Monthly Archives: November 2011

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Khaki skinny jeans; 6 different ways

It’s hilarious to me now how when I had first set out to make these jeans I was slightly skeptical whether I would wear them much…  they have so become the backbone to so many outfits!  I think I was nervous about the skinniness of them; and whether I could even carry this look off.   But I came around!  I’ve worn them countless ways already on this blog… (I’ve just counted, they have appeared twelve times hehehe  :D, but trust me I’ve worn them stacks more!)  The firm but stretchy nature of the fabric make them comfortable and easy to wear, the very simple shape and the drab unobtrusiveness of the neutral colour mean they never steal the show, but just set off so much of what I’ve got, beautifully.  They have been incredibly useful in my wardrobe.
So for today I had a bit of a play at mixing them up a few more times…

Admittedly, during the winter I have worn them almost exclusively with my biker boots.  I really like the solidness of the boots visually counteracting the skinniness of the jeans above.  At left; air force blue along with the khaki, and my crochet scarf; at right, looking a bit more classic when worn with my Chanel-style jacket

The jeans are skinny enough to pass for tights when worn underneath my (current) favourite dress; at right and looking a bit smarter; for a splash of colour I’ve always loved the slightly military colour combination of red and khaki together.

At left; if I was heading out to a summery soiree the jeans set off an unusually styled little top and jewelled sandals; and more casually at right; I really like the simple contrast here, the sorta “modern-ness” of the plain jeans when worn with a romantically embroidered floaty ivory top.

Which outfit am I wearing today? well the weather is now delightfully warm and today might be their last gasp before the really hot weather hits, and I am wearing the last casual summery outfit with the ivory top.
Which look here do you like the best?

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Knot buttons; a tutorial

I made knotted buttons of self fabric for my Kelly-green cardi; and Gail asked for a how-to… well I had taken a few photos while I was making them but had sorta decided against posting a lengthy series of pictures in that post because I thought people might find it not interesting; so thank you Gail, for asking!
I saw this knot in a Vogue pattern (1107) and even though the Vogue instruction sheet has a nice computer-drawn set of diagrams, a lot cleaner and neater than my efforts here; I have re-drawn them because I’m not sure whether for me to photograph even one step from the Vogue pattern instruction sheet and put it here is trampling copyright (does anyone know??)  But just in case I am not going to even go there….!!  But I can’t see how a knot is “owned” by anyone so I did my own drawings and instructions and I hope they are clear enough.  It is not a particularly difficult knot.
Firstly I made two long spaghetti tubes of the fabric.  You make these by folding a 2.5cm (1″) x (roughly) 25cm (10″) long rectangle right sides together and sewing along one long edge in a narrow 6mm (1/4″) seam, cutting the two machine threads to be nice and long long long.  Trim the seam allowances of the tube and thread those long tail threads into a needle; and feed back through the tube to turn right side out (with the blunt end of the needle leading, for obvious reasons!)  to make a long narrow cord for knotting.

Now for the knot…
(Note: in each step; the new instruction is in bright green, with the previously executed steps in grey.)
Firstly hold the cord with your left hand with a short tail and loop the end over itself and to the right…

Then loop the long end back over the first loop again and under the first junction…

Thirdly; take that long end and weave it through the four loops of cord created in the first two steps; first over, then under, then over, and finally under and out…

Gradually tease closed and tighten the loops of the knot together to be a nice, firmly and evenly arranged knot.

One at a time, cut the ends, turn under and slipstitch the ends neatly and invisibly on the underneath of the knot.

Voila! C’est fini!

