Tag Archives: Waffle Patterns

some snuggly corduroy goodness…

I’ve made a few new things!

I was sent a length of lovely snuggly corduroy from Minerva; it is soft, quite lightweight, fluid and drapey and a little fluffy, and of course the most gorgeous and delicious shade of burnt orange/terracotta imaginable!  this very stuff, in fact…

Soooo happy with my pocket-elicious new ensemble!  hmmm, why the new (non)word, you might ask?  Well, because there are SO many pockets on my newest outfit that it’s borderline ridiculous…  AND I LOVE IT!!!!!

Patterns; I really love the practicality, utilitarian urban vibe of Waffle Patterns and have bought quite a few… now I can shift a few more off my list of “want to makes”  and into the list of “yay finally made!”  namely the Arare hoodie and the Anzu skirt.

Both these patterns come with a lot of variations; the Arare hoodie can be a hoodie or just have a high collar, and you can do either front welt pockets or a big kangaroo pocket with flap.  I opted for the hoodie and the welt pockets, and there’s also a little sleeve pocket.  That’s where I stuck my circa 2022 label  🙂

I didn’t really have enough fabric to line the hood, well not if I wanted to make the skirt too, which I most definitely did!  so I used some nice, autumnal floral viscose from Mum’s stash … given to me when she cleared it out a few months ago.  I really love how this looks peeping out inside the hoodie  🙂 I also used this same fabric to line the pockets.  I didn’t add a cord to the hood mostly because I didn’t have the perfect coloured cord;  I did put in the eyelets though, just in case that perfectly matching cord ever does show up!

I’ve had a tendency in the past to do welt pockets my own way… or a way that is a conglomeration of various big 4 patterns I’ve used over the years… the welt pockets on the Arare were a little different and took a little getting my head around.  And they turned out absolutely perfect!  I’m thrilled with how well they turned out.

For the skirt… I opted for the knee length, zip-fronted option, with inner slanted hip pockets.  The other pocket options I went for were; the zip pocket, the “flap” pocket which comprises a bellows pocket with a partitioned off “non-flapped” section, three layered patch back pockets, and a double tool pocket.  So, I just had to pause to add this up… this make for a 13 pocketed ensemble.  I know right?!  It’s crazy!  And amazing!

Now, while I really wanted to make the skirt in this corduroy it was actually a little on the lightweight side to make a good cargo skirt.  I applied lightweight fusible interfacing to every piece and this gave the perfect amount of stability to make this structured design work well.  This had the slightly unfortunate side effect of make the wrong side of the fabric a jarring shade of white, obviously… now I know you don’t really see inside a skirt to notice something like this but it still bothered me.  So I lined it with a dark brown lining fabric…. kinda overkill but it’s nicer like this.

One thing I should mention; I had to substantially alter the top of the back skirt piece.  I’m not sure if I did something wrong at some earlier point, or whether it’s something to do with my slight sway back; but the back bulged in a very weird way before I scooped out a considerable crescent from the skirt back, before adding the yoke.  And here’s a handy tip; when making any skirt at all I’ve always found it a good idea to try on for fit BEFORE you’re about to embark on any substantial seam finish and/or topstitching/flat-felling and/or overlocking raw seam allowances together.   It’s SO much easier to make adjustments without having to unpick any of this!  Ask me how I know! spoiler alert, I learnt the hard way…

Although it hasn’t shown up too well in any of my photos because it’s in a toning caramel colour; there is masses of topstitching in this outfit.  I used up almost an entire roll of upholstery thread!

I’m rather thrilled at how very 70’s this outfit turned out!  really that’s my only excuse for some of these poses…. honestly I don’t really go out of my way to make stuff that’s very obviously costume-y but am always quite chuffed when something does have an unexpectedly unusual and possibly even unfashionable flavour to it!

