New dress, with interesting pockets.
While browsing Pinterest, as you do, I came across a line drawing of a very elegant dress on and I immediately knew I wanted to have a go at drafting it for myself. It is the pocket drape dress designed by Anita, of studio faro. Subsequently I discovered her absolutely fantastic blog well-suited, where she very generously shares her considerable expertise in understanding how designs actually work. If you’re interested in exploring and understanding pattern making then Anita’s blog is totally brilliant; sure to inspire and motivate.
I’d previously measured and made a custom-fit darted sheath dress sloper for myself during my early explorations of Pattern Magic and I used this to draft my pattern, following Anita’s guidelines pretty closely. I made a first test version using an old sheet. It worked, but well, ahem. I have to admit I looked less than chic in that thing. I think my drape was a bit of an epic fail.
However I decided I really did love the pocket, so I went with having the pocket on both sides. Also I fiddled about with the crossover neckline, put in a few random folds and made it asymmetrical.
The deep side pockets have flap openings that are an extension of the bodice side panels. They are fully functional pockets, but their positioning with the opening sitting up high at the waist makes them not really conducive to shoving your hands in. So, not as practical as they are decorative. Well, I could put a few small things in there that I don’t need to get out in a hurry. The pockets are perfectly useable pockets, but just for things, and not hands. But still… a very cool design, and I reckon they look really interesting 🙂
The pockets are kinda hard to explain… they are inset into the side of the dress and have an extra piece which is part of but also sitting over the pocket, that extends into a flap hanging loose and free past the bottom of the pocket.
Working out how to construct the pockets was quite an enjoyable puzzle, and I really enjoyed the process of nutting out a way to put it together neatly! I don’t know if my way is the way Anita intended for it to be made, but it worked out OK for me. I think 🙂
I’ve written my instructions at the end of this post, mostly for myself, if I ever want to make these pockets up again. Please be warned that they will probably not make sense to anyone not making up the pockets…
In the muslining stage I found that the pocket sagged down on the inside, pulling down on the pocket flap; and so decided it would be better to add a lining to the front and back side panels above the pocket, and to “tether” the top edge of the pocket to the side panel lining, by sewing the panel lining lower SA to the upper SA of the pocket bags. Having a lining added some much needed hidden support and keeps it all holding up and together, nice and stable.
Subsequently I decided to go the whole hog and properly line the whole dress in the same creamy polyacetate. I used the same pattern for the lining pieces.
The fabric is a rich cream, silk dupion, slightly slubby yet still with a subtly glossy sheen, and a decadently crinkly texture. I bought it at Fabulous Fabrics forever ago and it’s been living quietly in my stash, patiently awaiting its turn. It had gone slightly yellow but I gave it a good wash and it came up lovely and fresh, seemingly as good as new.
So I like my dress. Well, it’s OK. It was not easy, ahem! and I’ve decided my self-drafting skills are kinda rubbish. And even though I thought my muslin looked dreadful I have a sinking suspicion that maybe it was more interesting that way. I think maybe I could’ve stuck with the drape, hmmm. *sigh*
But I do love how the pockets look and I very much love that I have a nice fresh off-white dress to pop on for summer. So I will wear it very happily.
And now all I want to do is just leap onto some commercial pattern, already drafted up for me, ready to go, easy peasy, no thought required, neat and tidy like. Yeah.
The Pocket: feel free to skip this bit if you want.
So, you have the pocket detail, the pocket bag, the pocket bag lining and the pocket flap facing. Also the back side panel, front side panel and their lining pieces, which have the pocket flap facing allowance removed …
Sew pocket detail and pocket bag R sides tog at top edge, turn, understitch.
Sew pocket bag lining to pocket bag, R sides tog at bottom edge.
Sew pocket flap facing to pocket bag lining R sides tog, press pocket flap facing up.
Sew back side panel and front side panel R sides tog at side seam, press open, repeat for panel lining pieces.
Sew lower edge of joined panels to pocket flap facing R sides tog, trim, clip side panel pieces into corners, turn pocket flap out, press.
Align and layer 3 pocket pieces together and baste tog at sides, clip into the SA of pocket detail at junction with pocket bag lower edge.
For the side panel lining; and this is where it gets a little more complicated…
the dress pieces need to be assembled except for the shoulder seams and keeping the lower part of the pocket detail free, and the dress lining assembled likewise, leaving out the pocket lining which is attached to the dress already, meaning there is a “hole” in the dress lining where the pocket lining should be.
Sew the dress to its lining pieces together at the underarm and neckline seams, understitch the lining as far as possible, turn; then the side panel lining pieces can be sewn to the upper pocket bag seam allowances on the inside, W side to R side. Clip into the corners, then the SA around the three remaining sides of the dress lining “hole” can then be stitched to the pocket lining seam allowances inside, R side to W side, between the dress and its lining.