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A sleeveless top, con latte

I’ve made a new top!
This is the little top from Vogue 1248, made of a light cotton voile the colour of pale milky coffee, and with miniature metallic silver polka-dots dotted sweetly all over like a starry starry sky…
the most interesting feature of this top is that it has a triple collar.  This, I love.  How cool and easy is this idea? so simple and so cute and yet you don’t see multiple collars very often, if at all.  When I was planning the top, I thought how wonderful it would be to make the collars in different colours to really show off this feature but couldn’t find matching weight fabrics in colours I liked, and I vetoed as being too wasteful the idea of dyeing tiny little collar-sized pieces of fabric.  So in the end I took the easy route of just using all one fabric.  Next time… and yup, I am already plotting a next time, mwahaha (watch this space!)
The top also has snap-opening plackets both front and back, and I chose silver snaps to match the tiny silver dots on the fabric.
I’m not thrilled with the snaps… because my fabric is very very light and just may be too fragile for snaps, yikes!  Undoing the snaps I am veeery carefully and slowly prising them apart, absolutely terrified of ripping the fabric.  But this is completely my fault for not putting in heavy-duty enough interfacing to stabilise the plackets enough, something to bear in mind.
Another unusual feature about this little top; the two fronts and the two backs just go into the collar; with no shoulder joining seams, or any shoulder at all, for that matter!  So really my calling it a sleeveless top is not going far enough; it is more specifically a shoulderless as well as a sleeveless top.  I just went with “sleeveless” because; well, “sleeveless and shoulderless top” up in the blog post title is not super-succinct but is a bit of a mouthful and would have just befuddled and confused and had y’all going, “wha’?? no sleeves and no shoulders, well how can there be any top even left?”…. but yeah, one’s shoulders are bare too.  This will a good feature for summer in a hot hot climate like ours; just as long as one remembers to slather on that suncream before heading out.
Following the “finishing off as well as I can” policy; the princess seams are flat-felled, the side seams are French seams, and the armhole facings are edged with self-fabric HongKong seaming but with the fabric reversed so as to have the silver dots hidden inside.
(left; inside the top and clockwise; HongKong seaming around the facing, flat-felled princess seaming, French side seaming: at right; that interesting triple collar)

Details:
Top; Vogue 1248, pale coffee cotton batiste with tiny silver polka-dots
Skirt; Burdastyle 10/2010, 136, made of black suiting, details and my pattern review here
Shoes; Misano, bought from Labels boutique

Pattern Description:
Top: fitted front and back snap closing
Pattern Sizing:
4-10 in this envelope, I made a straight size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I totally adore the triple collar feature!!  Sooo cute!  Will be doing this one again for sure, and using different coloured fabrics to highlight the three collars next time…
The length is a nice one which allows the top to look equally good out loose as well as tucked in.
Fabric Used:
very lightweight cotton batiste
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn’t make any pattern alterations, but I did flat-felled seams on the princess seams, French seams at the side seams, and applied self-fabric HongKong seaming on the armhole facing edges.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I am already planning my next version in multiple fabrics, to show off that adorable triple-collared feature…!  I do recommend this cute and slightly unusual little top pattern to others too.
Conclusion:
Initially I was a little skeptical about this top pattern, as I tend to shy away from clothes which require special undergarments, but well, logically if you own a halter neck bra then you should wear it at least once in a while, no?  And I do love this cute little top, I think the shape is flattering, feminine and quite unusual.  My husband likes my shoulders on show like this, and I think the high neckline still gives the top a modest flavour and doesn’t make me feel too exposed so it is a win all round!

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Kelly-green cardigan

Remember how I mentioned fashioning a little cardi out of the leftovers from the ponytail top?  Well, here ’tis!
If I say so myself this was a minor miracle in cutting out; why? Well I originally had bought this Kelly green jersey to make a St Patrick’s Day thingy which was actually cut out but not made up.  It struck me early on in the piece that the finished garment would be tres hideous and could never ever been worn without inviting well-deserved mockery, so it was abandoned before any actual sewing was done.   However, the perfectly-good-for-something-if-only-I could-work-out-what-it-was fabric was too good; a great colour (as long as it was separated from the St Patrick’s Day concept)  and there was too much of it to just ruthlessly toss out.  Luckily the pieces I had cut out were big enough to get the Pattern Magic ponytail top, and there were still some reasonably good sized pieces and scraps left after that, so I played with them.  This is the result of my “play”; at my kind of “Play-Station”, if you will, hehe.  The back of the cardigan is quite short and the two fronts are quite skinny and so give a rather sex-ay decolletage, but y’know what? I like that.  I feel like the unusual shape is happily avant-garde and cool.

