stuck in a rut; or what?
Maybe I need to get me some new patterns, or new
dyes, or new ideas or something…
Kidding of course,  This pattern is da bomb!  This may not even be the
last version to be seen here on the blog this year….  stay
tuned!
Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247, red cotton velveteen, ombre dyed
with iDye in Brown, details here, and my review of this skirt pattern here
Shoes;  from Misano
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Sludgy little skirt; 6 different ways

I haven’t done one of these for a while! but that’s OK since I thought May and June came with somewhat of an overload of “daily outfits” posts, no?  😉
I am so thrilled with this little sludgy skirt, made using Vogue 1247 and originally posted about here, along with my review of this fab pattern.  In fact dressing it up in 6 different outfits felt a bit like cheating.  It is the perfect basic for my tastes… a plain little skirt is my favoured skirt silhouette,  and this deep purple-y brown shade I achieved through over-dyeing is a favoured neutral in my palette that goes with just about everything I own.  The only reservation I have is the length! it is just a touch on the short side even though my version is 5cm longer than the designer intended.  I wore it several times during the warmer months but always felt a tad self-conscious about bending over, which with my doggy, household-y lifestyle is pretty ridiculous.  However, in the winter months with tights, it has really come into its own!
These are all outfits I have worn over the past few weeks and I took each photo on the day I wore it.  With the exception of this first very summery one, natch.  I just put that one in for some seasonal variety…

Below: at left; the top and the skirt from Vogue 1247 worn both together, how the designer intended.  I just love the silhouette of this outfit, the oversized block-y top is perfectly balanced out by the form-fitting, plain little mini underneath.  There is no doubt in my mind I will make this skirt and this top up again in different fabrics, too!  I am totally not surprised that Pattern Review named this pattern one of the patterns of the year! At right; with my crazy patterned tights, and my twisty Pattern magic top, the skirt is a solid and unobtrusive little block of plainness to separate and balance out each of these eye-catching garments.

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Below: at left; during a recent discussion with friends, someone remarked that the only two colours that did not go together were brown and grey.  I immediately became slightly obsessed with the thought of wearing those two colours together successfully.  I really love this outfit.  I found it interesting that the other greys in my outfit really brought out the purple in the skirt.  At right; the warm chocolate is nice and cosy-looking when worn with a warm all reddy-purple-y-raspberry palette.

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Below: at left; The skirt blends in with an all-chocolate ensemble with just an expected touch of bright colour in a shocking pink pair of tights.  Random fact: I actually garnered a wolf-whistle from a passing truck in this outfit… ha!   😀  And at right; I saw a similar outfit to this in Australian Vogue magazine and tried to emulate it with my own wardrobe.  I really liked this, the combination of a casual chambray shirt with the mini and lace-up heels has a hip, comfy and pretty cool vibe, I thought.  The skirt’s plain shape means it looks equally good with shirts tucked in, or left hanging out.  I love this versatility in a skirt.

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Which outfit here do you like the best?  Just for interest’s sake I am wearing the all raspberry hued outfit today.  Except it was pretty nippy earlier this morning, so gloves were on!

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Ombre dyed velveteen skirt

So, this is the little dyeing experiment I was referring to; I finished it last night and just couldn’t wait to wear it today!
My new skirt!
I made the skirt using Vogue 1247, of bright lipstick-red cotton velveteen from Spotlight.  I lengthened the lower skirt pieces of the pattern by …er, lots…  😀  and made a separate full lining of rusty red polyacetate from Fabulous Fabrics, by splicing the upper and lower skirt pattern pieces together.  

The waistband is made less bulky, by joining a long strip of the interfaced fashion fabric, cotton velveteen, to a long strip of lightweight cotton for the waistband facing.  I used Rowan shot cotton in Ginger, a small piece of the leftovers from the shirt I made for my Dad here.  

After construction of the skirt was complete, I dip dyed it from the top in a dye bath of 1/4 tsp iDye Brown.  I did not take any pictures of the dyeing process this time, but this is what I did; I stood holding the hem of the skirt and dipped it up and down slowly and consistently in the boiling dye bath, sometimes dipping deeply, sometimes shallowly, different depths each time, constantly checking to see how the ombre was taking effect; for as long as my arms could take it.  In this case, approximately 25 mins before my muscles were screaming  “OMG; STOOOOP!” Then I took it over to the laundry trough for a thorough rinsing.  I laid the skirt flat on a towel and gently pulled it into shape to dry completely overnight.
I am completely and utterly thrilled with how it turned out!
To my mind, the colour transformation of that deep purple-y rustiness in the top section fading to a rich ruby crimson lends the skirt a classiness that it did not have as a plain lipstick-red skirt.
below; the front view of the skirt, before dyeing.  Not so interesting…?  compare this to the above photo; the back view of the skirt after dyeing.  Much more interesting, yes  🙂