I shall sign off with a few pocket details…

the “flap pocket”

the “zip pocket”

and lastly but most importantly of all, my darling little grandson wanting to join in posing with me…

other me-made items worn in this post:

  1. my raspberry Paprika patterns Jade mini skirt
  2. my forest green merino, long sleeved t-shirt
  3. self-drafted tights
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my blue corduroy skirt

ok sure, I’ve made a few blue skirts before, and I’ve made a few corduroy skirts before, and I’ve even made a few blue corduroy skirts before too… And now I’m welcoming a new one to my wardrobe!  The best thing about this one?  a totally awesome new pocket!!  It’s almost more like a little bag than a pocket, and I could not love that idea more!

Cassie bought this very thin, lightweight, blue cotton corduroy from Tessuti fabrics for me, on my behalf, when she went over to Melbourne on a holiday with her now husband D… it’s quite lovely and it’s languished in my stash for way too long!  I made it one of my “use 12” for this year as a way of forcing myself to finally make something with it.  It’s crazy, but I often struggle with using my favourite fabrics, preferring somehow to make things with fabric I don’t like very much.  It’s like I’m afraid of ruining my favourites… yes I’m trying to get over this…

The pattern is Vogue 1170 a pattern I’ve used several times before, and the ultra cool hip holster pocket is from the Anzu cargo skirt pattern by Waffle Patterns.  I really love this pattern and basically bought it as soon as it was released!  I would really like to make cargo skirt as per the pattern sometime, when I have the appropriate fabric.  Mmm hmmm; as silly as this sounds, because I still feel like I have masses of fabric, I don’t actually have any appropriate fabric in my stash.  AMAZING!!  I’m really trying to use only stash fabric for the time being, as much as possible.  Hey, if I change my mind about this restriction, then I change my mind.

I added a lining, using my own personal skirt block… and some pretty aquamarine teal polyacetate fabric that was already in my stash too.  The only thing I had to buy was the zip!

This is the latest thing in my proposed “use 12” for this year…

If you’d like to check out a quick and fun video of the making of this skirt, then please consider having a squizz at my video on my youtube channel… I even worked out how to add music this time, yay!

I’m wearing it here with two of my recently made merino Nettie tees, my self-drafted tights, and boots bought with a birthday voucher given to me by my friends.

https://youtu.be/YzN8_s3kbC4

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khaki Tosti jacket

sidewaffle tostiHello!
For ages I’ve wanted to replace my old beloved khaki ripstop army-style jacket… I LOVED that thing and even did a 6 different ways post on it once.  At some point I decided I’d made the sleeves just a smidgeon too short so with some sadness passed it on to Cassie.  Who loves it equally, and wears it often… and I found myself pining for it all over again whenever I saw her wearing it!

Finally I’ve got around to making another one for ME!

tosti frontI just adore jackets with tonnes of hardware and detailing, like zips and lots of different bits and bobs and interesting pockets.  So set about planning for this one to be chockablock with loads of that sort of thing.  I considered using the same Burda pattern I used for the previous one, but I had to make lots of additions/adjustments to that in order to make it the complex, feature-laden army-style jacket that I wanted, which is fine! but since making that one, lots of great patterns have popped up with all those features already incorporated into the pattern.  Eventually I settled upon the Tosti utility coat pattern by Yuki of Waffle Patterns, it had the detachable hood, the belt, tabs, the front zip placket for a separating zip, multitudes of pockets, in fact: everything I wanted.  I was really attracted to the variety of different pockets it had and was pretty determined to use each and every one of them in my jacket.  There are six different types of pockets!   an inner breast pocket, a sleeve pocket, two options for breast pockets and two options for hip pockets, and I used ’em all.  Cassie thought I was loopy putting four different pockets on the front of the jacket, but I stubbornly ploughed ahead because I love that mishmash look…   I know you’re not supposed to do ALL of them with the pattern, but I just wanted it!