The lower pocket detail edges are turned under and invisibly hemmed by hand.
All that might seem a bit convoluted, but trust me, if you are putting together the pocket it does work!
that is a very clever design, and kudos to you for working out the draft. I think a crisp white summer dress is jus the best thing to wear, always feels so put together. Looks great. And yes, agree with you, nice to switch back to a nice easy peasy commercial pattern 🙂
Quite stunning and worth the effort!
I love this dress! The asymmetrical bodice and the unusual pockets make it extra appealing. I have to admit, though, that the pocket/side panel lining construction details, while really interesting, kind of make my brain hurt.
I admire all your sewing experiments! I especially love the bodice on this. And thanks for the link to well-suited. Most of it is above my head, but I did see one dress that I am thinking about trying.
Colour, sheen and shape all beautiful – it would make a fantastic dress for a formal event.
My goodness, this is a delight. It's just the epitome of quirky elegance that looks wonderful on you. I'm sure you'll enjoy wearing it! Rachel ☺
That is a stunning dress and really suits you.
I was lucky enough to do a skirt drafting / fitting class with Anita. She is brilliant. It was amazing how she made changes to each person's muslin to get a perfect fit for all shapes and sizes. If anyone gets the chance to do a course with her I highly recommend you go for it.
Your dress really does look lovely on you. The fabric is divine and you look very elegant in it.
What a cool dress Carolyn. The pockets are such a statement but do not overwhelm. Lovely!
That's a brilliant work! I love the pocket and the whole dress is just beautiful 🙂
Wonderful dress Carolyn! I love the way you worked the idea to suit your own desired outcome. 🙂 Thanks so much for linking my blog. Much appreciated.
Amazing dress and your drafting skills look pretty damn good from this side!
Well as usual I'm impressed. This dress is exquisite – elegant and glamorous.
This is such a unique looking dress! I love the fabric. It is so pretty. I really like the look of the pockets too!
Lovely dress!
I found the well-suited website a couple of months ago and I love it. You're even luckier: Being in the same part of the world as Studio Faro, you could actually consider taking one of the courses.
And about the pockets: If you ever considered making another version of this dress with more usuable pockets, I would suggest moving the tops of the pockets and the flaps down by about 8 cm (you'd have to see the proportions to find out whether or not to adjust the rest of them). If you have proper waist shaping above them, you will still have pockets which work with your figure, just in a more convenient position.
Oh, and a question: How do you wash dupion silk? I thought this was the stuff that couldn't be washed because it gets all warped and funny if it gets in contact with water. It's one reason why I've never used the stuff despite loving the look of it. But yours look great…
thanks Lauriana! Actually Sydney is 4000km away from me here in Perth so taking a course there would be about as sensible for me as it would be for you!
I just toss silk dupion in the machine on a cold gentle cycle, like I do all my silks and have never found it to warp. I don't know for sure but maybe it could be a too hot wash that causes a de-naturing problem like that? I've found that it does lose a little gloss and get a bit more textured in appearance as it gets old and after many many washes, but I actually really like that old "washed" appearance.
Your dress is lovely! The pockets are a nice detail.
Absolutely stunning. I love everything about this dress, the design, the fabric and the fit. Beautiful work as always.
Such a wonderful dress! The pockets are a wonderful design feature.
Lovely as always and interesting! Been wondering, what has happened with the Alabama Chenin dress?
thank you MAM! I received lots of very helpful suggestions as to what to do with the AC dress and am planning some alterations. It might take me a while though 🙂
Gosh that hurt my head to even read, lead alone try and construct those pockets! haha good work:)
Very impressive workmanship (as always!). It's beautiful.
Those pockets may not be the most functional but they are the most fierce! I love them hard!
Lovely dress with flappy bits on! I, too, use my own blog to make notes for myself, particularly favourite recipes. Well done drafting that dress!
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Stunning as ever. Anita is my drafting teacher..she is a national treasure!
I've been mooning over that design for a good year or so, so far. I was more interested in the drape than the pockets though! Having seen your instagram of the overall design, I'm thinking yeah, pockets!
It's great to see the sketches come alive 🙂
How long does the silk dupion last? I've tried making things then washing them as you said to another commenter but it never seems to last very long, sadly.
I'm sorry for not replying sooner, tropical threads! Yes, I've found silk dupion to be not the most robust of fabrics either. It doesn't last as long as linen, or even cotton. My last silk dupion skirt lasted about a year before it ripped, but it did get a lot of good solid wear during the year.
Hi Carolyn, Thought I'd let you know that I am sharing your post on my Facebook page this evening. Thanks again for featuring my blog and sharing. 🙂
so lovely!!!