I chose to dip-dye the skirt upside down because I wanted to have the darker section at the waistline fading down to the lighter shade.  I know this is the opposite to most dip-dyeing seen around about but I really like it like this.  I think it is a more slimming effect than if the waist band was bright red deepening down in colour to a darker hemline. 
If you’re interested in dip dyeing, I once did a rough kind of tutorial here, which is a good method for if you don’t think your arms have the stamina for 25 minutes of dipping.  And I wouldn’t blame you one bit, my arms are aching something awful today!  A sopping wet lined velveteen skirt is hea-e-evy!

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247, red cotton velveteen dip-dyed in 1/2 tsp iDye in Brown  (my review of this skirt pattern here)
Tshirt; self-drafted, white cotton dyed with iDye in both Red and Brown, details here
Scarf; basically a very long piece of raspberry knit jersey, seen first here
Cardigan; knitted by me, Jo Sharp’s Knitted Cardigan with the addition of knitted lace edging on the sleeve hems, using Jo Sharp Soho Summer DK Cotton in Sapote (col 216), details here
Shoes; Betts & Betts Brazilian Collection (seriously; these are older than my children!)

Pockets, in action.  Gotta love that…

Picture taken around 12.30pm;  Temperature at the time 21C.
Overnight low: 14C; Today’s high: 21C 
Had a rainy storm overnight, but has been fine all day

Today is another me-made bonus day! my husband is again wearing a shirt that I made for him!  and btw, I promise that I am not putting in any requests that my family wears my stuff this month.  They probably wouldn’t pay attention even if I did  🙂  The “bonus days” I am showing here are actually normal for my family; and their clothes are, as they always are, being spontaneously chosen by them to wear.  I am just including them here for fun

Craig’s shirt; Burda 7767 modified, blue linen, details here

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Curtaining skirt

It looks plain, but my new skirt has one fun and unusual little fact about its origins.
The fabric was part of the bundle of fabrics given to me by my friend C from her late mother’s stash.  That’s not the unusual little fact, btw…  actually, it seems like a lot of my new item posts start out with that statement, and yes, I fully appreciate my very lovely friend to give to me such a marvellous gift of fabric, and I am roaring through it at a most satisfying rate! Since using up this little bit I still have about four or five choice pieces left…
But about this piece; it is curtaining fabric.  Complete with the rubber black-out backing and all…  I know, right?!  cue images of sister Maria ripping down the nursery curtains in the Sound of  Music…  but waste not want not, hmm?  There was only quite a small piece of it, which along with the heavy texture dictated a skirt.
I decided to use my latest favourite skirt pattern, the one from Vogue 1247.  Every version of this skirt I have seen on the internet is extremely cute, and I can sense this is going to become another staple pattern for me too…  I love the way it is just like an ordinary little skirt, but has those fabulously unexpected pockets in the front.  Who would have thought pockets in such an unlikely place could be so successful?!
A commenter noted that one couldn’t put anything bulky in the pockets, and I agree, but really you couldn’t put pockets anywhere on a little skirt like this and expect them to carry very much.  They are just about the best pockets one could even think of for a silhouette like this, imo.  I reckon this was a stroke of genius on the part of the designer.  They are perfectly fine for a hanky, a credit card, a mobile phone, and a house key, and really; what more does a lady need?
I added about 10cm to the length of the lower skirt pieces, and flared them just very slightly towards the hemline (approx 1.5cm each side?); and still managed to get all the main pieces of the skirt out of the piece of fabric, but I had to cut the waistband out of other fabric.  For this I used heavy and stiff delustred satin (leftover from my trench coat), and I also had to piece together the pocket lining with some of this same fabric.  The skirt is lined with the leftover poly satin that was also used to line my ivory trench coat… so really, the skirt is like part of a matching set with that trench coat!
Because the curtain fabric is really quite heavy, I hemmed with a strip of bias cut cotton; meaning less bulk because I didn’t have to turn the fabric under twice, plus a longer skirt.  Given how tiny this skirt is already, I was aiming to get as much length as possible here!
Given my mad passion for ivory and other neutrals, methinks this is going to become a much worn little thing this winter…  bring it on!

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247 lengthened and lined, heavy cream curtaining fabric, ivory delustred satin waistband, ivory satin lining, my review of this pattern here
Shirt; Burda 7767 modified, khaki linen, details here
Sandals; akiel, from an op shop

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