Beware; pocket overload approaching…

 

Breast pockets:(L) inner welt pocket with flap; and (R) inner pocket with exposed zip closure

tosti pocketAtosti pocketB

Hip pockets; (L) bellows pocket with patch flap; and (R) patch pocket with exposed zip closure

tosti pocketC tosti pocketD

(left) patched sleeve pocket with exposed zip closure; and (right) inner breast pocket with double welt

tostipocketE tostipocketF

The fabrics: the khaki cotton ripstop was from some online fabric store in the US; and I can’t remember its name, sorry!  My neighbour Meggipeg and I went in together with a joint order.  The fabric was priced reasonably, but postage was horrendously and shockingly expensive… the trap!!… but at least I got the ripstop so that’s ok.  One of the saddest things ever is when Spotlight ceased stocking this stuff  *sob*

The plaid cotton flannelette I used for lining and all zips were from Spotlight, and I had to visit two stores to find them all! and the copper press studs were from both KnitWit and Spotlight  Yes, I had to visit a coupla stores to get enough of those too!  The belt buckle was harvested from an old belt.  Originally, I had decided I would put thin black fleece interlining in my jacket for some warmth, but once I had the lining made up I realised I wouldn’t need it.  The jacket is pretty warm enough already, and truthfully, if it was any warmer it actually wouldn’t be all that useful in our climate.

front tosti

back tostiThere is tonnes of topstitching all over, so satisfied that part of me that adores precision sewing.  I’m that weirdo that LOVES topstitching! and am pretty much totally and blissfully happy when I’m hunched over the machine, chugging along; churning out lines upon lines of precise, neatly and evenly spaced, stitching.  The wonderful thing about this ripstop is that the little squares in the weave of the fabric make precision stitching and lining up pieces to be perfectly square very very easy.

(L) belt loop; (R) shoulder tab.  Press studs from kits bought in KnitWit and Spotlight

tosti belt loop shoulder tabs

(L) collar with press studs for hood, (R) wrist tabs

tosti collar wrist tabs

No one  will ever see or notice this but me, but the plaid lining matches up all the way around #patternmatchingfreak

The lining appears a bit “blowsy” in this picture, due extra ease in the lining… many of the lining/shell seams have you make folds/pleats in the lining when stitching the lining to the shell, to account for the extra length.

lining

I’d cut a plaid lining for the hood too but decided upon a self-lined hood.  Less jarring in appearance when the hood is worn down.  Which, let’s face it, it most usually is!

Opening zip, and placket with press studs; (below) self-lined hood

tosti zip plackethood1

hood

I also made the belt, using a buckle harvested from off an old belt of Tim’s, and eyelets from a kit from Spotlight

belt

I posted lots of these progress pictures on instagram also, so I’m sorry for the doubling up.  But; you know instagram; it’s fabulous and I love it, but stuff gets “lost” in no time there since it’s not that easy going back to see things you posted a year ago…so I’m reproducing all those pictures here.  I know a lot of us seamsters have migrated pretty solidly to instagram now; in fact it seems fewer and fewer people are reading blogs and it could be that blogging like this is dead or at least heading towards comatose.  I mean, let’s be honest, how many people actually click over when you see the words “on the blog now, link in profile”?   Precious few… and that’s just the way of things, times change, people now are of the moment and often are only interested in one quick visual; and that’s all absolutely fine and ok and completely understandable.   I think though that I will still keep on with writing this blog anyway, just for my own benefit.  I want to keep going for the same reasons I started it; as a record of all my sewing projects, because I can search for and look up older things up here, and you can’t really do that over on instagram all that easily.

Hmmm, well that was a bit of a diversion there, sorry!  I’m writing a review of this pattern, but no point in reading it really.  It’s pretty glowing, because I absolutely LOVE this pattern; I thoroughly enjoyed making my jacket, and am totally enamoured of the final product.  Fair dinkum; I’m going to wear this to rags.

back1

Fun fact; after a week of FREEZING cold weather.. today, the day after I finished this jacket and wanted to wear it for the first time; of course today was then an unseasonably warm day.  Naturally!!  But you know what? I wore it anyway, mwahahaha.  Unco-operative weather! pfffft!  see what I care!  I wore it, and I roasted.  And I loved every minute of it!!

Details:

Jacket; the Tosti utility jacket by Waffle patterns, khaki cotton ripstop with plaid, brushed cotton lining
striped Tshirt; self drafted, details here
Skirt; Vogue 1247, cotton corduroy, originally yellow and dyed brown, details here
Tights, self-drafted, black stretch, details here
Shoes; made by me, details here

ootd

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