Something that may not be immediately apparent on first sight, but which amused me while I was making the cardi is this: the whole cardigan is made of just one fabric, and thread, and that is all.  I used pieces of the same fabric for all the trims, and the buttons and closures are all made of the self-fabric also.  Interesting little factoid, yes?
The closure is with long strips of self-fabric that were laid horizontally and topstitched down on the front of the cardi… as they go off the front edge these are faced with the same fabric (for stability and to lessen stretching through use) to make ribbon ties at the front.  The front opening edges of the cardi were decoratively finished with two separate long strips; the underneath one is a wider straight cut strip, and then with a pinked narrower strip sewn on top.  I’m really happy with the look of this, it is an interesting edge but still a unobtrusive as it is of the same fabric.  The pinked edges remind me of banksia leaves…

The front lower edges are left raw, and the back lower edge of the cardi was finished with a strip like this:  (I did this because the lower back edge is subject to stretching, and so this strip is cut on the grain to stabilise and strengthen this area)

The sleeve tabs were made in the same way as the front opening edge trim and faced with self-fabric facing, and I made knot buttons of the same fabric to decorate…

While making the trims and buttons, I also amused myself by comparing what I was doing to Chanel’s jackets, which famously are often edged with trims made of the self fabric in various incarnations.  So my own secret joke is to think of this as a Chanel-inspired cardi.  Of course there is no quilted lining and the hemline is not weighted and therefore no real resemblance at all to a Chanel jacket…! but well, I did say “inspired” and one has to use one’s imagination here!   Another little fact about Chanel’s earlier work is this: at a time when such fabric was considered only suitable for men’s underwear, her clothing was made of knit jersey … another tenuous little link, no? 
But all the oddly shaped pieces and non-classic silhouette are very un Chanel!

Details:
Cardigan; my own design, Kelly-green cotton jersey
Dress; Simplicity 3745 modified, pink lace and beige border lace, details here (this is my other pink lace dress and not the one from yesterday’s post; embarrassing to admit I have two pink lace dresses but this is my more casual everyday one so that makes it alright, yes?)
Petticoat; Burda 8071, pink silk satin, details here
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes

(it’s hard to know where to put your arms when you’re trying to show a side view, isn’t it?)
LATER EDIT: I got bored with the colour and dyed it brown… voila!
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In the pink; a cocktail dress

I came across this old thing when I was cleaning out my wardrobe…

hehehe
Well truthfully, it is a bit of an old thing, but obviously when I made it I put considerable time and effort into it (OK, I hope that that is obvious anyway 😀 ) … plus it is made of the very luxe-est fabrics that were jolly expensive!  I haven’t even worn it for a couple of years and can count on the fingers of one hand the functions we go to per year that are snazzy enough for it anyway!  Also feel like possibly it is a tad too… well… young? for me  :(( so sad to have to say that!  But I am happy to have moved on sartorially to a more sophisticated style now… but of course I am not tossing the dress out on to the Good Sammy’s pile!  Banish that thought!  Cassie might want to wear it one day.  Anyhoo since I haven’t put it up here on the blog yet then here it is having its turn.

(Later edit: I should have mentioned that this was made around 7-8 years ago now…)
Details:
Dress; partly Burda 8071, overdress of my own design, silk taffeta with embroidered and sequinned net overlay, and lined
Sandals; Sachi, bought from some little boutique in Melbourne

So; the nitty gritty…
The base dress was made using Burda 8071, of creamy/pale-pink silk taffeta.  Then an embroidered and sequinned pink net fabric was carefully cut and fitted to be an attached overlay dress. The embroidered and sequinned motifs on the pink net were lined up as to be exactly centred but offset on the front and back of the dress; so, the front has two motifs at the waist, whilst the back has one, and so on.  (I can remember this taking quite a bit of careful measuring) The net dress (being sheer) has French seams and is sandwiched between the dress and its lining at the neckline. (the lining is also Burda 8071, with the same silk taffeta bodice and a polyacetate skirt section).  The heavily and beautifully embroidered and sequinned border was left just as it is to form the lower edge of the overlay dress.
The bodice facing is part of a full dress lining, meaning the dress has three complete layers…  The dress has an invisible zip at the left side seam for closure, and the net overlay dress was hand-stitched inside the zip seam and the dress lining was turned under and slip stitched to the zip tape.  All the seams inside are turned inside the layers and there are no raw or seam edges visible inside the dress.  The hem of the base dress is hand slip-stitched, and the lining is machine stitched.
Once the dress and the overlay dress were finished; motifs from the remainder of the embroidered and sequinned overlay fabric were carefully snipped and hand-stitched together and to finish the front and back  bodice edges.  More of the net fabric was fashioned into sheer sleeves (also with French seams) and hand-stitched to the dress straps.  These themselves were then covered with more embroidered and sequinned motifs that were also arranged on the skinny straps and hand-stitched in place to hide it as much as possible.

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Thoughts on weeding out…

I did a big clean-out of my wardrobe on the weekend.   
Sounds silly, but cleaning out one’s wardrobe is an occasion accompanied by soul-searching.  We identify so much with our clothes; throwing out old garments is often throwing out memories and little bits of yourself, cathartic but a wee bit gut-wrenching.  I ended up transferring to the Good Sammy’s pile quite a lot; gone are the garments that I am feeling half-hearted about; or that only look OK if worn underneath something to hide a hole; or are shabby and worn; or were half of a set of which the other half has long gone and so is now a wardrobe “orphan”… I now have left only things that I really like and that make me feel great when I am wearing them.  
Sounds good.  At times like this I get all excited that I will end up with an Officially Co-ordinating and Cohesive Wardrobe.  A manageably small number of (well-made, but of course) garments: Co-ordinating, in that they all go together in a planned, but still interesting and visually pleasing colour scheme and Cohesive, in that they have a definite style that is recognisably “me” and that I am comfortable in.  
I know…  (in sing song) day-dreaming!  I did not…  I suspect like a lot of women, my wardrobe and tastes are utterly all over the shop.  I still have a little bit of this and a little bit of that.  Precious little of which is particularly co-ordinating OR cohesive.
Er, doesn’t sound so good…
 So, do I have a schizophrenic wardrobe?  And if so, could it be because I have a schizophrenic approach to my own wardrobe?   I want to be “individual”, but not ridiculous nor outdated.  I would like to look “with-it”, but the thought that I might look identical to everyone else is a stiflingly depressing one… yowza, no wonder my wardrobe is dichotomous!
Or I should look at this positively; it is diverse.  I have a flexible wardrobe.  I do have a smaller number of clothes, but still something for every occasion (mostly)  And (if you have been with me for a while you will have noticed this) my dressmaking policy has been changing over the past year or so… I am concentrating more and more on quality, not quantity.  When I make something it is going to be as well-made as I am capable; even it this means taking twice as long.  I don’t want to settle for imperfect.
So I still have a solid little collection of garments in neutral earthy shades and in a simple relaxed-fit style.  And, today being a windy and overcast day it felt right to throw together for myself this colonial “Out of Africa”-style outfit.  I do feel very “safe” in looks like this, and it also felt comfy and weather appropriate.

 However…. on my weekend trip to the fabric store to get a single reel of cotton I do confess a small length of shocking pink linen has now somehow joined my stash too… oops!  (she said innocently) I can’t imagine how that got in there!  So the summery brights continue to sneak in…
Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767 modified, of olive green linen, details here
Skirt; skirt “d” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like by Natsuno Hiraiwa, of silver grey crepe, details here, and see this skirt styled in 6 different ways here
Quadruple wrapped skinny belt; had for years
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes
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Blue bunches

Next up in my Japanese pattern book experiments…
When I saw this top in Pattern Magic 3, by Tomoko Nakamichi, I nicknamed it the “bunches” top.  Y’know because the other one on this same page was the “ponytail” top (not its real name, btw)  Well this one had two fabric thingies bursting out of each side of the self-fabric scrunchie thingy (it’s OK, I know what I’m talking about) so since we used to call this hairstyle “bunches” when I was in primary school then that is what I have dubbed this top.  In actuality, it has the same name as the ponytail top, (thread escaping loophole, thank you to Yoshimi, Janine and KD!) version A
But I have to admit the final result is actually not super “bunch”-y but is just sort of “knot”-y.  Even verging on “bow”-y.  This is because of my choice of fabric, a rather fine and light cotton knit and with not as much body as the green cotton jersey I used for the ponytail top.  So in my version here, that long casing for the bunches hasn’t held its shape at all but just collapses in on itself.  I thought that the lighter fabric would be better, but now I see that the thicker fabric did give a better structural result.  Don’t worry, I will still be wearing this top a whole bunch (hehe) this summer; its bright bright ultramarine blue shade is very vivid and therefore so very now.  Very colour-blocking…  See that, how I manage to slip trendy buzzwords like colour-blocking in to my posts like that, hmmm?  Oooh, I’m so with-it…  not!  But I do newly love this intense colour.  I confess I’m seriously craving shoes in this colour…
I think it can be worn successfully either way.  With the bunches at the back you get some interest at the back of the outfit, which is nice.  It’s noice it’s different it’s unusual… *  Often in an outfit there is nothing interesting to look at from the back view.  Something else I’ve discovered since I started taking pictures of my clothes…  
I think I like better it with the bunches at the back.  What do you think?

bunches; source

* an Aussie in-joke

Details:
Top; drafted from Pattern Magic 3, by Tomoko Nakamichi, made of lightweight cotton jersey knit
Skirt; my own modifications of Vogue 8363, burnt orange raw silk, details here, and this skirt styled in 6 different ways here
Sandals: la soffitadi Gilde, from Zomp shoes

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Wearing a triangle

First impressions can be deceiving.  And one’s first impressions of the “Wearing a Triangle” design from Pattern Magic 2 might just be that it is one of the least wearable designs in the book.  That was my own naive silly first impression anyway… I admit this photograph of the garment did not endear me to it one little bit; it was a disturbing reminder of the freaky monster shape the rather dishy (in those days, sigh) Alec Baldwin transformed himself into in Beetlejuice. 

(Alec Baldwin at right, in not-so-dishy mode)

I had a bit of a crush on Alec Baldwin way back then, and this apparition when it appeared in the movie was like a bucket of water over my girlish daydreams…

But the more I though about the Wearing a Triangle design, the more I started to think that it did have great potential to suit my style… if a few seams were left unstitched, and in a light flow-y fabric… hmmm, so I went and found some really light flow-y fabric.  Fortunately for me, Fabulous Fabrics had this sheer, ultra-flowy, navy blue muslin-y stuff on their super cheapo bargain table… I bought quite a lot.  Hangs head in shame at the utter failure to stash-bust there… “but it was so cheap”, she wails unconvincingly.  You might be seeing something else made out of this fabric, hehe…  But this particular fabric was just the ticket.  And I’m so happy with the result!  This project may well turn out to be a surprise favourite from the book, so far the odds are good…
I love the long, pointy handkerchief hems, and the vaguely hoodie shape hinted at with the top point of the triangle.  The drape-y, sharply A-line folds of lightweight billowy fabric are lovely and easy to wear, and I think quite flattering.  The very light and loose nature of this garment makes it a perfect summer cover-up.  I’m planning to wear this faux hoodie-of-sorts to the beach over shorts and over my wide-leg white linen pants on hot evenings.  The lightness and looseness will keep it cool, while the long sleeves will keep me from getting sunburnt.

Details:
Top; the “Wearing a Triangle” design from Pattern Magic 2, by Tomoko Nakamichi, made of navy blue muslin
Camisole (underneath); Country Road
Shorts; Burda 7723 modified to be flat-fronted and flared,  made of yellow embroidered cotton, details here
Thongs; Mountain Design

flat view
back view

Dressmaking details (for diehards who are interested in the sewing nitty gritty)
The design was quite time-and-resource consuming to draft.  This is because there are several stages…  cutting the triangles of fabric and making up a sort of half-stage fabric muslin, and then cutting armholes and using that much fabric again to draft the pattern with sleeves.  At this stage I was (uncharacteristically) not confident about the size so I went on to make a trial garment as well…  I used up practically half an old sheet just on the drafting of the pattern stage.  To my naturally very stingy frugal nature using up so much fabric, even “waste” fabric, for just one little top pattern was like torture.
The seams are sewed and overlocked to finish, the lower and neck edges overlocked and then folded in once and top-stitched.  The sleeve ends were finished with a “lettuce-leaf” rolled hem on my overlocker, I really like this slightly romantic finish to a casual long sleeve.
The design calls for the lower hem to be stitched closed partway along each end of the bottom edge of the triangle; I left these parts unstitched, which to my eyes improves the design immensely.  Ya, I know it doesn’t look so much like a structural “triangle” now, but I’m very OK with that.  And; final analysis, using up that half an old sheet on toile-ing was totally worth it!
side view

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